Royal Zero Kit Build into Rufe
#126
Thread Starter
Here's the tail end progress so far: The wire joiner/clevis arm has been epoxied in place within the elevator halves and the inner pieces of balsa between the elevators have been tack-glued into position. The elevators are protected by
masking tape and then the inner pieces are sanded down to match the junction between stab, elevators and when completed, the fuse stab saddles get sanded to fit the whole shooting match. Another photo shows the fin and rudder separated, rounded and hinged to each other albeit temporarily.
masking tape and then the inner pieces are sanded down to match the junction between stab, elevators and when completed, the fuse stab saddles get sanded to fit the whole shooting match. Another photo shows the fin and rudder separated, rounded and hinged to each other albeit temporarily.
#128
Thread Starter
With the elevator joiner wire epoxied in, the leading edge slot for the wire is blocked in with balsa. I didn't want to do overlapping layers of Solartex at the elevator trailing edge, so I reversed engineered it as a one piece covering job with the
fold at the trailing edge and the overlapping seam at the leading edge of the elevators. Once that was finished, I applied two coats of e-resin at the root of the elevators and the outside edge of the "cheek" pieces that will abut them when all is attached to the fuselage. The inside trailing edge of the horiz.stab was also e-resined in advance before the hinging takes place in order to fuel-proof everything into a tight package.
fold at the trailing edge and the overlapping seam at the leading edge of the elevators. Once that was finished, I applied two coats of e-resin at the root of the elevators and the outside edge of the "cheek" pieces that will abut them when all is attached to the fuselage. The inside trailing edge of the horiz.stab was also e-resined in advance before the hinging takes place in order to fuel-proof everything into a tight package.
#130
Thread Starter
Hi Tom,
Gerry is taking the pictures and sending them to me. I'm just posting his words and the pictures as he sends them. Not sure of the size and not sure if the ones I'm posting on the Jemco PT19 (Scale forum)are posted at the same size. I'm not that good with changing picture sizes like that.
Ted
Gerry is taking the pictures and sending them to me. I'm just posting his words and the pictures as he sends them. Not sure of the size and not sure if the ones I'm posting on the Jemco PT19 (Scale forum)are posted at the same size. I'm not that good with changing picture sizes like that.
Ted
#131
Thread Starter
The inside edge of the elevators and outside faces of the cheek pieces (between the elev.& fuse have been primed, painted, detailed and masked with Mystic transparent tape. All pieces were then glued to the stab, which has already been glassed and sanded w/ another skim coat of resin, using the credit card squeegee and hairdryer treatment to flow it out without too much of a weight penalty. Doing this prep now before gluing it all in place was merely a matter of handling convenience rather than doing so when the plane is finally assembled. Gluing the stab in place is next but not before hairspray gets airbrushed into to interior of the fuse from the wing saddle to the tail.
#133
Thread Starter
The third photo shows a ply reinforcement plate epoxied and clamped into place on the front side of the wing L.E. fuselage bulkhead. Since that bulkhead had to be extended anyway due to the shorter A6M2 cowling, I was advised to
add the plywood as this is the area that the wing's L.E. dowels plug into and there isn't a whole lot of strength here,
especially since more lateral twisting force will be imparted to this area by the main pontoon which will be fastened to
the wing. The remaining "fill" piece of balsa will be added tomorrow after the epoxy has dried overnight and clamps re-
moved.
Photo # 2 is merely the gluing area of the stab saddle masked off before the interior of the fuse from the wing saddle
to the tail got airbrushed with hairspray to seal the wood from the inevitable possibility of dunking. I used an
airbrush only because it allowed me to get at as much inside area as I could since using the spray can
directly was out of the question.
Photo # 1: This is the nose-job the foredeck received once I discovered the original shape I sanded wasn't going to
cut it. Side cheek pieces were added, the original top outline from the tip of the windshield base to the
firewall was cut out and removed w/ multiple layers of balsa fitted in like a club sandwich. I used black
magic marker between all layers as a guide to sanding symetry before gluing it all up. With the bulkhead
extended to where it should be for this variant, the gun muzzle locations have been cut away, allowing
enough material around this spot to be further enlarged if the scale openings need refinement. I figured it
was better to take care of this business now before the tail feathers get glued in place and reduce some
of the hangar rash that happens with all this handling.
