P-40 Brotherhood (All P-40's Welcome)
#1376
I lost my VQ P-40 last spring. Transmitter failure. I had spent some time over the winter refarbrishing. Recovered tail surfaces top of fuselage in front of canopy, leading edges etc. Put Bowman ring in the DLE 20 and did his recommended reed valve treatment. Engine ran good. Went in at a shallow angle but was totaled. Most of the hardware survived. Found a Top Flite 60 sized ARF. Finally got it together and now have three flights on it. It is the best flying P-40 that I have had. Flies much better than the kit built Top Flite I and a little better than the VQ. Also was able to use the hardware from the VQ, retracts, structs, engine, most servos and other misc. Don't know why it was discontinued. Here is the old VQ and the new Top Flite.
#1381
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Location: Beaumont, TX
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Its been a while for me but last October I got hands on a Top Flite GS P-40. I modified the vertical fin to convert into a K. I'm Getting it ready for Top Gun this year... I'm a little behind schedule but I'll get it finished. I need desperate help making a sliding canopy out of the one provided with the arf.
#1382
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Great Job !
The canopy is super easy ! If you want my opinion use the Fergelli linear servos. You can use one if your handy, it's a simple U attached to Y type home made push rod. The Fergelli linear servo will give you more then enought scale movement front to back. Some guys don't want to fool with a push rod so they use two Fergelli servos ( one on each side ).
I have always used one, they are about $70 bucks a piece but reliable, easy and very scale in movement. Simple plug and play.
I make my own canopy rails with a a dremil wheel on a drill press. All you need to do is buy stock square K&S brass rails, make an L shaped jig from wood to allow the rail to be pressed hard against the jig during the cuttting. You turn on drill press , set the proper height of the cuttting wheel so it hits the center of the brass rail and you simply make a slow controlled pass to get a good straight cut in one side the rail.
Sand and clean the cut , make two in the length you need.
When attaching the canopy to the rail you have options.
1) simple car ball links that slide in the rail and are screwed into the canopy
2)plastic H frame that slides into the rail and is glued into the inside of the canopy
If you Google P40 sliding canopy Fergelli servos you will see many of these options , some are of my planes.
I would suggest a simple animated pilot to go with your canopy .
Again super easy ! Take any full body pilot, remove the head, hands and feet . Rebuilt the body from foam and balsa . Add a servo at the torso and one in the chest. The servo at the torso is for left right movement and the servo at the head is up and down movement. I use cheap micro $10 servos.
Attach servos to aileron and elavator with y links and the pilot moves with the plane actions. One more step attached a control stick with a bendy wire, now attach your pilots hand to the control stick --guess what he now moves the control stick with his body movement
The canopy is super easy ! If you want my opinion use the Fergelli linear servos. You can use one if your handy, it's a simple U attached to Y type home made push rod. The Fergelli linear servo will give you more then enought scale movement front to back. Some guys don't want to fool with a push rod so they use two Fergelli servos ( one on each side ).
I have always used one, they are about $70 bucks a piece but reliable, easy and very scale in movement. Simple plug and play.
I make my own canopy rails with a a dremil wheel on a drill press. All you need to do is buy stock square K&S brass rails, make an L shaped jig from wood to allow the rail to be pressed hard against the jig during the cuttting. You turn on drill press , set the proper height of the cuttting wheel so it hits the center of the brass rail and you simply make a slow controlled pass to get a good straight cut in one side the rail.
Sand and clean the cut , make two in the length you need.
When attaching the canopy to the rail you have options.
1) simple car ball links that slide in the rail and are screwed into the canopy
2)plastic H frame that slides into the rail and is glued into the inside of the canopy
If you Google P40 sliding canopy Fergelli servos you will see many of these options , some are of my planes.
I would suggest a simple animated pilot to go with your canopy .
Again super easy ! Take any full body pilot, remove the head, hands and feet . Rebuilt the body from foam and balsa . Add a servo at the torso and one in the chest. The servo at the torso is for left right movement and the servo at the head is up and down movement. I use cheap micro $10 servos.
