Top Flite Giant Scale Spitfire ARF
11-07-2014, 09:44 AM
#401
11-07-2014, 10:50 AM
#402
Lifer; that is an excellent idea! I would never have thought of doing it that way; it's a lot less work and less complicated than the way I would do the wing dihedral change. That's what I like about these forums, someone always comes up with an easier way to do things. I will use this method to change the wing dihedral when I get my hands on the TF giant Spitfire.
Roger.
Roger.
We have to follow strict airworthiness engineering rules, regulations and policies in repairing, overhauling and the modifying of aircraft. The strict adherence to engineering rules, regulations and policies is due to safety concerns, as everyone knows, full size aircraft carry human beings and aircraft fly over inhabited dwellings, so safety is "Paramount".
I will have to train myself to think differently when building, repairing, or the modifying of RC aircraft. Although safety is still a concern, taking shortcuts to accomplish a given task is permitted and acceptable. The end result usually turns out the same; you have an airworthy, safe flying RC aircraft.
Roger
Last edited by ForcesR; 11-07-2014 at 10:53 AM.
11-07-2014, 02:06 PM
#403
Roger, it was a combination of 21 Merlins and Griffons plus three Hurricanes. Quite awesome for sure. Highly recommend A Duxford visit to every Spitfire/Warbird nut.
11-07-2014, 02:10 PM
#404
Hi,
I got the Spit in today. If anyone was considering getting the Hobby King gear for their Spit, those gear are a drop-in fit. I mean they're literally a drop-in. The mounting holes even line up with the pre-installed blind nuts on the back of the gear plates. The axle lands dead center in the well, too. The strut cover fits flush over it as though it was made for these gear! What luck considering I don't really care for the Robarts AND these are less than half the price (and come with a scale tail wheel strut). I never thought I'd advocate a HK item, but these gear held 110 psi for 30 hours so I'm installing them.
I got the Spit in today. If anyone was considering getting the Hobby King gear for their Spit, those gear are a drop-in fit. I mean they're literally a drop-in. The mounting holes even line up with the pre-installed blind nuts on the back of the gear plates. The axle lands dead center in the well, too. The strut cover fits flush over it as though it was made for these gear! What luck considering I don't really care for the Robarts AND these are less than half the price (and come with a scale tail wheel strut). I never thought I'd advocate a HK item, but these gear held 110 psi for 30 hours so I'm installing them.
11-07-2014, 02:54 PM
#405
I have no experience with the HK gear but read a thread on their similar-sized AT-6 and they indicated that the metal in the gear was soft enough to break, not bend but break. I have had zero problems with Robart gears except for a few leaks in the valve and the plastic tee's. And, like many others have experienced, Robart does not answer their emails.
11-07-2014, 03:11 PM
#406
I have no experience with the HK gear but read a thread on their similar-sized AT-6 and they indicated that the metal in the gear was soft enough to break, not bend but break. I have had zero problems with Robart gears except for a few leaks in the valve and the plastic tee's. And, like many others have experienced, Robart does not answer their emails.
Hi,
I, too, am totally inexperienced with HK landing gear. I asked on one of these threads and a fellow said his were great after a season of flying. Otherwise, I'd never consider it since I pretty much think all HK stuff is junk. These I have sitting here, and I can't even remember where I got them. Part of some trade, I'm sure. For me, my issues with Robart have been their rotating gear. The cheesy frames on the 150/148 and don't get me started on the 615's. Their reputation with me is a sight better than HK, though!
11-07-2014, 03:38 PM
#407
Is it just the photo or do the HK struts seem short? The wheel is not exactly centered, note the gap to the left. I only point this out because I had been considering ordering them, especially to get the tail strut.
Worked on the rudder a little today, the metal fairing will be changed, it's not actually attached yet, I'm not happy with it.
Worked on the rudder a little today, the metal fairing will be changed, it's not actually attached yet, I'm not happy with it.
11-07-2014, 04:01 PM
#408
Hi,
They're centered. Not dead-on, but maybe 1/32" off. The shadows in the pic make it look much worse than it really is. What aren't you happy with with your rudder? Looks good to me?
They're centered. Not dead-on, but maybe 1/32" off. The shadows in the pic make it look much worse than it really is. What aren't you happy with with your rudder? Looks good to me?
11-10-2014, 09:52 AM
#412
Hi,
This ARF is easiest to put together so far. I've got all the servos in, the wing joined, the main gear installed (though I can't decide whether to use the HK tail unit which looks good but is connected to the bottom of the rudder via springs for steering or use the stock one with pull-pull), cowling cut for the engine/muffler and all the decals on. I did some simple panel lines with a pencil and wanted the decals on first so the lines will go over them. The box came on Friday and I should have this one ready to go by this time tomorrow.
