TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#3376
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Location: Ladera Ranch, CA
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I think that all the gear saddles have issues due to the huge lateral loads.. not so much the straight taxiing... I will say that once I put 1/4 blocks w/ epoxy under the saddle I haven't had issues. Make sure you have a slight toe-out with the wing level or else it'll track like crap with the tail down..
just my $0.02
just my $0.02
#3377
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Hey all,
I have some questions concerning this project i've almost finished mine but i got some pb with the platine spinner for insert on the fg84-r3 did someone can tell how i can proced for put well the platine spinner on this engine? or did i should order another spinner ?
And is what you have strengthened the firewall with the fg84-r3? and how because you have a huge hole in it must surely weaken the firewall right? the engine is heavy.
Can someone tell me for the first run of this engine some advise or something did i need run with starter? it's my first radial .......
Ty for your helps
I have some questions concerning this project i've almost finished mine but i got some pb with the platine spinner for insert on the fg84-r3 did someone can tell how i can proced for put well the platine spinner on this engine? or did i should order another spinner ?
And is what you have strengthened the firewall with the fg84-r3? and how because you have a huge hole in it must surely weaken the firewall right? the engine is heavy.
Can someone tell me for the first run of this engine some advise or something did i need run with starter? it's my first radial .......
Ty for your helps
#3378
Did you shorten out the firewall to accommodate the FG84 or did you just install it using the stand offs that come with ?
I wil be installing mine as soon as the Keleo ring collector comes and then think whether Im cutting the firewall and re build it or simply shave the corners to fit the ring collector and engine..
Then will run it on a test bench with a 22x12 Biela 3 blade scale prop from the beginning using 18:1 oil ratio ( castrol power1 TTS racing ). Friend of mine has one and has given some good tips that soon will be sharing once I run mine.
Also no need to do the engine modification, it runs great out of the box.
I wil be installing mine as soon as the Keleo ring collector comes and then think whether Im cutting the firewall and re build it or simply shave the corners to fit the ring collector and engine..
Then will run it on a test bench with a 22x12 Biela 3 blade scale prop from the beginning using 18:1 oil ratio ( castrol power1 TTS racing ). Friend of mine has one and has given some good tips that soon will be sharing once I run mine.
Also no need to do the engine modification, it runs great out of the box.
Last edited by Loco3D; 11-05-2014 at 11:53 AM.
#3379
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OK Loco 3D i've ordered my ring on 09 22 do you you know or someone how long it will take in general what is the delays in keleo because I have no information about it thx. i wanna break in with mufflers included of the box and replace keleo futher till i receive it ...
#3381
I ordered my ring collector almost 2 months ago and today got an email notification of shipping!!!
YEAH!!!!
yours should be soon as well.
So 30mm standoffs engine crankshaft and prop clearance is ok?
with ring collector fitted you will need to shave firewall big time or cut it.
I will strengthen it anyway with carbon fibre cloth and epoxy
YEAH!!!!
yours should be soon as well.
So 30mm standoffs engine crankshaft and prop clearance is ok?
with ring collector fitted you will need to shave firewall big time or cut it.
I will strengthen it anyway with carbon fibre cloth and epoxy
Last edited by Loco3D; 11-05-2014 at 01:05 PM.
#3382
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ok this is good news for your ring I think I can be mine for Christmas ... it would depend on the weather so I'll see if we can not change the firewall anyway because already without the ring it seems to me that with such low the giant hole in the center
#3383
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Sorry to disagree, it's not my nature, but in this case, I do. The hole in the center of the firewall has minimal effect on the strength of the mounting. The only alternative that I can come up with is to use very long standoffs and bolts. The change in strength to that approach is a magnitude difference than the hole that the manufacturer recommends. Add to that the success that is around us (two planes that I have done personally) and the lack of concern on forums, I don't see this as a reason to stop moving forward.
#3385
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Sorry to disagree, it's not my nature, but in this case, I do. The hole in the center of the firewall has minimal effect on the strength of the mounting. The only alternative that I can come up with is to use very long standoffs and bolts. The change in strength to that approach is a magnitude difference than the hole that the manufacturer recommends. Add to that the success that is around us (two planes that I have done personally) and the lack of concern on forums, I don't see this as a reason to stop moving forward.
