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TF FW190 GIANT ARF

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Old 09-30-2017, 07:30 AM
  #4476
Todd D
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy_Gun View Post
Im not sure you can reinforce the air retracts with the same method used on the electrics.
Look at this post for an explanation for both of your questions.
TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Its post #1849 on page 74 of this thread.
At the end of the text in this post I explain that I had removed both steel ballast plates from the nose and this had the effect of moving the CG aft by about 1.5".
You can see in the video how nice this plane flies.
By the way, don't be afraid to slow it down on final approach just before touchdown. I'm seeing videos showing some folks driving it in very fast to touchdown. All that speed is energy, and that energy must be burned off somehow.
Sometimes, in the course of landing at those speeds, the energy has a bad effect on things connected to those long gear legs.
This plane, balanced as mine is, slows down very nicely with the flaps at full deflection and is fully controllable right to ground contact.
Good Luck
thanks for the response, I pick up the plane next weekend so I'll be able to check out the gear situation then.
It is in need of some cosmetic TLC so not sure if I'll be able to get it flying the this season yet or if the first flight will be in the spring.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:50 PM
  #4477
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well I've had 4 flights on this aircraft to date. Powered by a DLE 55RA with Robart electric retracts.
1st: took off faster than expected but flew really solid, landing was not executed well and wingtip hit and flipped busting the canopy.
2nd: lift off was smoother, as flight progressed my top 2 engine bolts fell out and I lost all throttle response "full power", went to drop the gear and only one came down. set for a landing with one wheel down and killed the engine. made a perfect 1 wheel landing. no other damage.
3rd: after testing the gear which required nothing, it just worked and reinstalling the engine, the plane performed flawlessly and with half flaps deployed almost stopped in mid air. very happy!!!
4th: My muffler come loose, ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Landing with flaps is a breeze though. I felt like the became more stable with flaps deployed. Like-in-it,

sooner or later I'll have it all figured out.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:48 PM
  #4478
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hey guys, i edited the robart gear failure video finally. so here is the condensed version.

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Old 10-07-2017, 04:00 AM
  #4479
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I read somewhere hat Robart had changed their material for the gear to something harder. I have no idea if that's true. When did you purchase your gear?
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:49 AM
  #4480
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I purchased my plane and gear back in the spring of 2013.
I have bent and restraightened the pins but I have yet to replace one.

Balance this plane properly, and learn to slow it down for landing, and you will minimize this problem.
Something I see very few people practice is slow speed flight. You need to learn the flight characteristics of your warbirds at the bottom end of the speed envelope.
Any of them will fly just fine at full throttle. But you HAVE to slow them down to land. And if you don't learn how your planes behave just above the stall, flaps and gear up or down, you are setting yourself up for a nasty surprise or will always be landing with much more speed than needed. Meaning you are loading the gear and airframe to higher levels on touchdown and rollout. This increases the chances of damaging things.

A nose heavy plane needs to be landed faster than a properly balanced plane. The nose heavy condition requires you have more speed for the elevator to be effective and control the rate of descent.
When you have to land faster with a nose heavy plane, you will notice that the point at which the elevator gives up its authority will happen at a higher speed and more suddenly, and if this occurs with your 25 lb plane still 18" to 24" in the air, well, that translates to the forces of the planes vertical drop as well as the extra speed all having to be absorbed by the airframe and the landing gear.
We ALL know that tail heavy will DEFINITELY KILL a plane. But nose heavy is also a bad deal that can make a plane a beast to land as compared to balancing it properly.
Balance your warbirds not nose heavy, not tail heavy, but properly.

Again, once you have your plane balanced PROPERLY, go up to a safe altitude and learn the stall tendencies and handling characteristics at the bottom end of the speed envelope. Become as comfortable flying your warbirds at 1/4 power as you are flying them at full throttle.
Don't be the guy that takes off and leaves the throttle pinned at the top for the whole flight, and then causes everyone to run for cover when landing.

Personally for me, a properly flown mid field break, throwing out the gear and flaps entering down wind, pretty turns from down wind, to base, to final, and a clean final approach to a smooth touch down and roll out, this sequence is just as satisfying to properly fly, and watch others fly, as any wild aerobatics show.

Remember, Landings are MANDATORY. So learn to make them pretty.

