TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#4601
My Feedback: (3)
Not positive on the fit but the gear for the SisT FW has been mentioned before. I have this gear also but have not committed to cutting into the wing to find out. I'm planning on using them and changing the dihedral to the scale angle too.
I have decided to transfer the FG 85 RE-MOD engine from the Corsair to the TF FW. I'll cover that installation later on if anyone is interested.
I have decided to transfer the FG 85 RE-MOD engine from the Corsair to the TF FW. I'll cover that installation later on if anyone is interested.
#4603
If one spends the money on Sierra LG you may want to consider changing the wing dihedral to the correct 5 degrees too. It looks much better than the stock 2 degrees and it eliminates the side loads on the Sierra LG generated by the incorrect stock wing dihedral.
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DaBear1 (09-26-2023)
#4604
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lindsborg,
KS
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tmaucher, the Sierra LG you have is for the FW-190 Vally which is 1/4.5 scale which is larger than the 1/5 scale TF FW-190 model. You should have bought the 1/5 scale LG that fits the Sist, Holman, and Platt FW-190 models. You may have a fitment problem trying to install the 1/4.5 scale LG into the TF FW-190. The 1/5 scale LG is a fairly tight fit as is in the TF FW-190. For those that have purchased Sierra LG gear, I have added a PDF of the templates for the installation kit that was once offered by SS RC, they no longer stock or sell the kit.
If one spends the money on Sierra LG you may want to consider changing the wing dihedral to the correct 5 degrees too. It looks much better than the stock 2 degrees and it eliminates the side loads on the Sierra LG generated by the incorrect stock wing dihedral.
#4612
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
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Hi Nitroandgas,
Neat Fan! I have been printing those for TF Pilots for just over two years now. Quite impressed, that you can print them in ABS without warping. I use BDP which is a bit more temperature stable than ABS and a lot less toxic when printing.
Two small details to maybe improve your Design:
1. mine has a small lip to align the fan properly. The spinner backplate fits tightly onto the fan and its perfectly centered. Its also an indicator that the fan is perfectly round which is sometimes an issue with FDM printers.
2. I would definitly add some bridges to the bottom. You have a lot of mass on your fan (its a lot thicker and longer than my design) and I would be quite worried about centrifugal forces. You will have temperatures around 60-80° up front there and using ABS this could become an Issue...
Rev
Neat Fan! I have been printing those for TF Pilots for just over two years now. Quite impressed, that you can print them in ABS without warping. I use BDP which is a bit more temperature stable than ABS and a lot less toxic when printing.
Two small details to maybe improve your Design:
1. mine has a small lip to align the fan properly. The spinner backplate fits tightly onto the fan and its perfectly centered. Its also an indicator that the fan is perfectly round which is sometimes an issue with FDM printers.
2. I would definitly add some bridges to the bottom. You have a lot of mass on your fan (its a lot thicker and longer than my design) and I would be quite worried about centrifugal forces. You will have temperatures around 60-80° up front there and using ABS this could become an Issue...
Rev
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JGrc (06-02-2021)
#4614
My Feedback: (3)
Where do you find the cool painted spinners? I believe the kit only comes in black? I guess I can paint it myself any suggestions?
My backorder kit from Tower says "LATE JAN" I am starting to collect all the parts for the project....anyone have tips on the build? I am understanding that Robert has improved the pneumatic gear from this plane and that is the gear I am going to use along with a DLE-55RA I have NIB.
Thanks to all in advance !
My backorder kit from Tower says "LATE JAN" I am starting to collect all the parts for the project....anyone have tips on the build? I am understanding that Robert has improved the pneumatic gear from this plane and that is the gear I am going to use along with a DLE-55RA I have NIB.
Thanks to all in advance !
#4617
My Feedback: (3)
Any suggestions on Pneumatic gear? I read about "Sierra gear" but how much modification is required? I send Robert an email to see if the gear they offer is an improved version -vs- what they sold a few years back and all the issues....
I like the cooling fan idea....just wondering if it my fail and fall apart at high RPM's? Balance issues to boot?
I like the cooling fan idea....just wondering if it my fail and fall apart at high RPM's? Balance issues to boot?
#4618
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
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I use a special material called BDP to print the fans. They are printed solid so there is no "air" inside them. They are just as tough as an injection molded model.
The fan itself is usually balanced quite well but obviously it always makes sense to balance the complete spinner/Prop/Fan assembly once before running. Some of my fans have been running for two seasons now without issues.
Rev
#4619
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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So a quick question... I have been fooling around with an Idea and it seems to work very well.
Just curious, is there any requirement for some FW-190 wheels? They are ball raced (for a 1/4in axle), 5,3in in diameter and weigh 6,9oz. Theres still some detail cleaning to do to remove some printing flush (like with plastic model kits).
I have an idea on how to get the rear to look a bit nicer but apart from that they are ready to go...
Rev
Just curious, is there any requirement for some FW-190 wheels? They are ball raced (for a 1/4in axle), 5,3in in diameter and weigh 6,9oz. Theres still some detail cleaning to do to remove some printing flush (like with plastic model kits).
I have an idea on how to get the rear to look a bit nicer but apart from that they are ready to go...
Rev
#4620
My Feedback: (34)
Rev, I don't know on the need or demand for such wheels, but I do know that to smooth out 3D printed parts there is a modeler named Damon (DAG) who sells engines via Atwood Aviation. He gives his engine crankcases an acetone bath. Not sure if it is acetone sprayed on or dipped, but it smooths out the rough 3D printer paths well. You may want to experiment. Or contact DAG as he generously shares the knowledge he has. Leo
#4621
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
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Rev, I don't know on the need or demand for such wheels, but I do know that to smooth out 3D printed parts there is a modeler named Damon (DAG) who sells engines via Atwood Aviation. He gives his engine crankcases an acetone bath. Not sure if it is acetone sprayed on or dipped, but it smooths out the rough 3D printer paths well. You may want to experiment. Or contact DAG as he generously shares the knowledge he has. Leo
I print with a material called DBP. Its 100% eco friendly, tough as nails and has a very high "glass-temperature*" of 100°C. (PLA is somewhere around 55-60°C, ABS 90-100°). The only two downsides are 1. its expensive and 2. it cant be smoothed with ABS mist.
*The temperature the material becomes soft
Rev
#4622
My Feedback: (3)
Anyone mount a DLE-55RA on this model? It looks like the stock standoffs would require NONE of the wood parts like the DLE-55 standard in which the annual states "5" on the included wood plates would be necessary for the 184MM firewall to thrust washer.....looks like the 55RA is spot on????
Hoping I am right?
Hoping I am right?
#4625
My Feedback: (1)
I haven't bought one in a while. I've had 4 and they all had the 68mm standoffs.
I recently removed the DLE-55RA from one of my 190's and installed an EME-70. This is a heavy one, weighing 33 lbs dry. By switching to the twin I was able to loose about .6 lbs because the mass of the twin is farther forward so I could get rid of some lead. Normally the 55RA pulls them around fine, but my heavy version (We call Tank's Tank) could use the extra power, especially on warm days. It was a tight fit, but should be a great match.
I recently removed the DLE-55RA from one of my 190's and installed an EME-70. This is a heavy one, weighing 33 lbs dry. By switching to the twin I was able to loose about .6 lbs because the mass of the twin is farther forward so I could get rid of some lead. Normally the 55RA pulls them around fine, but my heavy version (We call Tank's Tank) could use the extra power, especially on warm days. It was a tight fit, but should be a great match.