erans

Three sections of the LEdone, one more to go...

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Eran,
Its looking very nice, you're almost done with the wing build.
I use a strip of masking tape to define the edge of the leading edge.
JG

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Erans,

Glad you like the superfil...its a great product to have around...so easy to work with.

I hope to post aomething in the next day or two as I've finished up with the radiators, radiator flaps, and main flaps now as well as all 10 of the circular access panels on the under side of the wing

Casey

fokke

Great resolt Erans ! Tell me what is the weight of half of the wing ?

erans

Last one done. The good thing about this task was that I could do it 10-15 minutes at a time.

Jose - Thank you for the tip. It does make it easier to find the "edge". Iwish you told me that earlier, it would have saved me much of the sanding.

Casey - Ican't wait to see these radiators. Let me know if you want to work on another pair

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Eran,
before you pull the tape out, sand lightly the leading edges down to the tape. It'll make easy to get that straight edge.
JG

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

"Casey - I can't wait to see these radiators. Let me know if you want to work on another pair"
[]
ah.... no thanks

LOL

Casey[:@]

erans

The planed work Ihad for last weekend (sanding the LE) was interrupted by someone braking into my car.
I ended up spending the weekend dealing with car repairs.

So today, Ifinally got the opportunity to sand both LE.
I got the "rough" part done where I had cloth glued to the Fliteskin.
Jose's masking tape method worked a treat, I wish I knew it before I started.

Photos will follow when the site upload fix itself.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

[quote]ORIGINAL: erans

The planed work I had for last weekend (sanding the LE) was interrupted by someone braking into my car.
I ended up spending the weekend dealing with car repairs.

So today, I finally got the opportunity to sand both LE.
I got the ''rough'' part done where I had cloth glued to the Fliteskin.
Jose's masking tape method worked a treat, I wish I knew it before I started.

Photos will follow when the site upload fix itself.

[/quote)

Erans,

sorry about the car. The tape method I learnt along the way. I'm glad it worked, now you can use it in all your builds.....
[8D]
JG

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

bummer about the car erans...hope the damage wasnt too bad.

RCU has been rather quirky of late.

Casey

erans

The idiot that broke into my car tried first to open the door by sticking screw-driver in the panel on the side of both passenger side and driver side.
When he failed, in frustration he scarred the door with the screw driver, then broke the passenger side window.

So not only that Ihad to fix a window, but the car spent the week with the panel-beaters to fix the screw driver marks.

New parts for the panels are not available in Western Australia, so they wait on parts from the East Coast and Singapore...
You can imagine that with more than 10 flights a day from the each capital city in the East Coast to Perth and 2 flights a day from Singapore that the parts will be here next day... But no prediction as yet for the delivery date... (The parts are small and can be put in large envelope)

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

[:@]

erans

Istarted working on the wing radiator.
The photos from Jose's build in RCSB are my guide as it is more representative to the flap I will have then Casey's highly modified flap.

Isanded both fibreglass parts and cut access in the wing for the control link.
Ithen started fabricating the flap from Fliteskin and balsa.

Iam a bit frustrated that I can not upload pictures to the site since last Sunday.
The flap fabrication photos will have to wait with the LE fibreglass photos.

erans

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Finally, the photos of the LEsanded

erans

And photos of the radiator flap.
What Idid was to use a piece of Fliteskin attached with masking tape to the radiator and cut to size to determine the shape of the "ribs", which Idrew on another piece of Fliteskin.
Then Icut the template ribs and made the two balsa ribs shown in the photo.

I am actually more advanced then what shown on these photos, but forgot to download the photos from the camera in my frustration with the site. Hopefullthe uploadwill still work tonight.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

exactly how I did mine! Well done. Remember, you might feel the need to double up the skins on the lower radiator flap. I felt it was abit too flimsy with just one sheet.

Casey

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Ernas, Casey, if you glue a couple of ribs, it stays pretty rigid, this is what I did with my flaps.
Also run a bid of Aeropoxy or similar epoxy, don't just rely on Cyano for the ribs.
JG

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I did use two pieces of 1/8th inch square hardwood for ribs, but it still flexed abit, so I laid another over the first with thin CA and now they hold shape, with no flex at all

Casey

erans

The latest progress photos.
I used plywood across the flap to keep it stiff. It works well.
I glued the ribs with CA, but the plywood brace is glued with Gorilla glue on all joints (to the Fliteskin and to the ribs). The playwood for the control horn is glued with Epoxy.
It feels quite strong.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

I used lite ply on my flaps
jG

erans

Casey - For whatever reason it didn't cross my mind to try two lairs of Fliteskin. It sounds like the simplest solution.
Jose - Thank you for the comments and photos, I used these same photos from your RCBS build as a rough guide.

I am quite pleased with the result so far. I am considering a second plywood brace further towards the TE of the radiator flap.
As to hinges, I am thinking of using couple of Robart hinges inserted into blocks of balsa. I am not too fuss about it not looking "scale", I just want it operational. My other thought was to use strips of CA hinges. Not too sure about this option.

I cut a hole under the radiator to try and attached the control horn clevis from there. I am not very optimistic that I will be able to do it, the angle I will need to work frommay make it too hard.
I may need to create "access hole" similar to the one Jose made in front of the radiator above the attachment location.
If I am forced to do so, I may glue the radiator to the wing as I will not need it to be removable. Any reason why I should not glue the radiator to the wing?

As a side note, every time I make a part using the Fliteskin I am amazed how lite it is. Amazing stuff.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

erans,

I glued mine, oped the flaps, then fiddled with it till I got the clevis on the rod...a pain, yes, but it worked.

Casey

erans

A photo showing the access to the control rod connection deep in the wing from my cut under the radiator.
The other photo show the beefed up the LEof the radiator flap to support the hinge.

I am thinking of using "normal" hinges, but cannot think of a way to cut neat thin slot in the radiator fibreglas so close to the edge.
Any suggestions other then Dremel cutting wheel?

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Erans,
I used a piano hinge on my radiator flap, but any flat hinge (Dubro) would work. I installed the hinge before adding the ribs and L.E. but you can retrofit them. (Next time it wil be easier) cut a slot with your hobby knife the width of the hinge, you could also use the hinge points from Robarts but it'll be more diffical to line up the surfaces.
The openings for the access should be oval or round just like in the full size aircraft, so you round them up with your dremel sandind disk. Corners are weak spots.
JG

erans

Thank you Jose, I decided on the flat hinge.
Icut the slots with the Dremel and it came out OK.
I then glued balsa blocks at the back. In hindsight, Ishould have glued them before cutting the slots (the Epoxy filled them).