TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#3802
Senior Member
Hi.
If I buy the FA-300T-TDP I still have to buy the gas conversion kit.
For that amount of money I could just as well buy the Saito FG-57TS motor.
But I am confused as some people mention problems with the FG-57TS and the FG-84R motors.
Then sometimes I think to just go with the DLE 55RA.
I can also use the DLE 55 in more planes than the Saito motors if the FW-190 gets _)(*)(&^*^% lol..................
If I buy the FA-300T-TDP I still have to buy the gas conversion kit.
For that amount of money I could just as well buy the Saito FG-57TS motor.
But I am confused as some people mention problems with the FG-57TS and the FG-84R motors.
Then sometimes I think to just go with the DLE 55RA.
I can also use the DLE 55 in more planes than the Saito motors if the FW-190 gets _)(*)(&^*^% lol..................
#3804
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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Got hold of a Saito fg57t for a special price because the box is damaged.
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
#3805
Senior Member
Got hold of a Saito fg57t for a special price because the box is damaged.
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
The ignition systems on early Saito FG engines were problematic. They were not based on Hall effect triggering like the C&H or the Chinese knock off RCXEL systems. The carburetors are proprietary & rebuild kits aren't available. Saito wants to sell you a $160 carburetor when (not if) the diaphragms go south. Many buyers of early FG-30s ended up spending more to fit the engines to the C&H gas conversions in order to get reliable service.
I would investigate the ignition system on that FG-57T, & if it is not a Hall affect triggered CDI sytem, you might be money ahead to buy the FA-300T & convert it to gas.
Is the FA-300T the dual carb version? If it is, I would be interested in the carbs, manifolds & linkage to offset some of the expense to convert to gas if you decide to go that route. In the methanol versions, the dual carberators are much better as far as balancing the cylinders @ idle & midrange.
#3806
Senior Member
FG-57T Thread
HERE IS A THREAD ABOUT THE FG-57T. Post #113 through #140 on page 5 & 6 address the difficulty of obtaining service parts for the carburetor.
The C&H gas conversions use off the shelf Zama or Walbro carburetors that use readily available rebuild kits.
The C&H gas conversions use off the shelf Zama or Walbro carburetors that use readily available rebuild kits.
#3807
Senior Member
#3808
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Yes it is the dual carb FA300TTDP brand new in box.
I can buy it at hobby shop for R10 000 South - African Rand. About 1200$
I will have to import the conversion kit as I live in South - Africa.
I can buy it at hobby shop for R10 000 South - African Rand. About 1200$
I will have to import the conversion kit as I live in South - Africa.
#3809
Senior Member
Adrian has exported conversions I believe. An e-mail to him will be promptly answered. I usually advise people to call him, but in your case, that could be expensive.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-12-2015 at 06:51 AM.
#3810
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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The importers left me an e mail.
They did not say which version of the FG - 57T it is. Will find out. It will be about $1260 if I convert it to dollars.
They did not say which version of the FG - 57T it is. Will find out. It will be about $1260 if I convert it to dollars.
Last edited by RCSYNDROME; 05-12-2015 at 08:06 AM.
#3811
My Feedback: (49)
In My Opinion the best for GS is in this order is Gasoline, Electric, Glow. My question why would anyone but an avid massicust want to screw with Glow. It's Greasy, Messy Oily and just down right nasty. Yes that's all we had and it was cheaper. Today with the advent of much less expensive well made and easy to maintain Gasoline engines it's just a no brainier. Haven't seen many Glow style converted to gas that were worth their salt nor High Price. Now before U all go bonkers and call me a blasphemer or something it again JMHO. and just like AWHOLES every ones got one some more.
But then every one has different likes and dislikes just expressing mine as U do yours.Have an great day.
But then every one has different likes and dislikes just expressing mine as U do yours.Have an great day.
#3812
Senior Member
#3813
Senior Member
In My Opinion the best for GS is in this order is Gasoline, Electric, Glow. My question why would anyone but an avid massicust want to screw with Glow. It's Greasy, Messy Oily and just down right nasty. Yes that's all we had and it was cheaper. Today with the advent of much less expensive well made and easy to maintain Gasoline engines it's just a no brainier. Haven't seen many Glow style converted to gas that were worth their salt nor High Price. Now before U all go bonkers and call me a blasphemer or something it again JMHO. and just like AWHOLES every ones got one some more.
But then every one has different likes and dislikes just expressing mine as U do yours.Have an great day.
But then every one has different likes and dislikes just expressing mine as U do yours.Have an great day.
I agree IF Glow Ignition (GI) is employed. I also have a dim view of engines designed for GI that are converted to gasoline.
However, when methanol is combined with CDI, a 4-stroke engine can make as much as 40% more power than a similar sized engine of the same design burning gasoline. Methanol will allow much more aggressive tuning such as ignition advance & compression ratio. Each of these factors can be easily altered. Fuel economy is also significantly improved with CDI/methanol over GI.
My high compression FA-180 will churn out just under 4 HP if I put the nitro to it. The FG-30 gas version of the same engine makes about 2.4 HP. It can also run on a straight methanol/lube mix. Methanol can be had for a little as $5 in gallon jugs or about $100 for a 55 gallon drum.
Methanol is safer to transport & it doesn't stink like gasoline. Saito engines run much cooler on methanol/CDI compared to gasoline although they will run a little hotter with CDI than with GI when the same methanol fuel is employed.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-12-2015 at 12:04 PM.
#3814
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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#3815
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I unpacked the kit last night.
This is a piece of &*^^%^%%$ kit.
Got two left aileron servo hatches.
Plastic exhausts were also fixed with different colour black paint or something.
I am returning this garbage.
Paid lots of money for this.
Will never ever buy TOP FLITE Arf again...