I personally do not think it's a mistake to ask for firewalls being given that this plane was designed for a dle 55 with his specific weight
So if a fg84-r3 is brought gonna necessarily change anything about firewalls
#3390
My Feedback: (34)
I have to say as I have a top flite gaint p51, p47, p40 and now the fw190. I have seen how each arf has gotten better with the p51 being the first arf
As I will admit the cowl bolts on all the others are not my favorite part of any of these arfs.
But the cowl ring on my w190 is driving me crazy
I used 5min epoxy so it would in a few spots to tac the ring in place. After a few hours I pulled it off the plane then added more 5min all around the ring. I let it dry and I guess the ring moved and was off.
I had to use a hobbynife and a torch to lossen the ring and try again.
It looks good to go but it seems to have more of a gap in front of the removable cover than I thought there should be. But epoxy is sold now.
Anyone have a close picture of the cowl and removable cover
As I will admit the cowl bolts on all the others are not my favorite part of any of these arfs.
But the cowl ring on my w190 is driving me crazy
I used 5min epoxy so it would in a few spots to tac the ring in place. After a few hours I pulled it off the plane then added more 5min all around the ring. I let it dry and I guess the ring moved and was off.
I had to use a hobbynife and a torch to lossen the ring and try again.
It looks good to go but it seems to have more of a gap in front of the removable cover than I thought there should be. But epoxy is sold now.
Anyone have a close picture of the cowl and removable cover
#3391
Right, so I followed the advise from some people about reinforcing the Robart Electric retracts by installing a new set of cam blocks ( part number fw107A ) for the second pin to give more support for the retract.
When installing the second cam block the holes don't align properly which means :
a) To install it I need to re drill holes in the cam block which get off centre from the plastic that has been made inside to hold the screws..
b) Drill the inside of the cam block where the square pin moves in order to gain some room to fit the cam block without drilling new holes using the existing ones.
Has anybody done this mod to the retracts, and if so how did you go about doing this ??
second set of cam blocks
once installed holes don't aligned
If drilling new holes the pin doesn't get 100% support from top view..
When installing the second cam block the holes don't align properly which means :
a) To install it I need to re drill holes in the cam block which get off centre from the plastic that has been made inside to hold the screws..
b) Drill the inside of the cam block where the square pin moves in order to gain some room to fit the cam block without drilling new holes using the existing ones.
Has anybody done this mod to the retracts, and if so how did you go about doing this ??
second set of cam blocks
once installed holes don't aligned
If drilling new holes the pin doesn't get 100% support from top view..
#3392
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can I get a show of hands on you that have the Robart air retracts and have had the assembly housing break and pop the top of the wing a bit...
I went to a machine shop to ask how much it would cost to fabricate an aluminum replacement but it was way too expensive... I'm wondering if I could screw in a strap of metal across the top there and maybe that will give it the extra strength necessary to prevent that failure on ground loops. One in five landings now will result in a roll out that ends with a veering and retract breaking event (on hard surface)... anywhere I can land in dirt or grass I don't have that issue...
I went to a machine shop to ask how much it would cost to fabricate an aluminum replacement but it was way too expensive... I'm wondering if I could screw in a strap of metal across the top there and maybe that will give it the extra strength necessary to prevent that failure on ground loops. One in five landings now will result in a roll out that ends with a veering and retract breaking event (on hard surface)... anywhere I can land in dirt or grass I don't have that issue...
#3393
My Feedback: (34)
[Qthink OTE=sparky4lawndart;1c916700]can I get a show of hands on you that have the Robart air retracts and have had the assembly housing break and pop the top of the wing a bit...
I went to a machine shop to ask how much it would cost to fabricate an aluminum replacement but it was way too expensive... I'm wondering if I could screw in 1a strap of metal across the top there and maybe that will give it the extra strength necessary to prevent that failure on ground loops. One in five landings now will result in a roll out that ends with a veering and retract breaking event (on hard surface)... anywhere I can land in dirt or grass I don't have that issue...[/QUOTE]
I have wondered if spending an exstra $40 at Robart for the 2 extra blocks is worth the money.