Attach servos to aileron and elavator with y links and the pilot moves with the plane actions. One more step attached a control stick with a bendy wire, now attach your pilots hand to the control stick --guess what he now moves the control stick with his body movement
Last edited by LDM; 03-19-2016 at 01:36 AM.
#1383
My Feedback: (15)
[h=3]P40 Sliding Canopy - YouTube[/h]YouTube › watch
Duration: 0:44
Posted: Sep 17, 2012
Lou DiMarco's 79" P40 using one of Firgelli's L12-100 ...
This is one of the FUN scale projects , pilot only has head servo, later I added a Torso servos
Duration: 0:44
Posted: Sep 17, 2012
Lou DiMarco's 79" P40 using one of Firgelli's L12-100 ...
This is one of the FUN scale projects , pilot only has head servo, later I added a Torso servos
#1384
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Thanks,
I Don't quite have the time to make it operational. I just need it to open so I can put my switches and such in the cockpit. I'll open and close it by hand. But the way the canopy is made, I don't want to screw it up, being that they are all on back order and such.
I Don't quite have the time to make it operational. I just need it to open so I can put my switches and such in the cockpit. I'll open and close it by hand. But the way the canopy is made, I don't want to screw it up, being that they are all on back order and such.
#1385
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Many may know about the Spitfire Brotherhood thread here on RCU. I started that thread to allow those who wanted to share build tips, information, and photos of their Spitfire aircraft.
Because of the great response that thread has received and continues to receive I wanted to do the same for another seldom seen RC aircraft as compared to others.
I have always admired the P-40 since it was in fact the first WWII fighter aircraft to encounter our then enemy in the Pacific West, and also to have reaped havoc against the Luftwaffe along side in some cases the Spitfire.
A lot of air battles we fought and won by these two aircraft before the more popular and out performing fighters joined the fight.
With this in mind, Welcome to the P-40 Brotherhood
Steve Keesey
P-40 Brotherhood #1
Talimena Kidd
P-40 Brotherhood #1.5
Chad Veich
P-40 Brotherhood #2
Because of the great response that thread has received and continues to receive I wanted to do the same for another seldom seen RC aircraft as compared to others.
I have always admired the P-40 since it was in fact the first WWII fighter aircraft to encounter our then enemy in the Pacific West, and also to have reaped havoc against the Luftwaffe along side in some cases the Spitfire.
A lot of air battles we fought and won by these two aircraft before the more popular and out performing fighters joined the fight.
With this in mind, Welcome to the P-40 Brotherhood
Steve Keesey
P-40 Brotherhood #1
Talimena Kidd
P-40 Brotherhood #1.5
Chad Veich
P-40 Brotherhood #2
Cool, i'm number 3? lol....JK. What number am I assigned?
Thanks!!
Jack Devine P-40
#1386
I lost my Giant Scale Planes/CMP P-40 last fall. It should never have happened. The reason - unexpected failure due to fuel starvation. This story hurts.
My engine was a YS-1.20 FS, which is very quiet at idle. I had fueled the model as usual. Fuel it until it runs out of the overflow vent, and plug the vents (It's a pressure fuel system).
I took off and had flown maybe five minutes when I decided to make an approach. I lowered flaps on downwind and reduced power and turned base.
When I made my turn to final, it went out of control (tip stalled actually) and went in. I thought I had a radio failure. In any case the model was a total loss.
As I tore into it back in the pits, I noticed my fuel tank was empty. The tank was not damaged in the crash, so I couldn't figure it out. I know I had filled it to overflow. Back home I removed the tank from the remains of the nose section. I had a rattle in the tank and it was not the clunk......That's weird...... The brass vent line going to the top of the tank had broken off, so I only had a half tank of furl instead of a full tank.. Another guy was flying his much louder model, so I had not heard my engine quit. When I pulled a little up to make the turn to final, it stall and spun in.
That was a hard one to lose considering the way it happened. The model was about nine or ten years old, so the brass had corroded in the bend due to the nitro (so I've been told). If you are flying an older model using glow fuel with a high nitro content (the YS calls for 20%), it might save you a model if you check the condition of your tank and plumbing.
