ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
#376
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Hay Flandrumjr,
My PTE 36 tipped the scales at 1135 grams, or 2.502 lbs. That is with the standoffs, ignition and muffler installed. Your Evolution 7/35 weights in at 3.1 lbs ready to fly. I ended up adding just over one pound of lead to my nose, not counting two "sub-C" 3300 mha five cell and two 2200 mha batteries to the nose area. Your Evolution will fit into the cowl right nice and even with the added weight of the radial engine, your still safe, for you will most probably still need nose weight. If you do go with this combination, do read through this forum and there are a couple of modifications you may want to do. Above all...toss out the pull/pull wires that come in the kit and get you some really high quality wire kits for your stab and rudder. Also take a good look at the hardware that comes with the kit and change out what does not fit your specifications. I replaced all of mine in the kit with high quality goodies. The rest is mostly a straight forward build, just remember the kit builds tail heavy. I would love to see how your build goes and if you do go with a radial engine...your going to have quite a following here in this forum. Do keep us informed and please...lots of pictures.
Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui
My PTE 36 tipped the scales at 1135 grams, or 2.502 lbs. That is with the standoffs, ignition and muffler installed. Your Evolution 7/35 weights in at 3.1 lbs ready to fly. I ended up adding just over one pound of lead to my nose, not counting two "sub-C" 3300 mha five cell and two 2200 mha batteries to the nose area. Your Evolution will fit into the cowl right nice and even with the added weight of the radial engine, your still safe, for you will most probably still need nose weight. If you do go with this combination, do read through this forum and there are a couple of modifications you may want to do. Above all...toss out the pull/pull wires that come in the kit and get you some really high quality wire kits for your stab and rudder. Also take a good look at the hardware that comes with the kit and change out what does not fit your specifications. I replaced all of mine in the kit with high quality goodies. The rest is mostly a straight forward build, just remember the kit builds tail heavy. I would love to see how your build goes and if you do go with a radial engine...your going to have quite a following here in this forum. Do keep us informed and please...lots of pictures.
Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui
#377
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Thanks for the advise and info Bob, however I am a little concerned about the availability of parts later on. After looking at the TBM site and noticing at the number of planes that are not in stock. Whats going on? Are other ESM dealers in the same shape? Don't want to build and spend a lot of money on a bird that will be discontinued. Anyone else have concerns or may have some inside information?
#378
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Hay FlandrumJr.
T.B.M. is not the only company selling the airframe of the ESM F6F. There are two more that I know of...
http://www.magnumrc.com/
http://www.vqwarbirds.com/index.html
I have personal experience with both these other companies and have had excellent service from both. VQWarbirds is operated by Tomas, and you will not find a better man to deal with in the hobby. He will tell you straight up what is available and Magnum RC has been good to me too.
The ESM F6F is a great flying model and its the only choice in the 35cc class gas engine size, that I know of. Its a very predictable flying model and a sweet heart on landing. Just carry a bit of power down on final, especially with full flaps...carry 1/3 power down on your final approach and as you near the runway, back off on the throttle. I am using Sierra landing gear, and its the best in the business for retracts. You may get Sierra gear from VQ if you buy your model from Tomas, and its the best I know of. I have read that there has been issues with folks getting a hold of Sierra Giant Scale, so you may want to find his gear that is in stock with one of the companies that sell the ESM F6F. Down and Locked has landing gear that will work too and folks seem to like them. Down and Locked are electrical servo operated landing gear, and they can convert air operated landing gear to electrical servo operated units if you like. There is also Robart landing gear, and its solid stuff, though not cheap...neither is Sierra gear...expensive...but solid.
http://www.sierragiant.com/
http://www.downandlocked.com/
http://robart.com/
As far as getting parts for your F6F...you will need to contact the different companies about obtaining spares in case of a less then perfect landing, but don't let this keep you from this model. I've been flying mine for a year or so now and its my favorite WWII fighter. Not to many of these at the flying field and there are multitude of colors that this fighter was painted in. Mine is in U.S.S. Bunker Hill, colors, but believe me...there are some very colorful paint configurations for this fighter.
The F6F shot down more aircraft then any other WWII fighter and not commonly seen on the model airfield. I've the only one at our field, and the only one in Hawaii right now. Its a solid flying model...
Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui
T.B.M. is not the only company selling the airframe of the ESM F6F. There are two more that I know of...
http://www.magnumrc.com/
http://www.vqwarbirds.com/index.html
I have personal experience with both these other companies and have had excellent service from both. VQWarbirds is operated by Tomas, and you will not find a better man to deal with in the hobby. He will tell you straight up what is available and Magnum RC has been good to me too.
The ESM F6F is a great flying model and its the only choice in the 35cc class gas engine size, that I know of. Its a very predictable flying model and a sweet heart on landing. Just carry a bit of power down on final, especially with full flaps...carry 1/3 power down on your final approach and as you near the runway, back off on the throttle. I am using Sierra landing gear, and its the best in the business for retracts. You may get Sierra gear from VQ if you buy your model from Tomas, and its the best I know of. I have read that there has been issues with folks getting a hold of Sierra Giant Scale, so you may want to find his gear that is in stock with one of the companies that sell the ESM F6F. Down and Locked has landing gear that will work too and folks seem to like them. Down and Locked are electrical servo operated landing gear, and they can convert air operated landing gear to electrical servo operated units if you like. There is also Robart landing gear, and its solid stuff, though not cheap...neither is Sierra gear...expensive...but solid.
http://www.sierragiant.com/
http://www.downandlocked.com/
http://robart.com/
As far as getting parts for your F6F...you will need to contact the different companies about obtaining spares in case of a less then perfect landing, but don't let this keep you from this model. I've been flying mine for a year or so now and its my favorite WWII fighter. Not to many of these at the flying field and there are multitude of colors that this fighter was painted in. Mine is in U.S.S. Bunker Hill, colors, but believe me...there are some very colorful paint configurations for this fighter.
The F6F shot down more aircraft then any other WWII fighter and not commonly seen on the model airfield. I've the only one at our field, and the only one in Hawaii right now. Its a solid flying model...
Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui
#380
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Hi Guys,
I flew my ESM F6F today and managed to get four flights on the model this morning. Again...calm winds...very unusual and did many touch and goes all day. I managed to do full flap landings and was pleasantly surprised at how the model responded to full flaps. It seems the nose pitches down just a bit with full flaps deployed, and with caring a little power with full flaps, managed to do several squeaker wheel landings. Yes...the Sierra retracts help quite a bit, but really had a lot of fun. Its the natural nose down with full flaps that really makes wheel landings easy and beautiful. The secret for me, was keeping a little power on, during the approach. I did not let the model slow down at all on approach and didn't pull all the power off, until I touched down.
I needed to re-install the PTE 36R, for I was unable to get the VVRC Twin Cyl. 40cc gas engine to fit into the cowl-w/stock mufflers (there are no in-cowl mufflers available right now for the VVRC Twin 40cc gas engine), with out doing some major surgery to the cowl. Cutting up the cowl was a no-go for me, and since T.B.M. shipped back my PTE 36R, I reinstalled the engine. Now get this straight...R&Ring gas engines is not my idea of having fun, but what was I to do. I am not able to get a new cowl from T.B.M., so it was either cut up the only cowl I had, or reinstall the PTE gas engine.
The engine I got back from T.B.M., my PTE 36R, ran like a champ, right out of the box. I sent it in for a warrantee repair and the folks at T.B.M. did very nice work to the engine. It is even stronger now then before, and turning a Master Air Screw Scimitar wood 18x10 prop, hauled the F6F @ 20#'s almost vertical. It had a new level of power and I have no idea what the T.B.M. engine shop did to the engine, but it hauls this war bird with more gusto and power. I'm turning 7700 to 7750 RPM with the M.A.S. prop and the engine is rock solid. Great idle and transition to full power is as good as I would ever hope for.
We have a scale meet this coming Saturday and I do plan on flying my F6F at club flying field.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I flew my ESM F6F today and managed to get four flights on the model this morning. Again...calm winds...very unusual and did many touch and goes all day. I managed to do full flap landings and was pleasantly surprised at how the model responded to full flaps. It seems the nose pitches down just a bit with full flaps deployed, and with caring a little power with full flaps, managed to do several squeaker wheel landings. Yes...the Sierra retracts help quite a bit, but really had a lot of fun. Its the natural nose down with full flaps that really makes wheel landings easy and beautiful. The secret for me, was keeping a little power on, during the approach. I did not let the model slow down at all on approach and didn't pull all the power off, until I touched down.