Good luck

Last edited by Tommy_Gun; 10-07-2017 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:48 AM
  #4481
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Good advice! Reprint it in many more places as the nose-heavy issue is very common.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:54 PM
  #4482
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The new robart trunions have much harder pins and are actually quite sturdy. You can tell if you have the harder pins, the end of the pin is rough, and there's usually a three digit number on the trunion

I've been messing with these for quite some time, so believe me when I tell you that the new pins are much harder. It's been almost two years since they made the fix, so any gear or trunions older than that could be (and are likely to be) much softer metal.

Some other things we found (you'd have to go back a ways in this thread to see it) Make sure put some toe-out in the gear. It was specified in the real 190, and it helps prevent the gear from tucking under. Don't use the stock tires, they are too soft and fold under easily. Throw a pair of Dubro 5" tires on it.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:26 PM
  #4483
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Hey Todd, thanks for the feedback. Picked up the plane today. Needs some cosmetic TLC but all in all for what I paid I'm very happy. Plane must have started out as a electric gear and been converted at sometime. Previous owner sent along a bag with the electric actuators, a new sealed Robart electric control module, and a pair of new trunnions. The gear that are on it seem fine so I guess I'll have spares if needed.
Time to get started on the cosmetic stuff.
thanks again
the "other" Todd
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:41 PM
  #4484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd D View Post
I read somewhere hat Robart had changed their material for the gear to something harder. I have no idea if that's true. When did you purchase your gear?
this build and video was from 3 years ago but @ the time i had bought these they were suppose to have the hardened pins in them.i was very gentle with my landings but still with minimal side loading both sides failed.i replaced the pins with drill rod and it snapped after a bouncy landing probably from the heat generated from welding. i then went to the 1/4" allen bolt shank that held up quite well but i had welded one side off just a little bit and it had a tendancy to stick. my friend had bought a new set of sierras but he fixed his robarts by using the dual pin trunions from a set of robart p-51 retracts. i never did see how he did it but another guy @ the field did it to his 190 and both models have had zero issues with the p-51 dual pin trunions. i was able to aquire the set of sierras for a song and never looked back.
i just have wanted to shorten the retract failure video for years and finally managed to make that happen.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:12 AM
  #4485
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FYI, Tower has the FW190 on sale right now for 100 dollars of the regular. Mine arrived on Thursady, even cheaper with additional discounts. I plan on using Sierra retracts, haven't ordered them yet, but I do have the retract modification by Skyshark for the Sierra gear. I'm on the fence about it I should do the tail wheel retract. Anyone care to comment, If you had to do it over again would you put in the tail wheel retract. If I do it will also be from Sierra. Powering the plane will be a EME 70cc twin. I've read through most of this thread and it seems that once most get their retracts sorted out love the plane. Excited to start the build, but lots of stuff in front of it.
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Old 10-09-2017, 05:05 AM
  #4486
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I installed the Sierra tailwheel in two 190's that I built. I would not recommend it. The design of the tailwheel is such that any side load bends the shaft on the air piston. We've replaced them a number of times. The Sierra unit looks good, but all the work is not worth it in the end with the problems that you can have.

If I had to do it over I'd use a robart, or would find a good fixed tail wheel. By the way, between the weight of the mounts and the retract, combined with the added nose weight, a tail wheel retract can make the plane weigh two pounds more.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:53 AM
  #4487
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Thanks Hot Rod, yeah thats what I was thinking. This will be my 3rd Top Flite Warbird. I just want a Warbird I can take to the field and chase my friend's Top Flite P-40 around. Don't get me wrong I can appreciate all the extra effort everyone puts into the FWs to make them theirs. But I got a P-47 all decked out with a Saito 90cc triple. Only plan on flying that plane once in a while. Once I get everything assembled on the FW, if I need additional nose weight with the EME 70, I can always do an electric starter on the engine.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:05 AM
  #4488
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Hey Hot Rod, question about the new Robart. I've got the Skyshark retract modification kit to use the Sierra in the FW, but if Robart has fixed the gear problem it would be much easier to use the Robarts. Would you still make the modification to use the Sierra or go the easy route and use the Robarts? I'm still leaning to the Sierras.
Anyone who used the Skyshark modification for the Sierra have trouble putting on the door covers. On my last two Top Flite models with the Sierras, the door covers couldn't be used because they are not even close to sitting flush in the wing.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:19 PM
  #4489
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Default TF FW190 build