Joe
My engine was a YS-1.20 FS, which is very quiet at idle. I had fueled the model as usual. Fuel it until it runs out of the overflow vent, and plug the vents (It's a pressure fuel system).
I took off and had flown maybe five minutes when I decided to make an approach. I lowered flaps on downwind and reduced power and turned base.
When I made my turn to final, it went out of control (tip stalled actually) and went in. I thought I had a radio failure. In any case the model was a total loss.
As I tore into it back in the pits, I noticed my fuel tank was empty. The tank was not damaged in the crash, so I couldn't figure it out. I know I had filled it to overflow. Back home I removed the tank from the remains of the nose section. I had a rattle in the tank and it was not the clunk......That's weird...... The brass vent line going to the top of the tank had broken off, so I only had a half tank of furl instead of a full tank.. Another guy was flying his much louder model, so I had not heard my engine quit. When I pulled a little up to make the turn to final, it stall and spun in.
That was a hard one to lose considering the way it happened. The model was about nine or ten years old, so the brass had corroded in the bend due to the nitro (so I've been told). If you are flying an older model using glow fuel with a high nitro content (the YS calls for 20%), it might save you a model if you check the condition of your tank and plumbing.
Joe
#1388
is #133 taken yet ?
1. Warbirdrcer OK, USA
1.5. Talimena Kidd OK, USA
2. Chad Veich AZ, USA
3. dasintex TX, USA
4. Meschmidt TX, USA
5. gaumflyer Gaum, USA
6. gaumflyer’s Dad Gaum, USA
7. tp777fo SC, USA
8. Dash7ATP VA, USA
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40. Ford34tom WA, USA
41. doolittles ME, USA
42. SPEED51J FL, USA
43. P-39 fan WI, USA
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109. JRFan Canada
110. Warbirdbob FL, USA
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115. kaikokid New Zealand
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129. puncho1
130. terminater007
131. warhwk
132. Eldher
133. rickman2k
????????????????????
