TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#1026
Senior Member
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: pettit
The cup hook will keep the spark plug wire from hitting the muffler. The yellow hose is the tank vent tube and will go out the bottom of the cowl away from the muffler too.
The cup hook will keep the spark plug wire from hitting the muffler. The yellow hose is the tank vent tube and will go out the bottom of the cowl away from the muffler too.
Brass cup hooks are handy! Right up there W/velcro & zip ties!
#1027
My Feedback: (10)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: pettit
Just a heads up about the removable top hatch. The plastic sheeting on it is VERY fragile and any rough handling, like trying to remove the hatch by pulling on the sides rather than in the center, will break the plastic.
Don't ask...
I then ordered a replacement hatch from Tower, It arrived today, packed in a cardboard box with a number of those plastic ''air bags'' protecting it. Too bad the SAME CORNER of the hatch that broke originally was hitting the cardboard and this one was broken too, in the exact same place!
Tower is sending me a third one and I recommended that they use bubble wrap and don't pack it too tightly.
Time will tell.....
Just a heads up about the removable top hatch. The plastic sheeting on it is VERY fragile and any rough handling, like trying to remove the hatch by pulling on the sides rather than in the center, will break the plastic.
Don't ask...
I then ordered a replacement hatch from Tower, It arrived today, packed in a cardboard box with a number of those plastic ''air bags'' protecting it. Too bad the SAME CORNER of the hatch that broke originally was hitting the cardboard and this one was broken too, in the exact same place!
Tower is sending me a third one and I recommended that they use bubble wrap and don't pack it too tightly.
Time will tell.....
Do you think gluing some CA hinges to the corners or applying some thin glass to the bottom side to strengthen it would work?
#1028
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
I used some very thin G10 to support the edges when I modified the gun hood. Then when finished, It was all glassed.
I completed my fuse with the major details and thanks to Flakbait, my pink-it is now in route. Now I just need to order more rivits for the wing. The riviting kit came with 11400 rivits on six sheets. I've used all but one sheet. After priming the fuse, the rivits are almost flush so the debate on removing almost 9000 rivits continues.
I completed my fuse with the major details and thanks to Flakbait, my pink-it is now in route. Now I just need to order more rivits for the wing. The riviting kit came with 11400 rivits on six sheets. I've used all but one sheet. After priming the fuse, the rivits are almost flush so the debate on removing almost 9000 rivits continues.
#1029
Senior Member
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Well fellas, a little chunk of money I had earmarked for this project came in tonight.
I waited too long to call the local R/C hobby shop/convenience store/take out pizza joint & the R/C guy was gone for the day.
Anyway I'll be ordering the TF GS FW190A & the ELECRIC tailwheel retract tomorrow afternoon.
He's ordering from Tower, my price, $699 including shipping/
About the electric retract TW. I talked to Robart about this & even had them send me pictures. The electric TW retract, TH part # LXCKGH is exactly the same mechanically as the spec'ed manual t/w, it just has the jackscrew mounted to it.
As it is assembled, the electric TW will not fit into the cramped tail section, but the jackscrew can be removed & mounted forward just like a servo. The same type of linkage that would be used for a servo could be used W/the jackscrew provided the mounts could be fabricated.
That's what I am doing for the t/w.
So anyway the airframe & t/w retracts are paid for. Next $$$ outlay is the electric mainsgear/control board that has jumpers to sequence the gear & control retract speed.
I have lots of servos NIB so I'll be able to keep busy for a while. (until I can scrath up the $$$$ for a Saito 450R3 to be run on CDI firing off methanol)
I waited too long to call the local R/C hobby shop/convenience store/take out pizza joint & the R/C guy was gone for the day.
Anyway I'll be ordering the TF GS FW190A & the ELECRIC tailwheel retract tomorrow afternoon.
He's ordering from Tower, my price, $699 including shipping/
About the electric retract TW. I talked to Robart about this & even had them send me pictures. The electric TW retract, TH part # LXCKGH is exactly the same mechanically as the spec'ed manual t/w, it just has the jackscrew mounted to it.
As it is assembled, the electric TW will not fit into the cramped tail section, but the jackscrew can be removed & mounted forward just like a servo. The same type of linkage that would be used for a servo could be used W/the jackscrew provided the mounts could be fabricated.
That's what I am doing for the t/w.
So anyway the airframe & t/w retracts are paid for. Next $$$ outlay is the electric mainsgear/control board that has jumpers to sequence the gear & control retract speed.
I have lots of servos NIB so I'll be able to keep busy for a while. (until I can scrath up the $$$$ for a Saito 450R3 to be run on CDI firing off methanol)
#1030
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
I have been concerned about the thin plastic canopy that T/F has used on top of this plane. I was hoping it would be as thick as the Mustangs had.
Reading that people are breaking the gun hood in front of the canopy I have decided to mount switches and air fill vales outside so I don't have to mess with this hood.
Even in my shop I have had trouble removeing this hood. Not something I would want to do with a spinning prop near by.
On the underside of the canopy I ran a 1/8 stiff carbon fiber rod the length of the rear part and over that, a strip of fibergalss to keep it from poping off. It will not be visible.
