TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#4302
My Feedback: (34)
Any close up pics of the FG84 installed in this FW cowl?
I have installed that engine in TF Corsair and had to use a H9 cowl to make it work. I've checked the FG84 against my SisT FW cowl and it's too big to fit without modifying it.
And, FYI, the FG84 will fit the H9 Corsair cowl without mods to the cowl if you install it with zero thrust angle compensation.
Will the FG84 fit the TF FW cowl without any mods?
I have installed that engine in TF Corsair and had to use a H9 cowl to make it work. I've checked the FG84 against my SisT FW cowl and it's too big to fit without modifying it.
And, FYI, the FG84 will fit the H9 Corsair cowl without mods to the cowl if you install it with zero thrust angle compensation.
Will the FG84 fit the TF FW cowl without any mods?
#4303
My Feedback: (34)
Now for something trick on the Saito FG84. A way to choke that beast without pulling on the barrel of the carb. I built a servo hinged flapper with foam on it that closes when the ignition is turned off. It is just like putting your thumb over the carb. I run dual 7ch RX so you can actually get by with both ignition and choke on one channel plugged into separate RX. You never have either of them on at the same time. Works like a charm. Leo Spychalla
#4304
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
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Ill be mounting an FG84 on mine as well. I heard you need to cut the fire wall back 1" and use some stand offs.
But i'm at the point of installing Robart electric retract tail gear and wondering how do you get it to slide in the fuse...The actuator seems to be in the way but can't be removed. How did you all get that to fit?
But i'm at the point of installing Robart electric retract tail gear and wondering how do you get it to slide in the fuse...The actuator seems to be in the way but can't be removed. How did you all get that to fit?
#4307
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Chris, Here are the close-up pictures you are looking for. Build a stack of plywood to mount it on. Cut the hole for the carb and all. A little dremel work on the corners of the square TF box will get you clear for the KELEO Muffler. Baffles are advised to get the cooling down. I got mine from Ray English in Nevada. It needs a big hole in the bottom of the cowl for cooling. I think mine is something like 4" wide and 6" long, better safe than sorry on an expensive engine like this. Also, don't miss the modifications on the side panels to get some air through that firewall, cut those panels back and fill in as needed. This is very helpfull for cooling. Leo Spychalla
Leo,
Did you cut back the fire wall? Like n8622t said it looks like you added a plywood spacer? what's the depth on that spacer? With the throttle body is in the fire wall how do you go by tuning the engine to get to that needle valve? I'm trying to do this to mine without having to cut the fire wall back and risk screwing up the thrust angle on the fire wall.
#4308
My Feedback: (34)
No cutting of the firewall. You do need to cut hole in it to accept the carb. The thing to recognize is that this is a 4-Stroke engine and that they don't have the spit-back out of the carb like a 2-Stroke. So putting the carb intake right in the inside of the fuse is not an unreasonable way to go. Just build a stack of plywood to satisfy the engine position you desire.
Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.
Leo
Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.
Leo
#4310
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (8)
No cutting of the firewall. You do need to cut hole in it to accept the carb. The thing to recognize is that this is a 4-Stroke engine and that they don't have the spit-back out of the carb like a 2-Stroke. So putting the carb intake right in the inside of the fuse is not an unreasonable way to go. Just build a stack of plywood to satisfy the engine position you desire.
Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.
Leo
Carb adjustment is done through 2 well placed guide tubes on the port side. Check the pictures for the white tubes. They guide a screwdriver from small holes in the cowl right to the carb. You can adjust easily while the engine is running.
Leo
Good to know....thanks
#4311
My Feedback: (3)
I have a new set of Sierra gear for a SisT 190 I haven't built yet. I was considering getting a TF FW just to get flying but I'd like to avoid the issues of the Robart gear for this plane.
Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
#4312
My Feedback: (34)
I have a new set of Sierra gear for a SisT 190 I haven't built yet. I was considering getting a TF FW just to get flying but I'd like to avoid the issues of the Robart gear for this plane.
Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
Does anyone have some pics and info on the installation of Sierra gear? Any other problems or is it better to fix the Robart trunion block?
If interested in the details on this send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
Last edited by Spychalla Aircraft; 12-22-2016 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Adding information
#4315
My Feedback: (34)
OK. Send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
#4316
My Feedback: (5)
OK. Send me a PM with your snail-mail address and I will send you what you need. I will put together a paper template / plan and some instructions over this Christmas Holiday weekend 12/25/16 and have it available, (no parts, just paper). I will be asking for a small donation via mail or PayPal to cover expenses. Leo Spychalla
#4318
My Feedback: (3)
Thanks Leo, I'll be in touch, that not too bad of a mod to do. Funny it's a similar solution to the P-51. Adding the scale dihedral and using the 85 degree retracts makes the plane look right and it flies great.
Did you notice any difference flying with more dihedral in the FW?
Did you notice any difference flying with more dihedral in the FW?
#4320
My Feedback: (45)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post11479371
#4323
Hy guys, I'm going to finalize my FW190 and I have a question about COG and balance point. The 195mm suggested by the manual shall be measured from which part of the wings? Where there is located the first cannon (red arrow) or from firewall (green arrow) ? Thanks a lot for your support.
Regards
Riccardo
Regards
Riccardo
#4325
Hy guys, I'm going to finalize my FW190 and I have a question about COG and balance point. The 195mm suggested by the manual shall be measured from which part of the wings? Where there is located the first cannon (red arrow) or from firewall (green arrow) ? Thanks a lot for your support.
Regards
Riccardo
Regards
Riccardo