NOTE: Gerry mentions above the shorter cowl on the A6M2 vs. the A6M5 (which the Royal kit is modeled after). The distance from the engine thrust washer to wing leading edge is identical with both models so it was necessary to lengthen the forward fuse and shorten the cowl to stay true to the Rufe variant. When looking at the two variants you will see the trailing edge of the cowl is almost against the wing on the M5 and about a foot away on the Rufe M2. This is the reason for modifications being done.
Ted
add the plywood as this is the area that the wing's L.E. dowels plug into and there isn't a whole lot of strength here,
especially since more lateral twisting force will be imparted to this area by the main pontoon which will be fastened to
the wing. The remaining "fill" piece of balsa will be added tomorrow after the epoxy has dried overnight and clamps re-
moved.
Photo # 2 is merely the gluing area of the stab saddle masked off before the interior of the fuse from the wing saddle
to the tail got airbrushed with hairspray to seal the wood from the inevitable possibility of dunking. I used an
airbrush only because it allowed me to get at as much inside area as I could since using the spray can
directly was out of the question.
Photo # 1: This is the nose-job the foredeck received once I discovered the original shape I sanded wasn't going to
cut it. Side cheek pieces were added, the original top outline from the tip of the windshield base to the
firewall was cut out and removed w/ multiple layers of balsa fitted in like a club sandwich. I used black
magic marker between all layers as a guide to sanding symetry before gluing it all up. With the bulkhead
extended to where it should be for this variant, the gun muzzle locations have been cut away, allowing
enough material around this spot to be further enlarged if the scale openings need refinement. I figured it
was better to take care of this business now before the tail feathers get glued in place and reduce some
of the hangar rash that happens with all this handling.
NOTE: Gerry mentions above the shorter cowl on the A6M2 vs. the A6M5 (which the Royal kit is modeled after). The distance from the engine thrust washer to wing leading edge is identical with both models so it was necessary to lengthen the forward fuse and shorten the cowl to stay true to the Rufe variant. When looking at the two variants you will see the trailing edge of the cowl is almost against the wing on the M5 and about a foot away on the Rufe M2. This is the reason for modifications being done.
Ted
Last edited by chistech; 03-03-2014 at 05:43 PM.
#134
Thread Starter
Rufe Tail Feathers, Part Two: ( All photos should be chronologically viewed from # 5046 thru 59 if they're not viewed by up-down arrows on right side of text area.)
With the stab cemented in place, the fin base gets cemented in. Patterns of the stab fillets are made and transferred
to 1/16th balsa sheet and cut out. Each piece gets inked with Magic Marker and glued into place one at a time. The
"nose" pieces get the same treatment and application. When the glue dries, the shaping begins with an X-Acto half-
round gouge blade and then sanded to final shape using 3 different sized dowels. ( On the Rufe, these fillets ended abruptly, slightly ahead of the stab trailing edge.
I didn't think the fin getting cemented directly to the fin base would have been strong enough so I notched the L.E.
of the fin base and did the same for the fin and glued in a plywood tongue for a little more peace of mind. I ended up doing the same for the trailing edge where everything gets locked together well but not permanently joined as of yet.
The fin was dry assembled and then the final finish sanding of the base was done at this point with the side & front
angles of the fin carried down to the rounded lower edges of the fin base where it touches the stab. Lots of controled
sanding here, stopping every half minute or so and checking everything under a high intensity lamp and using finger-
tips in a braile fashion to make sure the transition was even all around.
Side pieces of 1/64th ply were added to the fin trailing edge. Since this photo was shot, triangular stock was added
along the inside edges and dowel sanded to a quarter round, much the same as the stab. At this point, the fin will be getting glassed and resined before being permanently cemented in place.
With the stab cemented in place, the fin base gets cemented in. Patterns of the stab fillets are made and transferred
to 1/16th balsa sheet and cut out. Each piece gets inked with Magic Marker and glued into place one at a time. The
"nose" pieces get the same treatment and application. When the glue dries, the shaping begins with an X-Acto half-
round gouge blade and then sanded to final shape using 3 different sized dowels. ( On the Rufe, these fillets ended abruptly, slightly ahead of the stab trailing edge.
I didn't think the fin getting cemented directly to the fin base would have been strong enough so I notched the L.E.
of the fin base and did the same for the fin and glued in a plywood tongue for a little more peace of mind. I ended up doing the same for the trailing edge where everything gets locked together well but not permanently joined as of yet.
