TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#3078
Jimmy, I have a thread on my engine here, in case you are interested;
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/....asp?TID=22117
Last edited by kwik; 07-14-2014 at 01:44 PM.
#3079
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (8)
+1
Probably because I don't know what a "dip stick" is anyway.
hehe.
Who knows, I might order the parts from Ray English this winther for a better gasoline distribution myself, we will see? I am sure he is an excellent engine man.
But saying that it is either doing the mods, or not buying the FG-84 is a bit over the top. Mine is running just fine, but I still need to run it perhaps
15 minutes on full throttle on the ground, just to check cooling.
Probably because I don't know what a "dip stick" is anyway.
hehe.
Who knows, I might order the parts from Ray English this winther for a better gasoline distribution myself, we will see? I am sure he is an excellent engine man.
But saying that it is either doing the mods, or not buying the FG-84 is a bit over the top. Mine is running just fine, but I still need to run it perhaps
15 minutes on full throttle on the ground, just to check cooling.
#3080
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (8)
Absolutely no hard feelings.
Jimmy, I have a thread on my engine here, in case you are interested;
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/....asp?TID=22117
Jimmy, I have a thread on my engine here, in case you are interested;
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/....asp?TID=22117
Thanks I will take a look....thats a great place for scale detail
#3081
My Feedback: (81)
How is everyone doing with the electric retracts so far?
What I have learned from all these threads on retracts.
1.Voltage, Voltage, Voltage, the sweet spot seems to be 7.4 2S 25C 800-2000mah
2.Upgrade tires, get rid of foamy's
3.Toe Out the wheels 2 to 3 degrees
4.Make sure Robart control box is on correct settings are plugged in with correct polarity. Failure to do this causes issues?
Did I miss anything???
What I have learned from all these threads on retracts.
1.Voltage, Voltage, Voltage, the sweet spot seems to be 7.4 2S 25C 800-2000mah
2.Upgrade tires, get rid of foamy's
3.Toe Out the wheels 2 to 3 degrees
4.Make sure Robart control box is on correct settings are plugged in with correct polarity. Failure to do this causes issues?
Did I miss anything???
#3082
My Feedback: (2)
How is everyone doing with the electric retracts so far?
What I have learned from all these threads on retracts.
1.Voltage, Voltage, Voltage, the sweet spot seems to be 7.4 2S 25C 800-2000mah
2.Upgrade tires, get rid of foamy's
3.Toe Out the wheels 2 to 3 degrees
4.Make sure Robart control box is on correct settings are plugged in with correct polarity. Failure to do this causes issues?
Did I miss anything???
What I have learned from all these threads on retracts.
1.Voltage, Voltage, Voltage, the sweet spot seems to be 7.4 2S 25C 800-2000mah
2.Upgrade tires, get rid of foamy's
3.Toe Out the wheels 2 to 3 degrees
4.Make sure Robart control box is on correct settings are plugged in with correct polarity. Failure to do this causes issues?
Did I miss anything???
I was using the Williams Bros 14600 wheels but they flatten out too much and on landing I had two near nose-overs due to friction against the pavement. The plane does not even roll easily when I push it. I have gone back to the foamies until I find something else. Folks have recommended the 12200 here so maybe I will try those.
I have tried toe-out but I can't say it did much for me. I found that putting the tailwheel on a separate independent channel and reducing travel will dramatically improve ground handling. I may add some more toe-out as well. My P-51 and P-47 have much better ground handling than this plane.
#3083
My Feedback: (1)
I use the 5" Dubro treaded lightweight wheels. They are inexpensive, durable, and fit fine. They don't look as scale as some of the skinny Williams bros. wheels, but they work just fine. A bit smaller diameter than the stock (5.25") but that gives you a bit more clearance on the wheel wells that can cause less problems. Here's a photo of them on my plane. If you painted them black and added some detailing they would look more scale.
#3086
My Feedback: (2)
I use the 5" Dubro treaded lightweight wheels. They are inexpensive, durable, and fit fine. They don't look as scale as some of the skinny Williams bros. wheels, but they work just fine. A bit smaller diameter than the stock (5.25") but that gives you a bit more clearance on the wheel wells that can cause less problems. Here's a photo of them on my plane. If you painted them black and added some detailing they would look more scale.
#3087
My Feedback: (29)
I am quite happy with the Robart electrics - they have worked quite well so far - 2S Lipo 3600. I am using the high capacity battery since I am also driving my auto start off the same 2 cell.
I was using the Williams Bros 14600 wheels but they flatten out too much and on landing I had two near nose-overs due to friction against the pavement. The plane does not even roll easily when I push it. I have gone back to the foamies until I find something else. Folks have recommended the 12200 here so maybe I will try those.
I have tried toe-out but I can't say it did much for me. I found that putting the tailwheel on a separate independent channel and reducing travel will dramatically improve ground handling. I may add some more toe-out as well. My P-51 and P-47 have much better ground handling than this plane.
I was using the Williams Bros 14600 wheels but they flatten out too much and on landing I had two near nose-overs due to friction against the pavement. The plane does not even roll easily when I push it. I have gone back to the foamies until I find something else. Folks have recommended the 12200 here so maybe I will try those.
