pandissix

My Feedback: (134)

Well a 5 cent zip tie. Two minutes of time makes it work on a 5k jet. Just saying

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

You're correct; it doesn't bother me especially since I went a more scale route by not using the electric tail retract. And mine aren't slack retracted or in the down position as the method with the springs are proven, especially with pull pull or retracting tail wheels setups; which many are accustomed to.

I've used this method in every FW190 I've built and there are many.

I also don't think that TF intended or expected the concept of a jack screw system when they designed the kit and space was considered. But again.. Interesting!

Well, if it works for you, then that's all that matters but I don't expect to see any repeats of that method. It will be unique!

SrTelemaster150

Well I was just going the way the TF plans specified as far as the pull/pull. I'm not sure the springs would work on the Robart TW. Wouldn't the TW still want to turn in the retracted position? This is the 1st retractable TW I've dealt with so the slack pull/pull cables are a new issue to me.

The jackscrew doesn't change anything other than the fact that a jackscrew is substituted for the servo. In fact, it allows the starboard elevator servo to be moved closer to center when the TW retract servo is eliminted. The jackscrew does impinge on the area where the Rx is supposed to be mounted.

In your case, the servo (or alternate TW actuator) is eliminated completely.

Not enough room in this application for the zip tie trick although it is pretty slick solution for slack cables.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

If you're not able to mix the retract to prevent movement while retracted with your transmitter, the springs will compensate, preventing the wheel from traveling anymore then the fuse will allow.

SrTelemaster150

I'll give springs a try. I take it they are not very stiff if they allow the fuse to restrain the movement.

Are the return springs on the TW eliminated then?

What sort of connector are you using on your steering servo arms.

I've used similar set screw connectors in the past, (on .40 sized aircraft) but they only had a plastic disc on the back for a retainer. I don't think that would suffice in this application.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Obviously the springs would need to be strong enough and retain tension for them to work effectively for steering. I’ve tinkered with this setup and found that the pictured springs work the best for my applications. You can find them at Lowes or possibly, your local hardware. I can’t comment on the robart retract themselves as I‘ve never used them but I don’t see why this wouldn’t work as for the steering.

My steering servo has EZ connectors and 2-56th rods modified as seen. This modifications allows me to adjust the tension without having to remove the unit like clevises would.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Ramstein44;

When you use Springs on the Retract Pull Pull Wires like you have shown, any concern or problem with the resistance or strength of the Springs with either a Retract Servo or Air Cylinder not being able to extend the Gear because of too much Spring Resistance?

Another question may arise if the Springs have too much Resitance for the Robart Actulator/Jackscrew to work properely, from what I understand, the Actulator/Jackscrew Unit stops when it detects resistance much like when the gears reaches full extension/retraction, I'm wondering if too much Spring Resistance will also trigger the Actulator/Jackscrew to shut off before it's supposed to?

You stated that you don't use the Robart Tail gear, what one are you using, any picture available?

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

The concern was keeping the cables tightened and Im sure there are springs strong enough to accomplish this for his setup. He could use simple ball point pen springs.. But In doing so with a stronger spring, it's possible that some of your statements would be a concern with the electric retract unit. I wouldn’t know as I stated having no experience with the robart gear as I used Sierras in mine and I’ve posted pictures in this forum multiple times. IMO, all these efforts and modifications are too much of a pain, especially when dealing with electronic retracts which I thought were designed to simplify your installation.

I personally would’ve done like in my previous statements and made accommodations to the servo to prevent the possible binding (which I’ve never seen). IMO, this whole setup is way too complicated just to achieve a slower speed and clearance.

Isn’t the Actuator/Jackscrew just a replacement for a servo? Wouldn’t a simple servo have the same capabilities with fewer complications? All this for an area that would require binoculars to see working..

I agree with N8 and several others that If I were going to spend that extra on the electric retracts, I would've left it alone.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

The hardware store has a ton of different springs as you will find out. This is no different than what we normally do with a non retracting tailwheel. They pretty much all have springs. This acts as a servo saver or protects a solid linkage from damage when doinked in transit etc. Look at most Extra 300, IMAC aerobats. They all have springs on the tailwheel. The differnce here is that they are at the servo, and not the wheel itself.
Ram's setup looks good and easy to manage. Something important when having to make adjustments in the field etc. This is one of the few times an EZ connecter is a safe termination. Notice the z-bends Ram used elsewhere.

SrTelemaster150

Other than fabricating the guide & shoe, the actuator is no more complicated or more of a clearance concern than the servo.

