ESM Spitfire 72.5
04-29-2016, 04:22 PM
#228
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04-29-2016, 04:27 PM
#229
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hello Sandy,
mount your batteries in the engine bay if you can, the CDI unit as far forward as you can, you will need the weight up front. also move the fuel tank back over the C of G if you can, that helps with ground handling. I have a heavy turned alloy spinner with a turned weight in front of that as well. my C of G is close to 100mm back from the front of the wing at the join point.
cheers, Oldtimer
mount your batteries in the engine bay if you can, the CDI unit as far forward as you can, you will need the weight up front. also move the fuel tank back over the C of G if you can, that helps with ground handling. I have a heavy turned alloy spinner with a turned weight in front of that as well. my C of G is close to 100mm back from the front of the wing at the join point.
cheers, Oldtimer
04-29-2016, 10:13 PM
#230
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Oops... I assumed u were in the USA !!! Well so u are 4.5 hrs. Ahead of me...
The cdi is up front, I too hv a heavy alloy turned 4.5" spinner and batts will also be up front.... Need to look into pulling the fuel tank back... That's a nice 4 blade prop on yours... Where is it from ? My spinner is also 4 blade but am using 2 blade as if now.
I will be visiting our kids in the us in May... Can get the 4 blade then...
The cdi is up front, I too hv a heavy alloy turned 4.5" spinner and batts will also be up front.... Need to look into pulling the fuel tank back... That's a nice 4 blade prop on yours... Where is it from ? My spinner is also 4 blade but am using 2 blade as if now.
I will be visiting our kids in the us in May... Can get the 4 blade then...
04-30-2016, 03:04 PM
#231
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hello Sandy,
the prop is only for looks factor, I dont fly with it, probably could I have never tried,
it is from here, http://www.aircraftinternational.com...rbonProps.aspx
I fly mine with a 2 blade 18 x 10 Mejzlik carbon prop, with the 35 DLE and that prop the model will be fast,
cheers, Oldtimer
the prop is only for looks factor, I dont fly with it, probably could I have never tried,
it is from here, http://www.aircraftinternational.com...rbonProps.aspx
I fly mine with a 2 blade 18 x 10 Mejzlik carbon prop, with the 35 DLE and that prop the model will be fast,
cheers, Oldtimer
10-11-2016, 05:45 PM
#233
My Feedback: (5)
I just picked one of these up second hand. Im going thru it and making everything how I like. I have 2 engines, a DLE 35RA and 55RA. I know the 35 will fit no problem but Id really like to put in the 55. Anyone know if this has been done? I will have to move the firewall back a bit but I think the performance will be great.
Brandon
Brandon
10-11-2016, 08:28 PM
#234
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Hi Brandon,
I wouldn't recommend the 55RA. The 35 will provide all the power you need for this model, anything more is overkill plus bear in mind ESM fuselage are polyester resin not epoxy, poly gets brittle with time and UV exposure. Plus the wing structure is weak (see many posts earlier in this thread), and you get the point.
I wouldn't recommend the 55RA. The 35 will provide all the power you need for this model, anything more is overkill plus bear in mind ESM fuselage are polyester resin not epoxy, poly gets brittle with time and UV exposure. Plus the wing structure is weak (see many posts earlier in this thread), and you get the point.
10-12-2016, 08:09 AM
#236
Apologies, the major thread I mentioned is this: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...re-mk-xiv.html
Cheers,
10-12-2016, 10:57 AM
#240
Cheers,
Cheers,
10-12-2016, 09:31 PM
#241
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Location: GosfordNSW, AUSTRALIA
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Keep an eye on your fuselage behind the firewall. Mine developed a large crack going at least 1/3 the way around. This Spitfire has been a regular flyer for just under three years and this has only appeared in the last month. Am going to wrap a kevlar band with fibreglass inside and out to fix it.
10-12-2016, 09:56 PM
#242
My Feedback: (5)
After going over everything I plan on installing a new firewall about 15mm aft and reinforcing the entire inside with glass and carbon. I also plan on replacing the wood dowel wing pins with solid carbon rods and filling the area holding the pins with reinforced epoxy. I will also glass over all the seams I can get to.
On the tail I will be removing the stabs and hinging with pin hinges 4 to a side. I will also replace the joiner rod with a much stronger one. I'm also considering ditching the pull-pull for a push (or maybe pull) rod.
Thats for now, as I get into this bash I'm sure I wil find more that needs to be done.
On the tail I will be removing the stabs and hinging with pin hinges 4 to a side. I will also replace the joiner rod with a much stronger one. I'm also considering ditching the pull-pull for a push (or maybe pull) rod.
Thats for now, as I get into this bash I'm sure I wil find more that needs to be done.
10-13-2016, 01:25 PM
#243
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After going over everything I plan on installing a new firewall about 15mm aft and reinforcing the entire inside with glass and carbon. I also plan on replacing the wood dowel wing pins with solid carbon rods and filling the area holding the pins with reinforced epoxy. I will also glass over all the seams I can get to.
On the tail I will be removing the stabs and hinging with pin hinges 4 to a side. I will also replace the joiner rod with a much stronger one. I'm also considering ditching the pull-pull for a push (or maybe pull) rod.
Thats for now, as I get into this bash I'm sure I wil find more that needs to be done.
On the tail I will be removing the stabs and hinging with pin hinges 4 to a side. I will also replace the joiner rod with a much stronger one. I'm also considering ditching the pull-pull for a push (or maybe pull) rod.
