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Goose's Top Flite Giant P-51D Build Thread

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Goose's Top Flite Giant P-51D Build Thread

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Old 01-04-2015, 02:07 PM
  #251  
piperjon
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great to hear from you, but not the other stuff. Unreal what life beings us hay. Take care.
John
Old 01-11-2015, 03:21 PM
  #252  
v6goose
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Hey guys...

I've been working on the radiator doors and things are coming along well.

I do have a bear of a time with Flite-metal where others seem to throw it at a plane and it comes out nice... Guess I'll do more research and practice...

I have to do something about the spinner back plate too as it weighs far too much, so putting some thought into machining it...

Hope you all are managing some build time.

Cheers

Goose

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Old 01-11-2015, 04:52 PM
  #253  
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Hi Goose,
Still nothing on my TF stang. But maybe later in the year.

John
Old 01-11-2015, 04:55 PM
  #254  
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By the way Goose had nothing from the other prop maker that sold me crap. Solo prop is a great guy. I did buy some props so I could test my Hacker electric motor.
John
Old 01-17-2015, 11:50 AM
  #255  
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Hey Goose, after reading through your thread if I my ask how do you measure or get the 10 deg. dihedral on the wing? I'm new to rc and this Top Flite Giant p-51 is my first build. Thank you
Old 01-17-2015, 01:43 PM
  #256  
chris923
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Wade,

I can't answer for Goose, but I can tell you how I do it.
Take the wing joiner and take 1/4 of an inch off the bottom and add 1/4 of an inch on the top.
Epoxy wing together.
Fill the gap on the bottom of the wing with 1/4 wedges. Epoxy them in place.
If you wish you can run a 2" strip of fiber glass around the center of the wing.
However, I have done 5 TF P51 wings and have never had a wing fail. I don't do the fiber glass.
Old 01-17-2015, 07:23 PM
  #257  
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Awesome Chris923 Thank you I will do that.
Old 01-18-2015, 03:18 PM
  #258  
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Hey guys...

Thanks Chris, yes that's one way to do it. If you're building the kit Wade simply cut a new wing joiner and make a new root rib gauge to the correct angle.

The kit wing dihedral is 5 degrees, make yours 10 degrees total. There are many discussions on where this 10 degrees should be measured however from the original NA drawings, it seems to me to be at the 25% chord line, or in our case, the main spar... very convenient.

Good luck

Goose
Old 01-18-2015, 03:22 PM
  #259  
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Hey guys...

Been working on the Mustang again today, this time machining the massive nose cone backplate as mentioned above to shed some weight.

4 hours later (and 4 more holes) I'd lost 97g (56%) which I'm very happy about.

Hope all your builds are going well.

Cheers

Goose

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Old 01-23-2015, 08:27 AM
  #260  
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Hey Goose, now that my P51D is finished I'm now watching your build! Just shout if you need any info
Cary
Old 01-23-2015, 08:55 AM
  #261  
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Great! Thanks Cary...
Old 01-23-2015, 01:00 PM
  #262  
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Hi Goose,

I received an email again last week letting me know that Tony is still in hospital. he sure must have had a big problem because his wife said in the first email that he was rushed to hospital.
I just hope the man is coming along fine now. and will be home soon.
John
Old 01-25-2015, 06:57 AM
  #263  
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Love the build Goose! I also sent you a PM as well....


You do amazing work!
Old 01-29-2015, 05:17 PM
  #264  
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Hi every body, I received an email today from Margaret Howard informing me that Tony Howard has past away. Gee what a shock. It's so sad.
John

Last edited by piperjon; 01-29-2015 at 05:24 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
Old 01-29-2015, 05:34 PM
  #265  
DLEVETT
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Wow , that really sucks.
I was just corresponding with him in Dec about getting some items and then he got sick.
He was always a great guy to deal with and provided us in the hobby with some great products.
He will be missed for sure.

Dave
Old 01-29-2015, 05:43 PM
  #266  
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Yes it's a shame. And he will be missed. He was doing some great products for P-51's!!

God Bless you Tony and Rest in Peace!!!!!!!
John
Old 01-31-2015, 03:50 PM
  #267  
piperjon
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It's a shame some one could take over Tony's business and keep his name going. Margaret did say that his business would be closed. Anyway that is some times the way things work out.

John
Old 02-01-2015, 03:04 PM
  #268  
v6goose
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Wow... I'm stunned by that news John... He had a keen eye for detail and we had exchanged emails in the never-ending quest for correctness. R.I.P Mr Howard.

In secondary news and far less sad, I began building the elevators today... nothing special but I will use the same process as I did for the wings and ailerons.

Cheers

Goose
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Old 02-01-2015, 03:20 PM
  #269  
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Yes it was a great shock to hear his passing. I don't know why but I think rushing him to hospital may have been his heart. But anyway we will sure miss his work.

Good to see you back again my friend. I will start on my TF kit very soon and try and work out Tony's cowl the way he built it. I just got to finish this 1/4 scale Tiger Moth.

Thanks Goose.
Old 02-21-2015, 02:52 PM
  #270  
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Hey guys...

Still working away on the elevators, hope to have them done this weekend then on to the front end (cowl, engine etc).

Cheers

Goose

[phone pic]
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Old 02-21-2015, 04:51 PM
  #271  
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Hi Goose,

I don't know what to do now that Tony has left us in regards to the cowl and air scoop. Did you buy his cowl or are you building your own.
John
Old 02-22-2015, 07:35 AM
  #272  
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Hey John...

I have a Spychalla cowl but the airscoop is still a problem. Depending on how anal I get about it *lol* I may just build the front half to correct the opening size and shape.

If that doesn't work out I'll build a new one-piece scoop.

Cheers

Goose
Old 02-22-2015, 12:48 PM
  #273  
piperjon
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Hi Goose,

I think I will go with Leo's cowl and do the same as you build the scoop.

John
Old 02-26-2015, 09:25 PM
  #274  
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Does anyone have any pics of a Top Flite canopy converted to a slider.
Old 03-15-2015, 10:20 AM
  #275  
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Hi Puncho...

There are a couple of pictures in this thread on how intend on doing it, and as always there are a bunch of different ways.

Simply you will need to build a frame for the 'glass' to sit on (scale if you wish) and once attached to the glass you split it at the closing seam. Glue the front piece to the fuselage and create rails for the rear piece to slide on. Many use ball links inside brass channel and I think there are people selling these as a kit.

Use the scale rear slot to make an arm for your actuator (usually air ram but servo works too) and you are good to go.

Good luck

Goose


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