samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Interior colors:
Stuff that has to be painted before the aluminum tape is added.
I used rustoleum spray moss green to paint all the cockpit, fire wall area, doors, gear area, TE of vertical fins and wings. Since I'll be putting the air tanks right where the side gun blisters are, I painted that area black to hide the interior (tanks will be painted. later).

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Priming/panel lines (cont)
The primer was lightly sanded and the chart tape removed from the parts.
She's now basically one big ARF that has to be assembled.
The cloth covered tail surfaces will be covered with aluminum solartex.
Now, she will sit until after flying season when the aluminum tape will be applied.
It will take about 140 hours to applied the aluminum tape and rivets.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

priming/panel lines (cont)
remaining pictures from the previous post.

rossmick

Sam
Outstanding explanation, and lesson, on primer and panel lines. As I have never done panel lines with tape I am plenty nervous about it as I tend to be much more tense when I get to the finishing stage. I can manage the build with very little strain, but when it comes to finishing I just seize up. I would assume that to get the tape off you have to sand down to the tape and then somehow pull the tape away. Any special tools to get the tape off? Once off, then lightly sand the edges or does the tape come off clean? I am going to paint the plane so that will tend to fill some of the panel line does it not? Or do I wait until the paint is dry and then pull the tape? A million questions and I am months away from the finishing stage. Maybe by the time you get back to the B-25 I will be closing in on the same condition of the build.

Thanks for the information on the tape, I have looked all over Tucson and could not come up with a good source. It is funny as we use to use the tape on our maps that we made up to carry with us in the fighter to get to the target but I never knew where it came from other than the intel. shop. Thanks again.

tevans55

http://www.artsupplywarehouse.com/pr...il.php?id=4887

Ross- Here is where I bought mine. I have found Chart Pak to be the best as it resists tearing when I remove it.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Just lightly sand until the top of the tape shows and then remove the tape. Some light sanding can be done after for any rough edges. Painting is done last.

rossmick

Sam and tevans55, thanks for the info on the tape - already ordered.
My son and his wife just finished a 10 day visit from Portsmouth England which took us up to the Grand Canyon in the 5th wheel and sites in Northern Arizona, also got to see the Lowell Observatory again. The trip also caused me to clean the shop one more time so now there is no excuse not to get started back on the B-25 and Corsair. The plan is to glass, prime, tape, and paint the Corsair first to get a feel for the panel lines as a practice for the B-25.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Landing lights:
Went looking for some Xenon lights and found these (pictures) at autozone. They are LED's but very bright (90 lumens). Comes with batteries and button so you can check them at the store (blinding light). 21 bucks.

acdii

That reminds me, I need to find some LED's for my trailer interior lighting.

rossmick

Sam
Have you had any experience with quarter turn fasteners or cam locks for hatch hold down use? Full size use them all the time, but I wonder about vibration shaking them loose. Also they would have to be very small and not the full size. DZUS name comes up a lot, but don't know anything about them. Thoughts?

Leroy Gardner

Sam your doing a fine job on the details, now the rivets and I assume they are flush. Have you considered turning them with a sharpened brass rod the right size, it can be sharpened in side or out for size and cut in to the primer with a clear styrene guide with a scribed line down the middle to line up on the panel lines. you can also make a guide for double row staggered rivets. I did it on the TF 1/5 scale Mustang and it is an award winner. the plane had a base coat/clear coat finish. I scribed the panel lines into the primer also with real modified dental picks. It quite a job but it's the results I was after.

Leroy

alanc

Rivets on the b25 are raised,
some nice detail shots here, http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/nor...25j-in-detail/

Leroy Gardner

I couldn't remember if they were raised or flush so how about real aluminum rivet heads, they are punched from litho plate and these are 1/4 scale at 1/16" and burned into the primer with a solder iron. Vinyl rivets will never look like this and Dzus fasteners can also be made from punched litho plate. Plane they are on is a modified 1/4 scale Spacewalker and it too is an award winner.

Leroy

Leroy Gardner

After looking the B-25 over it appears to be mostly flush rivets, at least I didn't see any raised, same on many I had to look at. Pictures don't show these rivets (flush) well but raised do show up if there are any, the rivets used back then and still today when they are restored are braiser head, (very shallow) rivets if in fact they were used on the plane in the first place,

alanc

Well, sorry, but her rivets are raised, i walked all over one just a few months ago at duxford, she is a bumpy bird, and heres a snippet from a plastic model forum, and those guys are worse then us!