1. Warbirdrcer OK, USA
1.5. Talimena Kidd OK, USA
2. Chad Veich AZ, USA
3. dasintex TX, USA
4. Meschmidt TX, USA
5. gaumflyer Gaum, USA
6. gaumflyer’s Dad Gaum, USA
7. tp777fo SC, USA
8. Dash7ATP VA, USA
9. 77chickenhawk CA, USA
10. ccostant MA, USA
11. Capt G NV, USA
12. RBean PA, USA
13. P-40 Driver TX, USA
14. LQUAN CA, USA
15. raptureboy PA, USA
16. SVX UT, USA
17. AmishWarlord NC, USA
18. Duplicator41 ID, USA
19. gregandhollie IN, USA
20. LDM PA, USA
21. spadsriver09 IN, USA
22. mobyal VA, USA
23. Ram-bro NE, USA
24. Lifer MO, USA
25. Peter OZ Queensland, Australia
26. tocstrum NJ, USA
27. Barron VA, USA
28. darren763 MN, USA
29. DrYankum NJ, USA
30. M Callahan OH, USA
31. gsmarino2000 CO, USA
32. Cpt Crash NM, USA
33. proffj550 NM, USA
34. psheffield AZ, USA
35. Quikturn IA, USA
36. trent smith Australia
37. wireman NJ, USA
38. jblloyd MS, USA
39. Dave Bugz U.K.
40. Ford34tom WA, USA
41. doolittles ME, USA
42. SPEED51J FL, USA
43. P-39 fan WI, USA
44. US185Damiani PA, USA
45. bookmaker FL, USA
46. 108buzz NJ, USA
47. Naval Flight Officer FL, USA
48. Super Chief GA, USA
49. n8622t AR, USA
50. jetster MI, USA
51. predman CA, USA
52. jet22b WA, USA
53. askham Dragor, Denmark
54. rppoind TX, USA
55. Antoinebobrob Beijing, China
56. NoFlaps KY, USA
57. yard-dart LA, USA
58. 2muchfun MO, USA
59. skull1971 TX, USA
60. raaf Adelaide, Australia
61. tardster IL, USA
62. mike early KY, USA
63. Hot Rod Todd IA, USA
64. Yogi CT, USA
65. Woody218-RCU ND, USA
66. RPRCBuilder OK, USA
67. p510851 NJ, USA
68. rebranger AL, USA
69. DAKOTANOVASS ND, USA
70. lomcevac540T NC, USA
71. Texan2 TX, USA
72. Texan2’s Dad
73. Eray2012 KY, USA
74. Lormuhl WA, USA
75. Sonofasailor KY, USA
76. mpro326 GA, USA
77. Aluminum Overcast MI, USA
78. lrb75 VA, USA
79. bleinmiller KS, USA
80. bigtim CA, USA
81. blainer48 NE, USA
82. Corsair2013 UT, USA
83. top gun reed MO, USA
84. scale_sloper
85. CAPT. DAN IN, USA
86. gjhinshaw MO, USA
87. Need for Speed RCU IA, USA
88. Jaybird ME, USA
89. rcjake AZ, USA
90. RCGuy41 MD, USA
91. elmshoot IN, USA
92. Hawk131 CO, USA
93. dutchy50 Australia
94. Jinxx HI, USA
95. Jim Branaum TX, USA
96. 64helipilot UT, USA
97. hairy46 WY, USA
98. bsovermars Canada
99. peruse12 Australia
100. warbirdmustang KY, USA
101. rcmiker MI, USA
102. GIVdriver NE, USA
103. Fly2XS MN, USA
104. Cobra1 MD, USA
105. SWORDSN SC, USA
106. C.O. IL, USA
107. hsukaria MI, USA
108. draftman1 CA, USA
109. JRFan Canada
110. Warbirdbob FL, USA
111. Magnum RC OR, USA
112. dbsonic CA, USA
113. Avaiojet FL, USA
114. Lightning 759
115. kaikokid New Zealand
116. Matt Smailes
117. FlyingJ664
118. LordAndreas
119. aghost TX, USA
120. smurfjet NM, USA
121. magwie SC, USA
122. Packrat74 TX, USA
123. Simple CA, USA
124. clive NSW Australia
125. Kevin Perry Canada
126. dgiatr Greece
127. YellowAircraft CA, USA
128. jeffEE MN, USA
129. puncho1
130. terminater007
131. warhwk
132. Eldher
133. rickman2k
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#1389
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I posted this in the Q&A forum before I saw this one. I have a Hangar 9 with electric retracts. both gear are not locking in the down position indicated by a huge amount of slop. any suggestions on how to adjust the gear? I bought this model used, but never flown, so I don't know who made the retracts.
#1393
tahustvedt
I'm not sure if this is the same P-40 as the one I had. Mine was from Giant Scale Models, which I heard was actually CMP. What is the span on your P-40? I have allways liked the P-40, but the nose art on that one had to bew about the ugliest one ever. Still, a good looking model.
I'm not sure if this is the same P-40 as the one I had. Mine was from Giant Scale Models, which I heard was actually CMP. What is the span on your P-40? I have allways liked the P-40, but the nose art on that one had to bew about the ugliest one ever. Still, a good looking model.
#1394
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I think they were the same, cost around 200.00 I had one but sold it in kit form. Had the Hellcat one too. Good deal back in the day (2005). I think the closest to it now is the ESM but the price is more than double.
#1395
I own the plane too and i can hardly tell its a cmpro p-40! Sliding canopy, cockpit, scale wheels, prop and exhaust add a lot the total look of the plane.
Well done! I could never image a cmpro p-40 could be so scale...
#1397
#1398
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Yeah it does fly great. Mine is ten years now. Here's an old video with the stock paintjob: https://youtu.be/YQ95gR9yQM4
#1400
Hell P-40s. I´ve just done some P-40 stickers for those who like bumper sticker or want to have this P-40 sticker. I can make them from black or white 7years vinyls. Maximum size of the longest side is 10" (250 mm).