Top Flite Giant Corsair ARF Disappeared.
07-22-2015, 07:52 PM
#776
You can adjust the cowl gap to the fuse. There is a large radius at the front of the fuse and to be more scale like the cowl flaps are just about tangent to this radius when fully closed. So by default there is a gap and you can adjust that gap or go ahead and cut the flaps and set them at 10 degrees or so. Theres plenty of flow.
Making them function is a whole other deal and Id be happy to share what Ive done and tested on mine before.
I highly recommend NOT building and assembling the cowl per the manual. You can easily make it better with some very simple mods using the stock parts. The stock set up loosens up very easy and the cowl will rub on the back of the prop in flight ruining it in the process. Its also a pain to work with taking it off and on.
Im expecting a new fuse, stab, rudder and decals tomorrow so I can build a new ARF. My buddy and I are going to use a Saito FG84 and Im planning to remove the right thrust built into the box up front. Its going to be straight and concentric so theres no rocker covers poking out. Its been run on the bench now for about 5 hours so its ready to fly. I will cover how it all fits and my cowl installation. Im reusing my cowl flap ring and one of the cowls I modified before with the DLE 55RA.
Making them function is a whole other deal and Id be happy to share what Ive done and tested on mine before.
I highly recommend NOT building and assembling the cowl per the manual. You can easily make it better with some very simple mods using the stock parts. The stock set up loosens up very easy and the cowl will rub on the back of the prop in flight ruining it in the process. Its also a pain to work with taking it off and on.
Im expecting a new fuse, stab, rudder and decals tomorrow so I can build a new ARF. My buddy and I are going to use a Saito FG84 and Im planning to remove the right thrust built into the box up front. Its going to be straight and concentric so theres no rocker covers poking out. Its been run on the bench now for about 5 hours so its ready to fly. I will cover how it all fits and my cowl installation. Im reusing my cowl flap ring and one of the cowls I modified before with the DLE 55RA.
07-23-2015, 09:09 AM
#778
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I'm with you there. Chris: I don't mean to doubt you here, but if you go back two pages to post 746 the first pic I posted there was the fiberglass specialties cowl sitting over the stock cowl. And there was a bit of room between the two. When mounted I only have about 1/32" 1-1.5mm clearance from rocker covers to cowl on the aftermarket cowl. That is for all three cylinders. I'm not sure how removing the right thrust is going to bring the top cylinder down. I'm very interested to see what you come up with.
07-23-2015, 08:01 PM
#779
Ive seen the stock cowl with the engine but the rocker covers stick out on the left side. I figure if the engine and cowl are aligned concentric then the fit would be better. Worst case I put a spacer in the cowl after its cut and splice it in. I also cosidered cutting it and making a panel to access the engine.
07-24-2015, 05:51 PM
#780
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Chris,
You would need two spacers..
Since the cowl is round.. one for the horizontal and one for the vertical axis.
That would do it.. maybe enlarging the cowl by say 3/8 inch in both directions would do it.
You would need to measure to make sure what clearance you need.
You would need two spacers..
Since the cowl is round.. one for the horizontal and one for the vertical axis.
That would do it.. maybe enlarging the cowl by say 3/8 inch in both directions would do it.
You would need to measure to make sure what clearance you need.
07-25-2015, 12:26 PM
#781
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Can the rudder be setup with pull pull?
That should eliminate any issues.
I have planned on using bls451s for the elevators and a 9155 for the rudder. So i have plenty of torque, just need strong linkages to go with them.
Tony
That should eliminate any issues.
I have planned on using bls451s for the elevators and a 9155 for the rudder. So i have plenty of torque, just need strong linkages to go with them.
Tony
07-25-2015, 03:26 PM
#782
No pull pull on the rudder in any practical manner because its up higher off the fuse.
Im going to see now that I have a new fuse to work with how to remove the stock rudder wire link and replace it with music wire. I want the rudder to have authority at higher speed.
Im going to see now that I have a new fuse to work with how to remove the stock rudder wire link and replace it with music wire. I want the rudder to have authority at higher speed.
07-26-2015, 06:32 AM
#783
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No pull pull on the rudder in any practical manner because its up higher off the fuse.
Im going to see now that I have a new fuse to work with how to remove the stock rudder wire link and replace it with music wire. I want the rudder to have authority at higher speed.
