Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread
#401
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Hi Col J,
What I did was to allow a small amount of the brass tube to enter the plastic tube but I filed the solder like a cone shape to ramp in and out smoothly. I left the clevis adjustable and I use Sullivan with clips.
What are you doing about the cowl for 84?
I opted to use a modified H9 cowl.
What I did was to allow a small amount of the brass tube to enter the plastic tube but I filed the solder like a cone shape to ramp in and out smoothly. I left the clevis adjustable and I use Sullivan with clips.
What are you doing about the cowl for 84?
I opted to use a modified H9 cowl.
On another note, I used to spend a lot of time in your area. My mother and step dad lived in Hayden Lake. We currently live in Republic, WA and in AZ for the winter.
#403
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Hi Chris, when you installed the dle 55ra did you use the three plywood spacers as called for in the manual? If you have pics of the engine install coul you post them. I am also use ping the EME starter which will require a little more surgery on the dummy radial. Thanks
#405
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great thread guys! i'm just getting started on mine and i just have to ask which robart retracts are you all using? are the electrics holding up and worth the extra money? are the air retracts powerfull enough to deploy every time? issues? i will be happy with either system as long as they are reliable. any help would be great guys !
#406
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Jagdpanther9 I've used both. In my corsair I have the Robart electric mains and tail. On it's first flight had a bouncy landing resulting in one motor being burned out and one axle and
wheel coming off the strut. Replaced the motor and it's ready for another flight. I would suggest along with the loc tight on the axle is to put a few threads on the opposit side of the
strut for additional security in keeping the axle from coming out. It's nice to see the electric gear come down at a scale speed. Can get the same result with the air system but takes more
tinkering. Hope this helps you. F4U Corsair Brotherhood #96 John T.
wheel coming off the strut. Replaced the motor and it's ready for another flight. I would suggest along with the loc tight on the axle is to put a few threads on the opposit side of the
strut for additional security in keeping the axle from coming out. It's nice to see the electric gear come down at a scale speed. Can get the same result with the air system but takes more
tinkering. Hope this helps you. F4U Corsair Brotherhood #96 John T.
#407
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hi john, thanks for the reply. i will take your advice with the locktite and i think i will be going with the electric retracts. i have a set of robart electrics in my H9 spitfire and they have worked flawlessly. i wish i could say the same for the robarts in my FW190 they handled zero side loading and have been a headache. john do you remember what you needed for robart servo extensions when using the robart electric main and tail retracts?
#408
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I used 2 24" extentions for the gull section and a 36" to go back to the tail wheel. The 24" will give you enough to pull the unit out of the gull section if you have to do maintance.
I mounted the controller just behind the receiver ahead of the servos. more than enough to get at everything. John
I mounted the controller just behind the receiver ahead of the servos. more than enough to get at everything. John
#412
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Lifer where is your CG at?
Mine is set at the front Spar and it can land very slow and controlled on a fairly narrow runway here.
I too maxed out the flap throw but they are very effective so I use flaps accordingly. More headwind less flap and I have only two settings.
In addition they will blank out the rudder authority so raise the flaps once your settled in especially full flap.
With CG a little back you can flare on approach with a high idle and my plane settles right down. I've tried 3 point landings but that's risky because the tail gear is too short for that. The angle of attack is too great and a stall can happen quickly.
As for my gear im using Robart air and it has more than proven reliable and sturdy.
Mine is set at the front Spar and it can land very slow and controlled on a fairly narrow runway here.
I too maxed out the flap throw but they are very effective so I use flaps accordingly. More headwind less flap and I have only two settings.
In addition they will blank out the rudder authority so raise the flaps once your settled in especially full flap.
With CG a little back you can flare on approach with a high idle and my plane settles right down. I've tried 3 point landings but that's risky because the tail gear is too short for that. The angle of attack is too great and a stall can happen quickly.