The fin was dry assembled and then the final finish sanding of the base was done at this point with the side & front
angles of the fin carried down to the rounded lower edges of the fin base where it touches the stab. Lots of controled
sanding here, stopping every half minute or so and checking everything under a high intensity lamp and using finger-
tips in a braile fashion to make sure the transition was even all around.
Side pieces of 1/64th ply were added to the fin trailing edge. Since this photo was shot, triangular stock was added
along the inside edges and dowel sanded to a quarter round, much the same as the stab. At this point, the fin will be getting glassed and resined before being permanently cemented in place.
#135
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Wow, what a craftsmanship!
I have one question regarding the picture showing the vertical stab from the rear. The recess in the fuse, is that a "mistake" for the joiner/tab located further back ? Or is that there for another reason? Trying to learn here
Thanks V.
I have one question regarding the picture showing the vertical stab from the rear. The recess in the fuse, is that a "mistake" for the joiner/tab located further back ? Or is that there for another reason? Trying to learn here
Thanks V.
#136
Thread Starter
Gerry is a master craftsman and his work reflects that. I will pass on your compliments. The vertical fin is not all the way forward in the picture with the ply support in place. and was held back slightly from it's proper position for the photo to show the ply joiner on the fin rear and the recess in the lower fin support. The picture before that shows the tracing of the recess to be cut and in that picture the fin is in it's proper, full forward position. The fin will be moved forward into it's proper position and the ply joiners (front and rear) will mate perfectly with their corresponding recesses.
Last edited by chistech; 03-10-2014 at 08:19 AM.
#138
Thread Starter
Hello, I think you misunderstood me. I was agreeing with your comment on his craftsmanship, not criticizing your question of what he had done. I hoped I explained it for you. These build threads are hard sometimes to get the right meaning of one's words across correctly.
Ted
Ted
#139
Thread Starter
Though not in chronological order: 1/64th ply "cheek" pieces added to the aft fuselage with balsa added to the inside edges to reinforce everything. Also, the rudder horn is hidden under a piece of 1/64th ply and the clevis permanently
mounted as well. The photo with the X-Acto blade highlights the trailing edge of the stab trailing edge where it meets the fuselage. Two pieces of 1/64th ply were cemented together and was the ideal width to mate with that area after which the outline was sanded in place.
At this point, the balsa fairing pieces needed to be lengthened and this was subsequently done using House Bondo where the black lines indicate. The next group of photos will show the finished product when posted at the next installment.
mounted as well. The photo with the X-Acto blade highlights the trailing edge of the stab trailing edge where it meets the fuselage. Two pieces of 1/64th ply were cemented together and was the ideal width to mate with that area after which the outline was sanded in place.
At this point, the balsa fairing pieces needed to be lengthened and this was subsequently done using House Bondo where the black lines indicate. The next group of photos will show the finished product when posted at the next installment.
#140
Thread Starter
More craziness...........
Photo # 68: Once the lower portion of the rudder was glassed and wet-sanded, I used the "heat and smash" method of
molding the tail light bezel from the clear canopy sheet material the plastic modelers use. Before removing it
from the rudder, I marked the bezel outline right over the pre-drawn lines already in place.
# 69: At this point, the outside edges have been cut and the bezel temporarily put back in place after the balsa has been cut away and lined with thin white sheet styrene.
#70: Using clear plastic sprue material from a plastic kit, I turned a bulb and base of the appropriate size on a
power drill ( the poor man's lathe ) using an X-Acto retractible blade as a shaper. It was wet sanded down to
1200 grit and polished to a luster using Novus plastic polish.
# 71: The finished product with a notched stem to better anchor everything w/ epoxy.
# 72 & 73: The before and after of the epoxy primed and sanded lower rudder. I decided to do this procedure at this
time for the sake of handling since doing this after it was epoxied to the fin would have been more
problematical.
# 74: With the bulb stem epoxied in place, liquid masking was carefully applied to the bulb and the base and
white styrene inside area was airbrushed flat gray. The bezel was then epoxied in place and so ends this
episode of minutia madness.
Photo # 68: Once the lower portion of the rudder was glassed and wet-sanded, I used the "heat and smash" method of
molding the tail light bezel from the clear canopy sheet material the plastic modelers use. Before removing it
from the rudder, I marked the bezel outline right over the pre-drawn lines already in place.
# 69: At this point, the outside edges have been cut and the bezel temporarily put back in place after the balsa has been cut away and lined with thin white sheet styrene.
