Bates 106" B-26 Marauder build
08-22-2012, 06:13 AM
#351
RE: Bates 106
Jpate
Video of 'maiden':
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WlJB...ature=youtu.be
I made five bad decisions: (making any one of these correctly, would have prevented the damage)
1. I always 'walk' the field to find any bad spots and I failed to do it this time and I would have known about the 18" high dirt berm.
2. I had another 100 yards of runway and I should have started at the very end of the runway.
3. On take off, when it passed me, I was thinking it didn't have flight speed so I should have aborted.
4. I continually gave UP elevator and it finally jumped off the ground and I decided to land it but should have reduced the throttle instead of giving down elevator.
5. I could have given left rudder to miss the end of the runway.
Carl said it had flying speed and I have to agree with him. In the 'back of my mind', I doubted if the engines were big enough. The G-38's would fly it but I'm going to put two DLE-55 rear exhaust engines on her. The mount to prop distance difference between the two engines is only an 1/8" so the 55's will easily mount without any major mods. I won't always have that much runway to work with and the larger engines will help keep me out of trouble. I've got G-62's in my P-61 and I never had any doubt that there was enough power so it gave me more confidence in my maiden.
I'm building a new C-45 so the G-38's will go in that.
I wasn't alone as two other planes hit those berms.
One tore off the front nose and the other was luckier: just the mains got broken off without damaging the plane. Once by the berm, there was just clover so the plane with the broken off mains just settled onto the ground as it was still at flying speed when the gear hit the berm.
Obviously, the field is too short!
Video of 'maiden':
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WlJB...ature=youtu.be
I made five bad decisions: (making any one of these correctly, would have prevented the damage)
1. I always 'walk' the field to find any bad spots and I failed to do it this time and I would have known about the 18" high dirt berm.
2. I had another 100 yards of runway and I should have started at the very end of the runway.
3. On take off, when it passed me, I was thinking it didn't have flight speed so I should have aborted.
4. I continually gave UP elevator and it finally jumped off the ground and I decided to land it but should have reduced the throttle instead of giving down elevator.
5. I could have given left rudder to miss the end of the runway.
Carl said it had flying speed and I have to agree with him. In the 'back of my mind', I doubted if the engines were big enough. The G-38's would fly it but I'm going to put two DLE-55 rear exhaust engines on her. The mount to prop distance difference between the two engines is only an 1/8" so the 55's will easily mount without any major mods. I won't always have that much runway to work with and the larger engines will help keep me out of trouble. I've got G-62's in my P-61 and I never had any doubt that there was enough power so it gave me more confidence in my maiden.
I'm building a new C-45 so the G-38's will go in that.
I wasn't alone as two other planes hit those berms.
One tore off the front nose and the other was luckier: just the mains got broken off without damaging the plane. Once by the berm, there was just clover so the plane with the broken off mains just settled onto the ground as it was still at flying speed when the gear hit the berm.
Obviously, the field is too short!
08-22-2012, 06:25 AM
#352
RE: Bates 106
re-construction:
Fuse:
I made a copy of former F-9 and used 1/8" aircraft ply to sister it to the existing former (the original former is broken into several pieces so it needs the new former).
The back wing blocks are attached to this former so I want it strong.
I cut the former a 1/4" narrower along the top since it's impossible to slide the former into the stringers.
The wing mounts were dry fitted to get the correct alignment with the slots in the new former while I attached the new former with epoxy and clamps. The wing mounts were then removed so I could better secure the new former to the original former. The hole in the top center of the former that was going to be used for wires came in handy to put clamps through to hold the two formers together.
Fuse:
I made a copy of former F-9 and used 1/8" aircraft ply to sister it to the existing former (the original former is broken into several pieces so it needs the new former).
The back wing blocks are attached to this former so I want it strong.
I cut the former a 1/4" narrower along the top since it's impossible to slide the former into the stringers.
The wing mounts were dry fitted to get the correct alignment with the slots in the new former while I attached the new former with epoxy and clamps. The wing mounts were then removed so I could better secure the new former to the original former. The hole in the top center of the former that was going to be used for wires came in handy to put clamps through to hold the two formers together.
08-22-2012, 08:27 AM
#353
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RE: Bates 106
Thanks for the info and video of your maiden Sam. It looks like you have the repairs under control, and nothing you can't make better and stronger. I agree the new engines will provide you an advantage on take off and in case of a go around. You are certainly invited to the Montgomery event in September if you can make it.
Jerry
Jerry
08-22-2012, 04:00 PM
#355
RE: Bates 106
Re-construction (cont)
Fuse:
Lots of epoxy was applied to the rear wing mounts and attached to the fuse.
Easysand was applied and stick sanded to fill in the cracks on both sides of the fuse.
Center wing:
I cut out some square sections of the bottom sheeting where the bolts elongated the holes.
After removing the sheeting, I was surprised that I didn't have any balsa blocks for the bolt holes.
