TBMAvenger

My Feedback: (1)

I am considering throwing in a DA-50 or DA-60. Would also appreciate any thoughts?

Would like to exchange the dead nose wait for reserved power from the DA engines....ohh and Yes throttle control is a must...

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

The Evo 40 and DA50 weight the same. You will still need nose weight if using a DA engine as they are crazy light.

TBMAvenger

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks John,

I have a DA-50 hanging around waiting for her to show up this week..NICE!

Hope she has enough room in that cowl. It's too pretty to butcher up...lol

Thanks for starting the build videos and build thred..

njmheli

Hi Doug.

The 5" Robart Ali whels will fit in without any problems ( maybe a bit more sanding of the rib in the wheel well ).........I'm using them...post # 395 in this thread.

Cheers.............Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Well,as you have all read,it would appear that this ship does suffer from gear door failure.........as noted by Doug's previous posts........

I have built up both outer and inner gear doors on my ship and after reading about Doug and his flying buddies "door failures",I decided to give my "stock-built-up" doors ago,with a couple of mods,albeit that she is not ready for the maiden as yet.
I built the doors,using a different door stiffner ( as the ones in my kit were soaked in oil !!! )........so I used some thin ply sheeting,but only down to the point where the round oleo was welded to the lower part of the strut ( ootherwise the gear door would sit too high off the oleo stut where the two 4-40 threaed bolt holes are).

As said,I have built up the inner panels on both the outer and inner doors ( see my earlier posts )........I could re-make the doors skins out of sheet ali,again building up with inner panels with platicard etc..
The built up "plastic" doors are pretty strong and hold their shape after forming with a heat gun ( to the aerofoil section in the wheel well area ).The only week spot is..as Doug mentions...where the bolt holes are ie: not probably enogh support thickness wise.....
I don't see a need for the outer doors to come off for any reason ( except if they fail !!! )......so I decided to JB WELD the doors to the oleo strut and also to fix a "hoop" at the top to stop any of the long section of the door from possibly "flapping" in the airstream.

This was a quick fix / extra bit of security for me at my stage of the build..........The photos show what I have done.

The result.....as far as I can test...........is as good as it could be............very strong and rigid...............final proof will be in the flying,but I feel very confident !!!

Cheers.............Nick (UK).

affas

Is the reccomended CG of 130mm a good start? I have all equipment as far forward as possible and the Moki 50Vt in the front but still pretty tailheavy. Hate lead....

affas

How much weight in lead can be expected with a 1500 gram gasser mounted??

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

I have found teh CG in the manual to be way to far forward. I have mine at 5-1/2 inches back from the leading edge. I know some have flown the model in the 5-3/4 inch range with no issues. At 5-1/2 she is still slightly nose heavy. The Evo 40 weighs 1450 grams so you weill need some nose weight.

I find it interesting how people say they don't want to add dead weight to a model. Dead weight IMO would be weight that does nothing for the model. Nose weight ensures your model will live and hence is just as integral to the success of the flight as gluing in the elevator hinges.

Warbirds need nose weight for the most part. Yes some don't need much but those are the inline birds. Any radial engine bird you build is going to need some. Take a look at the specs of the full scale P-47, Corsair, Bearcat, Zero, FW-190. There is a reason the noses are so short on the real ones; the engines were almost 30% of the weight of the entire aircraft. Our models are not like that for the most part. So we have to add weight.

I believe your Moki will fly the model great.

Doug Andre

Thanks Nick!

I will order Robart Aluminum wheels ASAP.

Doug

affas

Did my maiden today. Flew without cowling so I had easy eccess to engine adjustment on the new Moki 50VT. Had to add 300 grams upfront to compensate for the missing cowling. The engine runs pretty good but not able to adjsut the top end good enough. The engine hauled the plane nice but not very overpowered. I will make some video as soon as I have done some run and the cowling etc are installed.

The plane is as nice as predicted. Nice threepointers was made from the very first landing. Making new geardoors and small adjustment and I will be ready again.

Rxrc

I have a DLE 55 in mine and seems to do very well!
the gear doors have been a problem since flight number 2. i strengthened them with very thin metal wires that are capable of some bending and epoxied them down, doesnt look pretty but held the door in place so that they dont flex backwards
the other things you guys have to look out for are the cowl mounts as they can be chewed up due to vibration of gas motors so i installed aluminum to cure that issue.
and finally i used rubber foam at the hatch so that i stop the rattling in the air

So far so good still working out the bugs

i have a video on youtube just type hangar 9 p47 giant scale dle 55

Rxrc

Oh and one more thing!!
i had to add a pound of weight to the front on top of the fire wall to get it balanced thats with a DLE55 installed

oriole

My Feedback: (19)

John,

I'm sorry if I missed it, but how much nose weight did you add to your gas model.

