ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
#202
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
ORIGINAL: darren763
Very nice job. I've enjoyed watching the build....Keep up the good work. What is the actual wingspan and length of the fuse?
Thanks,
Darren
Very nice job. I've enjoyed watching the build....Keep up the good work. What is the actual wingspan and length of the fuse?
Thanks,
Darren
#203
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
More cockpit progress. The headrest is built as-is from Ty with some holes being drilled into the sides to match the real deal. The canopy framing is scratched out from some more sytrene. The headrest also needs some support pieces as shown in this shot of Chino's Raiden.
#204
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
The radio box you get with the cockpit kit is generic and not the right size or shape for the Raiden. I did use it as a base though to build my own box. I used the extra knobs Ty gives you with the kit along with some more styrene and pins to get this.
I didn't want to go too nuts weathering it...I'm not sure how often someone would be messing with it?
I didn't want to go too nuts weathering it...I'm not sure how often someone would be messing with it?
#205
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
Here are the radio box hold-downs. I made these from some carbon rod and styrene. I also separated the rear portion of my canopy and cut the opening in the top so that the radio mast can protrude.
#206
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
Here is the headrest/rear canopy support and the canopy which is cut for the mast. When you cut the canopy it leaves the rear section with no frame on its front edge. I plan on using some of the extra canopy that you cut away to form the front frame.
#207
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RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
That cockpit is coming on great, the radio pack looks superb. Neatly built and finished.
Ian.
Ian.
#208
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
I was trying to get the Raiden ready for the WRAM show this weekend, but I dragged my arse too much and it won't make it. I visited the show today and the Raiden would have really shined there. Oh well.
So I spent time weathering the fuse and setting up the sliding canopy in a way similar to Ian's. The Raiden canopy uses four separate rails, one in the front and one in the rear, both sides. I got the rear rails and rods sliding pretty fluidly. I still need to mount the fronts and then glue the canopy in place.
All that is really left after that is to make gun ports, then panel line and weather the wing.
The cockpit kit is nearly done and glued in place. I still need to fabricate the armored glass panel that was behind the gun site. I used the finishing resin trick to make instrument lenses in the dash, which I think needs a but more distressing to match the rest of the cockpit.
My major gripe with this ARF is that the gear mounts were not squared to each other. I had to remove one lamination's worth of ply on one side in addition to washers to get them even and so that the gear doors will sit flush. On that note, both of my gear doors were warped, one worse than the other. Wetting and weighing them down helped, but I think I will end up laminating some thin plywood to the insides as they are flexed against the warp to straighten them. That or just make new ones.
So I spent time weathering the fuse and setting up the sliding canopy in a way similar to Ian's. The Raiden canopy uses four separate rails, one in the front and one in the rear, both sides. I got the rear rails and rods sliding pretty fluidly. I still need to mount the fronts and then glue the canopy in place.
All that is really left after that is to make gun ports, then panel line and weather the wing.
The cockpit kit is nearly done and glued in place. I still need to fabricate the armored glass panel that was behind the gun site. I used the finishing resin trick to make instrument lenses in the dash, which I think needs a but more distressing to match the rest of the cockpit.
My major gripe with this ARF is that the gear mounts were not squared to each other. I had to remove one lamination's worth of ply on one side in addition to washers to get them even and so that the gear doors will sit flush. On that note, both of my gear doors were warped, one worse than the other. Wetting and weighing them down helped, but I think I will end up laminating some thin plywood to the insides as they are flexed against the warp to straighten them. That or just make new ones.
#209
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
This is my first attempt at weathering and I think it is coming out fairly good. My process is to go over all of the panel lines with a charcoal stick, then wiping "with the wind." Next comes in several sizes of silver pens and markers. The horizontal stab had panel lines drawn on with pencil. Charcoal powder mixed with water makes for good "streaking" stains on the panels. Some 0000 steel wool also gives some interesting effects, especially on the tail feathers, since they were fabric on the actual plane and tended to discolor/weather differently than the metal bits.
#214
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RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
ORIGINAL: Sessholvlaru
I wonder if it was crappy paint or the salt air? Both maybe?
ORIGINAL: MANFRED
you tell me
you tell me
#216
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
I got a new pilot today from my buddy Dean at Aero Accessories. He had one 1/5 scale Japanese pilot left from a now defunct UK manufacturer.