I have tried toe-out but I can't say it did much for me. I found that putting the tailwheel on a separate independent channel and reducing travel will dramatically improve ground handling. I may add some more toe-out as well. My P-51 and P-47 have much better ground handling than this plane.
JG
#3089
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Either way, let us know how you made out filling them with foam, how you did it, what you used, etc; I'm still building my FW190 but I thought that the Wheels/Tires were a bit too soft/squishy; others are using these Williams Bros Wheels, how are you finding them?
Thanks, Doug.
#3093
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JGrc
Have you tried filling the tires with foam?l
JG
"Hi, this is a good idea. I had this idea before but my guess was that the tires would be tough to take off. I will try it now though since you brought it up. Thanks! "
I found something interesting on the Williams Bros web site, found a data sheet that indicated that the 14500/14600 wheels have foam inserts, whereas the 12200 does not.
http://www.williamsbrothersmodelprod...om/rcinfo.html
#3095
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (8)
Here is what is cool about electric starters IMO ....yer airborne flying about before the spectators and you kill the engine and holler " DEAD STICK!!" Then as you make final and cross the threshold, you hit the starter and zoom away leaving the spectators slack jawed in awe. Otherwise, unless you have a crappy engine that's hard to start, I think it would be a pain in the hiney Bo
#3096
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Williams Bros Wheels & Foam Insert Update
I talked to the owner of William Bros Products 'Dan Brett' who took over the company in 2005; I asked him about the wheels we were using and how some found them too soft, flattening out on landing, etc.
He said depending on how old they were, 1 of 3 three things may be going on; 1) No Foam Inserts; or 2) Prior to 2007, softer low density Foam was used; or 3) After 2007 Stiffer high density foam was used.
The Foam currently being used since 2007, is a dense Closed Cell Backer Rod/Cord filling the tire cavity completly with the right sized diameter Foam Cord.
Dan said to give him a call (512) 846-1243; if the Wheels are not working out, he would like to have a look at them, see if they have foam or the softer foam, etc and work out a replacement if they were not up to current standard.
As far as trying to fill the Tires with Foam, Dan said the Wheel Halves are Glued together and accessing the tires is not possible without breaking the wheels
He said depending on how old they were, 1 of 3 three things may be going on; 1) No Foam Inserts; or 2) Prior to 2007, softer low density Foam was used; or 3) After 2007 Stiffer high density foam was used.
The Foam currently being used since 2007, is a dense Closed Cell Backer Rod/Cord filling the tire cavity completly with the right sized diameter Foam Cord.
Dan said to give him a call (512) 846-1243; if the Wheels are not working out, he would like to have a look at them, see if they have foam or the softer foam, etc and work out a replacement if they were not up to current standard.
As far as trying to fill the Tires with Foam, Dan said the Wheel Halves are Glued together and accessing the tires is not possible without breaking the wheels
#3097
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ladera Ranch, CA
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is what is cool about electric starters IMO ....yer airborne flying about before the spectators and you kill the engine and holler " DEAD STICK!!" Then as you make final and cross the threshold, you hit the starter and zoom away leaving the spectators slack jawed in awe. Otherwise, unless you have a crappy engine that's hard to start, I think it would be a pain in the hiney Bo
#3098
I have the 12200 now.
They are NOT the conical type. 12200 is the round type, looks very much like the Fw 190 type.
I like them a LOT.
Putting on the 12200 wheels trigged two belly landings; One wheel didnt want to deploy.
Reason; The wheels were pushing against the bottom of the wheel well. That makes it difficult to "unlock" when you want them "out".
So I had to shims the mountings inner part, to avoid the wheels touching the bottom of the wheel wells.
Last edited by kwik; 07-19-2014 at 01:24 AM.
#3099
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kwik;
I still get it confused, I have the same Wheels as you do for my FW190; I havn't flown mine yet, still building mine, yeah it takes me forever, I get sidetracked often with other projects.
However, I do have the Wing completed and the gear extends and retracts without any problems getting stuck in the retracted position, mind you thats on the work bench and not in the air; prior to you shimming the mounts, did your gear work without any problems on the bench as well like mine, but got stuck when the plane was in the air? are you using electric or pnuematic retracts?
I still get it confused, I have the same Wheels as you do for my FW190; I havn't flown mine yet, still building mine, yeah it takes me forever, I get sidetracked often with other projects.
However, I do have the Wing completed and the gear extends and retracts without any problems getting stuck in the retracted position, mind you thats on the work bench and not in the air; prior to you shimming the mounts, did your gear work without any problems on the bench as well like mine, but got stuck when the plane was in the air? are you using electric or pnuematic retracts?
Last edited by dasintex; 07-19-2014 at 06:03 AM.
#3100
My Feedback: (45)
I don't know the number of mine any more, but they are the conical shaped ones. I've had no problems with flattening out. As for the electric starter, while it would be cool to shut down and restart in mid air, I like mine just for the fact that I don't have to flip anymore. You almost always need nose weight in a warbird anyway so why not make it useful. I'm installing one now in my 30cc Waco and will be using one on my H9 corsair when it shows up.