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Old 12-16-2016, 10:36 PM
  #4301  
jagdpanther9
 
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yea, typical.........
Old 12-17-2016, 06:00 AM
  #4302  
Spychalla Aircraft
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro
Any close up pics of the FG84 installed in this FW cowl?
I have installed that engine in TF Corsair and had to use a H9 cowl to make it work. I've checked the FG84 against my SisT FW cowl and it's too big to fit without modifying it.

And, FYI, the FG84 will fit the H9 Corsair cowl without mods to the cowl if you install it with zero thrust angle compensation.

Will the FG84 fit the TF FW cowl without any mods?
Chris, Here are the close-up pictures you are looking for. Build a stack of plywood to mount it on. Cut the hole for the carb and all. A little dremel work on the corners of the square TF box will get you clear for the KELEO Muffler. Baffles are advised to get the cooling down. I got mine from Ray English in Nevada. It needs a big hole in the bottom of the cowl for cooling. I think mine is something like 4" wide and 6" long, better safe than sorry on an expensive engine like this. Also, don't miss the modifications on the side panels to get some air through that firewall, cut those panels back and fill in as needed. This is very helpfull for cooling. Leo Spychalla

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Old 12-17-2016, 06:07 AM
  #4303  
Spychalla Aircraft
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Now for something trick on the Saito FG84. A way to choke that beast without pulling on the barrel of the carb. I built a servo hinged flapper with foam on it that closes when the ignition is turned off. It is just like putting your thumb over the carb. I run dual 7ch RX so you can actually get by with both ignition and choke on one channel plugged into separate RX. You never have either of them on at the same time. Works like a charm. Leo Spychalla
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:08 PM
  #4304  
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Ill be mounting an FG84 on mine as well. I heard you need to cut the fire wall back 1" and use some stand offs.
But i'm at the point of installing Robart electric retract tail gear and wondering how do you get it to slide in the fuse...The actuator seems to be in the way but can't be removed. How did you all get that to fit?
Old 12-19-2016, 01:33 PM
  #4305  
n8622t
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Maybe I'm wrong but by looking at this pic, it appears that the engine bolts to the original firewall with a spacer added????
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Old 12-19-2016, 01:36 PM
  #4306  
Chris Nicastro
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Awesome!!
Old 12-20-2016, 06:46 AM
  #4307  
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Originally Posted by Spychalla Aircraft
Chris, Here are the close-up pictures you are looking for. Build a stack of plywood to mount it on. Cut the hole for the carb and all. A little dremel work on the corners of the square TF box will get you clear for the KELEO Muffler. Baffles are advised to get the cooling down. I got mine from Ray English in Nevada. It needs a big hole in the bottom of the cowl for cooling. I think mine is something like 4" wide and 6" long, better safe than sorry on an expensive engine like this. Also, don't miss the modifications on the side panels to get some air through that firewall, cut those panels back and fill in as needed. This is very helpfull for cooling. Leo Spychalla


Leo,
Did you cut back the fire wall? Like n8622t said it looks like you added a plywood spacer? what's the depth on that spacer? With the throttle body is in the fire wall how do you go by tuning the engine to get to that needle valve? I'm trying to do this to mine without having to cut the fire wall back and risk screwing up the thrust angle on the fire wall.
Old 12-21-2016, 04:32 AM
  #4308  
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No cutting of the firewall. You do need to cut hole in it to accept the carb. The thing to recognize is that this is a 4-Stroke engine and that they don't have the spit-back out of the carb like a 2-Stroke. So putting the carb intake right in the inside of the fuse is not an unreasonable way to go. Just build a stack of plywood to satisfy the engine position you desire.

Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.

Leo
Old 12-21-2016, 07:54 AM
  #4309  
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Awesome i see how its set up. Instead of plywood I have a bunch of stand offs and spacers and will use those so I don't completely block airflow to the carb.
Old 12-21-2016, 10:22 AM
  #4310  
n8622t
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Originally Posted by Spychalla Aircraft
No cutting of the firewall. You do need to cut hole in it to accept the carb. The thing to recognize is that this is a 4-Stroke engine and that they don't have the spit-back out of the carb like a 2-Stroke. So putting the carb intake right in the inside of the fuse is not an unreasonable way to go. Just build a stack of plywood to satisfy the engine position you desire.

Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.

Leo

Good to know....thanks
Old 12-21-2016, 09:15 PM
  #4311  
Chris Nicastro
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I have a new set of Sierra gear for a SisT 190 I haven't built yet. I was considering getting a TF FW just to get flying but I'd like to avoid the issues of the Robart gear for this plane.

Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
Old 12-22-2016, 04:51 AM
  #4312  
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro
I have a new set of Sierra gear for a SisT 190 I haven't built yet. I was considering getting a TF FW just to get flying but I'd like to avoid the issues of the Robart gear for this plane.

Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
Chris, I have made a mounting design and have all the details, but it is based on increasing the dihederal of the wing to a scale configuration. I can send out a print-out of the templates in order to be helpful. I should put together an instruction sheet to go with the templates. The sequence is: Tear out the old mounts, prepare new plywood and maple mounts, epoxy mounts in, cut bottom of wing joiner .250" on bottom outer edges, add .250" block to the top, epoxy wing together, fill bottom gap with balsa, glass strip the seam, cover with a trim of monokote. Done with gear at correct angle. Leo Spychalla
If interested in the details on this send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
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Last edited by Spychalla Aircraft; 12-22-2016 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Adding information
Old 12-22-2016, 07:01 AM
  #4313  
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Leo,
that looks SO MUCH BETTER.
Old 12-22-2016, 09:04 AM
  #4314  
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Nice work Leo, I for one am interested in the instruction sheet and templates.
Old 12-22-2016, 11:20 AM
  #4315  
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Originally Posted by AV8ATOR
Nice work Leo, I for one am interested in the instruction sheet and templates.
OK. Send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
Old 12-22-2016, 11:44 AM
  #4316  
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Originally Posted by Spychalla Aircraft
OK. Send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
Sent you a PM.
Old 12-22-2016, 12:01 PM
  #4317  
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Nice explanation Spychalla A....I saved all of that Thanks
Old 12-22-2016, 09:02 PM
  #4318  
Chris Nicastro
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Thanks Leo, I'll be in touch, that not too bad of a mod to do. Funny it's a similar solution to the P-51. Adding the scale dihedral and using the 85 degree retracts makes the plane look right and it flies great.

Did you notice any difference flying with more dihedral in the FW?
Old 02-05-2017, 01:10 PM
  #4319  
Tony Gag Jr.
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I want to separate my gear doors so there is a lower and upper gear door. I am using Robart retracts. Does anyone have pictures of how they mounted the lower portion of the gear door?

Thanks,
Tony
Old 02-05-2017, 01:45 PM
  #4320  
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Originally Posted by Tony Gag Jr.
I want to separate my gear doors so there is a lower and upper gear door. I am using Robart retracts. Does anyone have pictures of how they mounted the lower portion of the gear door?

Thanks,
Tony
Check this page of the thread. I'm doing the same. Just bought a new set of doors.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post11479371
Old 02-06-2017, 12:07 PM
  #4321  
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Perfect, thank you.
Old 02-12-2017, 03:44 AM
  #4322  
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Spychalla can you set me up temples for Sierra gear just pm me a price
Old 02-14-2017, 06:52 AM
  #4323  
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Hy guys, I'm going to finalize my FW190 and I have a question about COG and balance point. The 195mm suggested by the manual shall be measured from which part of the wings? Where there is located the first cannon (red arrow) or from firewall (green arrow) ? Thanks a lot for your support.
Regards
Riccardo
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Old 02-14-2017, 07:29 AM
  #4324  
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Red arrow
Old 02-14-2017, 07:35 AM
  #4325  
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Originally Posted by rigofly
Hy guys, I'm going to finalize my FW190 and I have a question about COG and balance point. The 195mm suggested by the manual shall be measured from which part of the wings? Where there is located the first cannon (red arrow) or from firewall (green arrow) ? Thanks a lot for your support.
Regards
Riccardo
The CG is as stated on page 30, from the wing break which is where the inner cannon is located and you have identified via red arrow.


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