This guy fits way better than the 1/6 scale G.I. Joe figure and it about 1/10th the weight since he is mostly latex. I can also use most of the 1/6 scale guy's gear including his Japanese sun bandana.
This guy fits way better than the 1/6 scale G.I. Joe figure and it about 1/10th the weight since he is mostly latex. I can also use most of the 1/6 scale guy's gear including his Japanese sun bandana.
#218
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
ORIGINAL: Idigbo
Mine balanced with no lead. The battery is above the fuel tank which is just forward of the CofG. My spinner backplate is pretty heavy though. From memory, mine is balanced further back than the book says too. In flight, its a bit nose heavy, so I may remake the backplate a bit lighter. When inverted it needs a good squeeze of down elevator. Very very safe on stall too. Have you glued your tailplanes on yet?? I hope not since I have a recommendation. Since my flutter issues (completely my fault I must add) I found the need to replace the tube between the tailplane halves. It had fractured inside the fuselage. The repair was easy, I simply sleeved the inside with another ali tube, with a carbon tube inside that. When I put the model together, I was a bit unsure of that huge span tailplane on just one ali tube. The tube probably would have been fine in normal use, but my self induced flutter incident must have frightened it slightly!!! I've had the model out a few times since and it is rapidly becoming my favourite flier.
Ian.
Mine balanced with no lead. The battery is above the fuel tank which is just forward of the CofG. My spinner backplate is pretty heavy though. From memory, mine is balanced further back than the book says too. In flight, its a bit nose heavy, so I may remake the backplate a bit lighter. When inverted it needs a good squeeze of down elevator. Very very safe on stall too. Have you glued your tailplanes on yet?? I hope not since I have a recommendation. Since my flutter issues (completely my fault I must add) I found the need to replace the tube between the tailplane halves. It had fractured inside the fuselage. The repair was easy, I simply sleeved the inside with another ali tube, with a carbon tube inside that. When I put the model together, I was a bit unsure of that huge span tailplane on just one ali tube. The tube probably would have been fine in normal use, but my self induced flutter incident must have frightened it slightly!!! I've had the model out a few times since and it is rapidly becoming my favourite flier.
Ian.
i really want to know because in my plane i had to add 3,5 kgr!!!!!!is that possible please tell me its not true!!
whats the recomended cg in your manual;
Thanks! (i am looking forward for your answer before my maiden flight)
#219
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
Well finally an update. Got my electric retract upgrade boards from TBM and installed them. Easy to install but in my application I needed 8 new screws for the retract motor backplates as the new backplates use larger screws. They probably should have been included with the kit, or at least let me know that I might need them.
Total time lock to lock is now a scale 14 seconds.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4FgPqA3P-Y[/youtube]
Total time lock to lock is now a scale 14 seconds.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4FgPqA3P-Y[/youtube]
#220
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RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
Hows progress Sess?? I've put some panels and weathering on mine now, all onto the standard finish with petrol proof ink and paints.
Ian.
Ian.
#222
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
ORIGINAL: Idigbo
Hows progress Sess?? I've put some panels and weathering on mine now, all onto the standard finish with petrol proof ink and paints.
Ian.
Hows progress Sess?? I've put some panels and weathering on mine now, all onto the standard finish with petrol proof ink and paints.
Ian.
#223
Thread Starter
RE: ESM Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden build
Time to revive this thread. After failing to get the plane ready for WRAM 2012 I decided to get it ready for WRAM 2013. 400 projects had gotten in the way and I hadn't done much with the plane.
Getting back to it with a vengeance now.
The gear doors, as mentioned before, were both warped. I put them in my bathroom sink under maximum hot water while reshaping them and it seemed to work. I siliconed on the door mounts and fitted and epoxied the doors on to those.
What you see here is a few hours worth of weathering. Next is to mount the drop tank which will help cover the non-scale plastic belly pieces.
Getting back to it with a vengeance now.
The gear doors, as mentioned before, were both warped. I put them in my bathroom sink under maximum hot water while reshaping them and it seemed to work. I siliconed on the door mounts and fitted and epoxied the doors on to those.
What you see here is a few hours worth of weathering. Next is to mount the drop tank which will help cover the non-scale plastic belly pieces.