Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
#251
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Ram bro... i'm really sorry i forgot to answer your question as i was looking back through the thread. i don't plan on going crazy with panel lines etc. i like to build a good utility airplane. one that i can fly a lot with out having to be reminded of all the detail work that some like to do.
#255
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I put the wings on today just to see it all together for the first time after painting. i'll be glad to get the paint booth dismantled so i can move back into my shop lol all in all i'm happy with it .now i have to decide on the graphics i want to do it up in ,WB_1
#265
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Guys, could you run through the fitting of the tailplane to the fusealge for me, friend of mine nearly lost his re-vamped byron corsair at the weekend, lot of tail flutter, it looks like the taiplane halves are just glued into the fuselage molding, and not together? This lets the tailwheel retract between the tail halves, sounds wrong to me, got to find some way of keeping the stab from flopping about! Its an old model, fully revamped, thing is, it had flown a few times in grey primer, now, full fantastic paint job, and this ! So, if you could run through how the stabs are fitted, it would help two limeys save this bird, many thanks
#266
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Guys, could you run through the fitting of the tailplane to the fusealge for me, friend of mine nearly lost his re-vamped byron corsair at the weekend, lot of tail flutter, it looks like the taiplane halves are just glued into the fuselage molding, and not together? This lets the tailwheel retract between the tail halves, sounds wrong to me, got to find some way of keeping the stab from flopping about! Its an old model, fully revamped, thing is, it had flown a few times in grey primer, now, full fantastic paint job, and this ! So, if you could run through how the stabs are fitted, it would help two limeys save this bird, many thanks
#267
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I have yet to go look at the model, cant believevthetes no soar, so, theres a history of this model losing its tail? Worrying, i dud look through the thread, i didnt see the mod you mention, it seemed the tails just appeared, lol! I will have another look through
#268
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Found it, page 4, i must have skipped a page, so, it seems it comes with a rear spar,but no forward one? I am going over too look at it tomorow night, i will try to take some pictures with the ipad, I just hope he does not have to cut it open,the paints jobs stunning, still, needs must, many thanks, back soon,
#269
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look at post # 74 and #78 a lot of builders took the elevator construction at face value never thinking beyond what the instructions said and the fact that they used the wrong glue. it's hard to find any glue that sticks great to polyester . I used 610 because it's made to bond to PR . I did a test to check it and I was happy with it along with the new spar , it should not fail. having one spar in the rear was just plain bad. the rest of the elevator half's had no support other than the glue.
#270
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Even all that time ago, i just cannot believe they used one slim rear spar, jeez ! Many thanks, its a shame, but it looks like the tails comng out, i am thinking of setting up in a jig, on V blocks, and boring out the tail, and fitting a phenolic liner, wirh a carbon spar, he says its about 1" thick, should get decent tube down there, i am a Prescion engineer for a job, shouldn't be to bad to do, Just cant see how to cut the glassed tail, to accept a verticle spar, without messing up the entire thing, his idea, is to glue a piece of balsa across the front, like a wedge, between the 2 stabs sides, i dont think that will hold for long, i think its bite the bullet time, again, many thanks,
#271
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Even all that time ago, i just cannot believe they used one slim rear spar, jeez ! Many thanks, its a shame, but it looks like the tails comng out, i am thinking of setting up in a jig, on V blocks, and boring out the tail, and fitting a phenolic liner, wirh a carbon spar, he says its about 1" thick, should get decent tube down there, i am a Prescion engineer for a job, shouldn't be to bad to do, Just cant see how to cut the glassed tail, to accept a verticle spar, without messing up the entire thing, his idea, is to glue a piece of balsa across the front, like a wedge, between the 2 stabs sides, i dont think that will hold for long, i think its bite the bullet time, again, many thanks,
#272
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I own (3) Byron Corsairs and the one I've flown the longest has the rear (trailing edge) plywood spar but had been modified with an arrow shaft spar near the mean chord. The other two had been built by others but never flown. One had the TE spar and the other was simply butt glued to the FG fuse.
In all cases, I would cut a slot in the fuse below where I want the spar, then notch it into the bottom of the stab and bond it in.
In all cases, I would cut a slot in the fuse below where I want the spar, then notch it into the bottom of the stab and bond it in.
#273
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Got a dremel, not a bad idea, i have access to high grade carbon rod, in various diameters, No idea what the glue was, its an old model, Know more tonght, when i see it, many thanks guys,msome good ideas there,
#274
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Had a look today, no spars at all, but there looks to be a carbon shaft near the T.E. Might be a spar of sorts, but dont know how far it goes into the stabs, looks like 2 pieces of L shaped wire have been bogged ( can hardly call it glued) into the fuselage, with the L going into the stab, perhaps for alinement, But primarily, the stabs are glued to the fuzz sides, not good, my mates cut a 1/4 slot through the underneeath veneer, about 1/3rd back from the L.E. 6 inches either side of the fuzz, this will be tapered, to drain the stress down, a full depth spar would create a stress point if it was not tapered, plus, aint tapered, aint going in! , The stabs will have wing epoxy thinned down, and dropped into the very slim gap between fuzz and stab, hopefully, this Terribley bad design will become a thing of the past, and a beutifuuly restored old Corsair will safely take to the skys, many thanks to you guys, you were invaluble