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Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread

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Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread

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Old 08-19-2019, 03:36 PM
  #676  
Dsa44
 
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Originally Posted by Lifer View Post
I used a hollow plastic tube of the appropriate diameter to extend the tailwheel height about 1/2 inch. Made a visible difference and got the tail piece out of the grass.
Dear Lifer,
Could you please post a pic of how you did this? I have the Robart electric retracts, and the tail sits awfully close to the ground. I am worried I would rip off the tailwheel doors.
Thx! DSA
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:07 PM
  #677  
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The Robart tail retract can be modified with a spacer to increase the length of the gear. Just loosen the set screws and place a bushing in there about 6mm thick or maybe more if you can. The trailing edge of the retract bay might interfere with the tire so watch for that.

I’ll post pics of mine later...
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:03 PM
  #678  
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does anyone know of any paint that is available to match the covering on this plane, apparently top flite lustercoat ins't available now
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:07 PM
  #679  
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The spacer I used was a plastic bushing sold by Ace Hardware in their miscellaneous hardware section of the store. It was about 1/2" long and cost about $1.50.
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:16 PM
  #680  
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Got it covered ready for paint and got another hatch made
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:18 PM
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Cowl is fitted had to cut a small relief for a plug cap will make a blister to cover it
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:24 PM
  #682  
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Made new torque rods for the rudder and elevator out of music wire to fix the flex problem in the control surfaces
also made the elevator a common rod for 1 servo
also added new hard wood blocks to the rudder and both elevator halfís
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Old 09-02-2019, 08:19 PM
  #683  
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Originally Posted by stingray528i View Post
does anyone know of any paint that is available to match the covering on this plane, apparently top flite lustercoat ins't available now
That paint didnít really match either.
Ive tried a couple different paints out of the can with no luck. You can go to an auto paint store and have paint matched to the monocote.
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Old 09-02-2019, 08:23 PM
  #684  
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Dusturbd that elevator linkage you made is a good idea but I would be concerned with relying on that solder joint to take the torque load.
A better design would be to make the wire loop and twist so it’s one continuous wire. Then solder a couple plates or a tube over the center section to box it in. This way is bullet proof and will not fail. Just a thought...
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:07 AM
  #685  
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post


That paint didnít really match either.
Ive tried a couple different paints out of the can with no luck. You can go to an auto paint store and have paint matched to the monocote.
I did try that at one store, took a roll of monokote and the guy put the meter on it but he could not get a reading, he thought because of the flat color, I wonder if I should have him scan the underside of the covering as it is glossier then the outer finish
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:36 PM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Dusturbd that elevator linkage you made is a good idea but I would be concerned with relying on that solder joint to take the torque load.
A better design would be to make the wire loop and twist so itís one continuous wire. Then solder a couple plates or a tube over the center section to box it in. This way is bullet proof and will not fail. Just a thought...
thanks for the idea
that is a silver solder joint I have used that same setup many times since the early 90ís and have never had 1 fail not to say it canít or wonít but I have had good luck with them
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by stingray528i View Post
I did try that at one store, took a roll of monokote and the guy put the meter on it but he could not get a reading, he thought because of the flat color, I wonder if I should have him scan the underside of the covering as it is glossier then the outer finish
Maybe try the stock painted cowl to scan?
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post


Maybe try the stock painted cowl to scan?
Ya I took the cowl with me but he said he couldn't scan it because it was round and he needed a flat surface, I think I need to try another store
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Old 09-04-2019, 04:53 PM
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Thanks Chris and Lifer,
I was able to add a couple collars as spacers, but stripped the darned grub screw on the steering horn in the process. The shaft is at its limits, flush on top and bottom to the respective steering arm and wheel fork.
Upon retracting, there is probably another 1 cm or so clearance between the wheel and aft margin of retract bay, so I might just try a slightly longer 4mm shaft to push the wheel out further.
What do you think, good enough for grass, or get a longer shaft and move it out a little more??
Cheers, DSA

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Old 09-04-2019, 05:06 PM
  #690  
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And while we are at it, I should clarify, I stripped the -head- of the grub screw, not the threads. I tried a 3mm and 4mm size, but Robart must have used imperial ones. Anyone know what size grub I need to find for the steering arm??
Thx
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:18 PM
  #691  
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You can repair the slot in the head with a punch. Get one that's about the same size as the head and tap it.
It will close the Hex slot for you .
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by stingray528i View Post
Ya I took the cowl with me but he said he couldn't scan it because it was round and he needed a flat surface, I think I need to try another store
What about the gear doors?
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:48 PM
  #693  
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@DSA, that looks better and should be an improvement on grass. Occasionally if I run over a tough weed I’ve had a door linkage pop off or lost or a door hinge damaged.
On my plane I need to re-relocate my rudder servo so I can drop in the H9 Corsair retract. I put the servo above the retract and wheel where there’s room and that was ok for the Robart gear but not for the taller H9 gear.

On that set screw you can use a thin cut off disc and slot it. Then use a small screw driver to unscrew it. The cutting heat will help loosen it too.
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:41 PM
  #694  
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Hey fellas,
I am at the point of trying to get cg right. Dry, inverted, gear retracted, I tried 146 mm as suggested in manual and was way tail heavy. With an additional 1 lb lead up front, I was able to get it balanced but at 155mm. Thats all the lead I have at the moment.
I am curious where you have your cg's and if 155mm is still really out of whack.
Cheers, DSA

PS. If you need a set screw for the tail gear, I found out from robart they are 6-32 Thread, 1/8" . Mine were beyond salvage. Picked some up from from McMaster.
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:27 PM
  #695  
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I remember balancing mine at the wing spar and it has had 3 different engines. The lightest was the DLE55RA and it did require a bunch of nose weight. Just make sure the stab is at zero bubble, level, when you balance it.
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Old 09-12-2019, 03:27 PM
  #696  
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Washer or drill guide??
Hey, got it balanced nicely at 146mm with about 1.5lbs upfront and reshuffling the batteries! (Don't you love mixing metric with imperial?? lol)

Can anyone confirm if this top structure is a necessary prop washer, or just a drill guide, as it doesn't seem thick enough to be a drill guide??

Thx
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Old 09-12-2019, 03:39 PM
  #697  
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The rear part of the hub you are holding replaces the clamp shown in the picture.
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Old 09-12-2019, 03:56 PM
  #698  
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So just toss it aside for now...thank you!
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:21 PM
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It’s a spacer. If you use it make sure the bolts have enough thread engagement or you can strip the hub. Depending on the prop hub thickness and spacing you may use it from time to time.
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