rcwarbirdbuilder

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I have had my eye on this twin for awhile but have put it off since I have to many projects now, I went ahead and ordered it a couple of weeks ago from VQ models. The plane arrived in a big box with no damages, the packaging was good, the plane looks nicely done for a arf. Specs are 71" lenght, 95" wing span, flying weight 19.8 pounds, engine .91 4 cycle, ( I well be using 20cc gasser).

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I will be using two Aerovate 20cc gas engines I ordered with the BF-110 from VQ models, the price is nice, the engines and the plane came out to $850 plus $149 shipping.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I don't like working with rear carb engines such as this, but it looked like most of the small gassers have rear carbs. My main concern was that the carb well be sticking into the firewall, makeing for a difficult engine carb setup.
I took a chance andordered the rear carbAerovate 20cc, as it turned out the cowl on the BF-110 is deep enough that the engine has easy access without going into and cuttingthe firewall for the carb.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I have a set of Robart retracts I can use latter for this plane, my enitial plan is to set it up with the fixed wheel struts for the first flight to keep the build simple and get it into the air. I well be making the wings as a three piece unit, 95" span is just to big for me as a single section wing.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I started the build with the center wing unit and engine mounting. I epoxied the two inboard wing sections togethere as outlined in the instruction manual, than epoxied the two engine compartment units to the wing center section which well make up the center wing section of my three piece wing. I opted to not use the kit supplied firewalls and cut mine out of 1/4" hard ply about 1/2" larger than the supplied units. If you look close at the engine instalation you well see that I used two 1/4" ply strips as a spacer behind the firewall, and the second spacer is tapper sanded to provide about a 1 degree offset of the engine toward the wing tip. ( I also used a larger dowl 5/16" ) for the two dowls mounted at wing center for aligment, I set the wing into the sadle and used a very long 5/16" drill bit, to drill a hole from the front of the fuselage former into the wing leading edge to make for a accurate dowl and hole installation.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

This isa nice kit, so far every thing aligned pretty good... The manual is a little lacking in the assembly detail, I kind of have to go along the build looking at the pictures because there is very little printed about the assembly procedger in the manual... As you can see there is no way to get to the lever to close the carb to choke the engine... I am going to have to come up with a likage to allow the butterfly to close for choking the engine at startup.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

I'm watching.
I reckon you'll come up with some great idea for the choke RCWBB.

Cheers,

Brad

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

Problem solved!!!.. on the choke that is, before I need to tackle the next problem ( looks like the gas tank well not fit in the location because the wing tube blocks it) .. I tooksheet steel about 1/32" thick and cut a piece about 1/4" wide and 3/4" long, drilled a hole through one end and tapped the hole with a 4-40 tap, used a 1/4" long 4/40 screw through the hole on the choke lever and screwed it into the metal piece which now offset the lever at 90 deg and can be actuated with a up, down motion.,, I bent a push rod to attach to the lever whichcan be actuated by pushing the rod in or out to close or open the choke,,, good thing is it looks like I do not have to cut another hole in the cowl for it..

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I have been having great luck running golden rod cables to my chokes. Then I run them behind a hatch door on the side of the fuselage. I solder a small blind nut on the end to give some grip. It works great

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

Good idea, I used the golden rod cable on the throttle servo, never crossed my mind about using it on the carb... I used standard Futaba servos for the throttle, the mounting plate looked to thin to get a good hold of the throttle servo mounting screw so I epoxied 1/16" hard ply laminate under the servo mounting area.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I can't find the long screws to use for the airlron servo horn and some other hardware with the kit, looks like the factory forgot to pack them, no big deal,I opted to use some Du-Bro giant scale horns I have on hand. I am using Hitec 645 high torque metal gear servos on the airlon..
Below and ahead of the wing tube,a area is a cutout for mounting the fuel tank included with the kit, the problem is the tank can not be placed there without cutting the wing tube socket, design malfunction here?..

rcflying007

Hi rcwarbirdbuilder,

The BF-110 you have should be the earlier ESM batch products, i knew that the fibre tubes in the side fuselage would affect the fuel tank assembly, you need to cut away the fibre tubes before you assemble the fuel tank, and then insert the wing joints to them.