I have the Monogram in 1/48th. When I have this one finished, I will pose them side by side for a size comparison. I keep looking for the remote control radio to fly this beast! I can't imagine the size of the B-17 in this scale!
The rivet and panel line details are well done and not excessively wide or deep. That being said they are ALL WRONG! B-25's have raised rivets not flush rivets. It also has a lot of overlapping panels. This kit has none, this is the one time that some raised detail would have been correct! It does have the proper strengthening plates/joins(?)on the top and bottom wing surfaces though! The seatbelts are all wrong, as are the propellers.

acdii

The 25 is a mix of raised and flush. I hang around with restorers, and help restore a B-17E, so I can find out where the raised and where the flush are on these. Also keep in mind, a lot of restored planes are not factory restored, and can have the wrong rivets used, raised where there should be flush, or oversized to cover up mistakes. IIRC it is a mix of flush and raised on the panels forward of the wing, and all raised aft of the wing. Longerons are raise, and formers are flush, but haven't seen a whole one in a while. The Wings are loaded with raised ones, while the leading edges are flush. The Nacelles I believe are also all flush.

I dont know if this will post, here, but here is a decent picture of Champagne Gal showing the rivet patterns, raised and flush.

alanc

Great post

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Aluminum duct tape:
I had a 2 weeks to stay at my buddy, Scott Prossen's house between Rally of the Giants and 12 O'clock high so I took the B-25 with me to give me something to do while he was at work.
I got the wing, fuse, stab and two vertical fins done. I used home depot duct tape and a brass tube to apply the rivets, along with a bondo applicator and burnishing stumps to apply the tape.
Thanks for all the info on the finish. Presently, I'm just putting all flush rivets on. I made up some carpenters glue with some aluminum paint added to make raised rivets where needed.

Leroy Gardner

"Wow Sam", that looks great, I have seen that tape used before but not with the results you are showing and a lot less than Flite-Metal. This will be some plane when it's done, no doubt about it.

Leroy

acdii

I pulled out my 1/8t plans today after getting my bench setup, they fit perfect, so does the P-61. Then I was going over the plans I noticed it said 90-120 4 Strokes. If I build light, will a pair of Magnum 91 fly this?

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

ACdii,
I'm assuming you are looking at the 101" plans.
If you look at Ziroli's website under plans and then then spec notes, it says 26-38's.
http://www.ziroliplans.com/zirolipla..._frameset.html
Personally, I would stick with gas engines for reliability. Glow can be reliable but gas is so much easier to maintain: once set they rarely have to be adjusted. I've got a good 1000 flights on twins and I can count on one hand, the number of "one engine out's" using gas.
I don't remember the power of 91 glows but that doesn't sound like enough power to haul a 30 plus pound plane around.
Those plans were made decades ago when the availability of gas engines were not like today. Also, those plans show all kinds of linkages using just one servo which, saved weight, but will allow for a lot of slop 'down the road'. Also, those weights given on those plans are for planes built with no cockpit detail, etc and probably with fixed gear and I find most kit manufacturer weights are unrealistically too low.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Aluminum duct tape (cont)
Dry fitted the flaps and ailerons to the wings to align up the rib rivets from wing to moving surfaces.

acdii

Thats what I thought. I have been searching for a twin that I can use a pair of 91's on. When placed on the plans they are quite small too, even going CDI on them I would think they would be under powered, reliable, but under powered. It would most likely be between 9th and 10th scale to use those motors. It is the 101" plans too. I bet a pair of FG-21 Saito's would work well on this one if I can keep the plane light. After flying the T-clips with an FG-11, I am sold on the 4 stroke Saito Gas engines. Easy to start, once set, stays set, and uses very little fuel. I fly for 20 minutes on 3 ounces of gas. I also like that the weight on the entire engine with muffler and ignition weigh less than the OS 70 which is its equal. The next size up if a 30, which will fly it at the listed weight.

Too bad the Evolution 7-33 wont fly it, pair of 7 cylinder radials would just sound so sweet, but would have to be CDI.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Aluminum duct tape (cont)
Got the inner flaps done while watching Sunday afternoon football (great to have something to do while they post all those commercials and between the long time between plays).

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Aluminum duct tape (cont)
Bomb bay doors and top hatch done.