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BALSAUSA NIEUPORT 28 1/3 SCALE

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Old 11-24-2013, 04:15 PM
  #51
FokkerD7
 
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Yo Sam when you built the fuse crutch, I noticed you didn't build them on top of each other. Is there much difference other than the cross supports?
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:17 PM
  #52
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Sam, I see you have all the wings and tail pieces grouped together. Just keep them that way. I will be over to pick up my Christmas gift here shortly. You don't have to wrap them. Looking good as always.
Randy
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:14 PM
  #53
samparfitt
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Doug,
I find it easier to build each one separately on the plans. They came out exactly the same.

Randy,
Let's see, working on the plane for 18 days, average 8 hours a day, at 20 bucks an hours,...bring over $2880 in cash and you can have the wings (plus giving me another kit)!
================
Fuse (cont)
After building each fuse side, I laid them on each other to insure both are identical.
The fuse doublers were re-cut using aircraft ply and epoxied to their respective fuse sides.
I also epoxied some lite ply across the butt joints at the rear of each fuse side. I screwed up on these: The bottom one was to get a scarf (splice) joint and the top one was suppose to be continuous.
I also re-cut the top crutch, tank tray and formers F2 and F4 using aircraft ply (all formers that connect to the doublers which is connected to the fire wall).

=====
Ignore the bottom two pictures.
I have no idea how I got the below two pictures attached (and unable to delete them).
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:21 PM
  #54
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Fuse (cont)
The fire wall is to be removable (bolted on) so I made another fire wall with a 1" wide perimeter.
A removable firewall not only makes it easy to set up tank fittings and throttle/choke servos but it gives access to the inside of the fuse.
Since the doublers are an inch longer, the crutch and tank tray were also made an inch longer.
I dry fitted all the components as fine tuning is always needed.
NOTE: doublers go on the inside.
The crutch is pinned down ONLY at the front of the fuse. The top of the fuse curves so only about 5" of the front of the fuse sides touch the plans. I put some shims under the back of the crutch to get aligned with the sides of the fuse. The crutch goes between the doublers. I also dry fitted the two spruce gear mounts.
The tail is held up about 3" off the plans.
I eyeballed the fuse sides to insure they align with the plans.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:30 PM
  #55
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Fuse (cont)
I sorted all the formers to their respective positions on the plans. Two of the formers are on the horizontal stab plans.
Formers are tops/bottoms and sides (no one piece formers).
The formers aren't marked so the pictures in the manual have to be transferred to each balsa sheet. Since there are different formers on each balsa sheet, the former, then, has to be compared to the plans to know how to label each former. It took a little while but I think I've got 'em all placed correctly.
Formers F3A and BP1 needs notches cut for 1/4" square stringers.
I think F3D goes behind the bottom wing.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:36 PM
  #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samparfitt View Post


Doug,
I find it easier to build each one separately on the plans. They came out exactly the same.

Randy,
Let's see, working on the plane for 18 days, average 8 hours a day, at 20 bucks an hours,...bring over $2880 in cash and you can have the wings (plus giving me another kit)!
================
Fuse (cont)
After building each fuse side, I laid them on each other to insure both are identical.
The fuse doublers were re-cut using aircraft ply and epoxied to their respective fuse sides.
I also epoxied some lite ply across the butt joints at the rear of each fuse side. I screwed up on these: The bottom one was to get a scarf (splice) joint and the top one was suppose to be continuous.
I also re-cut the top crutch, tank tray and formers F2 and F4 using aircraft ply (all formers that connect to the doublers which is connected to the fire wall).

