Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I've been building a Byron P-47 for years and I have used Warbird Colors in the past but I see in going to their web site they can't get many colors anymore including primer. I was wondering how many of you have used Klass Kote product for primer and color and how well it sands. How good are the end end results and if there is anything to watch for.

Thanks.

Here's how it will look:

jlovitt

My Feedback: (41)

Works great. I have not used their primers, so can't speak to their use or sanding. As far as the colors, they are not difficult to spray, they mix 1-1-1 parts a,b,thinner (or more thinner if you feel it needs it.)

I have finished a number of scale planes including wwi, wwii and jet type with it and it's all I use. Cures very hard and takes weathering easily. For your subject, you will probably be using the satin catalyst and might even consider getting the flattener that you can add to the satin catalyst to make it dead flat. I did that on my Japanese Tony and it's dead flat.



Jeff Lovitt

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

I too am very happy with Klass Kote. I have had more success using thinner at 1 part A, 1 part B, and 2 parts thinner. For thinner, being the tightwad I am, I use a little bit of Klass Kote's expensive reducer and the balance with Klean Strip laquer tinner from Wal Mart. I don't use their primer. I use a PPG product from the auto refinishing store called Shop Line. It is a two part epoxy primer in gray. Acts just like the old K&B primer, ie., very easy to sand. I thin it with the wal mart laquer thinner to spray, but it takes less than the Klass Kote. Primer is a 5:1 mix and I use about 2 parts thinner. It is important to follow KK's recomendation to let the A & B mix sit for about 45 minutes before spraying. Not necessary with the primer I use. I use a Harbor Freight touch up gun.
Chuck

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Goggles, this might apply to you in Canada. I spray out in the garage year-round. Just finished two D3A1 Vals last week. I spray, let the solvents evaporate for about half and hour, then bring the parts inside to cure overnight where it is warm.
Chuck

Tempest-RCU

My Feedback: (98)

For those who have used Klasskote how well does it cleanup when you are done? One of the things I like about WarbirdColors is that they are water based, cleanup is very easy and the smell is almost non-existent.

How long before KlassKote begins to harden and necessitate cleaning out your spray equipment? I would very much like to try KlassKote, but have always been curious as to how involved cleanup was.

Goggles: I was recently in correspondence with Chuck (@WarbirdColors) regarding getting some US Dark Blue. He was more than helpful in sending me a pint of his new formula, and he indicated to me that his supply issues were going to soon be resolved. You may want to send him an email.

Thanks!

Paul

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Ugggh, thanks for the replies but I just read that KK will attack the foam. I have fiberglassed the surfaces but in the slim event that I may have sanded an area to thin it may seep through and melt the foam, probably not a good idea. That's why I had used Warbird colors, because it didn't harm the foam. Any other good water based paints out there?

Dash7ATP

Googles,

I have been using KlassKote ever since I finally gave up on getting any more K & B poxy paints. It's almost the same product. I like the primer as well. It's white and sands very easily. I usually give it about 24 hours prior to sanding as it seems to work a little easier. You can wet sand much sooner. It does dry very hard and sprays very well when properly thinned. As for cleaning up your spray equipment, You have to remember that this is epoxy and once mixed, it WILL cure and it doesn't care where it is. I try to take apart my spray equipment and cledan it good with regular lacquer thinner. By doing this, I've never had a clogging problem.

Dash

Flyfast1

My Feedback: (1)

I am currently in the midst of painting my Yellow Spitfire and am using KlassKote paints. My build is on the Complete Yellow Spitfire thread. I am a beginner painter using an airbrush to paint the entire plane and am very happy with the paint. It is easy to mix and spray and the finish seems very robust. I am using 1/3 color; 1/3 catalyst and 1/3 reducer (thinner). I used SEM automotive high fill primer. For cleanup I use lacquer thinner and a lot of paper towels. Not sure how long KlassKote paint can be left to sit in an airbrush or touch-up gun before hardening, but so far I've let it sit for up to 30 minutes in-between coats with no problems. My spitfire has a foam wing that is sheated and fiberglassed and I have not had any issues with the paint attacking the foam.

-Ed B.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Ya I wish this thing was sheeted, it's a pain working with this foam and trying not to dent it. Seems I just get a section finished and I have another ding I have to fill.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Klass Kote gets great reviews every where you go to read about them. I am an old K&B Superpoxy user but have never tried Klass Kote. The question i have is based on the 45 wait time, what happens when you are in the middle of painting say the top of a wing and you run out of paint in your gun? Do you mix up two batches and have a second one ready? Will the paint blend well enough if you start to respray 45 minutes later? The wait time was not a requirement with K&B.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

The answer is LATEX exterior house paint. A lot of us warbird flyers use it with excellent results. It is cheap, you could get any color you want, almost no smell, water clean up and last but not least, if you screw up on a spray , just wipe off with a damp cloth and start over. You thin with wind shield washer fluid or distilled water. Also adding Flotrol helps with the spraying. Just use a touch up gun for the big areas and air brush for the detail. There is lots of info all over for this.

http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/howto/paint/latexpaint.pdf

http://www.rcwarbirds.com/Advisors/Finish/Finish1.htm

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I have used latex before but was hoping for something a little more sandable but it looks like the only option. Thanks everyone for your help/advice.

Here's my F4U using house paint.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11362903

warbirdcolors

My Feedback: (5)

I have had issues with obtaining colors and primer, however that has changed. WARBIRDCOLORS IS BACK....

I'M BACK...