As for my gear im using Robart air and it has more than proven reliable and sturdy.
#413
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Chris,
Good question to ask! The balance point on mine is within 1/8th inch of the rear-most recommended point per the manual. With an 8 inch pitch prop it slows down just fine, but with 10 inches of pitch she comes in like a freight train. What amount of flap throw do you use on yours?
Good question to ask! The balance point on mine is within 1/8th inch of the rear-most recommended point per the manual. With an 8 inch pitch prop it slows down just fine, but with 10 inches of pitch she comes in like a freight train. What amount of flap throw do you use on yours?
#414
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The throw dimension I'm not sure except I made sure I could get the mechanical max throw the ARF assembly could provide equally per wing. I made sure the servo throw was not binding at max throw as well. I can measure it later if you need a number but that's how I went about it.
Ive used props from 22x10 and 12 on a DLE 55RA to a 24x12 & 24x14 on a Saito 84. In both set ups the CG point has been the same and the handling in slow flight has been very good. In fact I like the plane heavier with the Saito than with the lighter DLE. It doesn't float as much and it's less sensitive to flap settings.
If I override the the flap switch which is two positions with the slider then I can set the flaps to any angle. I haven't tried this yet but it would give you more options based on conditions when landing. There are times when half flap is too much or not enough. It's more work load for the pilot but you can set flap on a gear pass and then make the approach.
Ive used props from 22x10 and 12 on a DLE 55RA to a 24x12 & 24x14 on a Saito 84. In both set ups the CG point has been the same and the handling in slow flight has been very good. In fact I like the plane heavier with the Saito than with the lighter DLE. It doesn't float as much and it's less sensitive to flap settings.
If I override the the flap switch which is two positions with the slider then I can set the flaps to any angle. I haven't tried this yet but it would give you more options based on conditions when landing. There are times when half flap is too much or not enough. It's more work load for the pilot but you can set flap on a gear pass and then make the approach.
#416
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it looks like my electric robarts work flawlessly so i am very pleased with that but i know how reliable air can be and i hope i get good life out of these like you are getting out of your air retracts swordsn. john, do you use an auxiliary battery for your retracts or do you run off from the RX battery?
#418
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thanks chris, i just tested with a 1100mah 2 cell life as a aux battery pack for the gear and they work flawless so i will run that or another 2500mah pack . i have 2500mah life 2 cell packs for the RX and servos. here is my plan or plane =D . so far i have a acceptable TF corsair ARF new in the box, the robart electric main and tail retracts , HS 5645 digital servos for everything with quality servo extensions and switches, and my dream engine the Saito FG90 R3 with the Keleo exhaust . i have been following the break in procedure with a gallon of break in fuel through the FG90 and so far so good with that. i ordered the TF-20B cowl from fiberglass specialties so that should be here in a week or so i hope. i would like to access the batteries and fuel filler through a cover but i'm still not sure where i want to open up the fuse. i keep reading through the thread and have been looking through the interneet for other tricks that guys have done to the ESM and H9 corsairs as for me this is kind of a once in a lifetime build .thanks for the replies! and any advice is very welcome!
Brad.
Brad.
#419
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Brad are you aware the TF cowl will not fit the Saito FG90 ?
A replacement cowl from anybody unless specifically designed for that engine and the TF Corsair will not work without modification.
I had to use a H9 cowl and modify it to cover the engine and adapt to the fuse. I set the cowl flaps open 10deg to hide the big diameter difference. It's not my best work but it's ok. I made a custom engine mount and firewall system that allows me to pull the engine, tank and servo off the front all in one. The engine has been set to have zero/zero thrust compensation and it flies great.
Both the FG84 & 90 are the same outside dimension.
Also the TF / Monokote paint is not a match for the covering!! I used Tamiya lacquer Navy Blue for mine which is darker as a substitute and it's semi flat. If you can mix your own paint or paint the whole plane with something that will bite the covering then you will have a decent finish.