I needed to re-install the PTE 36R, for I was unable to get the VVRC Twin Cyl. 40cc gas engine to fit into the cowl-w/stock mufflers (there are no in-cowl mufflers available right now for the VVRC Twin 40cc gas engine), with out doing some major surgery to the cowl. Cutting up the cowl was a no-go for me, and since T.B.M. shipped back my PTE 36R, I reinstalled the engine. Now get this straight...R&Ring gas engines is not my idea of having fun, but what was I to do. I am not able to get a new cowl from T.B.M., so it was either cut up the only cowl I had, or reinstall the PTE gas engine.
The engine I got back from T.B.M., my PTE 36R, ran like a champ, right out of the box. I sent it in for a warrantee repair and the folks at T.B.M. did very nice work to the engine. It is even stronger now then before, and turning a Master Air Screw Scimitar wood 18x10 prop, hauled the F6F @ 20#'s almost vertical. It had a new level of power and I have no idea what the T.B.M. engine shop did to the engine, but it hauls this war bird with more gusto and power. I'm turning 7700 to 7750 RPM with the M.A.S. prop and the engine is rock solid. Great idle and transition to full power is as good as I would ever hope for.
We have a scale meet this coming Saturday and I do plan on flying my F6F at club flying field.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
#381
Thread Starter
Hello ESM Hellcat guys. I lost my Hellcat about a year and a half ago with receiver failure. It flew away, crashed going straight down almost at full throttle. Recovered after corn harvest. Not much left. I sent the retracts back to Sierra. Totally rebuilt and returned. Cost some, but not as much as a new set. They worked great and I highly recommend. Just saw that Tomas at VQ Warbirds finally has some Hellcats in stock so ordered one right away while still in stock. Also I already have a replacement canopy (rare). I had a G38 in the first one. It would fly probably scale but really slowed down at the top of a big loop. Or maybe I just like my warbirds over powered. Looked up the specs a saw that a G38 is only rated at 2.2 hp. that is not much for a 70 oz engine although nose weight is needed. The G38 is rebuildable but might like more power but concerned about the short cowl and the rear carbs on the newer engines. I may try to alter the flaps to make more scale. Maybe DLE 35 or maybe even a 55? What are your thoughts on engines for this plane? Does any one have the measurements from the firewall to front of cowling? I didn't write it down.
#382
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Is this a new G38 with low time? Because a G38 should haul the mail with a 22x8 or 20x10, that is if its well broken in ( 3+ gallons). What Props are you using? I found MA black props works great for warbirds. No need for the expensive stuff. If you still need more punch then I would go with a 50. Head might be sticking out though.
#383
Thread Starter
The G38 was will broke in. In fact had been through a crash. Crank, bearings and seals were replaced. I forget the figures, but looked up the engine specs and it was turning rated rpm with a 18-10 two blade so it was putting out rated power. But rated power is only 2.2 hp. The DLE 35 is rated at almost 4 hp, almost double. I was later using a Zoar three blade 18-8 prop. I may have lost a little thrust with the 3 blade but liked the way it looked. I may go ahead and rebuild the G38 again. Need to put the runout gage on it to see if crank is bent (probably), needs new carb insulator block and muffler for sure.
#384
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How about this? Gas or Glow...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrBQkKMIlno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdvOGg9t9cM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrBQkKMIlno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdvOGg9t9cM
#385
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Ok, yes the 3-blade definitely caused you to loose thrust and a 18x10 will give you forward speed but your vertical may be week. Try the 20x8 if you have clearance that should give you good all around performance. Remember don`t look for a screaming engine , keep your RPMs around 6800 and you should be good.
Funny you mention your crank may be bent , mine is too, need to get it fixed. Bennett was my guy for that . I got my engine from him. So if you have a place to get yours fixed please let me know.
Funny you mention your crank may be bent , mine is too, need to get it fixed. Bennett was my guy for that . I got my engine from him. So if you have a place to get yours fixed please let me know.
