P-40 Brotherhood (All P-40's Welcome)
#1529
3 sizes of resin exhaust stacks designed for P-40E Warhawk. The smallest set was designed for .60 TopFlite P-40. The bigger will work with ESM, JerryBates, GS TopFlite and Ziroli´s Warhawks
#1532
My Feedback: (1)
.60 size P-40 Retracts and Struts (what I came up with)
hi guys, so after just about a year of researching rotating retracts for a .60 size P-40 I came to the point that I believe that the Eflights 60/120 95 Degree Rotaters have no more complaints than units costing $100 more,, actually in a couple cases I will say I believe the Eflights have less complaints. to add, I like the way the Eflight's mechanics are designed more than those costing $100 more,, see, the Eflights have a simple design that other brands will most likely take notice of, the Eflights don't have a cheaply Stamped steel Gear that meshes into the side of the Aluminum Frame, a steel gear meshing into aluminum is not a very good thing with the amount of vibration a Retract has to put up with..
well, I received my Eflights the other day and they seemed to be pretty nice, I was very surprised to see just how smooth they do work, and they are smooth, they are rated for planes up to 15 pounds, and my VQ .60 P-40 should come in around 9 to 10 pounds.
Struts,
now it seems to me, if the 60/120 size Eflight Retracts are rated for up to a 15 pound plane their 60/120 Struts should also be rated for 15 pounds, so at that I feel they will have too much spring for my P-40 weighing in around 9 to 10 pounds, so I will be buying the Robart 3/8 Robo Struts, these struts are rated for up to 12 pounds..
so, things are starting to come together..
Jim
hi guys, so after just about a year of researching rotating retracts for a .60 size P-40 I came to the point that I believe that the Eflights 60/120 95 Degree Rotaters have no more complaints than units costing $100 more,, actually in a couple cases I will say I believe the Eflights have less complaints. to add, I like the way the Eflight's mechanics are designed more than those costing $100 more,, see, the Eflights have a simple design that other brands will most likely take notice of, the Eflights don't have a cheaply Stamped steel Gear that meshes into the side of the Aluminum Frame, a steel gear meshing into aluminum is not a very good thing with the amount of vibration a Retract has to put up with..
well, I received my Eflights the other day and they seemed to be pretty nice, I was very surprised to see just how smooth they do work, and they are smooth, they are rated for planes up to 15 pounds, and my VQ .60 P-40 should come in around 9 to 10 pounds.
Struts,
now it seems to me, if the 60/120 size Eflight Retracts are rated for up to a 15 pound plane their 60/120 Struts should also be rated for 15 pounds, so at that I feel they will have too much spring for my P-40 weighing in around 9 to 10 pounds, so I will be buying the Robart 3/8 Robo Struts, these struts are rated for up to 12 pounds..
so, things are starting to come together..
Jim
#1533
My Feedback: (16)
Hi Wasp,
I went through the same thing you are going through with retracts. I tried the Robart #615 rotating retracts with 3/8th Robo struts and all I had was problems. The Robo struts would come loose and spin around causing toe in or toe out. This would cause the plane to nose over on it nose or flip completely. I went to these retracts and I have never looked back. www.serriagiant.com If you total up the cost of the Eflite retracts and then the 3/8" ROBO struts you are 50 less then these retracts and the struts come with them, made for them. It's your call....
Gost Rider/Larry
I went through the same thing you are going through with retracts. I tried the Robart #615 rotating retracts with 3/8th Robo struts and all I had was problems. The Robo struts would come loose and spin around causing toe in or toe out. This would cause the plane to nose over on it nose or flip completely. I went to these retracts and I have never looked back. www.serriagiant.com If you total up the cost of the Eflite retracts and then the 3/8" ROBO struts you are 50 less then these retracts and the struts come with them, made for them. It's your call....
Gost Rider/Larry
#1536
My Feedback: (1)
Hi Wasp,
I went through the same thing you are going through with retracts. I tried the Robart #615 rotating retracts with 3/8th Robo struts and all I had was problems. The Robo struts would come loose and spin around causing toe in or toe out. This would cause the plane to nose over on it nose or flip completely. I went to these retracts and I have never looked back. www.serriagiant.com If you total up the cost of the Eflite retracts and then the 3/8" ROBO struts you are 50 less then these retracts and the struts come with them, made for them. It's your call....