As this will be my weekend flyer I know how crazy it gets at the flying field putting on the wing and screwing it down while upside down.
I don't want to kink this thin plastic and have to replace it right away.
Reading that people are breaking the gun hood in front of the canopy I have decided to mount switches and air fill vales outside so I don't have to mess with this hood.
Even in my shop I have had trouble removeing this hood. Not something I would want to do with a spinning prop near by.
On the underside of the canopy I ran a 1/8 stiff carbon fiber rod the length of the rear part and over that, a strip of fibergalss to keep it from poping off. It will not be visible.
As this will be my weekend flyer I know how crazy it gets at the flying field putting on the wing and screwing it down while upside down.
I don't want to kink this thin plastic and have to replace it right away.
#1035
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: MX240
I have been concerned about the thin plastic canopy that T/F has used on top of this plane. I was hoping it would be as thick as the Mustangs had.
Reading that people are breaking the gun hood in front of the canopy I have decided to mount switches and air fill vales outside so I don't have to mess with this hood.
Even in my shop I have had trouble removeing this hood. Not something I would want to do with a spinning prop near by.
On the underside of the canopy I ran a 1/8 stiff carbon fiber rod the length of the rear part and over that, a strip of fibergalss to keep it from poping off. It will not be visible.
As this will be my weekend flyer I know how crazy it gets at the flying field putting on the wing and screwing it down while upside down.
I don't want to kink this thin plastic and have to replace it right away.
I have been concerned about the thin plastic canopy that T/F has used on top of this plane. I was hoping it would be as thick as the Mustangs had.
Reading that people are breaking the gun hood in front of the canopy I have decided to mount switches and air fill vales outside so I don't have to mess with this hood.
Even in my shop I have had trouble removeing this hood. Not something I would want to do with a spinning prop near by.
On the underside of the canopy I ran a 1/8 stiff carbon fiber rod the length of the rear part and over that, a strip of fibergalss to keep it from poping off. It will not be visible.
As this will be my weekend flyer I know how crazy it gets at the flying field putting on the wing and screwing it down while upside down.
I don't want to kink this thin plastic and have to replace it right away.
Also, there are several companies that sell canopies much stronger that will fit this bird...If you're interested in upgrading.
IMP sells one that will drop right on and Bob Holman (the one I used) will also fit with some modifications. I'm sure someone like you could handle it..
And if you don't want to risk damaging the canopy, PVC is real cheap. You could build a stand large enough to prevent resting your plane on the canopy.. Just a thought.
#1036
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: glazier808
Boy???
Boy???
Really?
Wow...
Casey
Moving on..
#1037
Senior Member
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: Ramstein44
Why not just glass the interior of the canopy adding strenth?
Why not just glass the interior of the canopy adding strenth?
#1042
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Chris, I wouldn’t have taken that statement personally! And it's not about me so let’s not make it that way! Personally, I'm just asking about and sharing information just like I'd expect you and anyone else with something to add to the forum to do. But since you bring it up, those that "know me", understand I’m very knowledgeable on the FW190 and those that know more than me and have something to share, I listen to. Now granted, I don't know everything but like I previously stated, a lot of the information to those that build the FW190 is common knowledge and some building techniques are as well. But again, I'm here to share and learn.
This forum (hobby) shouldn't be taken so seriously that you can't enjoy it.
This forum (hobby) shouldn't be taken so seriously that you can't enjoy it.
#1043
My Feedback: (2)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Regarding the removable top hatch, I find that I can insert a long screwdriver or allen wrench into one of the top guns and push it agains the wooden former of the top hatch to lock it in place. I think I may just pass a string/floss cord through one of the top guns and attach it to the same former to pull on it when I want to remove the top hatch. It might work!
#1044
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
ORIGINAL: Tom in Cincy
I made some additional measurements on the firewall fit for the Saito450r. It looks like moving the firewall back 1/2'' - 7/16'' will be required. I went ahead and cut the firewall out and cut the key slots back 1/2''. I then tack CA'd the wall back in,mounted the engine, and the thrust washer now protrudes 1/8''-3/16'' past the cowl. The valve covers now clear the cowl all the way around as well.
If anyone is concerned about how well the factory glue job is, don't be. It took me close to 2 hours to get it out and cut the 5 slots. My usual trick of heating up a 1'' putty knife with a propane torch and sliding it in there to melt the glue took forever. The glue does not melt, it burns!
Indeed the 450/FG84 will fit but some surgery is required.
I made some additional measurements on the firewall fit for the Saito450r. It looks like moving the firewall back 1/2'' - 7/16'' will be required. I went ahead and cut the firewall out and cut the key slots back 1/2''. I then tack CA'd the wall back in,mounted the engine, and the thrust washer now protrudes 1/8''-3/16'' past the cowl. The valve covers now clear the cowl all the way around as well.
If anyone is concerned about how well the factory glue job is, don't be. It took me close to 2 hours to get it out and cut the 5 slots. My usual trick of heating up a 1'' putty knife with a propane torch and sliding it in there to melt the glue took forever. The glue does not melt, it burns!
