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BALSAUSA NIEUPORT 28 1/3 SCALE

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Old 11-16-2013, 01:25 PM
  #26
samparfitt
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Upper wing (cont)

outer wings: Leading sheeting :
The top/bottom sheeting is done with two pieces although one piece should work, even with the compound curve on the tip.
A 30" piece was glued on the top from the inside edge to just past about the 3rd rib from the end.
A cross grain piece of balsa was CA'ed on the underside to sister the two butt end joints of the sheeting.
The W2 and W3 rib had to be sanded some to reduce the compound curve over the tip.
Carpenters glue was used and tape used to hold most of the sheeting to the wing save the wing tips that needed some strong clamps to get good alignment.

center wing:
While the sheeting was drying, I sanded all the ribs and spars to get good alignment between all surfaces.
I also glued up two pieces of 4" wide balsa sheets (edge to edge) to span from the aft spar to the main spar.
The top curved trailing edge pieces were then glued to the wing.
The sheeting was then glued between the aft and main spar.

Outer wings: bottom sheeting from main spar to LE.
With the top sheeting done the same procedure was done for the bottom sheeting of the wings.
One exception was two left over front pieces of W-4 were glued to one rib to give support to where the ends of the two sheets are butted together.
After gluing and taping the sheeting along the bottom of the wing, I turned over the wings and weighted them to insure no warpage.
WW II wings get full sheeting so they don't flex but these WW I, with only sheeting along the LE and TE, the wing can be twisted by hand.
I also started gluing some cap strips on the ribs.
I find cutting the ends of the caps at a slight bevel (bevel towards the bottom) allows an easier fit.

Center wing:
The sheeting from the main spar to the LE was done.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:43 AM
  #27
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Upper wings (cont)

After finishing the sheeting of the front of each wing, the wing is now very rigid and resists any racking.
The inside edges of the outer wings were finished; covered with 3/32" thick cross grain balsa X 1 1/8" wide save one section as a hard point needs to be added for a wing bolt screw.
I added most of the cap strips using carpenters glue. I weighted the wing down again (at least for the top caps) while gluing the caps down to insure no built in warpage.
Some 3/32" thick balsa sheet was CA'ed to the back of the curved part of the center wing.
Most of the bottom caps were added and the wing parts were sanded to final shape.
The sub LE was sanded and the 1/2" thick balsa LE was glued to each wing.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:55 AM
  #28
samparfitt
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Lower wing:
The lower wing plans are on the opposite side to the upper wings so I rotated the plans.
This time, I measure the LE an equal distance from the table edge to have both plans aligned with each other for final 3 piece wing assembly.
The TE was pinned down and the 1/64"X3/8" wide ply was CA'ed along the back edge.
A paper template is given to cut the inside TE to a curve.
The ribs and wing tip parts were dry fitted.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:19 PM
  #29
samparfitt
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Upper wing (cont)

Block planed and sanded the LE.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:01 PM
  #30
jwrich
 
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I'll be watching, good build, all the pictures sure help explain what you are accomplishing.

Thanks
Rich
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:41 PM
  #31
samparfitt
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Thanks Rich,
It appears not too many are interested in WW I on this 'warbirds and warplanes' sub-forums!
=========

Lower wing (cont)
I cut four new W-6A ribs from aircraft ply. These are the outside ribs that will contact each other for the 3 piece wing.
I also cut a new spar web from aircraft ply that runs the distance of the wing tube box. I put a tick mark on the top of the outside edge of the ply web, drew a line from the tick to the bottom corner and sanded that very fine angle off to give me the minor dihedral needed for the lower wing. Some 2" wide balsa sheeting was also laid along the inside bottom of the wings.
Rib W6 and the spar web was epoxied to the bottom spars and base balsa 2" wide sheeting.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-19-2013 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:43 PM
  #32
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Sam do you think it will be ready for the Dawn Patrol at Dayton September 2014? Several of us Okie Boys will be there. This will be my fourth trip to Dayton. You build quick?

Rich
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:21 AM
  #33
samparfitt
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Rich,
Extrapolating from the previous data that it has taken me about 9 days to do the tail surfaces and the upper wing, I should have the lower wing done in 9 days, say 2 weeks for the fuse, a week for solartex covering, a week for mechanical's/hardware, not counting painting (which won't be done until it's warm), add 20% 'fudge' factor so I should be done around Jan 8, 2014.

==============
Lower wing (cont)
Outer wings (cont)
The ply ribs W11 was drilled out using the hardware for a templage and epoxied to the lower spars.
The two upper spars, sub-LE and 1/4" wide TE in front of the aileron were glued in place with carpenters glue.
The 1/4" thick TE was slot cut for the triple laminate wing tips.
The wing tips were epoxied in place for extra strength.
Ailerons:
The LE of the aileron is triangular shaped with the perpendicular side towards the aileron ribs.
Since the ailerons go to the wing tips, I also slot cut the LE.
For extra strength, I epoxied all the aileron ribs in place.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:07 AM
  #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samparfitt View Post


Rich,
Extrapolating from the previous data that it has taken me about 9 days to do the tail surfaces and the upper wing, I should have the lower wing done in 9 days, say 2 weeks for the fuse, a week for solartex covering, a week for mechanical's/hardware, not counting painting (which won't be done until it's warm), add 20% 'fudge' factor so I should be done around Jan 8, 2014.

