The velocity stack or trumpet was from Aeroscale and then I added the screen later. It’s aluminum expanded metal material for crafts from Hobby Lobby. I used high temp automotive silicone to bond it on there.

​​​​​started some of the recover

Two tanks run at about 3500rpm so far, so good! It ran for 20 minutes on 25oz so I’m pretty sure 10min fast flights are no problem! New engine maiden flight soon!

Looking good!

I just rebalanced mine and I’m getting ready to fly it again too.

Just FYI, DLE 61, Jtec Pitts style muffler for TF planes, stock cowl with dummy radial, required 2 pounds 3 ounces to balance at the wing spar, dry, gear up.

I’ll post pics for reference.

I finally changed the wheels to 4 inch gray wheel Dubro’s I happened to have in my box of stuff. Should be 4.5” but I went for light weight.

Thanks,
I see you went with the servo set up. How is that working for you? Any issue with vibration or stripping servo gears?
You have air retracts and servo doors right? Did you set up the sequence in your radio?

I did a dual micro servo controlled cowl flap mod and the vibration and heat messed with those servos. I upgraded the servos but I still had issues with vibration and heat wearing out and breaking the assembly. It looked great for a season then I scrapped it.

‘I’ve seen the group of GS war birds listed as RTC which I think is great, not cheaper if you consider the cost of covering film, but if you like to glass and paint that’s the ticket.
‘Are you saying there’s a larger giant scale Corsair in the works?

The outer wing bolts, 4 per wing, can be assembled at the field. The center wing section is bolted to the fuselage with two larger bolts and the plane can be easily transported gear up or down this way.
The round fuselage makes it hard to transport it without the center wing wing on unless you make a custom stand.

You will probably find out that you have to check the 3 outer wing bolts each flight. The 4th bolt, I call the Jesus bolt, never comes loose because it’s tightened into hard plastic and it’s pretty long. If you lose that bolt in flight and the others come loose then you get the picture. Make sure that one is installed every flight. I’ve landed with all of the bolts loose or barely tight before.
You can also file a flat where you can see the the tip of the bolts have already made an indentation. This helps make them safer from allowing the wing to slip off even if the bolt is not seated tight.

See the aluminum bulging where the bolt has deformed the spar? This makes it hard to slip the wings on/off. Go ahead and file that bulge off and make it smooth to match the spar.

Also, the threaded inserts in the wings that allow you to tighten the bolts will wear out or strip if your are heavy handed. They can be drilled out and replaced with brass self threading inserts and I have shown that on this thread.

Good luck, ask questions!

Post #582 pg 24

You can use this insert, same one I used. It has a nice coarse pitch and grips well in most materials.
I toughened up the wood in the wing and drilled it to the cylinder size of the insert, called minimum pitch diameter. Then use a short socket head M3 screw as a tool to drive the insert into the hole. It’s best to use a hex driver without a ball end. Add a drop of thin CA to bond the insert in place but don’t glue the screw used as a tool into the insert. OR, remove the screw first and then add a drop of thin CA. Either way you don’t want the insert to back out as you try to remove the screw.

Try one in a block of wood and see what’s going on. Pretty basic but good to understand.