Indeed the 450/FG84 will fit but some surgery is required.
#1045
My Feedback: (3)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
@Ram,
Oh dont get me wrong Im not offended I just find it funny. Im not taking anything seriously nor did I intend to offend, its just banter.
Being enthusiastic about your mods so far I was curious about what your approach to the rivets was going to be. Its no big deal or secret and believe me I have many years of model making and prototyping under my belt as well.
I would rather have an intelligent conversation about scale reproduction techniques than get into a battle of words on a forum.
I think at the scale we are working with it makes more sense to paint a tint over the final paint to imply a shadow from an indentation than go through the trouble of making physical depressions. This way you can use a paint mask with an accurate scale size and accurate scale pattern. With an airbrush you can model the rivets darker and lighter for effect. Overall weathering would add accents to the rivets as well. The final appearance would be very convincing from a few feet away.
Oh dont get me wrong Im not offended I just find it funny. Im not taking anything seriously nor did I intend to offend, its just banter.
Being enthusiastic about your mods so far I was curious about what your approach to the rivets was going to be. Its no big deal or secret and believe me I have many years of model making and prototyping under my belt as well.
I would rather have an intelligent conversation about scale reproduction techniques than get into a battle of words on a forum.
I think at the scale we are working with it makes more sense to paint a tint over the final paint to imply a shadow from an indentation than go through the trouble of making physical depressions. This way you can use a paint mask with an accurate scale size and accurate scale pattern. With an airbrush you can model the rivets darker and lighter for effect. Overall weathering would add accents to the rivets as well. The final appearance would be very convincing from a few feet away.
#1046
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
I guess when it comes to the rivets, it's really a “to each his own" approach as I personally like burning them in better than drawing or airbrushing them on. Airbrushing them on for me at least, seems to be more work than the application I've gone with. Personally, I like the look of indented rivets better especially when I look at my sist, holman and Platt with them. Sist did their kit as accurate as possible and what made since to them and most others was to make the indentations. Scale enthusiast and to my knowledge, even top gun builders chose to burn flush rivets into their planes. So this is why I went this route giving them a better look (even though not burnt in) but again; to each his own.
Your picture doesn’t give a good reference to the detail of the rivets from that angel, see if you can find a good side shot like from an Aerodetail reference. I’ll add a picture from mine later..
Your picture doesn’t give a good reference to the detail of the rivets from that angel, see if you can find a good side shot like from an Aerodetail reference. I’ll add a picture from mine later..
#1047
My Feedback: (2)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Ram, I have to agree with you about rivets. My SisT looks so good because of the way the rivets were done. The FW190 was a very "mechanical" looking plane. Meaning its assembled from metal and it shows. I wish I could figure out a way to indent into glassed wood to get the same effect. Burning rivets works ok but it's still only close ya know.
By the way, what engine do you have on your Sis and have you ever flown it?
By the way, what engine do you have on your Sis and have you ever flown it?
#1048
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Hey BobH
I agree. That was the main reason I purchased the SIST. I have a G62 on it now with the special muffler from Sist. I tried a DA 50 but I didn’t like the power. I've about 15 or so flights but mainly just admire it, It's what I base all my others off of.. I just got the approval (the wife) to purchase his big brother here soon. They don't have an icon to show my excitement....Costing $3500 kit, it'll be one for the books I’m sure. I'll admire it for a year or so before I maiden it..lol
Getting the rivits into glass or wood takes a lot of work and swearing[:'(]. I punched many holes into mine trying to get that desired effect. A heavy coat of resin on top of the glass and a lot of primer works best for me but then you add a lot of weight.
I agree. That was the main reason I purchased the SIST. I have a G62 on it now with the special muffler from Sist. I tried a DA 50 but I didn’t like the power. I've about 15 or so flights but mainly just admire it, It's what I base all my others off of.. I just got the approval (the wife) to purchase his big brother here soon. They don't have an icon to show my excitement....Costing $3500 kit, it'll be one for the books I’m sure. I'll admire it for a year or so before I maiden it..lol
Getting the rivits into glass or wood takes a lot of work and swearing[:'(]. I punched many holes into mine trying to get that desired effect. A heavy coat of resin on top of the glass and a lot of primer works best for me but then you add a lot of weight.
#1049
My Feedback: (2)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Interesting about the G62. Evan Q has one in his as well. I have a Saito 300 that hasnt been run yet I worry about the power! or lack there of?
I have a bud near Baltimore who has the 1/4 Sis. I have yet to see it but I shall in the near future. Its gotta be wonneful.. albeit expensive! lol
Hey we aint gonna live for ever.. (well cept maybe me! lol)
I have a bud near Baltimore who has the 1/4 Sis. I have yet to see it but I shall in the near future. Its gotta be wonneful.. albeit expensive! lol
Hey we aint gonna live for ever.. (well cept maybe me! lol)
#1050
My Feedback: (157)
RE: TF FW190 GIANT ARF
Here are the rivets on my TF with that new application. I'll add another coat of primer to make them flush, remove the paint from the rivets and paint. Personally I think it's a lot of work when I could've just burnt them in but either way, its a lot of work. Measuring and burning or this method.