Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread
06-24-2017, 12:35 PM
#426
Stingray,
Sorry for the delay in reply. I don't know if I have the part # anymore as its been a long time since I built my corsair. It's possible they don't make it anymore or maybe I made a typo. You should be able to use any door cylinder from a 1 to 2 inch stroke. Its more of a matter of geometry or where you mount it to get the doors to open and close at the desired spots. A 1-5/16 to 1-1/2" stoke should be fine.
Just an FYI. Keep in mind you want abit of pressure on the doors when they are closed. Reason being, You'll set everything up with the wing upside down and then once you flip it over, you find the doors hang open abit. Also check all your cylinders for leaks "before" you install them. Saves alot of headaches down the road when you find the systems not holding air pressure. Most of the time its a cylinder leak.
Sorry for the delay in reply. I don't know if I have the part # anymore as its been a long time since I built my corsair. It's possible they don't make it anymore or maybe I made a typo. You should be able to use any door cylinder from a 1 to 2 inch stroke. Its more of a matter of geometry or where you mount it to get the doors to open and close at the desired spots. A 1-5/16 to 1-1/2" stoke should be fine.
Just an FYI. Keep in mind you want abit of pressure on the doors when they are closed. Reason being, You'll set everything up with the wing upside down and then once you flip it over, you find the doors hang open abit. Also check all your cylinders for leaks "before" you install them. Saves alot of headaches down the road when you find the systems not holding air pressure. Most of the time its a cylinder leak.
06-25-2017, 06:43 PM
#427
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Warbird
Thanks for the reply. I actually found the BVM 1 5/8 cylinder with 1" stroke at Dreamworks rc, on BVM they only list them on their stroke. And I hear ya on those air leaks, this is my second warbird so I had my pneumatics initiation on my Mustang , oh what fun
Thanks for the reply. I actually found the BVM 1 5/8 cylinder with 1" stroke at Dreamworks rc, on BVM they only list them on their stroke. And I hear ya on those air leaks, this is my second warbird so I had my pneumatics initiation on my Mustang , oh what fun
06-26-2017, 08:14 AM
#428
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Ok I have a question for yall , when I first got my Corsair I originally was not going to install the gear doors but when I started to install the gear well covers it just looked like hell and changed my mind to install the doors, but the next issue is I had bought the Xicoy V2S electric valve and to use it I would have to get another V2S and a electic sequencer and module to program it. That is what 2 people at Dreamworks recomend, But I think a UP3 should be fine and simpler and cheaper. So any opinions welcome
06-27-2017, 05:53 AM
#430
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07-09-2017, 02:48 PM
#431
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Ok, I got the BVM cylinders and the UP3 valve installed and the system works great. I really like that the UP3 has ports for both sides so you don't have to use a bunch of tee's to get the job done. So I will tackle mounting the cowl now, I just might finish this bird one day.
07-16-2017, 06:32 PM
#434
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I have finally got one of these fine birds. I got it from one of the older gentleman in my club. First things I've done is replace the stock cowl. Also put a 24" xoar on in. It has an older brison/ sachs 70cc on her
07-18-2017, 10:23 PM
#438
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hey guys, this thread has been great help for me and my build so here is a little shake down of my TF giant ARF,powered by a saito FG90 R3. after 1 gallon break in on the test stand and a valve adjustment @ 1/2 gallon it is swinging a xoar 24x12 prop and has a keleo exhaust ring. the stock fuel tank gives 7 min flights and comes in with 1/2 tank left! i use a 2200mah 2s LIPO fpr the ignition and i use the castle 10 amp bec set @ 6 volts for the RX with another 2200mah 2s lipo. the retracts are robart electrics and they run off a 1500mah 2s lipo which run them just a little faster than the life did. the only issued i had with the electric retracts so far is that they both had loose fasteners so i used blue locktite on all fasteners and lubricated all moving surfaces. they are very smooth and quieter after i lubricated the screw shafts and other points. i used HS 5645 digital servos all around with the futaba 7008 rx. "SKY BOSS" graphics are from callie and the cowl is from fiberglass specialties.
this model with the FG90 is an ANIMAL! @ some point i will post video =)
this model with the FG90 is an ANIMAL! @ some point i will post video =)
07-24-2017, 03:20 PM
#441
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crash repair
Hi Guys
Had a crash this weekend with my Corsair. I don't seem to have the plans or manual any more as it been a few years since I built it.
Does anyone have templates of the wing ribs they can scan and e-mail me?
Counting from the outter wing tip I could use templates 5, 6 , 7. I know these are not the numbers the plans list, but that's all I have to go by.
Or maybe they are on line somewhere?
Thanks
Tom
Had a crash this weekend with my Corsair. I don't seem to have the plans or manual any more as it been a few years since I built it.
Does anyone have templates of the wing ribs they can scan and e-mail me?
Counting from the outter wing tip I could use templates 5, 6 , 7. I know these are not the numbers the plans list, but that's all I have to go by.
Or maybe they are on line somewhere?
Thanks
Tom
07-24-2017, 09:48 PM
#443
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Elevator flutter
For anyone interested/concerned about elevator flutter on this plane, I believe I've come across a major contributing factor.
I've stripped the covering off mine and removed all the hinge points ready for glassing. Turns out the elevator actuating arms (?) are hinged with the pivots inset deep into the tailplane trailing edge. The elevator hinge points obviously pivot just behind the tailplane, so the hinge line and the elevator actuator are rotating on completely misaligned centres.
It's impossible for an elevator actuator, glued into the elevator, to rotate without wanting to move in/out or up/down within the elevator drive hole. Over time this will just tear open the elevator creating a sloppy fit, and inevitable flutter.
I've decided to simply run the pushrods out of the fuz on each side to conventional horns, to avoid the issue. Bad design flaw by Topflite!!!
Cheers,
Cam D
I've stripped the covering off mine and removed all the hinge points ready for glassing. Turns out the elevator actuating arms (?) are hinged with the pivots inset deep into the tailplane trailing edge. The elevator hinge points obviously pivot just behind the tailplane, so the hinge line and the elevator actuator are rotating on completely misaligned centres.
It's impossible for an elevator actuator, glued into the elevator, to rotate without wanting to move in/out or up/down within the elevator drive hole. Over time this will just tear open the elevator creating a sloppy fit, and inevitable flutter.
I've decided to simply run the pushrods out of the fuz on each side to conventional horns, to avoid the issue. Bad design flaw by Topflite!!!
Cheers,
Cam D
08-07-2017, 11:20 AM
#445
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