nudger

Hey Guys
I know its another Mustang build,but this one is going all the way.Its gonna have a full cockpit from VQ Warbirds,best pilots pilot,Saito FG30 with keleco scale exaust,robart retractable tail wheel with operating doors,firepower drop tanks and shes gonna have a new paint job in Happy Jacks go Buggy scheme.So if you like mustangs keep watching.

Cheers Nudge

nudger

Work started with cutting out cockpit and trial fitting the vac formed parts.The fit of said parts I think are excellent and really add to the scale effect of the plane.The servo tray has to be cut out to allow for the full depth of the cockpit ,but there is plenty of room towards the back for rudder and elevator.


Nudge

Merlin Man

HI,

I look forward to this "build". I think the ESM P51D is a great canvas for a make over.

Can we see some photos of Happy Jacks Go Buggy ?

Cheers
Merlin Man

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I'm signed up Nudge! While I have little love for the D model Mustang I do enjoy your work. Plus, if there is any P-51D I can get excited about it is "Happy Jack's Go Buggy". Here's a pic I took at Chino a couple of years ago.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Why am I not surprised that Chad would be able to jump right on MM's request for a pic and was able to see the plane in person to boot

Wondering how(if?) you are going to address the forward retracting tail wheel and how to get the doors operate with the backwards geometry, Nudger?

I like the D model so...subscribed[&:]

nudger

Hi Guys
Glad you are interested in the build.Seems a shame to alter the esm/yt scheme but I just love The Happy Jacks one ive got to do it,much more eye catching.
As to the the forward retracting tail wheel frets24 im gonna stick with the forwards retracting to the back as will be much easyer to plumb in,and the doors will be some how spring loaded.
Nice pic chad would love to see her in the flesh but i dont think it will happen[&o]unless they get her over here to Duxford now that would be good

a few more pics
Cheers Nudge

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Nudger,
I went with a forward retracting set-up in a 1/6.5 scale Royal/Marutaka P-51 kit and if I had to do it again I would most certainly avoid the hassle and headache involved with that set-up. While it's really neat to know that it's there and has the scale fidelity it really isn't worth the time in the end. Standard retract is SO much easier.

Looking forward to watching this one as you progress.

Cheers!

nudger

Hi, glad to know I Il be taking the easy route frets24
Started by making up the firepower pylons.I had to add extra balsa front ,back and on the bottom to get a more scale size and apperance .Not seen anyone else using these bomb release systems so should be good fun.

Nudge

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Looks good. Bombs/drop tanks are always fun

nudger

Hi
Made a removeable servo box and mounted in center of wing and connected release cables.All went to plan with no issues{makes a change}so moved onto next job.
Made new horns out of glassfiber board for flaps and ailerons,didnt want the fixings to come through to top surface.Used savox digital servos for holding power for flaps.

Nudge

nudger

Ay up
Didnt want to have switches and fillers on side of model so took the plunge and cut a hatch in top of fus following the panel lines of the kit.Cutting such a large hole here is not ideal but a am confident the ply plate a carbon fiber I will be using will bring back the strength.The ply tray is made to be a perfect fit and when screwed in position there is no flex in fus at all.


Nudge

nudger

Er missing photos

Nudge

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

It looks like a fun project, nudger. I'll be watching...

nudger

Ay up
Finished and painted switch tray and reinforced the fus sides with carbon fiber cloth
Started work on undercarrage legs.Decided to round the square edges to give a more scale look.Also didnt like the wooden gear door holders,so started to make some new ones out of aluminium strip.

nudger

HI
Done a bit more on the under carrage doors,look much better than the wooden blocks.

Nudge

Merlin Man

Hi,
Looking good Nudger !

I have those ESM retracts and was wondering what you used to round them off. They do look much better that way.

Thanks, cheers,
Merlin Man.

nudger

Thanks Merlin Man
I just used a half round metal file to take of the bulk,and then wet n dry paper to rub out the file marks.

Worked on exaust stacks,pritty much went to plan and they look really cool.[8D]Very pleased.

Nudge

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Nudge, great work as usual man. If I can suggest one thing that would be to get those elevator and rudder servos as far forward as possible. Even on the fire wall. I know you will be able to find them a place up there some where. You'll save so much weight and you'll need to with the cockpit and pilot you are adding. I did this with my '109' and was rewarded with a sweet flying model requiring very little dead lead.

Cheers mate I am subscribed, hey how is that Spitfire??????

Brad

nudger

HI brad thanks
Good to here from you,Ill keep it in mind about the position of the servos.What weight did your Me 109 come out at,and what did you use for power{any link to thread?}

The spit will be coming out after this build,due to being a full on scale project I decded to do a quick build with the corsair,then i lost my old hack of a H9 Mustang ,and this is to replace that......I will be back on the good old spitfire thread in due course.

Chers Nudge

Merlin Man

Hi,

I have made around 6 different P51"s over the years and all have had their servos( Elevator, Rudder T'wheel )BEHIND the cockpit region.

I have not built the ESM Mustang but I would be supprised if it wasn't the same as the others. I suggestthat you check your Cof G before committing to their placement.

Just a thought,
Cheers,
Merlin Man.

nudger

Thanks for that Merlin Man
Il do a test load up of all items to be installed to get an Idea of placement.

I dont Know about you chaps but ive always had a problem fixing cowls.I dont like to see the large servo type screws on scale models soIve come up with a way that looks more pleasing.You cut small pieces of thin gauge steel and epoxy them on back of cowl where the scews are gonna go{these stop the holes getting bigger with vibration},
From the front you then countrsink the screw hole to take the screw head,so it all end up flush.
To stop the screws from vibrating out ,cut some sullivan inner snake and ca into fus.

Cheers Nudge

nudger

Some missing photos.

Nudge

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Nudge, great tip there about the cowl screws. I have always hated the servo screw thing but all I have ever done is paint the heads the correct colour for the surface they were screwing into. (most of the time) With the Spitfire though I did tiny blind nuts and machine screws. So much nicer. I do totally agree with Merlin Man as well,,, do check your CG before committing to the servo mounting on the fire wall. Check how much weight others have had to use as well. I did this and knowing I was going to do the cockpit and pilot put them as far forward as possible. Here is the thread I just add into. I start at about page 64 or so.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_40...64/key_/tm.htm

All up weight was 14.2 pounds with everything. I was even told I had a freak model to get this weight.

Every thing forward mate.

Brad

nudger

Hi Brad
Good work as ever on the 109,as a rough guess im looking at about 16 1/2 pounds fully loaded

Installed the saito fg30 and had to do a modification on the keleo exaust which is designed to fit the saito 180.Should drag the plane around in a lively manner

Cheers Nudge

nudger

HI
Fixed the snake in for the activation of the robart tail wheel,
Spent hours trying to get the doors to operate right,and finely got somthing that does the job.Had to put some ali arms on the side of the tail wheel.These pre open and close the doors before the wheel hits them.

Cheers Nudge