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  1. #101
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Hello Eran,

    Try not to cut into the ribs too much and also do not trim the stringer that runs through the wheel well as it will make the skin too flimsy.
    If you want the frames to sit a little deeper, just trim down the mouting beams a 1/8 inch or less. Make sure they are hardwood not pine.
    The wheels need to be "toed" with the retratcs extended in order to fit in the well when retractet.
    JG
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  2. #102
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Eran,

    I'll post a couple of pics as soon as I get home of my rails. Basically I inset the retract into the rails the depth of the mounting plates(both frount and rear rails)


    Casey
    Fliteskin, Sierra, Nelson Hobby, MICKO aircraft, Getstencils, Holman Plans, VicRC, Castle Creations, Addicted to Luft, BestPilots.com

  3. #103
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Erans,

    Here ya go, I hope this helps you abit. As you can see, I cut out an area in the mount for the depth of the mounting rails on the gear. This lowered everything into the wing, and lined up the gear doors with the lower skin.

    Casey
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    Fliteskin, Sierra, Nelson Hobby, MICKO aircraft, Getstencils, Holman Plans, VicRC, Castle Creations, Addicted to Luft, BestPilots.com

  4. #104

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Hi Jose, you have sharp eyes noticing the pine wood mounts. The reason being that I cannot get hardwood at the shops here at the moment (they say mid next week, but experience tells me I may have to wait much longer then that). I only used the pine to get going, it will not be installed in the wing. As to the rib, I have removed it completely all the way to the skin to allow the wheel to sit as low as possible. I will construct two semi-ribs both sides of the wheel to give some strength to the Fliteskin. I am not sure I want to introduce tow-in. I was starting to look at constructing a blister and maybe convert the aeroplane to G model by also adding the bulge in the nose next to the cockpit.

    Casey, your photos are great and have confirmed my own setup. The quick reply was highly appreciated and saved me huge amount of time experimenting. As you can see in the photos, I still have the wheel protruding a bit and I do not think that lowering the mounting of the leg will help. When adding the landing gear door I think I will not be able to get it flush with the wing skin. I will get it all bolted once I have the hardwood and see...

    I didn't have much time on the Me-109 today, as my friend and my engines guru Tom called me that he has some time to have another look at my Saito FG-20 in the Waco that we fail to tune. Couple of hours later and with ringing ears from listening to this engine we think we got it good enough for the test flight. What was good about this visit is that Tom's shed is better equipped for metal work and he shortened the axle of the Me-109 and we set it to the absolute minimum clearance that will allow the wheel to spin freely, so it is now sitting in the wing as tight as possible.

    Tomorrow I plan to go flying after a month of bad weather and leaches taking over our airfield for events, so no progress is expected.
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  5. #105
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Hi Eran,

    you really don't need a blister to hide the wheel. The fit is super tight but it can be done. The retratcs do not come with the toes set so you have to adjust to neutral from the trunnion block.
    JG
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  6. #106

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Well, all excited to get flying again Igot to the airfield to find unscheduled maintenance going on (and obviously without notification to the members about it from our inept committee). So, all the excitement, no cigar...

    Then it was back to the Me-109, and the construction of semi-ribs to give the Fliteskin something to hold on to after removing rib W4 from where the wheel goes into the wing. This is where heaving a scroll saw makes life very easy.
    Imade couple of semi-ribs (W3 1/2 and W4 1/2 ) and the fit was very good. Isanded a bit the Fliteskin for better glue grip and epoxy them in place.

    Ithen had a look at Jose suggestion to toe in the landing gear. There is no question it fits much better this way. Iwill give it a try and see how it is when the aeroplane stands on it's wheels. Ican always change it and get the blisters done, but obviously Iprefer not to have to to do this extra work (being the lazy person that I am).

    Last, I have glued a "web" to the TEwhere the aileron will go and next will be a balsa block for the hinges.

    This sums it up for today.
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  7. #107

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Few days away from the Me-109 and I almost started to develop withdrawal syndrome. Finally I had a chance to fly, so went on Friday to "get the thumbs going" with my Great Planes 40cc Su-31, and then on Sunday, Ifinally managed to perform the maiden flight on the Great Planes WACO. You can see my comments on it here (scroll down)
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...40/key_/tm.htm

    Since Iam waiting for the hardwood for the retracts mounting rails and cannot make any progress until I have it with the retracts, Istarted to look into the installation of the aileron and the flaps in the little time I had today. I glued the balsa blocks for the aileron hinges and also glued some pine (from my mock-up retracts rails) to the servo tray to give the servo screws something to hold into. Ifound out that I have to glue the servo tray with the servo attached as Iwill not be able to insert the servo into it if it is glued in place as there is not enough clearance from rib W7. The last photo show that I have started to replicate the progress on the left wing, starting with web to the TE at the aileron area.