Thats for now, as I get into this bash I'm sure I wil find more that needs to be done.
Jaz
10-13-2016, 09:50 PM
#244
My Feedback: (5)
Today I dove into the big stuff. This plane has previously flown so there's been a bunch of disassembly. I just can't leave well enough alone 
To get the proper firewall depth I removed the cylinder and installed the standoffs. Set the engine on the original firewall and installed the cowl. 3/4" too long.
Marked and removed firewall. Cut a new one and installed with resin mixed with glass fibers and a bunch of tow to create a super strong fillet. I will now glass behind the firewall and add reinforcements here and there.
To get the proper firewall depth I removed the cylinder and installed the standoffs. Set the engine on the original firewall and installed the cowl. 3/4" too long.
Marked and removed firewall. Cut a new one and installed with resin mixed with glass fibers and a bunch of tow to create a super strong fillet. I will now glass behind the firewall and add reinforcements here and there.
10-14-2016, 01:52 AM
#245
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Today I dove into the big stuff. This plane has previously flown so there's been a bunch of disassembly. I just can't leave well enough alone
To get the proper firewall depth I removed the cylinder and installed the standoffs. Set the engine on the original firewall and installed the cowl. 3/4" too long.
Marked and removed firewall. Cut a new one and installed with resin mixed with glass fibers and a bunch of tow to create a super strong fillet. I will now glass behind the firewall and add reinforcements here and there.
To get the proper firewall depth I removed the cylinder and installed the standoffs. Set the engine on the original firewall and installed the cowl. 3/4" too long.
Marked and removed firewall. Cut a new one and installed with resin mixed with glass fibers and a bunch of tow to create a super strong fillet. I will now glass behind the firewall and add reinforcements here and there.
I have an 88" Pica Spit with the 55RA in it which took a huge amount of work to convert from a rail mount glow engine. It weighs 12+kg and is really quick.
The 20x12 Mejzlik is a great prop for speed and ground clearance. Also the small Bennett muffler will give you extra room around the rear of the cylinder for the cooling air flow. Just watch for fuel vaporisation from radiated heat around the carb and fuel lines. My Pica Spit suffered really badly and required and lot of baffling to keep the carby cool.
https://vimeo.com/155070689
10-15-2016, 05:20 PM
#246
My Feedback: (5)
Some more work done. I get a lot of satisfaction from these kind of projects. I've never been able to leave well enough alone.
I glassed the inside with more glass that's in the fuse! Several layers of 8oz cloth with laminating resin has made the nose area very robust.
I decided to remove the cylinder to make life easier getting the engine mounted. It's all lined up nicely and I couldn't resist getting it on its feet. I'm also installing a tail wheel retract. Speaking of retracts, these ones are Sierra. They came with the plane and are obviously the incorrect angle. Ironically they are ME-109 retracts and struts.
With a 22x10 prop there's not much ground clearance.
Still a a good amount of work but I think the big stuff is behind me.
I glassed the inside with more glass that's in the fuse! Several layers of 8oz cloth with laminating resin has made the nose area very robust.
I decided to remove the cylinder to make life easier getting the engine mounted. It's all lined up nicely and I couldn't resist getting it on its feet. I'm also installing a tail wheel retract. Speaking of retracts, these ones are Sierra. They came with the plane and are obviously the incorrect angle. Ironically they are ME-109 retracts and struts.
With a 22x10 prop there's not much ground clearance.
Still a a good amount of work but I think the big stuff is behind me.
10-21-2016, 11:51 AM
#248
My Feedback: (5)
All finished up and ready to fly! For now I'll leave it as is and fly it a bunch. But I'd like to paint it and add some more detail some day.
The tailwheel is a Robart 121 .60 size. I used Kevlar string for the steering and up control. Down is via a spring attached to the rudder post. The servo is up front and locks over center when up.
The choke was a bit of work. I found some spare hardware that allowed me to rout it down next to the cylinder.
Weight is 17 pounds with 20oz over the engine to CG it. I put it at 110 based on info from threads on this plane.
The tailwheel is a Robart 121 .60 size. I used Kevlar string for the steering and up control. Down is via a spring attached to the rudder post. The servo is up front and locks over center when up.
The choke was a bit of work. I found some spare hardware that allowed me to rout it down next to the cylinder.
Weight is 17 pounds with 20oz over the engine to CG it. I put it at 110 based on info from threads on this plane.
10-21-2016, 12:04 PM
#249
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All finished up and ready to fly! For now I'll leave it as is and fly it a bunch. But I'd like to paint it and add some more detail some day.
The tailwheel is a Robart 121 .60 size. I used Kevlar string for the steering and up control. Down is via a spring attached to the rudder post. The servo is up front and locks over center when up.
The choke was a bit of work. I found some spare hardware that allowed me to rout it down next to the cylinder.
Weight is 17 pounds with 20oz over the engine to CG it. I put it at 110 based on info from threads on this plane.
The tailwheel is a Robart 121 .60 size. I used Kevlar string for the steering and up control. Down is via a spring attached to the rudder post. The servo is up front and locks over center when up.
The choke was a bit of work. I found some spare hardware that allowed me to rout it down next to the cylinder.
Weight is 17 pounds with 20oz over the engine to CG it. I put it at 110 based on info from threads on this plane.
Especially like how you have done the choke.
Jaz