As i know, the current ESM BF-110 no more offer these fibre tubes with their planes. Hope the information can help you a little.

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

just an idea in rc boats we run 500 ml fuel bags ,Could slide that in here going to try that in mine ,would like to here about those motors you have how do thay run

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

forgot to say looks good keep up the good work

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

An excellent idea for choke activation! Thanks for sharing!

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I don't want to cut the fibre tube out of the way to install the fuel tank since Iam going to make the outboard wings removalble at that point.. I thought of smaller tanks behind the tube ( that may not work because it well obstruct the retracted wheels),,, or maybe one 24oz. tank for both engines mounted in the fuselage.???

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Cut it away. I did the same thing. Made mine a three piece wing as well. That small section of fg wing socket adds no strength and is not needed at all. There is another build thread here with pictures of the wing mod.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I got a little work on the 110 done today, and looked at the wing tube a little closer... Installed the y harness for the flaps, airlon, and the throttle, and cut a hole in the top wing sheeting to bring the cables out... I decided to cut out enough of the fiberglass wing tube to get the tank to slip into its proper location like it should.

kahloq

This plane is real easy to fly and doesnt need a whole lot of power. Mine is running two electric power 60's on 6s 6000 per motor spinning 16x10 3 blade props. I made the wing tips removeable...so the center section does include the entire flaps on mine. The wing tips are held in place using 3 4-40 hex bolts into blind nuts glued inside the center section, but thru a wood plate that has a bomb drop on it. This makes it look like the plate is suppoed to be there.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I cut my flaps at the joint, so the outer part of the flap is stationary, looks like there is plenty of flap remaining to be functional... The picture is fuzzy but I cut the wing tube out flush at the servo tray... Changed out the fuel tank stopper with a brown rubber gas proof stopper, and changed the fuel tubes from aluminum to brasss,, and soldered a piece of small copper wire spiraled around the brass tube so the fuel line is less likely to come off over time... Also had to sand off some of the formerso the fuel tank would slip in, the cutout was just to tight,,, after all this I find that the front of the fuel tank telts down to much so the fuel pickup well starve for gas before the tank is even half empty, also the fuel well overflow when filling before the tank is 3/4 full, geez anyone ever check thisout before it is all packaged for sale?. Well it is a good looking airplane anyway and worth the extra effort I guess.

Now I need to longate the hole in the center of the firewall so the tank can be cocked up some in the front, the tank needs to be shoved to the firewall all the way or the back of the tank well keep the wing tube from passing through.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

I longated the the hole in the firewall to get the fuel tank to set more level.. preparing to install Hitec 475 for the airlons.. not much going in the fueselage other than the standard servo with a 4/40 plastic sleeved steel pushrod for the tail wheel.. instaled a spring shock on the tail wheel, and attached the assembled stablizer to the fuselage with a small machine screw and a tee nut attached to the fuselage..

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

You can still actuate the entire flap section. Make a ply plug 1/4" thick that will fit into the cavity at the inboard section where it was cut. Glue only into this section. When you slide the wing panels together, the 1/8" part of the ply protruding will fir into the outboard section. I can take pics if I made it sound confusing.

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

Mpizpilot Thanks, that sounds like it would work, problem is I wanted to keep it simple andglued the outer half of the flap to the trailing edge already, it be a great option for someone who may be following along..

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

Looking great! I'm right down the road from you in Plymouth and I'd love to see the 110 whenever it's ready. Hope you keep this post going. I'd love to pick up this model, but I can't stomach the $170 shipping charge. [:@]

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

You can stop by anytime to look at it if I am home, sent a PM with my phone number, George.