#70: Using clear plastic sprue material from a plastic kit, I turned a bulb and base of the appropriate size on a
power drill ( the poor man's lathe ) using an X-Acto retractible blade as a shaper. It was wet sanded down to
1200 grit and polished to a luster using Novus plastic polish.
# 71: The finished product with a notched stem to better anchor everything w/ epoxy.
# 72 & 73: The before and after of the epoxy primed and sanded lower rudder. I decided to do this procedure at this
time for the sake of handling since doing this after it was epoxied to the fin would have been more
problematical.
# 74: With the bulb stem epoxied in place, liquid masking was carefully applied to the bulb and the base and
white styrene inside area was airbrushed flat gray. The bezel was then epoxied in place and so ends this
episode of minutia madness.
#143
I had hoped he would bring it to the Bridgewater event this summer.
Speaking of Mary's pond, it was mentioned at a recent Wingbusters meeting do you have a date for it yet?
Speaking of Mary's pond, it was mentioned at a recent Wingbusters meeting do you have a date for it yet?
Last edited by iron eagel; 03-26-2014 at 05:12 PM.
#144
Thread Starter
PM sent. It will be Early Sept. like last year, probably second week end so it falls in between the NH Float Fly and the Charles River FF.
Last edited by chistech; 03-27-2014 at 05:53 PM.
#145
Thread Starter
Rufe sub-ventral fin.
Photo 5095: I settled on making this last part of the tail assembly by using a core of 1/16th balsa sandwiched
between two epoxied strips of 1/64th ply and weighing it all down on a sheet of plate glass overnight in
order to dry perfectly straight as shown in 5096.
5100: The SV fin epoxied in place w/ tape holding everything down. Not shown are the two pieces of a cut-
off section of allen wrench that was pre-drilled into this piece and rudder bottom. These pins
kept everything put and very straight with the belly centerline. The dark area at the hingeline
denotes where glue was omitted so a clean separation could be made later.
5101: !/16th holes were drilled through the forward section and birch toothpicks were taken down to
that size and cemented in place w/ aliphatic glue and hammered home.
5103: Finished product, separated and sanded round along the outside edges. Tail feathers are complete.
Photos of the main float construction will be coming soon. G.
Photo 5095: I settled on making this last part of the tail assembly by using a core of 1/16th balsa sandwiched
between two epoxied strips of 1/64th ply and weighing it all down on a sheet of plate glass overnight in
order to dry perfectly straight as shown in 5096.
5100: The SV fin epoxied in place w/ tape holding everything down. Not shown are the two pieces of a cut-
off section of allen wrench that was pre-drilled into this piece and rudder bottom. These pins
kept everything put and very straight with the belly centerline. The dark area at the hingeline
denotes where glue was omitted so a clean separation could be made later.
5101: !/16th holes were drilled through the forward section and birch toothpicks were taken down to
that size and cemented in place w/ aliphatic glue and hammered home.
5103: Finished product, separated and sanded round along the outside edges. Tail feathers are complete.
Photos of the main float construction will be coming soon. G.
#147
Thread Starter
Gerry stopped working on it but will be continuing it after the holidays. It should be done by mid year or so. I will continue posting info as he starts back up.
Ted
Ted
#148
Thread Starter
Hello All,
Gerry's back working on his Rufe. He spent a considerable amount of time helping me with my Shinden Kai project and then he designs and paints a custom Christmas card to send to all his good friends. He has started sending me pictures again and his text. I have to apologize as I cannot locate he first text for the accompanying pictures. I can tell you the following:
He has a Great Planes (?) wing jig that he has decided to use to build the float. The float is being built from a short kit made and scaled up to .60sz from the original Royal Rufe kit (40sz) by Brian from Royal Farms. Brian just scaled it up and didn't make changes to the slots for formers and stringers so you will see some thin stock added in the areas where the ply parts interlock. Gerry has also added some carbon fiber in places for strength. The original metal rods with the wing jig were not long enough so a trip to the local metal supply house fixed that problem.
Edit: Here is the missing text sent to me from his wife:
After a long spell, I'm finally back in the "RUFE-ing" business. Picked up some 4' steel rods and partical board base since my Great Planes wing-building
jig was too short for this main float. Once the appropriately sized jig braces were glued to the bulkheads, the gluing began. ( Tabs of 1/64th ply were cemented on both sides of all contact areas to fit all notched areas. Though everything was enlarged from a .50 sized Marutaka kit to scale fit a .60 sized Royal Zero kit, all pieces needed shimming up and larger custom ripped stringers.)