Im going to see now that I have a new fuse to work with how to remove the stock rudder wire link and replace it with music wire. I want the rudder to have authority at higher speed.
07-30-2015, 08:03 AM
#784
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I have been working on the wings mostly, already installed the electric retracts, they are reliable so far on land. One thing I didn't like was Robart has its own cables/plugs with two wires for the retracts so conventional servo extenders will not fit. Anyway, I did modify a normal servo extension to fit and it seems to work fine.
I also got my Saito fg 60 and it is really a beautiful engine. It does fit into the cowl but it doesn't fit with the cowl ring as someone suggested before. I suppose I can still fit it in by turning the cowl slightly; once the ring goes through the cylinders twisting it back to its original position.
I was hoping to use the dummy engine along with saito but I think it will not work if I use the ring behind the dummy engine.
I also got my Saito fg 60 and it is really a beautiful engine. It does fit into the cowl but it doesn't fit with the cowl ring as someone suggested before. I suppose I can still fit it in by turning the cowl slightly; once the ring goes through the cylinders twisting it back to its original position.
I was hoping to use the dummy engine along with saito but I think it will not work if I use the ring behind the dummy engine.
07-31-2015, 02:32 AM
#786
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Yes, I intend to use stock exhaust. This might change though, if I find out that stock exhaust is causing additional installation problems I might switch to something else. Three of this would be also an option but will be quite pricy.
08-01-2015, 09:33 PM
#791
So this is the cowl flap ring. The cowl is mounted by radial screws from the outside, button heads. The ring stays with the firewall all thread studs on 3/4in spacers off the stock blocks. You can see how the fiberglass deforms once cut free of the stock cowl. Thats why I suggest backing it with carbon or more glass and either epoxy or CA.
08-01-2015, 10:08 PM
#792
If you want to do a high speed show pass wing down you need a little rudder to hold it or the plane will lose altitude. Plus you can fly a straighter pass instead of pulling in towards yourself.
This plane doesn't require cross control so much you pretty much get to use the right stick most of the time. But should you want to make turns with the rudder and have less bank angle your going to use the rudder at speed. My last Corsair with the stock rudder torque rod had terrible rudder authority just after take off at reasonable flight speeds. I could hold full rudder input with little to no effect. It wasn't until it slowed to land that I could use the rudder on final.
This plane doesn't require cross control so much you pretty much get to use the right stick most of the time. But should you want to make turns with the rudder and have less bank angle your going to use the rudder at speed. My last Corsair with the stock rudder torque rod had terrible rudder authority just after take off at reasonable flight speeds. I could hold full rudder input with little to no effect. It wasn't until it slowed to land that I could use the rudder on final.
08-09-2015, 01:08 AM
#794
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Is the fuel tank stopper provided with the kit gas compatible? It is black in color, gas compatible dubro stoppers are usually in brown(ish) color, I am wondering whether I should use this or get one of the dubro ones.
08-11-2015, 09:39 AM
#796
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Ok I decided to use a proper tank, it has 530ml capacity, I guess it will be good match with fg 60. I was test fitting the engine and I have a feeling that cowling is not overlaping enough when I use the instructed distance for the prop hub to firewall. I am attaching 2 images, one, cowl max back on fuse and the other as far front as it can get. Is it normal that cowl is barely overlapping to the fuse?
08-11-2015, 06:28 PM
#799
Rudder servo relocation project
So looking at the empty fuse with a fresh perspective Ive decided to relocate the rudder servo. It will be installed in the rear above the retract. The rudder wire supplied seems to have been upgraded since my previous Corsair. In an effort to further improve the rudder control I think its better to shorten the control rod to a couple inches. In this area the rod is not supported anyway. Theres space and opportunity to install the servo so lets see.
We're going to install a Ray English modified FG84 with a Keleo pipe so the little added weight to the tail wont be bad. Im debating having operating cowl flaps but there is a temperature activated device that opens them automatically. That would be cool, literally, but Im going to have to improve how I do the cowl flaps.
http://oregonscaleaviation.com/Resou...hermaCowl.html
We're going to install a Ray English modified FG84 with a Keleo pipe so the little added weight to the tail wont be bad. Im debating having operating cowl flaps but there is a temperature activated device that opens them automatically. That would be cool, literally, but Im going to have to improve how I do the cowl flaps.
http://oregonscaleaviation.com/Resou...hermaCowl.html
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 08-11-2015 at 06:32 PM.