The whole slack cable issue would still be present as TF designed the system.

As far as complicated, the electric retract elimnate weight in the tail & (even with the actuator) is far less complicated than pneumatics that will require a servo, valve, flow controls, & plumbing that will be far more complicated than a few servo wire extensions.

SrTelemaster150

After considering this issue, I called Robart. They said it "could" be an issue & recommended to "try it and see". Even W/the actuator mounted on the TW assembly it would have the same concerns.

After thinking about it I have decided to just use weak srings to pull the slack rearward. That will accomplish keeping the cables taut where they are attached to the servo & more importatntly keep them aligned. The slack will just be in the cables that are away from anything that would catch on them & it will not apply any tension agaist the actuator.

It will be much simpler & work better than the shields by eliminatimg the problem in the 1st place.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

I disagree. . My air system installation took les than 20 minutes on the fuse and 10 on the wings. The hardest part was installing the servo for the valve. With electric setup, you're still running cables which no different. Its all about knowing what you're doing and having a plan.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Well gents. I received my decals in typical Iflytailies speed. Thanks for that, however, a lot the decals are the wrong sizes and some look like they’re more for a ¼ scale plane as where others are definitely too small!

Fighteraces did these decals for me custom to their Sist D9, which is 1/5th scale and I’ve used them on my sist, Platt and ESM D9.

On the left are Fighteraces.co.uk and right are Iflytailies.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Wow, sorry to hear that Ram. Mine were pretty much the same. I could only use a few of the decals on all of the sheets provided for the 109 as well. Some were close to 1/3 scale I think. I mentioned it to him in this thread but got no reply.

Casey

SrTelemaster150

I'm not talking installation time, although if the shoe/guide didn't have to be designed fabricated there would little if any difference there when someone experienced W/the Fw 190 A airframe is doing the installation.

I'm talking about component complication.

As a (prematurely) retired journeyman pipe fitter, steam fitter W/over 20 years experience, I think I might know a little about pneumatics.

The systems are about the same as far as complexity when the gear themselves & the cylinder/actuators are concerned. Although the cylinders have the edge over the actuators for simplicity. The BIG difference comes in the number of other mechanical componentas/connections are considered.

In addition to the aformentioned gear & actuators, the only additional mechanical components in the electrics is the shoe/guide & the pushrod.

The pneumatic system has a control valve which in itself has a spool & flow controls. There is also a servo so the pneumatic system is just a bit more complicated than the electric sytem. Now we have to utilize an air tank as well as the support system to fill it. Not to mention numerous points were hoses are (meachanically) connected that are prone to leakage.

The electric sytem only has the electrical connections which are not prone to leakage & if they are installed correctly, there is little chance for a disconnect.

Pneumatics are old, complicated & malfunction prone technology & electrics are the future of RC retract technology.

Besides, didn't the Fw 190 A utilize electric retract & control surface actuation? No hydraulics that I am aware of, & certainly no pneumatics..

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

SrTelemaster150, no one is questioning you knowledge because your methods speak for themselves, I'm not a 6th grader, I've been doing this long enough to know what I'm talking about also..lol and my methods prove it.

At this point, I’m going to consider our conversation resolved as you’re going into a different realm and I feel that you were helped as best as anyone could.

Not like it matters but, as an electronics engineer for almost 20 years and holding a masters in the field to include a bachelors in electronics communications management, I can tell you that all things electronic will fail! It's just a matter of time. Good old pneumatics has proven to be very reliable and that’s why most stick with what they can trust. All I can say is that your methods are real special to say the least and I hope it works out for you in the end. Good luck.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Me too. I was hoping to have a cheaper way to go on decals but It looks like I'll stay with Fighteraces for them. I'm sending these back in the morning[&o]

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Ram, maybe you know or maybe not.. but there are Decals and markings for the FW190 available from ProMark. They are 1/5, and fuel proof dry transfers.

I have them on my Sis-t and they are good.. very good in fact.. fyi

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

I didn't. Do they have 1/4 scale?

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Yes. they have both sizes.

SU-31 flyer

As for keeping pull pull wires tight I use a plastic cup hook and a rubber band around the wire and to the cup hook. Simple.

SrTelemaster150

Now that sounds like a real simple solution.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Being that I am a sixth grader,none of this makes sense to me! lol

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Lmao..

SrTelemaster150

Mocked up some rubber bands & it works great.

I need to get to the hardware store & get some small "S" hooks & cup hooks.