TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#3651
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Put in a Matchbox from Hitec, or an MSA-10 from Futaba on the rudder channel.
Then you can adjust the travel on the rudder and tail wheel independently, and you have freed one channel.
Do the same on the retract channel. Then you can adjust the retract servos for mains and tailwheel independently. Another channel free.
Then you can adjust the travel on the rudder and tail wheel independently, and you have freed one channel.
Do the same on the retract channel. Then you can adjust the retract servos for mains and tailwheel independently. Another channel free.
Good idea. I may have to go that route.
#3652
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Southern Minnesota USA
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eme 70 adventure
the eme 70cc twin fits nicely in the TF FW190. as the eme 70cc description said it shares the same foot print as the dle 55-60 eme 55-60 singles and it does. I simply followed the topflite assembly guide . the 70cc twin used the same bolt pattern as the dle 55cc and the same 5 wooden spacers as well. just some very minor trimming to the fire wall for clearance of one of the starter bolts and two of the spacers had to be notched for clearance of an idler gear bolt. very minor no problem minimal time.
there is indeed spare clearance for the plug boots on both sides of the engine. there is 1/4 inch on the right side and 3/8 on the left side. I pulled the weights out of the fire wall so @ this point I'm not sure where the C/G will end up but I'm sure it will be no problem to balance the model.
I am looking forward to the smooth low idle of the twin and of course power. the electric start will save my back/neck when flip starting as I have severe issues.
we will see what problems come up if any.cooling might be an issue, I will use the temp gun when tuning and deal with it other wise she's looking good
there is indeed spare clearance for the plug boots on both sides of the engine. there is 1/4 inch on the right side and 3/8 on the left side. I pulled the weights out of the fire wall so @ this point I'm not sure where the C/G will end up but I'm sure it will be no problem to balance the model.
I am looking forward to the smooth low idle of the twin and of course power. the electric start will save my back/neck when flip starting as I have severe issues.
we will see what problems come up if any.cooling might be an issue, I will use the temp gun when tuning and deal with it other wise she's looking good
#3654
Join Date: Nov 2014
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the weights weren't glued and came off easily by removing the screws. also the stock spinner fits right on as the crank has the same threads and has the same prop pattern as the dle 55 ect. it looks like the throttle and choke servo locations should be the same as the single engines just the linkage holes will need to be drilled in a different spot.
#3655
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Just an FYI for anyone running the electric mains, and mechanical tail. For the sake of trying, and before I just ordered a 9 channel receiver, I y'd the tail with the mains, added a 5 second delay, and travels limits, and everything seems good. It all cycles like it should and locks in. The only thing that I do notice, is that for some reason the tail cycles when powered up,but I'm thinking that if I re-bind and to reset my fail safes, all should be good(and it was). Anyway, did some system and taxi tests at the field yesterday along with a little engine break in. All seems good so far. Close to maiden time.
Last edited by cjray; 03-10-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#3658
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Thanks.
You reckon they perform ok?
Still can't decide on electric or air retracts here.
And then there's the Sierra thing that comes into the equation - though from what I've read/heard so far, they are a bit more expensive.... and you have to do mods to the retract wells to get them to work on a '190...
BJ
You reckon they perform ok?
Still can't decide on electric or air retracts here.
And then there's the Sierra thing that comes into the equation - though from what I've read/heard so far, they are a bit more expensive.... and you have to do mods to the retract wells to get them to work on a '190...
BJ
#3659
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So far so good. They cycle every time with no issue. We'll see how it goes once they start getting used. I just didn't want to fool with airlines and what goes with it, plus it gave me the ability to place my batteries under the hatch, where the air tank would have been, for easy access. I will say that if I had of seen it before hand, I would have used the electric tail and remove and relocate the actuator like someone did in this thread, I forgot who it was, but it was a great idea. Nothing wrong with the mechanical tail(same assembly as the air and electric, I believe), but since I have the electric mains, it would have been good to have the tail on that setup also, versus the mechanical, plus, it would have freed up a receiver channel. I could always buy the actuator, I guess, and change it up later.
#3660
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Any ideas where I could purchase the electric Robarts from down here in Oz?