Last edited by 91zulu; 01-23-2016 at 09:47 PM.
#386
Thread Starter
I took delivery of the Hellcat from VQ Warbirds. Box arrived in good shape. Still haven't decided on rebuilding the G-38 or getting a newer more powerful engine. I was considering getting a newer engine and getting a Higgley very heavy hub to add the weight needed. (that is as far forward as you can go). However, with the four bolt pattern prop hubs on the newer engines, don't know how it can use the heavy hub.
#387
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You are going to need more than a heavy nut to balance that bird with most of the newer engines,Mix some steel powder and place it in the front of the cowl, around the nose. Then at the points where the screws will be holding the cowl to the fuse at the inside, glue some metal strips so that the weight of the cowl would not tear the glass apart.
#388
Thread Starter
I've made up my mind. I'm rebuilding the G 38. I have enough good parts to put an engine together. It will last forever (if I can stop burying it in the ground) and has the weight I need anyway. Just need to order a muffler. I think I'll go with a Bisson as I can't keep the Bennett pipes on the muffler very well.
#390
Thread Starter
Finally got home and had time to start on the G 38. Had new bearings, crank and seals in stock. Repaired carb and muffler. I got the engine fixed without having to order any parts. I've got parts for two more G-38s but need to send out crankshafts for repairs. Now mounted on the engine stand but too cold to go outside to try to test run.
#392
Thread Starter
91zulu, a club member got a twisted and bent G-38 crank straightened by BH Hanson Products. Only cost about $15-20 at the time. They have a web site: Google them. Ph no. 570-689-4561. [email protected] . Located in Lake Ariel, PA. I have e-mailed for info about them fixing three crank shafts. Two are slightly bent and twisted, one just bent. I got the engines used and cheap so if I can get them fixed, I'll be in good shape. I'll overhaul with new bearings, seals and rings.
#394
Thread Starter
Hello, 91 zulu. Sent my three bent cranks to Al at Hanson. I hope he can fix at least two of them. Had to change out the magneto coil. After that, the rebuilt G-38 started and ran ok. So now I am ready to start on Hellcat II. I usually start with the engine installation because I can stand the fuselage on the tail and secure it. Then can carefully place the engine.
#396
Thread Starter
Al from Hanson called. He fixed two of my three crankshafts. Couldn't fix one. $46.00 with postage. Can't beat that. However tacked engine with 18-10 two blade and only turns up 6,030 rpm. Otherwise sound good, running smooth, good idle at 1,800 rpm and good transition. According to engine specs, supposed to turn the prop 7,200. Scratching my head. ???
#397
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I have pulled my ESM Hellcat out of 4 years of storage and to finish it up. Sorting out a few issues with the elevators but everything else has come together nicely. The DLE-35 RA fits entirely inside the cowl minus two small holes for the exhaust which are hardly noticeable. I am still scratching my head a bit trying to solve the throttle linkage puzzle. Anyone out there with a DLE-35 willing to share their solution to configuring the throttle. It goes through the firewall near the carb which puts it inline with the fuel tank blocking a direct path to the servo. Want to make it as simple as possible to avoid issues in the air.
James
James
#398
Thread Starter
fa 18frog, I'm still considering the DLE 35 RA for the Hellcat as it simply has more power than the G-38. Do you have any photos of your set up? I thought the DLE 35 was too long to fit in this cowl. I figure I can come up with something for the throttle linkage. Maybe a longer throttle arm that puts the linkage to the side golden rod or something similar that can be curved around the tank.
#399
Thread Starter
I have a second G-38 I put together, so to speak. This one is just like the other except has a new ring. It turns an 18-10 Xoar two blade 7,050 rpm. Much better then the other and near expected power.
#400
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RBean - Here are a few pictures of the DLE-35RA Install. Minus the two small holes everything fits nice and neat inside the cowl. Its been a while but I think the standoffs (60mm) that came with the engine work perfectly. I haven't put a prop on it yet but looks like I may need to add a washer or two for spacing. Still looking at fuel tank v throttle cable solutions. I saw in an earlier post that someone put the fuel tank above the servo tray. I use Fiji water bottle fuel tanks which likely won't fit above the servo tray. Still considering the options.....
James
James