TF FW190 GIANT ARF
07-19-2014, 06:08 AM
#3101
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Mpizpilot;
Thanks for the reply/clarification, I think the model numbers are as follows:
12200 Balloon Tires Non-Conical
14500 Conical Tires
14600 Balloon Tires, P-40 Style Smooth Hub, with removeable Hub disc/cap
All 5.25" dia
Thanks for the reply/clarification, I think the model numbers are as follows:
12200 Balloon Tires Non-Conical
14500 Conical Tires
14600 Balloon Tires, P-40 Style Smooth Hub, with removeable Hub disc/cap
All 5.25" dia
07-19-2014, 11:39 AM
#3102
Kwik;
I still get it confused, I have the same Wheels as you do for my FW190; I havn't flown mine yet, still building mine, yeah it takes me forever, I get sidetracked often with other projects.
However, I do have the Wing completed and the gear extends and retracts without any problems getting stuck in the retracted position, mind you thats on the work bench and not in the air; prior to you shimming the mounts, did your gear work without any problems on the bench as well like mine, but got stuck when the plane was in the air? are you using electric or pnuematic retracts?
I still get it confused, I have the same Wheels as you do for my FW190; I havn't flown mine yet, still building mine, yeah it takes me forever, I get sidetracked often with other projects.
However, I do have the Wing completed and the gear extends and retracts without any problems getting stuck in the retracted position, mind you thats on the work bench and not in the air; prior to you shimming the mounts, did your gear work without any problems on the bench as well like mine, but got stuck when the plane was in the air? are you using electric or pnuematic retracts?
They got stuck on the ground and in the air. If they arent stuck on the ground, you are probably okay!
I have the pneumatic retract; Extremely happy with them. A big thanks to Robart for producing such nice items for us modellers.
Joe, do you hear me?
The tolerances in a production process is what makes or breaks the quality of a product.
It doesnt take much variance in cutting, gluing the stuff together, to get something that touches the bottom of the wheel well, or not..........
Last edited by kwik; 07-19-2014 at 11:51 AM.
07-20-2014, 05:40 AM
#3103
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Being confused isn't good!!!!
They got stuck on the ground and in the air. If they arent stuck on the ground, you are probably okay!
I have the pneumatic retract; Extremely happy with them. A big thanks to Robart for producing such nice items for us modellers.
Joe, do you hear me?
The tolerances in a production process is what makes or breaks the quality of a product.
It doesnt take much variance in cutting, gluing the stuff together, to get something that touches the bottom of the wheel well, or not..........
They got stuck on the ground and in the air. If they arent stuck on the ground, you are probably okay!
I have the pneumatic retract; Extremely happy with them. A big thanks to Robart for producing such nice items for us modellers.
Joe, do you hear me?
The tolerances in a production process is what makes or breaks the quality of a product.
It doesnt take much variance in cutting, gluing the stuff together, to get something that touches the bottom of the wheel well, or not..........
Thanks for the reply, I couldn't agree more with you on the production variances; I have a TF GS P-40 that I fitted the P-40 Style Williams Wheels on, the original Wheels were 5" and the Williams are 5.25"; not a problem on one side, retracted and extended no problem; the other side nothing but problems, wouldn't lock in the retracted position, got hung up easily, etc; I actually had to move the Wheel Well over about 0.25" to make it work.
07-20-2014, 05:52 PM
#3104
Hey Kwik I have the same gear and do like them but I have to admitt that they need a cycle or two before first flight if the day. Two guys I fly with with the same setup have to do the same....no issue otherwise. Have you experienced any if this?
07-20-2014, 11:35 PM
#3105
A cycle or two? No, I dont have that problem.
Why? Is it leaking otherwise? If so, perhaps inject some silicone spray into the system ?
07-21-2014, 06:08 PM
#3106
Yeah Kwik on the first cycle of the day, the gear go up but not completely and then the air bypasses the O ring until all the air blows out of the tank I just push them the rest of the way up and they seal up then I extend them. They are fine after that... I usually do a second cycle to be sure and they are fine the rest of the day. Two guys have the same problem same gear same plane. There is plenty of lube in the cylinders so I just check em every time before the first flight. no belly landings and about 40 flights knock on wood
Last edited by n8622t; 07-21-2014 at 06:11 PM.