I have only broken 1 blocks with my other TFG war birds. I always glue a peace of plastic like a credit card above the block so if it does break it spreads the load not to damage to top of the wing
I think Serria makes a aluminum block for these retracts
I went to a machine shop to ask how much it would cost to fabricate an aluminum replacement but it was way too expensive... I'm wondering if I could screw in 1a strap of metal across the top there and maybe that will give it the extra strength necessary to prevent that failure on ground loops. One in five landings now will result in a roll out that ends with a veering and retract breaking event (on hard surface)... anywhere I can land in dirt or grass I don't have that issue...[/QUOTE]
I have wondered if spending an exstra $40 at Robart for the 2 extra blocks is worth the money.
I have only broken 1 blocks with my other TFG war birds. I always glue a peace of plastic like a credit card above the block so if it does break it spreads the load not to damage to top of the wing
I think Serria makes a aluminum block for these retracts
#3394
Hi everybody. My TF FW 190 is still in construction and I have to decide about engine. I would like to install a Saito FG84 using flexible exhaust hoses supplied with engine. Does this type of installation requires firewall modification? As far I understand the firewall modification is required with Keleo Ring muffles. Is this correct ?
#3395
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Quick question about motor mounting.
I'm dropping an ASP 400 radial in mine. Do you just set the motor up square, or do you need to add a little right-prop and/or down thrust?
BJ
I'm dropping an ASP 400 radial in mine. Do you just set the motor up square, or do you need to add a little right-prop and/or down thrust?
BJ
#3396
Senior Member
#3398
My Feedback: (13)
I have to say as I have a top flite gaint p51, p47, p40 and now the fw190. I have seen how each arf has gotten better with the p51 being the first arf
As I will admit the cowl bolts on all the others are not my favorite part of any of these arfs.
But the cowl ring on my w190 is driving me crazy
I used 5min epoxy so it would in a few spots to tac the ring in place. After a few hours I pulled it off the plane then added more 5min all around the ring. I let it dry and I guess the ring moved and was off.
I had to use a hobbynife and a torch to lossen the ring and try again.
It looks good to go but it seems to have more of a gap in front of the removable cover than I thought there should be. But epoxy is sold now.
Anyone have a close picture of the cowl and removable cover
As I will admit the cowl bolts on all the others are not my favorite part of any of these arfs.
But the cowl ring on my w190 is driving me crazy
I used 5min epoxy so it would in a few spots to tac the ring in place. After a few hours I pulled it off the plane then added more 5min all around the ring. I let it dry and I guess the ring moved and was off.
I had to use a hobbynife and a torch to lossen the ring and try again.
It looks good to go but it seems to have more of a gap in front of the removable cover than I thought there should be. But epoxy is sold now.
Anyone have a close picture of the cowl and removable cover
#3399
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
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Here is a link to the page, 'Swordsn' was referring to!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...peared-27.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...peared-27.html
Last edited by dasintex; 11-13-2014 at 06:16 AM.
#3400
My Feedback: (34)
Hey guys I never ask such a newb question as I have a few of these top flite gaint war bird
I was going to use a satio 300 but decided to keep it simple and run a dle 55 standard with stock muffler as it fits well
Anyway im useing robot electric retracts. I put the 2s 2200 lipo and 2 2500 life packs next to the fuel tank. Im trying to set up the cg and even with these huge batterys up front im going to need a lot more weight upfront to get the 5.5in cg
Does this sound right?
What/how did you add weight up front?
I didn't mess with the stock metal plates
I was going to use a satio 300 but decided to keep it simple and run a dle 55 standard with stock muffler as it fits well
Anyway im useing robot electric retracts. I put the 2s 2200 lipo and 2 2500 life packs next to the fuel tank. Im trying to set up the cg and even with these huge batterys up front im going to need a lot more weight upfront to get the 5.5in cg
Does this sound right?
What/how did you add weight up front?
I didn't mess with the stock metal plates