    Edit:
    Oops, got the second photo twice, Ihave no idea how to remove it...

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  8. #108

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    I forgot to mention above that Itook with me half a Me-109 wing to the airfield on Sunday to show to the other club members. It was a hit with them, as no one ever saw Fliteskin application before. They all were very impressed with the quality of surface finish and how light it is, not to mention when I told them how quick it was to apply.

  9. #109
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Kwel[8D]
    JG
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  10. #110

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    A bit more time today, so I continued with the Ailerons servos. First, when Iscrewed them into the mount I figured out that they are pointing to the wrong direction (looking at sheet 2 "slat construction drawing"). I unmounted the servos and made a relief cut for the servo wires on the other side.
    You may also notice that I cut the mount at the main spar side (TE side). This is to allow me to put it in place at this stage of construction that the web is already glued in place... It was probably designed to be glued in place at an earlier stage. Once bolted to the mount, Iwanted to make sure that the servos are centred, so it was time to set up the radio system for the first time, creating the ME-109 in my TX memory. It feels good to see it there. First question to Jose - Is it correct that the servo arm required is a short 10mm from servo centre (see photo)? This is what is shown on sheet 2 of the plan.
    Then, while Iam waiting for reply on this (I will not be able to change anything with the servo once glued in place), Ihad a look into the fibreglass wing tips. Some sanding was required to the the attachment line whichg was easy enough to do. When Iinserted W11 (The tip spar) I had quite a large gap on both sides which Iwas trying to show in the picture through the hole in rib W10B. Second question Jose - Is it suppose to be like that? Should I press the fibreglass onto W11 (which will end up in not uniform taper to the rib)? Do Iuse large amount of Gorilla glue and let the expansion to "get to the fibreglass"? or do Ibuild up W11 with some balse to conform to the tip curvature?

    Last, Iwent to the hobby shop that promised me to have the hardwood today, and no, they don't have it...
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  11. #111
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Hello Eran,

    the servo arm is not required to be 10mm, you can set it up to your own taste. Even though they are removable, you don't need to use standard size servos, you can go with the HS-225MG they are good for ailerons and they are easier to pull out if you need to. Also, mount the servo arm 15/20 degrees off centre to allow for differential throw.
    The tip spar, is not really required, it was designed for built up wing tips, before I decided to make the molded wing tips.
    You can attach the wing tips to the wing with gorilla glue or Goop, the both pretty good and will fill in. Just tape the tips with masking tape until the glue sets.
    I hope this helps

    JG

    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  12. #112

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Thank you Jose for the clarifications. May Iask, in regards to the 15/20 degrees off centre, is it with the servo arm pointing to the TEor LE? Iassume this position is when TX stick is centred?
    Iam also looking into the suggested servo and searching for the digital equivalent. I may change it as suggested.

    Well, Iwas not just wasting time today, Ikept on with modifying the left wing with the addition of hinge blocks and cutting out the wheel area and gluing the self fabricated false ribs.
    Ithen decided to get on with applying fibreglass to the Flaps LE. Lucky my wife is not at home as the house stink of resin.
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  13. #113
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Eran,

    towards the TE

    JG
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  14. #114

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Thank you for the clarification Jose.

    I am a bit slow going at the moment as other things took priority. All I managed to do since my last post was to sand and put second coat of resin on the flaps LE, and fibreglass the LEof the ailerons.
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  15. #115

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    After great vacation with my family for the last 8 days, and some catch up on some work at home, it is time to get back to the build.
    Today I had the first opportunity to look closely at the fibreglass work Idid before Iwent away. It was not a pretty sight. I didn't do a very good job... So, Ispent an hour and a half sanding the two flaps and two ailerons LE and generating thick fibreglass and resin dust (the photo show some of the dust that didn't make it to the bin ).
    Then I applied the second coat of resin to the ailerons LE. I think Idid a better job this time.

    Next Iglued rib 10B and the spar extension into the fibreglass wing-tip. Just as side note, the spar is not 90 degree to the rib, so I have first glued them both while aligning them to the wing tip to generate the correct angle. Iused gorilla glue and have applied thick coat on the spar (the bit that go inside the wing-tip). Iused some magazines as weights to make sure that rib 10Bconforms properly and to avoid the glue lifting the fibreglass. The thick application on the spar seems to do the trick and it supports the fibreglass from inside (which was not firm before due to the gap). Tomorrow I will inject glue in to the areas which were not properly glued inside and it will be ready to attach to the wing.
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  16. #116

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Oops, I clicked quote instead of edit... Cannot find a delete option...

