Gorilla Glue
#7
Senior Member
RE: Gorilla Glue
ORIGINAL: All Day Dan
hellcat, use those medical exam gloves next time. I never touch the stuff without those on my hands. Dan.
hellcat, use those medical exam gloves next time. I never touch the stuff without those on my hands. Dan.
And with those on your hands, you most certainly won't be touching the stuff.
You can get a box of something like 100 gloves at Harbor Freight for almost nothing.
#8
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RE: Gorilla Glue
I have done a fair bit of building over my 25 years in the hobby, but I have never used Gorilla glue.
Always use Sig Aliphatic resin or Titebond, and of course CA and 5min epoxy.
So can any of you builders out there tell me what application you use this stuff for, and why.
Thanks
Always use Sig Aliphatic resin or Titebond, and of course CA and 5min epoxy.
So can any of you builders out there tell me what application you use this stuff for, and why.
Thanks
#10
Senior Member
RE: Gorilla Glue
Gorilla glue comes off w/ mineral spirts and elbow gresse and I too never used it untill just awhile a go and it's very good for tough app's where you cant really clamp very tight but need it to never come off or need to have a gap filled because of it expanding properties you just have to be carefull not to make a real mess (YOU DON'T NEED MUCH)
Bruce
Bruce
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RE: Gorilla Glue
On a balsa sheeted foam core wing where I did not do a good job of sanding the dihedral at the center, I glued the wing halfs together at the correct dihedral and let Gorilla Glue fill the gap. I have also used it to glue an ABS radial engine front and back together where the Gorilla Glue filled the cavity in the engine; it added strength and weight. I have not had good success with using it to glue hardwood to a fiberglass fuselage in a gas plane; the joints eventually vibrated apart.
- Brian
- Brian
#16
RE: Gorilla Glue
If it is wet use mineral spirits. If it's hard then use sandpaperor solvent such as acetone,laquer thinner etc. I find it has it's place for filling in gaps and for gluing foamies back together and for attaching hinge points or nylon hinges it's great. I first coat the hinge joint in vasilene and then apply just a little water to the control surface holes and the trailing edge holes. Next take a tooth pick with a little glue, and I mean a little, and then rub it in the hole insert the hinges and line it up and let it set. In about 1/2 an hr check it again and work the hinges some, don't try to wipe off any glue that foams out yet, when it gets hard you will be able to take a #11 blade and pick the excess right off and your hinges will function just fine, and they will not pull loose, even in a crash. Don't ask
#18
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RE: Gorilla Glue
Interesting stuff, I may give it a try, thanks for the info.
Deatonbt:
For any wood to fiberglass I use a glue by PermaPoxy called 5 Min Plastic Weld. The key ingrediant is " Methyl Methacrylate "I think. It's stinky stuff and you don't want it on your skin I would think.
But it works great, and you can use it for plastic to wood, plastic to plastic also.
Tom
Deatonbt:
For any wood to fiberglass I use a glue by PermaPoxy called 5 Min Plastic Weld. The key ingrediant is " Methyl Methacrylate "I think. It's stinky stuff and you don't want it on your skin I would think.
But it works great, and you can use it for plastic to wood, plastic to plastic also.
Tom
#19
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RE: Gorilla Glue
ORIGINAL: raptureboy
If it is wet use mineral spirits. If it's hard then use sandpaper[img][/img] or solvent such as acetone,laquer thinner etc. I find it has it's place for filling in gaps and for gluing foamies back together and for attaching hinge points or nylon hinges it's great. I first coat the hinge joint in vasilene and then apply just a little water to the control surface holes and the trailing edge holes. Next take a tooth pick with a little glue, and I mean a little, and then rub it in the hole insert the hinges and line it up and let it set. In about 1/2 an hr check it again and work the hinges some, don't try to wipe off any glue that foams out yet, when it gets hard you will be able to take a #11 blade and pick the excess right off and your hinges will function just fine, and they will not pull loose, even in a crash. Don't ask[img][/img]
If it is wet use mineral spirits. If it's hard then use sandpaper[img][/img] or solvent such as acetone,laquer thinner etc. I find it has it's place for filling in gaps and for gluing foamies back together and for attaching hinge points or nylon hinges it's great. I first coat the hinge joint in vasilene and then apply just a little water to the control surface holes and the trailing edge holes. Next take a tooth pick with a little glue, and I mean a little, and then rub it in the hole insert the hinges and line it up and let it set. In about 1/2 an hr check it again and work the hinges some, don't try to wipe off any glue that foams out yet, when it gets hard you will be able to take a #11 blade and pick the excess right off and your hinges will function just fine, and they will not pull loose, even in a crash. Don't ask[img][/img]
#21
RE: Gorilla Glue
Takes no more time and I don't have to hurry up because the epoxy is setting up on me while I'm trying to line up the hinges, and just so you know epoxy will not stick to nylon hinges very long wise guy! Thats why I mix it on plastic container lids and use nylon spatulas,just flex it and it pops right off. If you've got nothing good to say then keep it to yourselfReally why do guys like you have to get in a thread and try to make yourself and your ideas sound sosuperior.
