IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Just my opinion, but any future twins that I have will have to be all Zenoah powered, with magneto. Yep, they are not quite as powerful or lightweight as the others, but I can honestly say that in 30+ years of modeling the only time one of my Zenoahs has cut off is if I ran it out of fuel.
-Mike O.

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Sam
I was watching the video of the event, it showed the startup process of your b25, it looked like the left engine you flipped and flipped and when it started you made a coment it was running backwords. shut it off and restarted. check the video out and see what you think.
looks like a winter project to put it back together.

Mark Johnson

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Reading further I see it was the right engine that failed, never mind. was just thinking out loud.

JustFlyIt

Have to concur with the Zenoah/magneto engine recommendation. Solid iron there that never seems to quit.

jlarson31

Sam - did this happen on Thursday, early in the day? I was there Friday and Saturday, don't remember seeing this happen.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Yes, it happened Thursday morning.

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Pictures of your b25 just before the crash. Pictures 18 and 19 on this flicker account

2016 Warbirds Over Michigan: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jseese...57670120593605

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Deleated

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

McJ,
I have a 'road trips 2016' thread where you can post flyin pictures.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...-2016-a-3.html

Sam

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There was a couple of pictures you asked for of your b25 just before the crash. I don't know how to unlink them from the post I got them from. Sorry. that's why there's so many pictures
(In the flicker michigan link)

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

GARBAGE/Things that may be salvageable.

Finally, took the leap and dismantled the remains
No word yet from DA; they received the engines on June 22.

Amazing: some pictures actually show in my post versus the attachments!

acdii

Wow what you consider garbage, my friend and I rebuild! LOL If you only saw what his Cub looked like after the tree swatted it out of the sky.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

acdii,
It could be rebuilt but then would be heavier. This size plane gets a lot more stress so I would be more comfortable (probably also quicker) building a new one.
========

Got a call from Dave of DA and he apologized for the sensor falling off.
During our conversation, I mentioned I was building a Ziroli P-51 so he sent me a DA-85 for the plane. I'm sure most manufacturer's have a statement that they are only liable to replace any of their defective products but it was very nice of Dave to send me a DA-85.
Sam

acdii

So of the two, which one would be a good twin starter? I have a Twin Otter so have flown twins, but that one is all electric (I might consider going electric in one of both of these instead of gas), so it is most unlikely to have an engine out, though I did have a low voltage condition on one pack that did result in a very bad takeoff.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

For twins over 100" for a scale twin starter, I'd go with the ziroli C-45 twin beech. I've got, probably, a thousand flights on twins (P-38, B-25, C-45, P-61: haven't flown the B-26 yet) and I'm partial to gas engines. From what I can remember, I've had four 'engine outs' on the twins. One gets power, the visceral sound and able to run 10-12 minutes. I've had gas engines that, once set up, I've never touched them for adjustments for over 300 flights and they start up easily.
It's mostly a matter of never flying twins if there is anything wrong on the plane. Today's equipment is extremely reliable and, always double battery packs for the receiver, I personally feel most crashes are due to dumb thumbs.
Sam

acdii

Hey Sam, I started putting my 101 B-25 together and I think I have a problem. I have a national Balsa kit that I picked up at Toledo this year, and first time I opened the box was today. Four of the 6 sheets of plywood parts are warped. The rib sheets are good, but the W5 and W7 parts are warped. I mocked up the center section to see how they all fit together, but the nacelle parts look a little too bent. What do you think, will these straighten out when assembled, or do i need to get them replaced?

bentwings

I'd try and get these replaced. You could try and steam iron them. You could fit some end grain balsa and straighten them but it's iffy and a lot of work. Otherwise just recut them yourself.



Byron

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Byron is good on his reply.
Laying them flat with weights and CA'ing some balsa strips may work.
I use my scroll saw and oscillating sander to make new ones as you will have to anyway as, if you read the plans, instructions, it says which parts should be made with aircraft ply and I haven't seen a 'cutter' yet that uses aircraft ply in their kits.
Sam

acdii

Well looks like NB is going to replace those 4 bad panels. I asked them if they could cut the one panel that has W5 and W7 out of 6 ply and I will pay the difference, just waiting on a reply now.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Surprised they are doing that. I read one site (don't remember which one) that said no replacement on parts. I can see their view as cost of replacement and shipping is expensive for what their reasonable charge for a kit. Also, builders have enough skill to cut their own parts if they're building a complete plane from a box of balsa.

acdii

Considering that at least 3/4 of the laser cut parts are warped, they made an exception. Small parts like the hinges or one or two missing pieces or sticks they wont ship. These are 12" x 48" sheets, and four out of six were warped. It is also the second kit I bought from them.

acdii

I got the replacement parts 2 days later and started putting it together. I have the W5,6,7 and NB glued with the spar, and everything placed, but forgot to order the wing tube. I want that so that I can line everything up before gluing the ribs to the spar in case I need to enlarge the holes or adjust things first. Going to start the outer panels too which will help with the tube alignment. In the meantime going to review this thread from page one for anything I can glean off it.

I was wondering, is there any reason NOT to make a removable 3 piece wing? There are two options a full removable wing or fixed three piece. Still trying to decide on engines, and thinking the Saito FG-30 should be enough to fly the 101" version. I would like the 36 but they are no longer sold and hard to find used. The FG-40 would probably be the ideal engine, but they are a bit more than I would like to spend at this time. I want a 4 stroke for this, I can't stand 2 stroke sounds in a Warbird.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

For this kind of project,save and get what you really want.

acdii

Well, I have 2 blocks of hardwood, one that about 3/4" x 1" and one thats 3/4" x 2" and no idea which one is for the wing hold down blocks that go in the fuse. Aside from those, what else would it be used for? Are the landing gear mounts 1/2" x 1/2" hardwood? Other than the gear mounts and the wing hold downs, where else is hard wood used in this plane?

acdii

Hey Sam, I need your expertise on this. I have the wing bolted on and setting the stab. With the fuse leveled by putting a level over CG, what should the incidence be for the horizontal stab? I show -1 1/2 degrees. Also what would you recommend I do for gluing it in place? Other than the rear former that sticks up into the stab, and the 1/8" ply it sits on, there really isn't much meat to attach it to.

I tried to measure the wing incidence, but the bar isn't long enough on what I have, so I have to mock something up, but not yet sure what. I would post pics, but can't find my cable at the moment.