Gost Rider/Larry
I went through the same thing you are going through with retracts. I tried the Robart #615 rotating retracts with 3/8th Robo struts and all I had was problems. The Robo struts would come loose and spin around causing toe in or toe out. This would cause the plane to nose over on it nose or flip completely. I went to these retracts and I have never looked back. www.serriagiant.com If you total up the cost of the Eflite retracts and then the 3/8" ROBO struts you are 50 less then these retracts and the struts come with them, made for them. It's your call....
Gost Rider/Larry
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 02-06-2018 at 01:08 AM.
#1541
My Feedback: (1)
thank you for the information,, it's very helpful.
the Eflights work very smoothly and their framing as well as the machining is very nice, and they are rated for up to 15 pounds, but the wire is only .009" larger than on the Robart 615, and .009" is not much more to be secure about, but a larger Retract wont fit my plane without cutting and filing wood, and I already have the Eflights (not mounded yet)
no mater what struts I buy I have to shorten, so as for now I am thinking about just buying the Eflight Struts because they will fit the wire, and drilling/taping 4 Setscrew holes after shortening them.
thanks again
Jim
#1542
Hey guys, I'm building the Ziroli P-40 and I have a question. What is the proper way to check dihedral? On the plans it says that it should be 4 1/8" at W-11 but not sure how to place the wing to take that measurement. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it wasnt obvious by now, I have never built any type of kit. Been flying giant warbirds since late 2000's but never built one myself.
#1543
My Feedback: (34)
Hey guys, I'm building the Ziroli P-40 and I have a question. What is the proper way to check dihedral? On the plans it says that it should be 4 1/8" at W-11 but not sure how to place the wing to take that measurement. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it wasnt obvious by now, I have never built any type of kit. Been flying giant warbirds since late 2000's but never built one myself.
Jerry
#1544
My Feedback: (34)
Hey guys, I'm building the Ziroli P-40 and I have a question. What is the proper way to check dihedral? On the plans it says that it should be 4 1/8" at W-11 but not sure how to place the wing to take that measurement. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it wasnt obvious by now, I have never built any type of kit. Been flying giant warbirds since late 2000's but never built one myself.
Look carefully at the plans....does it show 4 1/8" at W-11 on BOTH W-11's or only one? If it is on only one wingtip, that means the other one is flat on the workbench. I'm assuming that will be the case.
Jerry
#1545
Thanks Jerry, didnt think of that. The plans show only one wingtip but it also happens to be sheeted. Not sure if that will make any difference. I only have the halves clamped together right now. I have been hesitant to epoxy them and sheet the wing until I get that squared away. I did however triple check the " rib angle plate" as per the plans and it is spot on. That seems to be what determines the dihedral since it is on the first two ribs. I will have to figure out how to lay the one side flat since I already have the landing gear ribs and blocks in place.
#1546
Hi, this may help,
https://forum.largemodelassociation....php?f=9&t=6186
Maiden flights yesterday, superb. I jigged both panels up at W-11
cheers,
https://forum.largemodelassociation....php?f=9&t=6186
Maiden flights yesterday, superb. I jigged both panels up at W-11
cheers,
#1547
gotcha. Basically just recreated what was on the building board just high enough to clear the mounts. So you just sheeted there instead of joining the two wing halves first?? Please excuse my ignorance but for me this is a huge piece of the puzzle. Thanks again.
#1548
Hi,
I built the panels on one inch square box section so the protruding retract ribs cleared the bench. Once each panel was completed i only added just enough sheeting to hold in the washout when removed from the jig to join together, which was done on my normal bench. I always make balsa standoffs at the required height and temp glue them to the rib where needed to ensure all is well. Once the panels are joined, remove them.
cheers,
I built the panels on one inch square box section so the protruding retract ribs cleared the bench. Once each panel was completed i only added just enough sheeting to hold in the washout when removed from the jig to join together, which was done on my normal bench. I always make balsa standoffs at the required height and temp glue them to the rib where needed to ensure all is well. Once the panels are joined, remove them.
cheers,
#1550
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Orange,
NJ
Posts: 1,334
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You go at least half way down each wing half. I usually go all the way out to the tip' Depending on the size wing, I might go half way webbing both sides of the spar and as I pass half I do only one side to the tip. Now I must state I`m not a gram hog and a little extra weight don`t scare me. I rather the extra weight because to me the plane flies better, more stable doesn`t wonder all over the place on hot days. Now if you like your planes super light then half to 2/3 the way is fine.