For my own peace of mind, 1/2" X .072 carbon fiber tape was epoxied to both sides of all support struts.
Gerry's back working on his Rufe. He spent a considerable amount of time helping me with my Shinden Kai project and then he designs and paints a custom Christmas card to send to all his good friends. He has started sending me pictures again and his text. I have to apologize as I cannot locate he first text for the accompanying pictures. I can tell you the following:
He has a Great Planes (?) wing jig that he has decided to use to build the float. The float is being built from a short kit made and scaled up to .60sz from the original Royal Rufe kit (40sz) by Brian from Royal Farms. Brian just scaled it up and didn't make changes to the slots for formers and stringers so you will see some thin stock added in the areas where the ply parts interlock. Gerry has also added some carbon fiber in places for strength. The original metal rods with the wing jig were not long enough so a trip to the local metal supply house fixed that problem.
Edit: Here is the missing text sent to me from his wife:
After a long spell, I'm finally back in the "RUFE-ing" business. Picked up some 4' steel rods and partical board base since my Great Planes wing-building
jig was too short for this main float. Once the appropriately sized jig braces were glued to the bulkheads, the gluing began. ( Tabs of 1/64th ply were cemented on both sides of all contact areas to fit all notched areas. Though everything was enlarged from a .50 sized Marutaka kit to scale fit a .60 sized Royal Zero kit, all pieces needed shimming up and larger custom ripped stringers.)
For my own peace of mind, 1/2" X .072 carbon fiber tape was epoxied to both sides of all support struts.
Last edited by chistech; 01-05-2015 at 07:24 AM.
#149
Thread Starter
The last of the bottom planking was finished today. I worked out a long, tedious system to get the correct shape
of the double tapered plank along the keel, which was the last and most difficult to fit in place. If that wasn't bad enough, even the bevel along the keel plank went from gradual to very sharp. At least the second one, which was traced from the first one, went in place in shorter time. Once done, the jig bars were removed from their pylons and everything was flipped over to check on gaps along the bottom planks. It came out quite well.
I made risers to fit under the jig pylons and I'll be picking up some 3" screws tomorrow to put it all together with
enough height to raise the keel off the jig base when I flip everything over to right side up and begin planking the sides and top of the pontoon.
G.
of the double tapered plank along the keel, which was the last and most difficult to fit in place. If that wasn't bad enough, even the bevel along the keel plank went from gradual to very sharp. At least the second one, which was traced from the first one, went in place in shorter time. Once done, the jig bars were removed from their pylons and everything was flipped over to check on gaps along the bottom planks. It came out quite well.
I made risers to fit under the jig pylons and I'll be picking up some 3" screws tomorrow to put it all together with
enough height to raise the keel off the jig base when I flip everything over to right side up and begin planking the sides and top of the pontoon.
G.
#150
Thread Starter
Now that the bottom and sides of the main pontoon for the Rufe are
sheeted, I thought I'd have a change of pace by making the balsa nose piece.
This balsa block happens to be
more dense and heavier than need be but it was the only material on hand
that was large enough so off I went. After hand saws, coping saws took it
down to size, I went at it with sharpened chisels and gouges, followed by
lots of 60 grit sanding and shaping until I got to the outline I copied off
the plans and transferred the outline to the centerlines of the main block
sawed right down the middle. Once the profile outlines were reached on both
halves, they were glued together and the top view outline was transferred to
the piece.
The top outline was had by lots of hand sanding and once reached,
whatever was left between these two datum lines was sanded down to a smooth
even transition. I finished the rough sanded piece with the obligatory
hollowing out as pointed out on the plans. Lots of elbow grease used up in
this 6 1/2 hr. session.
sheeted, I thought I'd have a change of pace by making the balsa nose piece.
This balsa block happens to be
more dense and heavier than need be but it was the only material on hand
that was large enough so off I went. After hand saws, coping saws took it
down to size, I went at it with sharpened chisels and gouges, followed by
lots of 60 grit sanding and shaping until I got to the outline I copied off
the plans and transferred the outline to the centerlines of the main block
sawed right down the middle. Once the profile outlines were reached on both
halves, they were glued together and the top view outline was transferred to
the piece.
The top outline was had by lots of hand sanding and once reached,
whatever was left between these two datum lines was sanded down to a smooth
even transition. I finished the rough sanded piece with the obligatory
hollowing out as pointed out on the plans. Lots of elbow grease used up in
this 6 1/2 hr. session.