The manufacturer of WarbirdColors ceased production of the "base product" from which Warbirdcolors was derived. In the past, I would take several hundred gallons of this base product, to which additional resins etc. were added and it became Warbirdcolors. With the ending of production of the base material I had to obtain a new formula and in effect, start over. I have done that, although I still have to deal with the web-site issue.

I have a NEW FORMULA. The colors are the same, they apply the same etc., but the formula is not as fuel/gas resistant as before. In my testing, I poured straight fuel and/or straight gasoline onto a painted surface, waited a few seconds, and rubbed hard with a rag...color came off on the rag, and the finish would slightly discolor. Thus I say it is not fuel-proof...BUT

In speaking with some in the hobby the question arose "Is that real-world"? We don't normally pour raw fuels onto the finish and what does get on "normally" is BURNT FUEL, which is different. It is the oils and residue left over from combustion. I am fairly confident that it will not be an issue, however I have not tested it, as I currently do not have anything that is in any condition to fly and make a mess on the aircraft. At any rate...ELECTRICS are HERE... Not an issue with the colors.

As of now, I'm saying it is not a fuel-proof formula and will require a clear-coat to protect it...but the jury is still out on that verdict...

If you need colors, I have them ALL, including PRIMER. contact me via email. I'm working on getting the web-site back opened, with a suitable notice about the new formula.

Thanks to all for your continued support.
Chuck

Flyfast1

My Feedback: (1)

Based upon my experience, when spraying large surfaces you can either mix enough paint to cover the entire surface, or mix a second batch and there is no problem blending it in, at least with an airbrush. Not sure whether this would be the case using a touch-up spray gun. I used two coats and I wanted to wait for the first coat to dry a little before applying the second coat, so there was no problem at all.

-Ed B.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Sweet, I'll be placing an order soon.

RCFlyerDan

My Feedback: (54)

I have used Klasskote, and it is similar to the old K&B Epoxy paint. It is a good quality product, but epoxy is a heavy paint. It takes too long to dry,will sag in the hour of set up and drying if you get too much on it, which means more sanding. Also, if you touch it with in 24 hours, your finger prints will be there to sand out, especially for the gloss finishes. I still have some in stock, and use it here and there for trim work. Also, between coats or colors, you have to totally take the gun or airbrush apart to clean out the epoxy.

I have switch all of my painting to PPG's Omni series of primers and paint. Comes out to be about the same cost, and because it is an automotive paint, drying time is like 10 minutes, except the primer is an hour or so before sanding. I also don't have to take the gun or airbrush apart for a total cleaning between coats or colors. Due to weight and cost, Omni is just a better product then KlassKote......IMHO and my experiences with painting.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Is it glow fuel proof?

RCFlyerDan

My Feedback: (54)

LOL>>>>>>>hum.....well, I know it is gas and jet fuel proof, although, jet fuel will change the clear a little if you spill it on the surface. I would imagine that it is glow fuel proof, but, I don't do glow anymore, so not sure. Spill some glow on a spot inside your car's trunk or engine compartment to see?

impulse09

My Feedback: (3)

It was the last time I used it.

ps: 15% cool power for fuel

RCFlyerDan

My Feedback: (54)

Thanks Don on the Glow Fuel answer!

MTK

The 45 minute incubation time is there to initiate the cure. It wasn't necessary with the old K&B paints. They are both epoxides but they are not twins; more like cousins. Chemistries are somewhat different.

Once KK is mixed it stays viable in the cup (thinned) for as long as 3 days before it starts gumming up (my experience). Even if you put the mixed paint in the refrigerator, it will still tend to cure in time.It is really a matter of how thick a layer there is, and of course it is thick in the cup and is full of thinner, so it stays viable for this short a period. Clean up should be done sometime in the firstfew hoursnot so much for the cup but for the nozzle internal surfaces where the paint layer is thin and will cure quicker.

Spraying over a first coat can be done practically any time in the first couple hours. It takes a little longer for KK to cure than it did the older K&B paints.

Primer should be allowed at least 24 hours of cure such that it can be feathered, wet or dry. If you sand too soon, it will tend to gum up and not feather well. Properly cured, the stuff feathers great.Masking takes at least 12 hours and I usually go 24 hours or more

Glow fuel and gasoline resistance is very good once the paint is fully cured (a week or more). Hope that helps you guys

RCFlyerDan

My Feedback: (54)

Kind of all the reasons that I don't use it anymore. Too long of cure times, gummy if sanded too early, heavy paint, etc.
I know that some of these aren't war birds, but relate to the paint subject. I have use both paints in combination, and adhession is good between the two paint brands. The F-18 is all Omni paint. The Flash's tail was a repair that I did and the black paint is KK paint, with the rest of the paint as Omni. The pattern plane, I am just finishing. The yellow and black are KK paints, and the rest is Omni.
Pattern plane's engine isn't glow, but a gas FG36 Saito

MTK

One thing I forgot to mention is that a couple colors, yellow in particular, had early problems with opacity. Required several coats to get really opaque (which meant unecessary weight gain). There are newer formulations in the past couple years now that supposedly have improved opacity. If your yellow, light green and light blueis older, send it back for a new replacement, free. Also you may wantto check their website for updates.

Personally I like KK paints particularly the clear and primer. I use clear for bedding covering materials (silkspan, esaki ply span, glass)and primer to get a great base onto which to spray almost any other paint system. For top coats I perfer polyu automotive like OMNI and KK (yup they have a polyU line too), but KK epoxy works great too. BUT be forewarned, this system is not for those that must have instant gratification. It takes time!

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Wow, the Corsair looks real! Great job!