This is a piece of &*^^%^%%$ kit.
Got two left aileron servo hatches.
Plastic exhausts were also fixed with different colour black paint or something.
I am returning this garbage.
Paid lots of money for this.
Will never ever buy TOP FLITE Arf again...
#3816
Got hold of a Saito fg57t for a special price because the box is damaged.
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
The Saito fg 57TS is the newer revised engine but they don't have stock.
Don't know if I must take the 57t for special price.
Are some of you guys using the Saito 57T.
Any problems with this older engine????
The ignition is very good quality too. As allways, keep the voltage within range. The voltage range is printed on the ignition box..
The ignition box is RcExl with a Saito marking on it too. But as with any other engine, make sure you stay within the voltage range.
The later engines comes with a wider voltage ramge. When the first engines came, this was in the period when many switched to A123 batteries.
I did so too. They are 7.2 volts I think, when fully charged. That burned my box, I think it was rated 4.8-6 Volts.
Now the latest ignition boxes are up to 8Volts, I think. Its printed on the box.
Another thing that has confused many, I think, is the L and H needles. I think they are finer coarsed than an ordinary Walbro.
This means that on this Walbro, you might have to turn the needles more that you are used too.
Another thing is that this fourstroke boxer behaves a bit differently than a two stroke single, when leaned.
It starts running on just one cylinder.
hehe.
Just give it a bit more petrol.
And since it has just one carb, it get is difficult to adjust it so both cylinders gets the same amount of fuel.
But rather that, than having to adjust two carbs !
Just dont get too hung up in a bit of difference between the two cylinders.Just have some oil in the crank case before first startup,
and fly it.
Last edited by kwik; 05-12-2015 at 10:41 PM.
#3817
Senior Member
#3818
Senior Member
I have two FG-57 T's. Very good engines. No problems with them that you wont have with any other engine.
The ignition is very good quality too. As allways, keep the voltage within range. The voltage range is printed on the ignition box..
The ignition box is RcExl with a Saito marking on it too. But as with any other engine, make sure you stay within the voltage range.
The later engines comes with a wider voltage ramge. When the first engines came, this was in the period when many switched to A123 batteries.
I did so too. They are 7.2 volts I think, when fully charged. That burned my box, I think it was rated 4.8-6 Volts.
Now the latest ignition boxes are up to 8Volts, I think. Its printed on the box.
Another thing that has confused many, I think, is the L and H needles. I think they are finer coarsed than an ordinary Walbro.
This means that on this Walbro, you might have to turn the needles more that you are used too.
Another thing is that this fourstroke boxer behaves a bit differently than a two stroke single, when leaned.
It starts running on just one cylinder.
hehe.
Just give it a bit more petrol.
And since it has just one carb, it get is difficult to adjust it so both cylinders gets the same amount of fuel.
But rather that, than having to adjust two carbs !
Just dont get too hung up in a bit of difference between the two cylinders.Just have some oil in the crank case before first startup,
and fly it.
The ignition is very good quality too. As allways, keep the voltage within range. The voltage range is printed on the ignition box..
The ignition box is RcExl with a Saito marking on it too. But as with any other engine, make sure you stay within the voltage range.
The later engines comes with a wider voltage ramge. When the first engines came, this was in the period when many switched to A123 batteries.
I did so too. They are 7.2 volts I think, when fully charged. That burned my box, I think it was rated 4.8-6 Volts.
Now the latest ignition boxes are up to 8Volts, I think. Its printed on the box.
Another thing that has confused many, I think, is the L and H needles. I think they are finer coarsed than an ordinary Walbro.
This means that on this Walbro, you might have to turn the needles more that you are used too.
Another thing is that this fourstroke boxer behaves a bit differently than a two stroke single, when leaned.
It starts running on just one cylinder.
hehe.
Just give it a bit more petrol.
And since it has just one carb, it get is difficult to adjust it so both cylinders gets the same amount of fuel.
But rather that, than having to adjust two carbs !
Just dont get too hung up in a bit of difference between the two cylinders.Just have some oil in the crank case before first startup,
and fly it.
#3820
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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Returned the kit. Got my money back.
Busy with esm spitfire. After that i got my esm p51d mustang and then the esm bf 109.
Waiting in line lol.
Busy with esm spitfire. After that i got my esm p51d mustang and then the esm bf 109.
Waiting in line lol.
#3821
My Feedback: (1)
Glad you were able to return it. It might not seem like a good deal to you in South Africa, but here in the US the Top Flite kit is less expensive than an equivalent ESM kit (shipping and everything included). It may have some issues, but the hardware and ease of assembly is also far superior to any ESM kit I've seen.
We'll just keep enjoying ours!
We'll just keep enjoying ours!
#3822
I would never purchase another ESM product; my 89" WS Spitfire ARF turned into a major assembly/rework project for the ailerons, flaps, elevators and engine mounting tube/cylinder etc. I know two other RC flyers who purchased ESM Spitfires in 2012 at the same time as me and they had similar major problems with their Spitfires. All three Spitfires have still not flown due to replacement parts that were ordered and still have not arrived after 2+ years. It's a real disappointment knowing we will have good looking Spitfires when assembled and flown, unfortunately no spare parts have stopped completion of assembly
Roger
Roger
#3823
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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Actually i got the kit for the towerhobbies price here in south africa.
Esm kits are much cheaper here. I know they have more work.
I was expecting better quality from topflite arf's.
Their quality is not what it used to be.
I like the quality of pilot arf's.
I am flying a 30% edge 540 with a gp 123cc motor. Awesomeness.....
Esm kits are much cheaper here. I know they have more work.
I was expecting better quality from topflite arf's.
Their quality is not what it used to be.
I like the quality of pilot arf's.
I am flying a 30% edge 540 with a gp 123cc motor. Awesomeness.....