Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread
03-26-2016, 03:55 AM
#376
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I have a da50 for power, was considering selling it and going wiith an eme70 twin.
Would rather have more engine weight than lead.
How is your ground clearance with the 24x10 2 blade?
Tony
03-26-2016, 04:32 AM
#378
Plenty of clearance with the 24x10x2.
Don't know how the twin would fit. The EME 60 sticks out a bit, but being on the bottom, it isn't very noticeable.
Test flight will be delayed for about 20-30 days. Getting the cataract removed from the left eye on Tuesday. Did the right eye 3 weeks ago. In that eye, I have the vision of a teenager now. Not bad for a 60 year-old geezer!
Don't know how the twin would fit. The EME 60 sticks out a bit, but being on the bottom, it isn't very noticeable.
Test flight will be delayed for about 20-30 days. Getting the cataract removed from the left eye on Tuesday. Did the right eye 3 weeks ago. In that eye, I have the vision of a teenager now. Not bad for a 60 year-old geezer!
11-16-2016, 10:40 PM
#388
My stock tank leaked, ditch it. I went with a Sullivan tank and alloy tank cap upgrade set.
I redesigned the cowl mount so it had external screws. The stock set up had issues coming loose on my plane. Afterwards it was fine, no issues with the cowl for about 50 flights.
I used a DLE 55RA and Xoar 22x10 prop. Very clean install. I did have to add quite a bit of ballast even after moving my larger than necessary ignition battery pack up front.
I redesigned the cowl mount so it had external screws. The stock set up had issues coming loose on my plane. Afterwards it was fine, no issues with the cowl for about 50 flights.
I used a DLE 55RA and Xoar 22x10 prop. Very clean install. I did have to add quite a bit of ballast even after moving my larger than necessary ignition battery pack up front.
11-17-2016, 11:23 AM
#390
Roger
https://www.rcpro.no/detaljer/EME55S...0cc-gas-engine
11-19-2016, 04:03 PM
#391
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Maidened mine today.
First flight was uneventful, except for some loose covering, which i applied as part of a scheme change. A little tape, and went up for flight 2.
Major horizontal stab / elevator flutter on a semi fast pass. Throttled down and landed quick. On roll out, hit a bump and the landing gear fell apart. There was no flat ground on the oleo strut set screws. Packed up and came home.
So looks like i need to upgrade the elevator linkages. I am thinking 5/32 carbon rod with 4-40 end links. Anyone know where to find a sheath for this size?
Or other options for upgrading / stiffening the linkages?
Tony
First flight was uneventful, except for some loose covering, which i applied as part of a scheme change. A little tape, and went up for flight 2.
Major horizontal stab / elevator flutter on a semi fast pass. Throttled down and landed quick. On roll out, hit a bump and the landing gear fell apart. There was no flat ground on the oleo strut set screws. Packed up and came home.
So looks like i need to upgrade the elevator linkages. I am thinking 5/32 carbon rod with 4-40 end links. Anyone know where to find a sheath for this size?
Or other options for upgrading / stiffening the linkages?
Tony
11-19-2016, 06:40 PM
#393
Good save!
So check that the stab assembly screws and epoxy for the stab is still intact.
You can use the stock rods but slip on brass tubes and solder the unsupported length from the bulkhead to the bell rank.
The brass tube can go up to the threads on the rod.
Ive done this before on the Corsair and it works fine.
Also so look at the gap between the stab and elevators to be sure it's as tight as possible. An air gap here can cause flutter. You can fold in and iron some covering strips to seal the gaps. Even packing tape can work. Otherwise you have to reset the hinges.
Post pics!!
So check that the stab assembly screws and epoxy for the stab is still intact.
You can use the stock rods but slip on brass tubes and solder the unsupported length from the bulkhead to the bell rank.
The brass tube can go up to the threads on the rod.
Ive done this before on the Corsair and it works fine.
Also so look at the gap between the stab and elevators to be sure it's as tight as possible. An air gap here can cause flutter. You can fold in and iron some covering strips to seal the gaps. Even packing tape can work. Otherwise you have to reset the hinges.
Post pics!!
11-20-2016, 12:47 PM
#394
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Will get some pics.
I thought the hinge gap was fine, but will double check and seal just to be safe.
Have to recover the one wing panel, more covering ripped off, oh well.