=====
Ignore the bottom two pictures.
I have no idea how I got the below two pictures attached (and unable to delete them).
Sam,
will you take a check?
randy
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:37 PM
  #57
samparfitt
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Hey, obviously you can't read!
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:59 PM
  #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samparfitt View Post
Hey, obviously you can't read!
I can read, just was hoping I would catch you at a weak moment.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:30 AM
  #59
samparfitt
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Randy,
The only time I might weaken is if you were insanely beautify 30 year old female twins....and then, I'd probably still decide on the hobby side!
Like the story goes:
A 90 year old guy was golfing and hit his ball into the woods. While looking for it, a frog said to him, kiss me and I'll turn into a beautiful young princess. The old guy picks up the frog and puts her in his pocket. The frog says: didn't you hear me, kiss me and I'll turn into a beautiful young princess. The old guy says: I have no need for a beautify young princess, but a talking frog, I can use that!
============

Fuse (cont)
Glue up.
I partially disassembled the parts (enough to get epoxy into all the joints), mixed up a ton of epoxy and slopped it on the parts with an acid brush and re-clamped and checked alignment. Next, I epoxied F4 to the fuse sides along with it's two 1/4"X1/2" balsa cross members and the tail section, eyeballing the fuse sides are aligned with the plans.
While that was cooking, I cut all the cross members (1/4"X1/2") for formers F5 through F8. By then, the front parts were secure, so I epoxied all the cross members to their respective positions and double checked alignment.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:50 PM
  #60
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Fuse (cont)b
Formers F1B, F2B and F3B and 1/4" square stringers were installed.
Any piece that supports an engine, wings or landing gear is getting aircraft ply.
The balsa sheet former F1B was re-cut to aircraft ply (the metal cowls wooden mounts are attached to this).
F1B/2B/3B were dry fitted along with the stringers to insure the stringers are perfectly straight using a builder's T (the last time I tried, sheeted balsa is not going around a compound curve).
F2B was too high and required 1/8" removed from the base.
These formers and stringers were all epoxied into place.
A tick mark was placed on each former and frame to get proper alignment on the 'glue up'.
The top triangular piece was dry fitted and sanded for perfectly straight and epoxied in place.
F3B needed a shim below the triangular piece to get perfect alignment.
An access hole was cut in the new aircraft ply F1B that replaced the balsa F1B.
The opposite side was also done.
Former F2B needed an angled 1/8" cut off the base for proper alignment.
FW1 has guide wires attached to it so it was re-cut with aircraft ply.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-26-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:11 PM
  #61
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The cowl, gear wire and some ply come in another box.

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Old 11-27-2013, 10:04 AM
  #62
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Fuse (cont)
Fifteen No4X1/2" screws put into the sub-fire wall via the outside 1/8" thick aircraft ply doublers and crutch (mandatory for any gas mounted engine).
The back top wire support gets some 1/8" thick ply epoxied to the wood mount.
F!A/2A/2D re-cut to aircraft ply. Top wire mounts sanded to match fuse contour.
The center former (F2A) needed 1/16" sanded from the bottom and the corners sanded to align with the rest of the fuse.
I found doing the two sides first and the top last to be easiest to get all formers and stringers perfectly straight to a straight edge.

Paint ball gun:
Some 1/8" thick aircraft ply was epoxied to the top stringers and formers to support the gun with screws. There is limited placement of the gun with the stringers, formers and lighting holes in the crutch.

Lower side wire guide formers.
The formers were sanded until they put no bending on the stringers (that must be keep straight), The wire support brackets were screwed to some 1/4"X1/2" spruce and then epoxied to the formers. Will wait on installing these as it'll be easier to lay the 1/32" thick sheeting over the formers and stringers and mark the location to cut out a slit for the bracket.
Former F3A was epoxied in place (back of cockpit).
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-27-2013 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:37 PM
  #63
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Fuse (cont)
Top front ply added (1/32" thick):
I lucked out as the ply was long enough to cover my additional 1" of fuse lengthening.
I put tick marks 1/2" down from the cabana holes so I can locate them after putting on the top ply.
I also put tick marks to find the center of the triangular stock on each side where the top ply ends.
A center line was added to the top ply and pinned to the top stringer. Some masking tape was used to hold the ply to the fuse while I put tick marks indicating where to cut on each side of the top ply.
The bottom of the ply was marked to indicate where contact with the fuse will be made.
A ton of epoxy was mixed and slopped on the fuse and ply, and then taped and clamped together...very quickly.

