peter b-RCU

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with the fuse

91zulu

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Nice going. I like your style. Keeping it simple always works. No over the top nonsense.

ram3500-RCU

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I would say that this depends on what level of realism you are looking for. In our case, we prep the surface as if it were going to be painted (fill, feather, prime, sand), even if it is a fiberglass part. This fills all the 'weave' and defects in the resin. ANY imperfection in the surface will be seen in the foil. It is only a few thousandths thick. Any of the foil products out there, and there are several, have excellent adhesive, and will stick to even primed surfaces quite well. This is absolutely necessary IMO with built-up glassed parts.

Even with the above procedure, you will see an unrealistic 'orange-peel' to the foil surface. This is caused by the adhesive applied to the back of the foil, and unavoidable. But it can be removed by wet sanding the foil, after it has been applied, with 600 grit wet dry (I mask them off), but only if it has been applied over a very smooth surface. Another good reason for prepping the surface as if for paint. This can also be done in different directions to make each panel 'pop'.

Also, I like to draw the panel lines on the surface, overlap each panel by 1/8" or so, and then trim the seams. Most of these seams should be butt fit together. The full scale P-47, for instance, had butt joints on the seams, not overlaps.

Our Meister 102" P-47 in foil. The wings are Flight Metal, and the rest is Aero Foil from Meister.

peter b-RCU

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gary

your plane is gourgeos


ok back to the mines...


the bottom of the wing, first the panel lines..


peter

ram3500-RCU

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Thanks Peter. I'm with you. Nothing better to represent an all metal airplane with than metal. Another nice thing is that the older it gets, the better the aluminum foil looks.
Nice job and good subject.

peter b-RCU

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more bottom wing

peter

peter b-RCU

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HELP!!!!!

ed clayman i need more FLITE METAL, I MADE AND PAY MY ORDER 2 MONTHS AGO!!


thanks in advance,


peter


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peter b-RCU

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more wing!!

peter b-RCU

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because i dont have anyione helping me i need to use my head (and legs)

little masking tape to old the ruler

peter

peter b-RCU

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because i dont have anyione helping me i need to use my head (and legs)

little masking tape to old the ruler

peter

peter b-RCU

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almost there

peter b-RCU

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now the wheels doors

peter

peter b-RCU

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more doors

ram3500-RCU

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One reason why I now use Aerofoil from Meister. You'll have it in about 3 days. Another is that you can buy it by the foot, and in different widths like 12". Very handy.

panhandler

Great progress Pete . I am following this thread very closely sinse i am prepping my P-38 for aluminum foil.
I ordered my foil from Meister and i cought Dino as he was about to go out the door for an event when i placed it , he took the time to get my foil in the mail before he left . I had it 4 days later .

Keep the pics coming .

Dan

peter b-RCU

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please give me the info on that meister foil please

peter


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Greg Wright

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Peter, you can order the aero foil thru this web site.

Greg Wright

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Peter here are some more pictures of my f-100 that i am working on. You asked me why i don't have any overlaped panels it's because i am taping around the perimeter of each panel that i put down and triming up to the edge of the tape. Then when i do the next panel i tape over the previous piece of flite-metal to the edge of that one and i use that to make it a butt joint not an over laped panel when you pull the tape off it will leave a nice crisp line between the two panels.i have also primed over the flite-metal where the painting will be done.

peter b-RCU

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great put the photos please

peter

Greg Wright

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Here are some pictures from ed's site. My plane is all covered so i can't take any pix's for you.

ram3500-RCU

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Nice simple explanation Greg. Very helpful.

Here is a link to Dino's product. http://www.aero-accessories.com/foil-test.html

peter b-RCU

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this is great, but can you put bigger photos please

about the P-38, i have mine with OS bgx 3500 alcohol engines, do you think i better change for a DL 30 or a zenoah 38 or 45?

another question, is enough the opening on the bottom of the cowl or i need to open it more?

please let me know


peter

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ram3500-RCU

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I would use the DLE 30s. It is rear inducted (15% more power) and no carb hanging out the side, and has electronic ignition for easy starting and excellent throttle response. And they are priced right.

Remember the old formula for entrance to exit air ratio. 1 in to 4 out. This would include the area around the mufflers.

Those nitro burners will be very hungry, more prone to over heat in the P-38 cowls, and very messy IMO.

Greg Wright

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Hi peter, if it was me and i did it. I would put some DA 50'S in it or the DLE 55'S. With this power it was clocked by radar at 115 mph. when i had this plane i did not have any problems with them over heating at all that opening in the bottom should be enough for the exit air. The plane is with another owner now and he loves it. He is one of the designers for E-Flite at horizion hobby.

ram3500-RCU

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I must admit, I have seen this plane fly on 50s and it is impressive. The DLE 55 was not one of your listed choices, but I second the choice for a P-38 that flies like the sports car of air that it is.

You won't loose any performance with the DLE engines, you will just have more money in your pocket when done.