Two balsa blocks were shaped and epoxied into place over the 1/4" thick ply mounts.
Fuse:
Lots of epoxy was applied to the rear wing mounts and attached to the fuse.
Easysand was applied and stick sanded to fill in the cracks on both sides of the fuse.
Center wing:
I cut out some square sections of the bottom sheeting where the bolts elongated the holes.
After removing the sheeting, I was surprised that I didn't have any balsa blocks for the bolt holes.
Two balsa blocks were shaped and epoxied into place over the 1/4" thick ply mounts.
08-23-2012, 11:14 AM
#356
RE: Bates 106
Re-construction (cont)
Fuse:
Aluminum tape:
After sanding the easysand, I saw no need to prime the area resulting in a lot of masking.
Before/after pictures of the tape application.
A gouge was on the front side of the fuse: some easysand and a small piece of aluminum tape made it look like a prototype field repair.
Initially, it takes more time to apply the aluminum tape versus painting but repairs are a whole lot easier.
Except for a new nose canopy, the fuse is done.
Fuse:
Aluminum tape:
After sanding the easysand, I saw no need to prime the area resulting in a lot of masking.
Before/after pictures of the tape application.
A gouge was on the front side of the fuse: some easysand and a small piece of aluminum tape made it look like a prototype field repair.
Initially, it takes more time to apply the aluminum tape versus painting but repairs are a whole lot easier.
Except for a new nose canopy, the fuse is done.
08-23-2012, 05:03 PM
#360
RE: Bates 106
Re-construction (cont)
A few things done for tonight.
Fuse:
The center wing was secured to the fuse with the four socket head bolts.
The top fuse hatch had two edges that were broken that needed some epoxy.
Outer wing:
I've saved the hardest for last.
The wing bar is bent up (wing is perfectly flat on the top).
I'm thinking that I'll have to cut open the bottom sheeting and replace the aluminum bar.
The bar system doesn't seem as strong as the tube system and this will probably be the last time I ever use a bar system.
A few things done for tonight.
Fuse:
The center wing was secured to the fuse with the four socket head bolts.
The top fuse hatch had two edges that were broken that needed some epoxy.
Outer wing:
I've saved the hardest for last.
The wing bar is bent up (wing is perfectly flat on the top).
I'm thinking that I'll have to cut open the bottom sheeting and replace the aluminum bar.
The bar system doesn't seem as strong as the tube system and this will probably be the last time I ever use a bar system.
08-24-2012, 04:25 AM
#363
RE: Bates 106
This is what I like about this hobby, always something to do, even if you dont crash! My SIG 4*120 needs the covering fixed, so I have something to do when I can't fly. 
08-24-2012, 06:55 AM
#364
RE: Bates 106
Thanks, Peter.
=========
That was too easy!
I got the plans out and referenced my pictures to see where I would have to cut into the bottom of the wing to replace the aluminum bar.
After removing the flap/landing light hatches and wire harness, I'm figuring: why not try bending the bar back in place using the vise, since the bend is not that large.
Three adjustments in the vise and 'all was right in the world'.
With screws at the top and bottom to secure the bar and wing, there should be no flexing.
I like it when the apparent hardest job turns out to be the easiest!
Now, all I need are the gear back from robart, canopies/cowls from Jerry and the new DLE-55's!
=========
That was too easy!
I got the plans out and referenced my pictures to see where I would have to cut into the bottom of the wing to replace the aluminum bar.
After removing the flap/landing light hatches and wire harness, I'm figuring: why not try bending the bar back in place using the vise, since the bend is not that large.
Three adjustments in the vise and 'all was right in the world'.
With screws at the top and bottom to secure the bar and wing, there should be no flexing.
I like it when the apparent hardest job turns out to be the easiest!
Now, all I need are the gear back from robart, canopies/cowls from Jerry and the new DLE-55's!
09-18-2012, 11:12 AM
#368
RE: Bates 106
Some parts came in:
The nose canopy arrived (bought a whole set, for back up).
The DLE-55 rear exhaust engines also arrived. Comes with muffler, electronic ignition with an extra wire for plugging in a tach and stand offs. This size engine takes a 22" blade and that's the distance from the fire wall to the fuse (granted, 6" farther out, the fuse narrows so the blades may fit but not sure what distance that is available to clear the ground since the retracts are still at robart's repair shop). I also may be able to use a scale 4-blade, 18/12 prop from Biela.
The nose canopy arrived (bought a whole set, for back up).
The DLE-55 rear exhaust engines also arrived. Comes with muffler, electronic ignition with an extra wire for plugging in a tach and stand offs. This size engine takes a 22" blade and that's the distance from the fire wall to the fuse (granted, 6" farther out, the fuse narrows so the blades may fit but not sure what distance that is available to clear the ground since the retracts are still at robart's repair shop). I also may be able to use a scale 4-blade, 18/12 prop from Biela.
