andym817

Well, after a stupid battery mistake (my fault) I ordered a second ESM Dauntless today. I didn't post the last build but if anyone is interested I'll be glad to post this one step by step. My first one flew VERY nice and I'll be doing this one just like it.

telejojo

Ok I'll be the first to ask what happened?

andym817

I didn't double check my batteries before I took off. I charged the night before and I think I charged the ignition battery twice. Instead of charging them and putting them in the plane as I go, I laid the charged battery on the bench next to the RX battery then went back in the house to help my wife bring in some stuff from the car. I came back out and plugged in what I thought was the RX battery and charged it then put them both back in the plane.

I also didn't bother to check to see what the charge on them was at the field (shame on me). I took off and flew for a while and all was great until I made the turn on final and hit the flaps. With all the other control inputs the flaps were just too much and the RX went to failsafe with the low voltage. She went straight in from about 50 -75 feet. The airframe is totaled but most everything else is good.

When I checked the batteries one cell on my RX battery was @ 3.04V and the other was at 2.85V w/ no load. They dropped to 2.75V and 2.2V under 4 amp load. I did charge it back up (I thought it would fail because lipo's aren't supposed to be that discharged) and it took the full charge. It was an 1800 2 cell lipo and held 1810mAh. Needless to say, this one is scary and won't be going in the new build. I'm even considering firing my flight crew.

andym817

This is how she looked before. I didn't take any after the crash, the debris field was way too large.

knotnuts

Did you do the flaps/air brakes per the kit instructions? I'm building one at the present and this area leaves me with some doubts...

andym817

The dive brakes are a little bit of a challenge but they do work. My push rods actually survived the crash. They are a little crude and will be nicer on the second bird but here is a pic.

I had to cut a hole almost 1" square in the trailing edge to be able to work with it but they turned out good with no visible linkage.

I used a wheel collar, 2 long and 1 short push rods.

1) Attach the short push rod to the servo arm with the supplied push rod connector and be sure to leave a little extra rod sticking out the back side so you can make adjustments.
2) Slip the wheel collar over the short push rod and install the servo.
3) Open the dive brakes and slip the long push rods into the hole you cut in the trailing edge of the wing.
4) Attach the push rods to the brass connectors they tell you to install in each flap.
5) Pinch all the push rods together and slide the wheel collar over them.
6) Align the dive brakes with the rest of the trailing edge of the wing and tighten the wheel collar
7) For extra insurance I silver soldered all the push rods and wheel collar together ( BE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING WHERE YOU WANT IT BEFORE YOU SOLDER!!!!)

Mine worked great, I only tried them in flight one time and that was enough for me. They are like throwing a sea anchor out of you boat at 30 MPH and will definitely put you into a dive.

I'll use my camera for pictures on the actual build instead of my phone. If you need better pics for your question let me know.

knotnuts

Andy, I'd really like to separate the Dive Breaks from the Flaps. The only way that I can see to do that is by using an additional servo. I just don't like the design that won't allow that. It just looks like trouble to me. Are you using the center section flap only for landing? How effective is it?

andym817

Honestly you don't need the outer flaps at all. This plane flies very smooth and lands very easy. It has a pretty thick airfoil and a lot of drag so she slows down pretty fast. I have used the center flap to land and it does help some but it makes the plane have even more drag and it seems to get a little mushy on the controls when it get that slow. My first one was 16.7 lbs dry! So much for the 13-14lbs in the manual. Hopefully I'll be able to get this one down around 15.7-16 lbs. I am using an Evolution GT 26 with a custom muffler turning a 16x10 APC 2 blade and have excellent throttle response. The three blade I was running was a little sluggish and made me nervous.

What radio are you going to use? That will make a big difference on setup. Mine is an Airtronics 8ch and I had just enough to get everything working like I wanted it.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

"I'm even considering firing my flight crew."

Sounds like the crew chief needs to go, not the flight crew. They have suffered enough.

andym817

The "General" around here is still punishing him. She said she was going to have my name changed to Homer Simpson!!!![X(]

At least she let me order another one the day they came back in stock.

knotnuts

I'll be using a JR 9503. I'm also going electric with the Power 160 and 10S 5000's.

flyingfrog007

hey i am in the build right now i am going to put a 28 gas in it i was wondering if you could tell me if the right thrust is built in or do i have to put it in thanks for any help you can give me. right now i am trying to build a cockpit for it.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Lay a straight edge across the firewall. You call see the 3 deg or so thrust angle, if it exists. My guess is that they did build in thrust to the right. You can also place the engine on the firewall temporarily, and measure each prop tip to a common point like the rear of the vertical stab. Right thrust will require the engine to be slightly left of center at the firewall, to keep the spinner in the center of the cowl. You probably realize all this, but for the benefit of those new to all this, these are basic considerations for engine installs.

On heavier planes, this is less of an issue. On my 50lb P-47, the engine is 0 angle to the thrust line, the it flies great. The lighter the plane (in wing loading), the more you see a benefit for up to about 3 degrees right thrust. The rudder should be able to take care of the rest.

flyingfrog007

ok i know all of that but the prob is a part of the fuse sticks out about 3 in past the firewall and there is no place to measure from thought thanks for the great advice.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Take a quart can of paint, or something similar, and put it on the firewall. That should get you past the fuse side. Take your reading.

andym817

I didn't worry about it. Mine flew great. straight as an arrow. Center it up and bolt her down. On the maiden flight I set all the control surfaces at neutral, took off and only added 1 click of right aileron and 2 clicks of down trim and she flew straight as an arrow hands off at all but the lowest throttle settings.

flyingfrog007

thank u very much. i talked to tomas at vq warbirds last night and he said the same thing so i am going to give it a fly

flyingfrog007

hey andym817
when are you going to get back to work on your dauntless.
arf pros has the new ones in stock.

andym817

I got the tracking # from Tomas at VQ Warbirds today so she should be here SOON. It will be a fast build since I already know how it all goes together. Hang in there and I'll have pics and details as soon as she get here!

flyingfrog007

wher did you put your air tank? with all the stuff in her i am running out of room.

andym817

I didn't install a cockpit kit so I stuck it to the top of the fuse behind the servo tray. If you have a cockpit kit in there you are sure to be short on space. Where are your batteries going?

flyingfrog007

the motor battery is going in the void between the fire wall and the fuel tank. the recever battery went between the two cockpits. the servo try got moved behind the rear cockpit. found a place for the air tank .
i cut open the bomb and put it in there. epoxyed it back together ran the airline out the back and into the wing. made it where it will not come off.

andym817

That's pretty sharp! I will warn you about the CG before you go too far. You want EVERYTHING as far forward as you can get it. I was going to run a tuned pipe on mine through the inside of the fuse and let it exit through a small hole just behind the wing. That idea didn't work out. Just the weight of that pipe (around 7 oz with 4 oz behind the CG) made me have to add a ton of weight to the nose to get a 4 1/2" balance. Before you sew everything up be sure to check the balance. You may be OK being electric depending on how big your main battery is and how far forward you are able to go. I'd like to see your set up, I'm doing an electric P-38 (80+ inches) right now while I'm waiting on the Dauntless to get here and appreciate any ideas and experience anyone else has about how the bigger electrics balance out in the end.

flyingfrog007

ok i thought i said i was going to put a heavy 30cc gas in the front. sorry.. i put the heavy 4.8 volt in the front along with the electronic controll box. this is because i had to move the servos to the cg. i then put a life 6.6 to the back. will get pics pretty soon.

andym817

Ah ha! That makes more sense. Pics would be great! Mine shows it left Jacksonville, Florida this morning so it should be here Monday.