As for the brass tube, do you think that is better than upgrading to carbon rods?
It does look like there is some flex in the pushrod housing too. Oh how i miss the direct connection like on my aerobatic planes. Do not want to put servos in the tail, would have to add even more lead.
I thought the hinge gap was fine, but will double check and seal just to be safe.
Have to recover the one wing panel, more covering ripped off, oh well.
As for the brass tube, do you think that is better than upgrading to carbon rods?
It does look like there is some flex in the pushrod housing too. Oh how i miss the direct connection like on my aerobatic planes. Do not want to put servos in the tail, would have to add even more lead.
11-20-2016, 03:33 PM
#396
Will get some pics.
I thought the hinge gap was fine, but will double check and seal just to be safe.
Have to recover the one wing panel, more covering ripped off, oh well.
As for the brass tube, do you think that is better than upgrading to carbon rods?
It does look like there is some flex in the pushrod housing too. Oh how i miss the direct connection like on my aerobatic planes. Do not want to put servos in the tail, would have to add even more lead.
I thought the hinge gap was fine, but will double check and seal just to be safe.
Have to recover the one wing panel, more covering ripped off, oh well.
As for the brass tube, do you think that is better than upgrading to carbon rods?
It does look like there is some flex in the pushrod housing too. Oh how i miss the direct connection like on my aerobatic planes. Do not want to put servos in the tail, would have to add even more lead.
Full length carbon rods would be great too.
11-27-2016, 08:45 AM
#397
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Landing gear covers (snap on)
I trust everyone had a good T-Day. Have a question, has anyone had any difficulty in snapping these things onto the grea strut. I got one on ok but the second one will not snap. I understand that they need to be snug and I have been reluctant to put lube on the edge of it. Maybe I just need to warm it up a bit. It was quite a bit warmer in the shop when I put the other one on. Or maybe I just am not putting enough pressure on it, afraid of breaking it. I'm doing with the gear down so that I can get pressure from both sides. Thanks.
11-27-2016, 06:01 PM
#398
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Got 2 more flights on mine today.
Sealed the elevator hinge gap as suggested. Also, tigtened the elevator covering. No issues with flutter today.
Overall, the plane flew much better today. Tracked strighter and bobbled less.
End of second flight, landing gear failed to cycle. Flew around a few times and tried cycling multiple times and no result. Brought her in for a belly landing. i stopped the prop just before touch down and my buddy found a soft spot. i have no idea how, but escaped with no damage.
found the retract wire disconnected from the receiver. Going to have to safety wire that in place.
Tony
Sealed the elevator hinge gap as suggested. Also, tigtened the elevator covering. No issues with flutter today.
Overall, the plane flew much better today. Tracked strighter and bobbled less.
End of second flight, landing gear failed to cycle. Flew around a few times and tried cycling multiple times and no result. Brought her in for a belly landing. i stopped the prop just before touch down and my buddy found a soft spot. i have no idea how, but escaped with no damage.
found the retract wire disconnected from the receiver. Going to have to safety wire that in place.
Tony
01-11-2017, 03:45 PM
#399
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HI Chris, I am finally getting around to putting mine together. Did you leave the brass tube a little space on the bulkhead end or did you leave the brass tube long enough so that it slips in a ways into the plastic tubefor so that the sharp edge of the tube to catch on the end of the plastic control rod tube when moved by the servo. I also assume that you used the screw on and soldered on metal clevices that came with the plane. I am using the same engine that you did. Was going to use a Saito FG57TS twin but didn't think it would put out the power I wanted, besides, the 55 isa much cleaner install. I also installed a small piece of brass tube into the Rudder balsa block and hardened it with CA and it gets epoxied on the rudder when iti is installed. Thanks John
01-11-2017, 04:19 PM
#400
Hi Col J,
What I did was to allow a small amount of the brass tube to enter the plastic tube but I filed the solder like a cone shape to ramp in and out smoothly. I left the clevis adjustable and I use Sullivan with clips.
What are you doing about the cowl for 84?
I opted to use a modified H9 cowl.
What I did was to allow a small amount of the brass tube to enter the plastic tube but I filed the solder like a cone shape to ramp in and out smoothly. I left the clevis adjustable and I use Sullivan with clips.
What are you doing about the cowl for 84?
I opted to use a modified H9 cowl.