Goose's Top Flite Giant P-51D Build Thread
#252
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys...
I've been working on the radiator doors and things are coming along well.
I do have a bear of a time with Flite-metal where others seem to throw it at a plane and it comes out nice... Guess I'll do more research and practice...
I have to do something about the spinner back plate too as it weighs far too much, so putting some thought into machining it...
Hope you all are managing some build time.
Cheers
Goose
I've been working on the radiator doors and things are coming along well.
I do have a bear of a time with Flite-metal where others seem to throw it at a plane and it comes out nice... Guess I'll do more research and practice...
I have to do something about the spinner back plate too as it weighs far too much, so putting some thought into machining it...
Hope you all are managing some build time.
Cheers
Goose
#254
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By the way Goose had nothing from the other prop maker that sold me crap. Solo prop is a great guy. I did buy some props so I could test my Hacker electric motor.
John
John
#255
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Goose, after reading through your thread if I my ask how do you measure or get the 10 deg. dihedral on the wing? I'm new to rc and this Top Flite Giant p-51 is my first build. Thank you
#256
My Feedback: (53)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: milwaukee, WI
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wade,
I can't answer for Goose, but I can tell you how I do it.
Take the wing joiner and take 1/4 of an inch off the bottom and add 1/4 of an inch on the top.
Epoxy wing together.
Fill the gap on the bottom of the wing with 1/4 wedges. Epoxy them in place.
If you wish you can run a 2" strip of fiber glass around the center of the wing.
However, I have done 5 TF P51 wings and have never had a wing fail. I don't do the fiber glass.
I can't answer for Goose, but I can tell you how I do it.
Take the wing joiner and take 1/4 of an inch off the bottom and add 1/4 of an inch on the top.
Epoxy wing together.
Fill the gap on the bottom of the wing with 1/4 wedges. Epoxy them in place.
If you wish you can run a 2" strip of fiber glass around the center of the wing.
However, I have done 5 TF P51 wings and have never had a wing fail. I don't do the fiber glass.
#258
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys...
Thanks Chris, yes that's one way to do it. If you're building the kit Wade simply cut a new wing joiner and make a new root rib gauge to the correct angle.
The kit wing dihedral is 5 degrees, make yours 10 degrees total. There are many discussions on where this 10 degrees should be measured however from the original NA drawings, it seems to me to be at the 25% chord line, or in our case, the main spar... very convenient.
Good luck
Goose
Thanks Chris, yes that's one way to do it. If you're building the kit Wade simply cut a new wing joiner and make a new root rib gauge to the correct angle.
The kit wing dihedral is 5 degrees, make yours 10 degrees total. There are many discussions on where this 10 degrees should be measured however from the original NA drawings, it seems to me to be at the 25% chord line, or in our case, the main spar... very convenient.
Good luck
Goose
#259
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys...
Been working on the Mustang again today, this time machining the massive nose cone backplate as mentioned above to shed some weight.
4 hours later (and 4 more holes) I'd lost 97g (56%) which I'm very happy about.
Hope all your builds are going well.
Cheers
Goose
Been working on the Mustang again today, this time machining the massive nose cone backplate as mentioned above to shed some weight.
4 hours later (and 4 more holes) I'd lost 97g (56%) which I'm very happy about.
Hope all your builds are going well.
Cheers
Goose
Last edited by v6goose; 01-18-2015 at 06:43 PM.
#262
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Goose,
I received an email again last week letting me know that Tony is still in hospital. he sure must have had a big problem because his wife said in the first email that he was rushed to hospital.
I just hope the man is coming along fine now. and will be home soon.
John
I received an email again last week letting me know that Tony is still in hospital. he sure must have had a big problem because his wife said in the first email that he was rushed to hospital.
I just hope the man is coming along fine now. and will be home soon.
John
#264
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi every body, I received an email today from Margaret Howard informing me that Tony Howard has past away. Gee what a shock. It's so sad.
John
John
Last edited by piperjon; 01-29-2015 at 05:24 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
#265
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: GUELPH,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow , that really sucks.
I was just corresponding with him in Dec about getting some items and then he got sick.
He was always a great guy to deal with and provided us in the hobby with some great products.
He will be missed for sure.
Dave
I was just corresponding with him in Dec about getting some items and then he got sick.
He was always a great guy to deal with and provided us in the hobby with some great products.
He will be missed for sure.
Dave
#266
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it's a shame. And he will be missed. He was doing some great products for P-51's!!
God Bless you Tony and Rest in Peace!!!!!!!
John
God Bless you Tony and Rest in Peace!!!!!!!
John
#267
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a shame some one could take over Tony's business and keep his name going. Margaret did say that his business would be closed. Anyway that is some times the way things work out.
John
John
#268
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow... I'm stunned by that news John... He had a keen eye for detail and we had exchanged emails in the never-ending quest for correctness. R.I.P Mr Howard.
In secondary news and far less sad, I began building the elevators today... nothing special but I will use the same process as I did for the wings and ailerons.
Cheers
Goose
In secondary news and far less sad, I began building the elevators today... nothing special but I will use the same process as I did for the wings and ailerons.
Cheers
Goose
#269
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it was a great shock to hear his passing. I don't know why but I think rushing him to hospital may have been his heart. But anyway we will sure miss his work.
Good to see you back again my friend. I will start on my TF kit very soon and try and work out Tony's cowl the way he built it. I just got to finish this 1/4 scale Tiger Moth.
Thanks Goose.
Good to see you back again my friend. I will start on my TF kit very soon and try and work out Tony's cowl the way he built it. I just got to finish this 1/4 scale Tiger Moth.
Thanks Goose.
#270
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys...
Still working away on the elevators, hope to have them done this weekend then on to the front end (cowl, engine etc).
Cheers
Goose
[phone pic]
Still working away on the elevators, hope to have them done this weekend then on to the front end (cowl, engine etc).
Cheers
Goose
[phone pic]
#271
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunny CornerNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Goose,
I don't know what to do now that Tony has left us in regards to the cowl and air scoop. Did you buy his cowl or are you building your own.
John
I don't know what to do now that Tony has left us in regards to the cowl and air scoop. Did you buy his cowl or are you building your own.
John
#272
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey John...
I have a Spychalla cowl but the airscoop is still a problem. Depending on how anal I get about it *lol* I may just build the front half to correct the opening size and shape.
If that doesn't work out I'll build a new one-piece scoop.
Cheers
Goose
I have a Spychalla cowl but the airscoop is still a problem. Depending on how anal I get about it *lol* I may just build the front half to correct the opening size and shape.
If that doesn't work out I'll build a new one-piece scoop.
Cheers
Goose
#275
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Puncho...
There are a couple of pictures in this thread on how intend on doing it, and as always there are a bunch of different ways.
Simply you will need to build a frame for the 'glass' to sit on (scale if you wish) and once attached to the glass you split it at the closing seam. Glue the front piece to the fuselage and create rails for the rear piece to slide on. Many use ball links inside brass channel and I think there are people selling these as a kit.
Use the scale rear slot to make an arm for your actuator (usually air ram but servo works too) and you are good to go.
Good luck
Goose
There are a couple of pictures in this thread on how intend on doing it, and as always there are a bunch of different ways.
Simply you will need to build a frame for the 'glass' to sit on (scale if you wish) and once attached to the glass you split it at the closing seam. Glue the front piece to the fuselage and create rails for the rear piece to slide on. Many use ball links inside brass channel and I think there are people selling these as a kit.
Use the scale rear slot to make an arm for your actuator (usually air ram but servo works too) and you are good to go.
Good luck
Goose