Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Bear Bow,

can you give me a hint where you ut the saito ignition? I see you are going with the air retracts too and I am really struggling to find somewhere to put that box...

thanks,
Rev

SrTelemaster150

If you are referring to the electric retract control box, I velcroed mine to the wing right next to where the servo leads exit the wing.

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

thanks sirtele, but i am referring to the saito ignition box

Loco3D

Managed to fit the electric tail wheel inside the fuse! - what a job, lots of sanding but it goes in nicely, thanks!

Does anybody know where can I get cam blocks for upgrading the main electric retracts from Robart ?
Can't find them in their site..

BearBow

Call Down & Locked or better yet, the real thing to do is send them to D&L and have them fix/upgrade them for something like $50-$100...well worth it....

BearBow

We put it right behind the Firewall at the 9 O'clock position, then fed the wires through the holes cut for cooling.

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Bearbow,

Thanks. Went a similar way last night and placed it between tank and fuse wall.

Looks like I am completing the build soon. Just in time for the first snow...

Rev

zadeda

Привет! Спасибо всем, кто поделился информацией на этом форуме! Мой вопрос о консолей крыла. Это является обязательным для консоли держаться вместе между собой? Или есть другие пути позволяющий оперировать без вставки? Простите за мой английский, я использую программу перевода.

steph69

fw-190

Loco3D

Just found out that my main robart electrics have 2 pins and square cam block so will get a second cam block and install it to have the two pins locking instead. ;-)

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Zadeda, looks like the translation did not work. Google tells me you are asking if it is possible to keep the wings apart.

I have been thinking about that too but in the end you would have to remove the planking off on one side and install a proper wing tube. It is not worth the work.

Rev

zadeda

I will use the motor 60 CC. Already I cut out the channel of cooling in the fayervol.

zadeda

[QUOTE = Loco3D; 11903788] Только что узнал, что мои основные ROBART электрика есть 2 флажки и квадрат камерой блок так получит второй кулачковый блок и установить его, чтобы иметь два контакта блокировки вместо. ; -) [/ QUOTE] You can tell about new racks in more detail? There is a detailed photo?

Loco3D

Has anybody come out with a better system for the removable hatch ?, it seems very flimsy and a pain to remove while at the field.
Thinking of cutting the bottom wood hooks and use some hinges on the top as a more scale look and more functional ??? - using magnets instead of those hooks, will this hold it in place ??

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I could see that was going to be a pain in the bu-t to remove for the switches and air and that is the reason I mounted all that stuff on the side like my other planes.
Two years old and haven't removed the top yet. It's call convenience!

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

Believe me when I say that I'm not trying to be argumentative...please... but I thought the sliding hatch was the coolest thing about the ARF... once you file the "hooks" thickness and remove a shave from the slots, I can remove that cover with one hand... I like that it's all concealed and people really dig that feature...

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Does anyone know if there is any documentation on a U.S. (captured) scheme on one of these birds?

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

hey all.. I wrecked my 3rd set of gear covers... I saw a post awhile back where one of you had attached the lower portion of the cover to the scissor so that it would articulate with the wheel... can someone tell me which post it is or how they accomplished that?

thanks a bunch!

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Frank;

Do what I did, cut off about 1/2" off the bottom of the door; still looks good and normal and gives you more clearance to the ground; when I cut mine, I filled the hollow areas which are exposed when you cut the bottom off, with balsa and epoxy.

Doug.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

That was exactly what I did for Brad's plane. Came out perfect.

AV8ATOR

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Shaun,

Yes, here is a few 144451-11104.jpg. Carlos

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Frank, here are some Photos showing you how mine look with the shortened Gear Doors

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

thanks, guys.. the new set arrives tomorrow.. I'll cut'em up for Saturdays event...

thanks

Shaun Evans

Av8ator,

Thanks! Now I might consider one! You guys who are flying these: Nobody is having problems with the gear mounts? It seems like weak gear mounts is one of the unfortunate characteristics of TF ARF's. With legs this long, that's a lot of leverage against the mount. Any issues? How about with the struts themselves? TIA.

Nordicz

My Feedback: (7)

Yellow,

I flew mine all season I had some small issues with the blocks on two occasions what I ended up doing is dowel pinning the blocks to the former and had no issues the rest of the year. The two landings that caused me to notice the separation were moderately rough. But the strut compressed fully and allowed all that energy to transfer. Since doweling the blocks and re-epoxying I haven't had an issue. I have a picture on Page 116 in this forum showing the separation and pinning it. My struts have held up well but through this forum you will find others who have had issues with the robart struts.

Z