ilmiglia

Nice BUBI color scheme!!!!!
I change the allu motor mount with the H9 included in the box and cut the firewall as you said. Is still drying ,let's see.
Then I put longer servo arms in the inner flaps to mach the movements with the outer flaps. Thats mean that if you look at the plane frome the front with flaps down I should see a straight line ?

Thanks for the suggestions

ashveratu

Here is a brief video of my flap setup. The throws are about 4mm short of the recommendations in the manual and I am tired of messing with them. I basically adjusted them so they have the same angle of deflection. I hope this helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3uWO...ature=youtu.be

kahloq

I also forgot to mention that I put the inboard flaps on a separate channel and put the travel adjustment to +150/-150 compared to the +100/-100 of the mid wing flap sections.

gonsos

kahloq What prop did you finally used? I was thinking in the same motor but your combo 18/10 8S and Eflite 90 motor shows approximately 2.400 W what I believe is far too much for the motor. Am I right?
I’m thinking in 18/10 Hyperion Zs403512 7S2P 3300mAh 1.700W. The motor is 70gr heavier than E-flite so I expect I won't nedd to add any waste lead.

kahloq

Im actually using an 18x12 turnigy type E wood prop. Specs on Horizonhobby's site show 1800 watts for an eflite power90....however, E-flite and horizon always spec their motors really conservative.
While flying this plane, ive never went full throttle except in takeoff. I dont need to fly it max throttle and that was part of the reason I set my plane up the way I did....ie MAssive prop...high pitch and I can cruise around at 1/2 throttle and still be flying pretty darn quick AND get good long 8-9 min flights.

Im not new in any respect to electric setups and I know what Im doing and how I want my planes to fly. No one has to use the same setup I do.

Use whatever motor you want. My setup works quite well for me and not needing to add but 1oz of lead was a bonus.

gonsos

Thanks kahloq,
I only wanted to be sure that E-Flite 90 is able to hold that setup. Very useful information.

JazzboneCuit

'Lo all....Finally started the build a couple nights ago and started with the wing section, everything looks great...added some extra epoxy to the mounting blocks for a little added piece of mind...
Having a little issue with the outer flaps though...Iwent by the book and dropped in the flap servo and cut a push rod to the exact length it called for...but when Ifeed the rod through and check the angle of deflection, there is not near what it calls for. The rods are attached to the control horns it calls for (inner hole on servo arm and outer hole on control horn)...are others having similar issues? I'll try moving the rod to the outter hole on the servo when I get back to it tonight. Itried flipping the servo around thinking Idropped it in backwards, but pretty sure it's positioned right...when installed in the wing, the control horn is closest to the leading edge of the wing...everyone else setting these up by the book?

Jazzbone

kahloq

Answered u on rcg. Also...I put the travel adjustment for the inner flaps at max 150 instead of default 100 I n the radio.

ashveratu

I posted this brief video of my flap setup on rcgroups earlier. I hope it helps some. FYI, the throws on the flaps fall about 4mm short of the manuals recommendations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3uWOGiHn2k

JazzboneCuit

Thanks, dont know how i missed that vid....
I know digital servos are noisy, but these spektrums are something else....

Jazzbone

Doug D.

OKay guys! Who has actualy made some flite time happen on this ARF? I got mine earlier this year and have been assembling it as per the assembly manual.
I've installed a Saito 1.25, Hitec and Futaba servos, Futaba TX and RX. Haven't balanced it yet, but I'm thinking at least a pound or more in the nose. There are a few issues that I don't like, but I can live with some and changed others. It's an ARF!
Anyway what kind of flite characteristics does this model have? And how close are they to the real thing that I've read about for so many years? We have a Top Gun modeler in our club that has flow a sratch built Emil for a few times at that event (Top Gun) and he doesn't say much nice about this ARF.

Thanks,

Doug D.

ilmiglia

Hi Doug , I'm flying my H9 (electric setup so the TOW is 6+ Kg) Me109 since august and I like it. Is not a initial pilot plane. The TO is always tricky, without a gyro on the rudder she has a tendency to go to the left no matter how rudder inputs you give.I use 1/2 flap. Normaly I advance slowly the power until the tail rise and then gently I give max power. 8 on10 times it works fine. If you do not coordinate well the throttle with the rudder and elevator the risk is to touch the ground with the wingtip and then is just a matter of luck. As I heard from Kahaloq the use of the gyro will neutralize the problem. When in the air I notice that when I retract the gear during the turn the plane react wird (no good close to the ground) so I always rise the gear in level flight and no more problems. The fly is very fluid, scale and light. Of course all the radio inputs must be gently and progressive. All fighter manouvres are easy and you can fly inverted with no problems. I set the flaps as instructions with 3 seconds delayand no strange reactions during the deployments. With full flaps the speed is low for a slow flyby but for the landing I prefere keep the speed higher assisting the landing with 1/4 of power. When crossing the threshold at about 3 feet,
cut the power slowly and flare very gently until the main touch the ground and waiting fot the tail touching and let the speed going to zero before any turns. Always perfect soft and straight. So at the end, for an ARF the Me109 is a good flying model. With my E setup I fly 7 minutes + a goaround flying a mix program, slow and fast or up manouvres and1/2 power flyby. I'm very satisfied.