  17. #117

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    A short day today, so I started with adding Gorilla glue into the wing-tip spar. Iused a stick with wet cloth to apply moisture to the area to be glued and then Iused a syringe with fuel tube to apply the glue inside. The result is good solid adhesion where the Gorilla glue fill the gap.

    Next Iapplied fibreglass to the sides of the ailerons and flaps... Maybe Iwill find some more time this evening to do the other side.

    If anyone was wondering why I am jumping around in my build from landing gear to ailerons servos to wing-tips, the reason is that I am waiting on parts. I cannot test my landing gear (which I would like to do outside of the wing) because the pump Ibought was missing the fill connector (Robart, just disgraceful). As non was available in Perth, Ihad to order it on the net and it is yet to arrive from the USA...
    Same with the mini servos as per Jose's suggestion for the ailerons. I checked with all the Perth shops and few other shops in Australia from which I usually source my Hitec servos, but none had the HS-5245MG in stock. Ihad to order it from the USA...
    Then there is the problem of sourcing spruce for the landing gear mount... The good news is that Ifinally sourced it and will make some progress on this shortly...

    My target is to have the wings fully completed by the end January, but with the silly season in the way it is probably too ambitious target.
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  18. #118
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Looks like everything is moving along nicely, you'll have the wing finished in no time.

  19. #119
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Good job on the flaps Eran. For the Landing gear try something harder than spruce.

    JG
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  20. #120

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Hi Jose

    What are you suggesting as replacement to spruce?

    Eran

  21. #121
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    maple?
    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  22. #122

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Thank you Jose, unfortunately Maple is not common here, so I went to seek advice from my neighbour who is into his woodworking hobby. He has suggested to cut for me some Tasmanian Oak which is probably as close to Maple as Ican easily get here. The other option was Jarrah, but this will come with some weight penalty as it is substantially heavier then the Oak.

    Iactually had some time yesterday evening to fibreglass the other side of the ailerons and flaps, so today Istarted to apply the second coat of resin to it. One more coat to the other side and the parts will be fully fibre-glassed.

    With most of my build time today unexpectedly consumed on club issues, I decided to glue the wing-tips in place and use the drying time for the other activities. The wing and the tip were reasonably easy to align and I think that the end result will look good.

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  23. #123

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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Today started with the last coat of resin on the flaps and ailerons, it will be ready for sanding tomorrow, when Ialso intend to put some potty over the pin holes and the imperfections of my poor craftsmanship...

    Then, it was down to business with the landing gear mounting beams. I expected it to be reasonably quick process, but like everything else I do, I manage to mess it up... My plan is to follow the system used by Casey of six 10-32 Nylon bolts per retract leg (I prefer the bolts to sheer in harsh landing then the mounts).
    After spending fair amount of time ensuring that the pivot of the retract and the angle is as correct as possible, I marked everything up and drilled four 1/4" holes for the blind nuts. As Ido not have functional drill press, Iwill drill the retracts for the additional holes at later stage (and the mounts). Ithen found out that the Great Planes blind nuts are huge and protrude from the mounts and interfere with the retract. Lucky, Idid found a stash of Chinese branded 10-32 blind nuts which had much smaller diameter. When I gently pressed the second nut into the mount, the mount cracked and was unusable...
    So, I had to cut new mount from the leftover wood that my neighbour kindly provided me with when we cut the original batch and repeat the process... This time, Ibent the pins that go into the wood and just glued it in place. With 6 bolts Ido not expect it to open.

    After this my attention span was too short to do anything else on the aeroplane today, so the other side will wait for tomorrow...
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  24. #124
    JGrc's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    Eran
    you are working too hard! I use small wood screws to hold the gear plates to the wood beams, no need to use blind nuts that became a pain when they come loose and also weaken the beam as they need a bigger hole.

    The KISS concept works swell [8D]

    JG
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    Fliteskin is tougher than you think!

  25. #125
    glazier808's Avatar
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    RE: Another Fliteskin ME 109 build thread

    I agree Jose,

    I drilled and tapped the hardwood, and I will probably go with only 2 bolts on the rear flange of each retract...

    Its looking good eran, feel free to pm me if you have any questions...I should be back on my build shortly...the weather has kept me from finishing up some work on our cabin, but I'm close to being done!

    Casey
    Fliteskin, Sierra, Nelson Hobby, MICKO aircraft, Getstencils, Holman Plans, VicRC, Castle Creations, Addicted to Luft, BestPilots.com


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