Bottom wing (cont)
Next step is to put the formers along the bottom of the fuse so I needed to finish sanding the LE so I could dry fit the center wing onto the fuse.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:31 PM
  #64
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Happy turkey Sammy
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:10 AM
  #65
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Happy Thanksgiving to you and the whole family! Enjoy your day with the kids and grandkiddies! Miss ya Sammy. BTW, it's 38 degrees this morning. Perfect Turkey Day weather.
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:56 PM
  #66
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Doug and Scott,
I had plenty to eat, yesterday. Gave most of the turkey away so I should only have leftovers for 3-4 days.
==============

Fuse (cont)

I cut two rectangular holes in the top sheeting and screwed the paint ball gun to the sub-1/8" thick ply under the sheeting. I'll have to make a strap to hold the front of the gun. I routed the gas hose so I can install the tank from the cockpit. Some spruce was epoxied and screwed to the fuse doublers. With that tank hanging off the mount, I figure some screws along with the epoxy was the safe way to go. I screwed the 1/4" ply mount to the two sides in for future maintenance.
Formers F1C/D were recut using aircraft ply: These attach to the landing gear mount and wing so they are 'up graded' from balsa.
I had to sister some ply onto F1D to get proper alignment, insuring there was a straight line from former F1C all the way back to F8.
The wing mount was epoxied and then former F3D was also re-cut to aircraft ply and epoxied about a 1/2" back from the TE of the center wing. F3D is suppose to be directly behind the wing but I assumed the solid balsa block that went in the center wing was the correct depth. For extra strength to the wing mount, I epoxied some ply between the wing mount and F3D.
Former F3C has no wing or gear bearing load so it was glued in as it's original balsa form.
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:58 PM
  #67
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Fuse (cont)
Gas hose connecting the gun to the tank. The tank is threaded onto the hose.
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:58 PM
  #68
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fuse (cont)
Some 3/32" thick sheeting was epoxied over the saddle which gives the 1/32" thick ply something to butt against.
I dry fitted the outside ply sheeting and the only way to hold the one edge to the adjacent top sheeting edge was to clamp an L bracket along the entire length. Even then, the ply being so thin and some flexing of the L bracket, I had to use some razor saws as shims to push the ply down to align with the top sheeting. I think I'll 'sleep on this' before epoxying this sheet to insure it's my best option. Initially, tape is used to hold the sheeting in a relative close position.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:23 AM
  #69
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Fuse (cont)
Side sheet glue up.
The only extra thing I did was put some masking tape along the existing edge to keep the epoxy off of the surface.
The instructions suggest using thick CA and doing the sheeting in 'halves'. I'm more comfortable with epoxy, doing both surfaces and then quickly taping/clamping the parts together. I didn't try to cut the bottom edge to align up with the 1/4" stringers but just left the sheeting overhang them. I figured there were too many variables and would be easier to trim more accurately, after the glue up.
The two critical areas to secure first is the edge mating the top sheeting and getting the sheeting inside the wing saddle sheeting. I first taped the two corners adjacent to the top sheeting and then bent the sheeting to contact the saddle area. Long pieces of masking tape was then applied from the center, out, working first the edge that met the top sheeting and securing the bottom since that area is a variable.
There's a 2"X4" area that is to be cut out so I didn't add epoxy to that area. Also, I thought it would be difficult to bolt the wire bracket after the sheeting was on so I left a 2" square area, unglued, where the FW1 and bracket is to be placed. I'll cut the sheeting out, glue in the former w/bracket and glue the cover back on. During the glue up, I checked internally to insure the sheeting was making good contact with the stringers and formers. Masking tape about every 4" worked well to hold the sheeting to the fuse.
The long L angle worked well with the addition of some thin metal (razor saws) to help hold the thin edge ply to the surface.
I didn't try to put any epoxy where the sheeting met the wing saddle. After the sheeting was secured, I added some thin CA along that joint. After the epoxy was dry, I sanded the saddle flush to the ply and then slopped on some epoxy along that joint from the inside of the fuse.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-30-2013 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:35 AM
  #70
samparfitt
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Fuse (cont)
FW-1 former with bracket install.
I cut and sanded the ply sheeting so it was flush with the front of the fire wall.
I drew in the 2"X4" outline for the access panel plus the new 2"X2" panel for the FW-1 former. I used a diamond impregnated cut off disk for the 2X4 hole. I used a brand new xacto blade to cut the 2X2 hole since the piece will be glued back in place after the FW-1 is installed.
I CA'ed some corner supports for the 2X2 piece, transferred the bracket location onto the piece and cut the hole out and dry fitted the parts.
Epoxy was then applied with an acid brush to the FW-1 former, the 2X2 piece then was CA'ed in place.
The bottom of the side sheeting was also cut with a gentle curve using an xacto blade.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 11-30-2013 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:59 PM
  #71
FokkerD7
 