Doug D.

Thanks ilmigila,
I'm familiar with several .60 sized warbirds. TF P47, Corsair, Texan, and a few others from varius manufactures. Most need to have the tails brought up to gain rudder effectivness. The 109 would be more so considering the size of the rudder. Even the full size 109's when flown by experienced pilots brought the tail up quickly during the takeoff runs.
I should have mine completely ready by febuary, interesting coment about gear retraction. I will note that on my maiden flites.
If you like warbirds the Dewoitine D.520 by Seagull is a solid flyer. The ARF needs careful attention during assembly, but it flies well. I flew one for about a year until battery issues caused its demise (crash). Really enjoyed it. I plan on replacing it soon.
Thanks for your comments and insites, would love to hear from anybody else as well!

Doug D.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

The inner flap is not a flap put operates in conjunction with the engine cooling system.

Doug D.

Okay ilmiglia,
My 109 has made several flights now and I'm happy with it so far. I'm having no issue on takeoff, advancing the throttle steadily and not to fast, the model tracks well with some rudder input and is airborne quick and easy. Landings are pretty easy as well, a little power on and some flap, very nice. Not crazy about cross winds though. But a lot of warbirds aren't.
It gets its' share of attention at the field as well.

Thanks,

Doug D.

Clerk Bill

My Feedback: (2)

How does the Hanger 9 60 ME109 Fly? I have one ready to go, can you give me some tips for first flight?

Clerk Bill

My Feedback: (2)

I installed a Saito 125 in mine and it still needed 22oz. to balance.

Thanks for all the tips

Bill

KI8FR

I wonder how this plane would do with a gaser in it. what do you all think?

danpos

Has anyone tried a Saito 120 or Saito 150 in this plane yet?
I'm wondering how it balanced with the extra weight. And also how the engines fit?

wallace.tharp

Doug D, good info on all tail dragers, but the reason to raise the tail as soon as possible is to eliminate "P Factor," the downward blade of the prop pushing far more air than the upward blade because of the angle of the prop/airplane into the oncoming wind. That as you probably already know is just one of the multiple factors in a "left turning tendency" of all tail wheel aircraft with standard turning props. Opposite "P Factor" effect on some English opposite turning engines. Didn't mean to offend, or PHD the subject but I was a CFII, and I am still a regular R/C flyer.. regards, wallace.tharp

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

If you want to help negate the "P" factor put some positive incidence in the horizontal stabilizer. H9 has started doing this on its large ARFs. The tail comes up quickly and you maintain full rudder authority. Once airborne you most trim the elevator to maintain level flight.

wallace.tharp

Fly Catch, makes sense. Ever watch Super Short field Take Off and landing videos taken in Alaska? Some guys in Full Scale aircraft like Super Cubs will hold the tail up level and hold the brakes and control "P Factor" that way." I use the old, (keep the tail wheel on the ground for the first part of the takeoff run with up elevator, continue coming in with power smoothly, then use forward elevator/ stick pressure to bring the aircraft up to just slightly more than level with the runway, anything past about one third power will push enough wind past the rudder to allow effective rudder steering, all this time you are holding the proper amount of right rudder to keep her going straight allowing for the other 3 factors that cause the right turn tendency. Souds simple.. not in R/C or fulls scale. With practice and a really good airplane, pros and good amatures can make it all look simple. Me? Sometimes yes, other times not so much.

wallace.tharp

Flycatch, I flew for Continental RPVs, Barstow, Ca., from late 1999 to Feb. 2003. You one of those guys? You know any of those guys? wallace.tharp

Oosiksmith

My Feedback: (1)

Have been watching the net for the wheels to this plane for a long time and thought I'd take the long shot and ask if anyone has a set that they would be willing to part with.

Looking for the 3.5 inch Hangar 9 Bf-109 wheels, HAN278513.

Thanks.

WWIIP38

My Feedback: (43)

These are larger but might work; https://www.sunshine-modellbau.de/ra...-mt-querprofil