Oriole

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

I can't remember but I believe it was around 12 - 14 ounces.

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Trust all the builds are going well and I'm sure that quite a few are finished and already "maidened"...........not too far off with my build,just the "weathering" and "dirtying-up" to do on the bird.Thought I would post a couple of photos on my RC installation and I have now done the final main gear test with both wings attached !!! ( at last ).

Cheers..............Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Guys.

This is the video for my final main gear test :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CHixWuKV1U

The U/C set-up uses a seperate Lipo battery,powering the JT sequencer and the Lado actuators on the mains and the tail wheel.The inner doors are slowed via two modified "servo-slows" ( many thanks to Mike at Model Radio Workshop..here in the UK ).I have a second delay put into the port actuator on the mains,just to give a bit of a "stagger" on the sequence.

Oh well,on with the "rivets and "weathering".

Cheers...............Nick (UK).

gade600sdi

So I saw a couple warnings about using heavy wire and polarity on the retracts from Robart. But, how many guys are using them and there are no issues? I can deal with setup issues and getting the gear doors to work ok, but I cant accept paying $600 for a set of 3 electric retracts that fail to come down and lock EVERY time. I see guys at the field all the time with mechanical and air retracts that rarely work properly. Can I get some assurance that these are going to work before I buy them? Anybody have trouble with them?

GLegee

My Feedback: (1)

What gas motor is good with a four bladed prop in this plane?

njmheli

Hi There.

I can't say anything about the Electric Robart retracts.............except that I have the DOWN & LOCKED Electric retracts on my T/F Staggerwing ( as you know the Robart Electric Retracts are supplied by D & L ),these have worked 100% ( albeit that these are the 1st generation of these Electric retracts ).

As with most things,READ the manufacturers instructions and don't stray away from these and all will be ok.I'm pretty sure that these retracts ( Robart branded ones ) have had many hours of testing and these guys know how much our aircraft cost to get in the air,they would not market an "expensive product "such as this through a well known "Branded name"..........so pretty much 100% certain that the "goods" will work as they intend.

The "warnings" I think are from "Doug's" post some threads back..........he did admit to not reading the "warnings" of the manufacturer and hence an expensive mistake to his control box !!!

On my part,my Lado actuators have also worked 100%.........so very pleased as it is a retro-fit done by myself into the pnuematic Robart set-up.

Electric retracts are the way to go............as with most things bought,you get what you pay for,quality and reliability appear to come at at cost !!!

Hope that your build goes well............enjoy.

Cheers...............Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Gary.

I an using a OS GT55 in my bird.............see earlier posts.........I intend to use or try out the following 4 Blade props on mine.

1/........Biela 19 x 8 Mustang profiled 4 blade ( see earlier posts for photo ).........not sure,but around page 13 or so in this build forum.

2/........Biela 18 x 10 Corsair profile 4 blade.

Was reading a bit of tech info I found on the web ( suported by lots of maths and formulae )...............stating that a 2 to 4 blade conversion require a 16% reduction in prop dia for the given pitch.

But as you know............there are pages and pages of comments on the subject of 2 to 3 blade and 2 to 4 blade............pros and cons...........best wat is to read and do some testing as all set-ups will be different etc.

Good luck !!!

Cheers..................Nick (UK).

tulz161

John's videos and this thread have lead me to purchase my own. I'll be doing a rimfire 50cc motor on 12s. Do you guys think it could handle 6600mah? I had a hacker a80 in an aero-works p-51 which was great to say the least. But I don't believe the hacker is worth the extra money.

Thoughts on 6600mah or even 8000mah?

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

I am sure the model could handle the extra battery capacity. Would make for some nice flight times. Good luck with the new bird.

AZThud

I have the older Hanger 9 Razorback, I fly it off a 10S config and have 6000 mah Cells, these give me a comfortable 8 min using an 18X12 prop (2 blade) Plane fly's pretty scale in speed and climbs almost straight up as far as you like. Ialso have a set of 8,000 mah and can fly 10 or 12 min with little problem, I might make 1 click of elevator trim difference, to be honest you can't tell the bigger batteries are in there except for the gas pilots all landing ahead ahead of me :-)

My guess is that the new bird will behave the same way, if you can fit the 8,000 in get them!!!

Good luck and Enjoy,

Cheers

tulz161

Thanks guys! Can't wait to start the build.

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

I have 12s 65c 5000 mah with the Hacker A60-16L .... I needed 12 oz in the nose to balance.

So I think you could lose the nose weight and run 6500 or 8000 mah packs..... I would say the only issue would be they won't fit in the stock battery tray if that's what you wanted to use.

You will have to do some mods to the battery area and just velcro them in, but it can be done