I should go back and paint odd parts to make it blend in as if the parts are from another plane or something.
A replacement cowl from anybody unless specifically designed for that engine and the TF Corsair will not work without modification.
I had to use a H9 cowl and modify it to cover the engine and adapt to the fuse. I set the cowl flaps open 10deg to hide the big diameter difference. It's not my best work but it's ok. I made a custom engine mount and firewall system that allows me to pull the engine, tank and servo off the front all in one. The engine has been set to have zero/zero thrust compensation and it flies great.
Both the FG84 & 90 are the same outside dimension.
Also the TF / Monokote paint is not a match for the covering!! I used Tamiya lacquer Navy Blue for mine which is darker as a substitute and it's semi flat. If you can mix your own paint or paint the whole plane with something that will bite the covering then you will have a decent finish.
I should go back and paint odd parts to make it blend in as if the parts are from another plane or something.
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 05-02-2017 at 01:39 PM.
#420
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hi chris, yes i am aware of the cowl. like i said in my previous post i ordered mine through fiberglass specialties. it looks sweet on V2'S corsair with the open cowl flaps. and there was a link for it in the comments.otherwise i had planned on the H9 cowl. here is a link to the video showing the TF corsair with the cowl.
i really like your engine module idea i bet that works out great for maintenance. i did go with a 32 oz tank as i would like to have 10 min + flights and without the retract air tank there will be room. i was thinking for the cowl paint i would go with the home depo color match Behr ultra acrylic paint.i have used it before and they usually get the color spot on and for just a few dollars ! it is fairly fuel resistant and a coat of clear laquer or TF clear kote will help even more. i would like to recover the model on the bottom with matt white or gray monokote and go with callie graphics SKY BOSS decals. servos all arrived today and all tested ok. so it is on with fitting the engine and where to make the battery hatch and fuel filler. so again, Thank You for the reply chris i am really thinking about the engine module like you made.
Brad.
Brad.
#421
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hi all, i am to the point of ordering graphics from callie. i was thinking that this model would take 1/5th scale graphics form callie but i have been told that this model actually uses 1/6th. has anyone used callie graphics for this model? what scale?
Thank You,
Brad.
Thank You,
Brad.
#423
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hi bob,i have the 86.5" span giant ARF version as well. i have picked out the "sky boss" graphics but which scale are used for this model. 1/5th or 1/6th ? this model is 1/5.6 scale .
Thank You,
Brad.
Thank You,
Brad.
Last edited by jagdpanther9; 06-09-2017 at 07:28 PM.
#425
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Gear doors:
There are many ways to hooking up gear doors, but not alot of "cheap" ways. I believe the regular kit built TF GS build thread has a few ideas on rigging up a mechanical wire and paddle type system in where the wheel closes the doors or having levers mounted to the doors is another. Other wise you need some kinda actuation system to open and close them. There are many pneumatic and or electric setups out there.
I already had the pneumatic gear for this plane so I decided to use some air cylinders to operate the doors and go with a UP3 valve. This type of air valve can adjust the timing of the doors and gear separately. I mounted it to the wing to keep all the air lines within it and only need one quick disconnect supply line from the tank in the fuse. The air cylinders are 1-5/8" from BVM.
There are many ways to hooking up gear doors, but not alot of "cheap" ways. I believe the regular kit built TF GS build thread has a few ideas on rigging up a mechanical wire and paddle type system in where the wheel closes the doors or having levers mounted to the doors is another. Other wise you need some kinda actuation system to open and close them. There are many pneumatic and or electric setups out there.
I already had the pneumatic gear for this plane so I decided to use some air cylinders to operate the doors and go with a UP3 valve. This type of air valve can adjust the timing of the doors and gear separately. I mounted it to the wing to keep all the air lines within it and only need one quick disconnect supply line from the tank in the fuse. The air cylinders are 1-5/8" from BVM.