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looks like your moving right along Sam. looks good bud.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:49 PM
  #72
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fuse (cont)
Right side sheeting epoxied to the fuse (same procedure as the left).
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:33 AM
  #73
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Fuse (cont)

front ply sheeting:
The ply overhangs the former along with the stringers so a line was marked and a diamond impregnated cutoff disk was used to trim away the waste.
The ply behind the bottom wing was epoxied and taped after trimmed to the needed size. With a cone type bevel, the two long edges had to be rounded by about an 1/8" for a good fit.
Presently, I'm not installing the front bottom ply as I may want to install an access hatch there for switches, etc.

Wire brackets:
The wire brackets over the bottom wing were installed. A slot was cut in the ply sheeting and a 1/8" hole was drilled on the inside doubler to hold the bracket in place. I found it easiest to cut a rectangular slot in the balsa wing seat sheeting to get the nut started and then put epoxy on it to secure it. The provided bolt was too short so I just used a hex head 1" #4 bolt. A piece of bass wood was epoxied on the inside above the wire bracket to keep it from flexing.

Tail skid:
I couldn't find any bass wood in the kit so I just ripped some news ones on the table saw, epoxied all the pieces together and then epoxied it to the bottom of the fuse. With a WW II plane, I would have re-cut some aircraft ply to hold the retractable landing tail gear but, since this is just a tail skid, I figure the lite ply is good enough.

Formers F4-8 install:
The stringers are 1/4" square and are glued in proud of the surface of the formers; after which, the pointed edge is sanded about a 1/16" down to lay even with the formers.
Former F4A needed some trimming to match the F3 former before gluing in place.
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Last edited by samparfitt; 12-02-2013 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:27 AM
  #74
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Wow! Going fast and looking good.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:00 PM
  #75
samparfitt
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Yo Scott,
When you're retired you can get a lot done. Retired, I should get at least 8 hours a day being creative versus watching the idiot box. The corollary of the old saying: when you're on your death bed, no one ever says 'I wish I would have worked more' is also, 'I wish I would have watched more TV'. One thing you can't ever get back is time. I told my kids that if they ever see me sitting in a rocker all day watching the boob tube, just shoot me and put me out of my misery.
============

Fuse (cont)
I dry fitted the top formers F4-8 with a straight stringer to insure all is aligned. I epoxied the formers to the fuse (quick and sturdy) but I used carpenters glue on the stringers. Did the left side and then the right. I didn't worry about alternating the two sides as with the top stringers on, I figured no fuse warp would occur.
mmm; the picture never lies, I noticed two bottom side stringers bowing in a little from W5 former radius being a little too small: will have to fix that.
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