==============
Lower wing (cont)
Outer wings (cont)
The ply ribs W11 was drilled out using the hardware for a templage and epoxied to the lower spars.
The two upper spars, sub-LE and 1/4" wide TE in front of the aileron were glued in place with carpenters glue.
The 1/4" thick TE was slot cut for the triple laminate wing tips.
The wing tips were epoxied in place for extra strength.
Ailerons:
The LE of the aileron is triangular shaped with the perpendicular side towards the aileron ribs.
Since the ailerons go to the wing tips, I also slot cut the LE.
For extra strength, I epoxied all the aileron ribs in place.
Extrapolating? Where the heck did you learn this word? Geesh, think you may hurt your nugget if you keep thinking like this.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:30 PM
  #35
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Sam keep up the great work man. Im still checking up on ya. When we stop by he other, your are kicking butt on your 28. I picked up a few trick of the trade from ya. That 64 ply at trainng was just one of them.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:02 AM
  #36
samparfitt
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Randy,
Hey, just normal nomenclature used when you majored in mathematics and minored in physics.

Doug,
Who's going to get their WW I plane done, first (although mine is a lot easier to build).
==========
Lower wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)
The top TE was epoxied to the wing for extra aileron support.
The inner two ribs were trimmed at the back for the curve in the wing and then some balsa sheeting was CA'ed to fill in the open area.
Boxed shear webbed both sides of the main spar up to the wire connections and both sides on the aft spar up to the aileron for extra rigidity.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:46 AM
  #37
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Looks great Sammy and going fast! Haven't started my 'Cat yet. Had to have the guy re-cut the tail parts and still waiting for them. Seems he sent me parts for a completely different kit he makes???

All the best!
Me
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:25 AM
  #38
samparfitt
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Scott,
That 10' hellcat will look cool with the moki 250.
=========

lower wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)
I sanded the wings to get the spars, edges, etc all aligned with the ribs.
I sanded the TE of the wing and LE of the aileron so they align with the ribs. I found this method easier and now I can just CA a cap strip (long wise) and then glue each rib cap strip to butt into the long wise cap strip.
The ailerons were cut from the wing.
The bottom of the TE of the wing in front of the aileron was left with the 3/32" exposure as no sanding was needed to get this aligned with the ribs.
The 1/64" ply kept the TE of the aileron and wing perfectly straight.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:33 AM
  #39
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Sam I'm working on tail feather this week. Things have slowed down here quite a bit. You will probably get your done first. Just.keep plugin along here when is ready for maiden I'll let you know. Hope you'll let me know when your ready. Looking good man.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:58 PM
  #40
samparfitt
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Thanks, Doug,
=======

Lower wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)
I used the supplied hardware to install the wire mount brackets. They go on the outside of the rib (towards the wing tip); one goes straight up and the other towards the fuse. I used my oscillating sander to round over the corners and put a slight angle at the end of the bracket. Some glue to secure the nuts. These have to go in before sheeting the front of the bottom wings.
The wing from the main spar to the LE was sheeted from inboard of the wing to the wire brackets. As with the top wings, weight was applied to insure no warpage.
A notch was put in the outer sheeting for the wire bracket and carpenters glue used to secure the remaining sheeting to the wing tip.

Center wing:
The plans were taped to the table so it aligns with the two outer wing plans.
3/32" thick sheeting was laid on the plans.
All new aircraft ply outer ribs and new inner ribs (W13) were cut and the spars were cut from spruce. The sheer web was also cut from aircraft ply. Parts dry fitted.

Upper wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)
I thought I'd also add the wire brackets to the upper wings but the front holes were marked towards the top of the wing. I should have double checked to insure it was correct instead of 'assuming' the pin hole mark was correct. The back pin holes were correct.
I used a foot long 1/8" diameter drill bit to drill the new holes. The one nearest the bottom of the rib was easy but I had to drill through the rib next to it to get the inner hole drilled. Both holes were at a slight angle to the rib but the 4/40 screw secures well at a slight angle.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-21-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:10 PM
  #41
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Sam,
I warned you those punch marks were wrong back in post number 4.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:06 AM
  #42
samparfitt
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Yep Bruce, you warned me. At my age, I find my short term memory is, well...short! Fortunately, all the important stuff that I've learned in the past is quickly recalled.
==========

Lower wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)

As mentioned previously, I found it easier to sand the tops of the TE of the wing in front of the aileron and LE of the aileron flush so get a nice continuous curve along the top of the ribs. I CA'ed some cap strip, long wise, along the TE of the wing in front of the aileron.