09-19-2012, 12:40 PM
#370
RE: Bates 106
Flakbait,
will do but it may not be until next spring. By the time I finish up the B-26 in October, it maybe getting too cold to fly her. I've heard a lot of good comments on the DLE's so I thought that I'd try them, especially since they have a rear exhaust. I usually stick with what I know and trust: DA's, Zenoah's and 3W's.
will do but it may not be until next spring. By the time I finish up the B-26 in October, it maybe getting too cold to fly her. I've heard a lot of good comments on the DLE's so I thought that I'd try them, especially since they have a rear exhaust. I usually stick with what I know and trust: DA's, Zenoah's and 3W's.
09-19-2012, 02:49 PM
#371
RE: Bates 106
Sam,
I have a DLE-55 side exhaust and it is a really good engine. It starts easy and runs great. It is an older model and has the Walboro Carb. I was curious about the new DLE carb and how it is going to perform.
The B-26 is awesome and I think you will have gobs and gobs of power with the -55's. Very nice work , as usual!
Thanks,
Stephen
I have a DLE-55 side exhaust and it is a really good engine. It starts easy and runs great. It is an older model and has the Walboro Carb. I was curious about the new DLE carb and how it is going to perform.
The B-26 is awesome and I think you will have gobs and gobs of power with the -55's. Very nice work , as usual!
Thanks,
Stephen
09-21-2012, 03:41 PM
#373
RE: Bates 106
Stephen,
The DLE-55 carb has their name on it and not walbro, but they are probably duplicates of walbro as I bought two dle carbs for my G-38's and they looked identical except no name on it.
Another pilot told me I should replace the piston rings with frank bowman rings: I tried finding his thread, which is suppose to be on RCU, but no luck. I was told that the dle rings are OK but Frank's will increase power. Not sure if this applies to early engines as products are, usually, continually improved and the rings may now be improved.
Acdii:
I'm old and stay indoors during the winter and hibernate in the basement building planes: actually, it works out well for me as I get a lot of building done and am anxious to fly, come spring. If I could fly 'year round', I would probably get 'burned out'. I like the change of seasons as each one gives (forces) me new goals to work towards.
The DLE-55 carb has their name on it and not walbro, but they are probably duplicates of walbro as I bought two dle carbs for my G-38's and they looked identical except no name on it.
Another pilot told me I should replace the piston rings with frank bowman rings: I tried finding his thread, which is suppose to be on RCU, but no luck. I was told that the dle rings are OK but Frank's will increase power. Not sure if this applies to early engines as products are, usually, continually improved and the rings may now be improved.
Acdii:
I'm old and stay indoors during the winter and hibernate in the basement building planes: actually, it works out well for me as I get a lot of building done and am anxious to fly, come spring. If I could fly 'year round', I would probably get 'burned out'. I like the change of seasons as each one gives (forces) me new goals to work towards.
09-26-2012, 03:50 PM
#375
RE: Bates 106
Rebuild (cont)
Engines.
The DLE-55 rear exhaust is replacing the G-38's.
I figured it was easier to make new removable firewalls (FW) than use the old ones.
I clamped the new 1/4" thick FW to the original and drilled out the bolt holes that hold the removable FW to the fixed FW.
The two engines are about the same dimensions: the cylinder head is a little larger as well as the muffler. I copied the manual from DLE's web site as they give you a 4 page manual in the box which doesn't say much (and half of it is in 'Chinese').
The standoffs come with the engine and allow the muffler and rear carb to clear the FW.
The manual is for the side exhaust and the engine mount locations are rectangular whereas the rear carb is trapezoidal.
The engine was mounted to the removable FW and then mounted to the nacelle. The cowl was dry fitted over the engine. Since the muffler and cylinder head are larger, some trimming was necessary.
This cowl got some minor damage and will be repaired, later.
The cylinder head sticks out about an inch so I won't have to worry about over heating!
The muffler comes with some neoprene extensions but they won't be needed.
Engines.
The DLE-55 rear exhaust is replacing the G-38's.
I figured it was easier to make new removable firewalls (FW) than use the old ones.
I clamped the new 1/4" thick FW to the original and drilled out the bolt holes that hold the removable FW to the fixed FW.
The two engines are about the same dimensions: the cylinder head is a little larger as well as the muffler. I copied the manual from DLE's web site as they give you a 4 page manual in the box which doesn't say much (and half of it is in 'Chinese').
The standoffs come with the engine and allow the muffler and rear carb to clear the FW.
The manual is for the side exhaust and the engine mount locations are rectangular whereas the rear carb is trapezoidal.
The engine was mounted to the removable FW and then mounted to the nacelle. The cowl was dry fitted over the engine. Since the muffler and cylinder head are larger, some trimming was necessary.
This cowl got some minor damage and will be repaired, later.
The cylinder head sticks out about an inch so I won't have to worry about over heating!
The muffler comes with some neoprene extensions but they won't be needed.