Reading all your threads . . . Getting nervous. 😬

Just started my build, all Sierra tail gear too plus the SkyShark RC inserts. Looks like gear covers are to be made plus hacking into the tail to fit a cylinder that bends?
Not promising 😥
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Old 10-10-2017, 05:36 PM
  #4490
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the only thing i liked about the robart mains is that the gear doors fit perfectly with no gap, the gear doors fit up with the sierra gear but i did have to re drill 2 holes on each side and they have about a 1/16" gap but i gladly live with that. i used the robart servo operated retractable tail wheel and have had zero problems with it. there was a little trimming and fitting but nothing like the air operated units. looking back though i could live without the retractable tail wheel it would have saved money to go with the fixed unit.
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:41 AM
  #4491
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One thing I did that helped stop the bending of the Sierra tail wheel piston was install an air regulator in the line. By reducing the pressure to 60psi, the tail wheel piston would compress if it took an impact instead of locking stiff as it does at 100psi. This allows it to take up the shock and will not bend near so easily. One advantage of the Sierra tail wheel is that it drops down lower than the Robart. This keeps the plane more level allowing it ground handle better.
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Last edited by Hot Rod Todd; 10-11-2017 at 04:41 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:06 AM
  #4492
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Thanks for the advise gents. I'll differentially go with the Sierra main gear and use the Skyshark modification kit. Even though I not going to start for some time it's nice to try to get all the extra parts ready.
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:12 AM
  #4493
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JV, If I built one now I'd put in the effort to mount the Sierra main gear. Keep in mind you need to add some dihedral to the wing or the angle of the gear will be wrong. I have the glassed 190 that Ramstein44 built early in this thread, and the Sierra gear has held up well (even though the plane weighs 33 lbs). I wish It had the dihedral modification. The wheels are angled quite a bit that puts extra stress on the bearings.
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:02 PM
  #4494
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Hey Hot Rod, is your FW 190 with the instillation with the Skyshark kit? Skyshark says "Automatically sets the correct gear rake and angle". I guess when I do start I'll dry if everything and see if what Skyshark says is true. The Skyshark plywood looks better that what is supplied in the kit.
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:42 AM
  #4495
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The Skyshark kit didn't exist when these were mounted, way back on page 12 in this thread there are some photos showing how the mounts were made by Ramstein44. I doubt the Skyshark kit corrects the wheel angle. The only way for that would be if the retracts were much deeper in the wing on the outside, which would put the struts at an angle through the wing. I don't think it is even possible to get 3 degrees that way. Others earlier in this thread talk about how they did the dihedral modification, it's not too hard provided you didn't already glue the wing together.

I doubt Skyshark realized that the gear is made for a wing with more dihedral than the Top Flite. I did check with Daryl at Sierra, and there's no fix for the gear angle. (He'd have to modify the gear dimensions, he didn't seem to be up for that).
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:04 AM
  #4496
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I went in and looked at the photo of the Skyshark mounts, and it does appear that they are recessed into the wing farther than normal. I'm not sure if it would provide the 3 degrees needed to get the wheels vertical or not. The struts would be angled across the surface of the wing, so you'd have a bit more work to get the Gear doors aligned.
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Old 10-12-2017, 11:32 AM
  #4497
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These photos will show that if the wing dihedral is left stock with the Skyshark inserts installed the angle of the Sierra gear is incorrect. With the wing dihedral modified to 5 degrees and the Skyshark inserts installed the Sierra gear angle is correct with the wheels vertical.

Roger
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Old 10-12-2017, 02:04 PM
  #4498
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OK, so if I do a 5 degree dihedral change, I'll have to cut a new wing joiner. Then what about the two forward wing dowels? I'm assuming that with the dihedral change that the forward wing dowels would need to be modified so that the wing seats flush with the fuselage? Or am I just over thinking it?
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:05 PM
  #4499
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Actually I think you have to change it from 2 degrees to 5 degrees, so a change of 3. There have been some posts about how to do it, I just don't know where they are right now.
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:34 PM
  #4500
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Quote:
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Actually I think you have to change it from 2 degrees to 5 degrees, so a change of 3. There have been some posts about how to do it, I just don't know where they are right now.
Correct, I made a 3 degree spacer/shim including a new 5 degree wing joiner to get the 5 degrees of wing dihedral. With the 5 degrees of dihedral, the two forward wing dowels are off center by approximately 3/16 inch and the two aft bolt blind nuts are off center by approximately 3/32 inch. Both forward dowel holes and the two aft bolt blind nuts are fairly simple to relocate to allow wing attachment.
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