07-21-2014, 09:47 PM
#3107
Hey n8 may I ask what kind or be and of lube you are using in your air systems? I was thinking of using silicone spray in mine...I have a couple of planes I just pulled from storage and it wouldn't hurt I'm sure.
thanks,
Casey
EDIT: just saw that kwik is using silicone spray as well...any particular brand? I can't remember what I have at the shop atm
thanks,
Casey
EDIT: just saw that kwik is using silicone spray as well...any particular brand? I can't remember what I have at the shop atm
Last edited by glazier808; 07-21-2014 at 09:53 PM.
07-22-2014, 12:01 AM
#3108
No particular brand for me, no. Just a random buying in a gas station.
Jimmy, I do have the same problem with the gear in my Vailly 190. Especially if its been in storage for a while.
But It has Sierra gear, and if I fill it up, you can see it is leaking. Cycling a couple of times, and the problem is gone.
Never opened up and had a look inside the cylinders. Maybe a gremlin lives there.
Jimmy, I do have the same problem with the gear in my Vailly 190. Especially if its been in storage for a while.
But It has Sierra gear, and if I fill it up, you can see it is leaking. Cycling a couple of times, and the problem is gone.
Never opened up and had a look inside the cylinders. Maybe a gremlin lives there.
Last edited by kwik; 07-22-2014 at 12:05 AM.
07-22-2014, 12:45 PM
#3109
I operated on the Sierra gear today. It seems the explanation is as follows;
The structure has become a bit bendt (landing accident ).
It seems there is some force on the piston rod when in extended position. The piston rod can rotate a bit.
There doesnt take much force "sideways" for air to leak out along the piston rod. Some bending made the problem go way, in this case, anyway.
The structure has become a bit bendt (landing accident ).
It seems there is some force on the piston rod when in extended position. The piston rod can rotate a bit.
There doesnt take much force "sideways" for air to leak out along the piston rod. Some bending made the problem go way, in this case, anyway.
07-23-2014, 11:17 PM
#3114
Yeah I've looked at that oil Todd ...can't go wrong with BVM Robarts come from the factory with white lithium and that's what they recommend. It's only the 190 gear that I have seen this issue. If the problem ever gets worse I'll replace the o rings and try the BVM oil
07-24-2014, 08:59 PM
#3116
Lifer my only thinking on that would be what may come outta the cylinder into the air lines. Lithium is a thicker base since it is grease and the marvels will probably thin it out enough that you could have a coat if oil over the entire air system... Probably wouldn't hurt anything but it's pretty easy to pull the piston and wipe the oil out first
07-25-2014, 12:09 PM
#3117
Petroleum based oils will break down plastic parts so the best lube to use is silicone oil. Simply buy a small bottle of RC car shock oil and put some drops into the air cylinders and valve. Thats it and it migrates around keeping things lubed.
Check part clearances and apply white lithium grease on metal parts only.
Check part clearances and apply white lithium grease on metal parts only.
07-25-2014, 01:28 PM
#3118
A rattle can with silicone spray is golden. Spray it into the syetme so that it migrates all over the place. Suddenly it holds the air for days.
If course the small Robart nuts is important on every connection. The result is an air tight systems for many days.
If course the small Robart nuts is important on every connection. The result is an air tight systems for many days.
07-25-2014, 02:19 PM
#3119
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Kwik... I have that o-ring lube from BVM... when I put it the retract cylinders and valve do I have to evacuate the excess fluid? I thought having fluid in an air system was bad...
07-25-2014, 02:57 PM
#3121
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07-25-2014, 05:16 PM
#3122
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PLUS++++ on the RC Car Shock Oil, a few drops in the airlines and away you go, I use it on all my pnuematic retracts, I use 20WT, Team Associated Shock Fluid #5421
