LuftM40

I'm planning to build a TF Gold P-47. The kit is inbound, and I want to acquire the other items I'll need to complete the project. I'm a pretty accomplished builder, but this is my first warbird. I'd like to make this project as detailed and accurate as possible...a true flying scale model. That said, I wanted some advice on the retracts and engine...which offer the best scale appearance? I would prefer a fuel project, but would go electric if need be. Was interested in the RCV90SP engines and Centuryjet retracts and tailwheel.

Also looking for a good source for aftermarket detail parts for this kit, ie cowling etc....

Mk23socom

My Feedback: (7)

I have two  RCV 90SP engines I want to get rid of. One is used and was bench run a bunch for testing and was mated to a Mustang but then was removed. Other one is new in box and was never even taken out of the plastic.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I don't see the reasoning behind an RCV in this particular warbird. The primary advantage of them is they are relatively compact, and could easily be fully enclosed in model of 'liquid coolel, inline engined' warbirds such as the Mustang or Spitfire.
The P-47 on the other hand has a huge cowl, in which it is easy to 'hide' a much more powerful and lighter engine, such as a Saito 1.00 (and other comparable 4 stroke engines). I don't think it would be an eggageration to state that the RCV .90 weighs 10 oz more than the Saito 1.00. And no: you won't need the nose weight. Mine didn't need any, and I even installed a retract tailwheel on it.

Shown is my TF P-47 ARF with Saito 1.00 'hiding' in it. Notice how well it blends with the dummy radial. Even the muffler is completely within the cowl, only a silicone exhaust extention hangs out.
NOTE: the Saito jug is pointing straight down:

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

As far as retracts go, Robart has teamed up with Down and Locked and IMHO is the way to go.. I am building the bigger TF P47 and waiting for the new gear to come out.. Contact Robart to see when they think they will have the ones you need...

Jimbo

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

Fiberglass Specalities has fiberglass cowls for sale. Top Flite makes an insert for the cowl that makes it look like a real engine. I agree, the cowl has plenty of room for all sorts of power plants. The kits usually build heavy so more power up front is a good thing. Good Luck and keep us posted on your project, Dave

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Bet a DLE20 would be a good gas option................

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

When I had one It was designed for one aileron servo with bellcranks that operated each aileron from the central servo like some mechanical retracts. If your kit is like that I would change that to use one servo for each aileron with no bellcranks - mount the servos out at the ailerons. The trick is to recess the servo inside the wing so only the servo arm sticks out of the bottom of the wing.

I would certainly use retracts and operating oleo cstruts, and use retracts designed so the oleos fit into a round pocket in the body of the retract - don't use the kind of retract that is intended to take wire struts and have to adapt the oleos with those stupid set screws- they have always been a pita and I never use that design retract - plus it would look lousy on a plane that you want to look real close to scale.

Take a hard look at the kind of hinges they provide - especially for the flaps - robart hinges look pretty good and hide fairly well if you are willing to take the time, but you may need to add blocks inside the wings and tail as you assemble the plane for drilling and gluing Robart hinges.

Ed

Mk23socom

My Feedback: (7)

+1 on ditching the bellcranks.. made setup much easier for me.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I have the CJ retracts in mine there is a leak somewhere in the system I was thinking I might send them off to D&L to have them converted to elec. since I can not seem to find the leak,they hold enough pressure for a days flying but not much more than a few hours,I used the Robart TW and it works well enough but I did need to do some additional strengthening with epoxy to the unit at the control horn wire connection, to keep it from loosening up its plenty strong now, the nice thing is the Robart unit was light

LuftM40

Thanks for the advice everyone, it is much appreciated. A lot of good ideas and leads. My plan is to build the bubble top P-47 D "Puddin-Head" of the 356th FTS, Italy 1944/45. It was flown by 1LT Howard "Sam" Barton. Barton had two victories over German ME-109s piloted by Italian pilots. After the war he returned to Wisconsin and became a dentist of all things. Sam Barton is related to my wife, and just turned 90 this year. I had the honor of talking w/ him over the holidays. He has total recall of his days as a fighter pilot, and was fascinating.

At any rate, this is a labor of love so to speak.

On the engine hiding issue...is it possible to conceal an entire standard engine in the cowling, w/ a flexible exaust tube routed out of a scale version of the real exaust tube ports?...ie, no other engine components portruding from holes in the cowling?

I will have to us the TF bubble top conversion for the kit, but think this version will be easier to build in many ways. I plan to glass the model and use the adhesive medal foil as a finish.

The landing gear are important to me as well. Many of the retracts on the market just don't have a good scale appearance for the P-47. The Robart electrics look very promising. Electric seems like the way to go.

Are there any scale cockpit kits for this model beside the vacuform version sold by TF? Not tto impressed w/ theirs but it could be used as a starting point for a scratch build.

Mk23socom

My Feedback: (7)

Refer to Post #3. CJhits it on the head. very easy to hide even a big engine. I have a DLE 20cc in mine and had to do very minimal cutting.