Ailerons:
For the aileron, I marked back 1/8" from the front for the cap strip. Extending this line towards the end of the aileron has the line going off the LE before reaching the end of the aileron since that part curves back (due to LE being a triangular piece of balsa).
I CA'ed another cap strip along this line and then followed the edge of the LE when the line intersected the LE.
This 1/8" piece was sanded off flush to the cap strip which allows space for the nylon hinge pins.
Ribs W9/10 were a little off so I sistered some balsa to the ribs so the tops aligned 3/32" below the front cap strip.
The cap strips were then carpenter glued to the top of the ribs.

outer wings:
The bottom of the wings were sheeted.
Some balsa sheeting was built up around the wire brackets and the cap strips were glued to the top of the ribs.
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:05 PM
  #43
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Lower wings (cont)
outer wings (cont)
Sanded all the surfaces getting smooth transitions from rib caps to LE and TE sheeting. Also, knocked the 90 degree corners off around the TE of the wing in front of the aileron and the LE of the aileron to make it easier to apply the solartex.
The end view of the wing and aileron shows the gap at the tip of the aileron due to the triangular LE. This is needed for clearance when the aileron moves along the hinge axis.
I epoxied the 3/8" thick balsa LE to the wings.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:28 AM
  #44
samparfitt
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Lower wings (cont)
Center wing (cont)
glue up:
The wood ply wing tubes were cut to size for each wing and all three wings were dry fitted together with the 1/4" dihedral on the far W8 wing ribs. The outer ribs (W6) were clamped together for the outer to inner wings to insure no gaps between them. Saran wrap was put on the outside wings to keep glue off them. A 6' long L angle was used to insure the wings were aligned with each other, plus 'eyeballing' the wings.
As previously mentioned, all spars are spruce and sheer webbing is 1/8" thick aircraft ply.
After everything was 'good to go', I lifted up the ribs from the bottom sheeting a small amount so I could slopped on lots of epoxy between the sheeting and ribs and bottom spars with an acid brush. The wings were then weighted down and more epoxy was applied. Epoxy was then applied, individually, to the sheer webbing and top spars, put in there respective positions and more clamps used to hold everything together while it 'cooks'.
As with the upper wings, the outer wing wood ply wing tubes will be epoxied in place after the epoxy dries on the center section.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-23-2013 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:40 AM
  #45
samparfitt
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Lower wings (cont)
The 3 aircraft ply ribs epoxied into the center wing.
Aircraft ply control horn hard point epoxied to bottom of aileron and remaining rib caps added.
After tack gluing the outer wing ply tube boxes and, finding the wings keep their dihedral after removing the two risers, they were epoxied to the wing.
The 3 wings were dry fitted together to insure all is aligned.
The two large balsa blocks were epoxied for and aft of the spars along with the sub-LE.
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:10 PM
  #46
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Amazing build Sam. Thanks for doing such a detailed thread.

David
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:38 PM
  #47
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Hey Sam,
When you get the outer panels and the center section lined up with the proper dihedral, how do you get the wing tube boxes epoxied to the vertical 1/8 ply webbing without taking it apart? Your previous post says you tack it in place and if everything stays lined up, you epoxy the wing tube in place. Wouldn't this also apply to the center section wing tube, or do you epoxy that in place before plugging in the wing panels?

You've now passed me in the build process!
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:55 PM
  #48
samparfitt
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Thanks Dave.
===
Bruce:
I just slop a lot of epoxy at the edge where the box meets the spar. This, along with replacing the ribs along the box with ply should hold it in place. An extra safety could be epoxing some triangular spruce along that edge. The center box gets epoxy between the web and box since I slide the web ply in place after putting epoxy on all the appropriate sides.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:55 PM
  #49
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Lower wings (cont)
Center wing:
I epoxied the front balsa block and sheeted the top and bottom, including the vertical sheeting along the rear. I didn't put those front partial ribs in; I just inserted the whole balsa block in the front. I noticed this area is suppose to be left open, after I noticed several pages back that the dowel hole is drilled from the inside of the center wing.

outer wings:
The servo trays were epoxied using spruce along the edges and rib capping was done. Will have to rip some 5/16" wide strips to finish off the bottom of the upper wing.

Fuse:
I cleared off the table and wing plans and put down the fuse plans.
Since a right and left fuse side is made separately, I cut the pieces at the same time so both sides will be exact (except for the diagonal braces).
The top front has a curve so two 1/4" square sticks are CA'ed together. After having everything pinned down, I just used thin CA to secure all the joints. The usual wax paper laid down to save butchering the plans.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:00 PM
  #50
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Fuse (cont)
The front two sides were re-cut using 1/8" thick aircraft ply. Also, they were cut an extra inch longer in front to move the engine out farther and save adding lead weight for the CG. I have trouble relying on lite ply to secure a large gas engine!
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