#22
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Gorilla Glue
ORIGINAL: raptureboy
Takes no more time and I don't have to hurry up because the epoxy is setting up on me while I'm trying to line up the hinges, and just so you know epoxy will not stick to nylon hinges very long wise guy! Thats why I mix it on plastic container lids and use nylon spatulas, just flex it and it pops right off. [img][/img]If you've got nothing good to say then keep it to yourself[img][/img] Really why do guys like you have to get in a thread and try to make yourself and your ideas sound so superior.
Takes no more time and I don't have to hurry up because the epoxy is setting up on me while I'm trying to line up the hinges, and just so you know epoxy will not stick to nylon hinges very long wise guy! Thats why I mix it on plastic container lids and use nylon spatulas, just flex it and it pops right off. [img][/img]If you've got nothing good to say then keep it to yourself[img][/img] Really why do guys like you have to get in a thread and try to make yourself and your ideas sound so superior.
#23
Senior Member
RE: Gorilla Glue
ORIGINAL: raptureboy
Takes no more time and I don't have to hurry up because the epoxy is setting up on me while I'm trying to line up the hinges, and just so you know epoxy will not stick to nylon hinges very long wise guy! Thats why I mix it on plastic container lids and use nylon spatulas,just flex it and it pops right off. If you've got nothing good to say then keep it to yourselfReally why do guys like you have to get in a thread and try to make yourself and your ideas sound sosuperior.
Takes no more time and I don't have to hurry up because the epoxy is setting up on me while I'm trying to line up the hinges, and just so you know epoxy will not stick to nylon hinges very long wise guy! Thats why I mix it on plastic container lids and use nylon spatulas,just flex it and it pops right off. If you've got nothing good to say then keep it to yourselfReally why do guys like you have to get in a thread and try to make yourself and your ideas sound sosuperior.
To the OP, +1 for the gloves. Anytime a job is going to get messy, I opt for the gloves too. But once I get GG on my hands and it turns black from grime, I sand it off the skin. I try hard not to get too much solvent on my bare hands. Skin absorbs solvents
#25
Senior Member
RE: Gorilla Glue
ORIGINAL: airega1
Man Please, all that work for installing hinge points? use 5, 15 or 30 min epoxy, let it cure and even if it gets to the hinge joint you can snap it free, 30 years of installing hinge points always with epoxy and never a failure. Gorilla glue, dampen the surface, apply, watch for foam, pick it away, what a joke!
ORIGINAL: raptureboy
If it is wet use mineral spirits. If it's hard then use sandpaper[img][/img]or solvent such as acetone,laquer thinner etc. I find it has it's place for filling in gaps and for gluing foamies back together and for attaching hinge points or nylon hinges it's great. I first coat the hinge joint in vasilene and then apply just a little water to the control surface holes and the trailing edge holes. Next take a tooth pick with a little glue, and I mean a little, and then rub it in the hole insert the hinges and line it up and let it set. In about 1/2 an hr check it again and work the hinges some, don't try to wipe off any glue that foams out yet, when it gets hard you will be able to take a #11 blade and pick the excess right off and your hinges will function just fine, and they will not pull loose, even in a crash. Don't ask[img][/img]
If it is wet use mineral spirits. If it's hard then use sandpaper[img][/img]or solvent such as acetone,laquer thinner etc. I find it has it's place for filling in gaps and for gluing foamies back together and for attaching hinge points or nylon hinges it's great. I first coat the hinge joint in vasilene and then apply just a little water to the control surface holes and the trailing edge holes. Next take a tooth pick with a little glue, and I mean a little, and then rub it in the hole insert the hinges and line it up and let it set. In about 1/2 an hr check it again and work the hinges some, don't try to wipe off any glue that foams out yet, when it gets hard you will be able to take a #11 blade and pick the excess right off and your hinges will function just fine, and they will not pull loose, even in a crash. Don't ask[img][/img]
I useGG on hinges. Rapture explained it in great detail but it doesn't take long to do at all.