We still seem to be 20 years behind the rest of the world - if I go to the Robart site, it says "contact your local dealer".
Catch 22 is that there isn't a local dealer. Well, not one that keeps stuff in stock and doesn't try to gouge your eyes out with ridiculous prices...
And it's not that easy to buy from O/S either - most of them don't ship to Aus... or they want an arm and a leg and your firstborn if they do.
BJ
We still seem to be 20 years behind the rest of the world - if I go to the Robart site, it says "contact your local dealer".
Catch 22 is that there isn't a local dealer. Well, not one that keeps stuff in stock and doesn't try to gouge your eyes out with ridiculous prices...
And it's not that easy to buy from O/S either - most of them don't ship to Aus... or they want an arm and a leg and your firstborn if they do.
BJ
#3665
#3666
I purchased the wood stand from my friend who enjoy carpenter.
It cost approximately $250 including shipping cost in domastic South Korea.
It is very usueful for giant aircraft both workshop and airfield.
It cost approximately $250 including shipping cost in domastic South Korea.
It is very usueful for giant aircraft both workshop and airfield.
#3668
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Southern Minnesota USA
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that stand would be nice.
ahh the 84 r3 and 250 moki are my dream engines. once I have owned and flown with the 250 moki radial my purpose in life will be over. I will simply die and float down stream like the great coho salmon....
ahh the 84 r3 and 250 moki are my dream engines. once I have owned and flown with the 250 moki radial my purpose in life will be over. I will simply die and float down stream like the great coho salmon....
#3671
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Hey guys.. I hope all of you are well!
Yesterday marked the 300th and 301st flight of my TF GS FW190... This plane is without a doubt my favorite plane ever... it looks good in the air and is a thrill everytime I fly it...
Today I flew her 5 more times so I'm up to 306 now...
I think I'm going to peel the wing, glass, and paint it soon as I have rubbed the wingtips raw with bad landings the last two days (there are a lot of soft spots all over both sides). She deserves a little love after 2 years putting up with me...lol
Yesterday marked the 300th and 301st flight of my TF GS FW190... This plane is without a doubt my favorite plane ever... it looks good in the air and is a thrill everytime I fly it...
Today I flew her 5 more times so I'm up to 306 now...
I think I'm going to peel the wing, glass, and paint it soon as I have rubbed the wingtips raw with bad landings the last two days (there are a lot of soft spots all over both sides). She deserves a little love after 2 years putting up with me...lol
#3672
Join Date: Nov 2014
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sparky, you have dibbs on my moki if I ever get to that point =D . I'm getting closer on my FW. I'm down to the optical kill switch, ignition, the starter solenoid,fuel tank and lines and the cockpit. I am really looking forward to flying this model .
sparky, where did you mount your starter solenoid?
sparky, where did you mount your starter solenoid?
#3673
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sparky, you have dibbs on my moki if I ever get to that point =D . I'm getting closer on my FW. I'm down to the optical kill switch, ignition, the starter solenoid,fuel tank and lines and the cockpit. I am really looking forward to flying this model .
sparky, where did you mount your starter solenoid?
sparky, where did you mount your starter solenoid?
I put the solenoid next to the fuel tank below the switches (above if your looking into the fuse) ... I slip my 3S LiPo battery into the space directly behind the firewall secured with Velcro.
#3674
I am getting closer to a maiden.. In the process of setting-up the electronics.
One quick question to all you guys who have flown the airframe: how much flap are you deploying for take-off and landing? How much elevator compensation do you need? Up or down?
Thanks,
Hector.
One quick question to all you guys who have flown the airframe: how much flap are you deploying for take-off and landing? How much elevator compensation do you need? Up or down?
Thanks,
Hector.
#3675
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I am getting closer to a maiden.. In the process of setting-up the electronics.
One quick question to all you guys who have flown the airframe: how much flap are you deploying for take-off and landing? How much elevator compensation do you need? Up or down?
Thanks,
Hector.
One quick question to all you guys who have flown the airframe: how much flap are you deploying for take-off and landing? How much elevator compensation do you need? Up or down?
Thanks,
Hector.
if you try to three point this bird its likely to ground loop IMO...