This ARF is easiest to put together so far. I've got all the servos in, the wing joined, the main gear installed (though I can't decide whether to use the HK tail unit which looks good but is connected to the bottom of the rudder via springs for steering or use the stock one with pull-pull), cowling cut for the engine/muffler and all the decals on. I did some simple panel lines with a pencil and wanted the decals on first so the lines will go over them. The box came on Friday and I should have this one ready to go by this time tomorrow.
11-13-2014, 03:35 AM
#413
Hi,
I ended up going with the stock tail unit since I didn't want to fiddle with installing some kind of hard-point into the base of the rudder for the steering spring arm. I never quite liked that system (with the springs) anyway. I'll find some other use for this nice-looking HK tail unit.
I did the mod with the aluminum grill on the cowl, too. It looked pretty cool and I think it'll help keep the 55 cool. For the EME on-board starter, I only had to open the cowl a tiny bit to accommodate it. All of the servos are in with all of the control surface linkages installed. I had a do-over with the tail pushrods because I guesstimated how much to cut off of the included 48" 4-40 rods, and I missed it by about 3". The dumb thing was I didn't notice it until I had done all of the bending/curving to get the drag and binding out of the rod where it exits the fuse plus installing the clevises and lock nuts. I flipped her over to solder the clevises at the servo end and noticed the rods were too short. Luckily, I had some in the GS Corsair box and borrowed those.
I ended up going with the stock tail unit since I didn't want to fiddle with installing some kind of hard-point into the base of the rudder for the steering spring arm. I never quite liked that system (with the springs) anyway. I'll find some other use for this nice-looking HK tail unit.
I did the mod with the aluminum grill on the cowl, too. It looked pretty cool and I think it'll help keep the 55 cool. For the EME on-board starter, I only had to open the cowl a tiny bit to accommodate it. All of the servos are in with all of the control surface linkages installed. I had a do-over with the tail pushrods because I guesstimated how much to cut off of the included 48" 4-40 rods, and I missed it by about 3". The dumb thing was I didn't notice it until I had done all of the bending/curving to get the drag and binding out of the rod where it exits the fuse plus installing the clevises and lock nuts. I flipped her over to solder the clevises at the servo end and noticed the rods were too short. Luckily, I had some in the GS Corsair box and borrowed those.
11-13-2014, 01:49 PM
#414
Hey Shaun, you wouldn't want to sell that tailwheel would ya?
Decided to put the rudder and elevators on hold till parts arrive. Here some other bits I've been working on.
The radiator scoops are now in their "correct" location. Since it overlaps the flap servo, I made them removable. Added evergreen styrene to simulate the radiators.
Detailed the 20mm cannons and added the outer wing .303 barrels. The cannon ends are aluminum tube with a drilled out nut CA'd in place. The .303s are brass tube. Correctly sized? Who knows for sure but I think they look the part.
Although the stock dummy exhaust manifolds are acceptable, I decided I wanted them to have a little more scale appearance. These are from a guy in England. I don't have the details right now but can get them. They're going to take some fiddling to get a proper fit, the engine box and ballast will need to be relieved to allow for them to fit as you can see in the last photo.
Probably focus on the fuse for the next few shop sessions. That will include blending the cowl in a bit better and making the radio hatch behind the cockpit for my switches and retract valve.
Decided to put the rudder and elevators on hold till parts arrive. Here some other bits I've been working on.
The radiator scoops are now in their "correct" location. Since it overlaps the flap servo, I made them removable. Added evergreen styrene to simulate the radiators.
Detailed the 20mm cannons and added the outer wing .303 barrels. The cannon ends are aluminum tube with a drilled out nut CA'd in place. The .303s are brass tube. Correctly sized? Who knows for sure but I think they look the part.
Although the stock dummy exhaust manifolds are acceptable, I decided I wanted them to have a little more scale appearance. These are from a guy in England. I don't have the details right now but can get them. They're going to take some fiddling to get a proper fit, the engine box and ballast will need to be relieved to allow for them to fit as you can see in the last photo.
Probably focus on the fuse for the next few shop sessions. That will include blending the cowl in a bit better and making the radio hatch behind the cockpit for my switches and retract valve.
11-14-2014, 04:47 AM
#415
SpitfireMKII; did you purchase the exhaust from Mike Skingle? I purchased exhausts, cannons and rear view mirror from Mike for my 89" WS ESM Spitfire, very impressed with what I received. The link is below if others are interested:
http://www.wsbudesign.f9.co.uk/acces...ns-cannons.htm
Roger
http://www.wsbudesign.f9.co.uk/acces...ns-cannons.htm
Roger
11-18-2014, 05:19 AM
#420
Hi Shaun, I just did this morning. Let's work through email instead of PMs. Yes I want it, let me know payment details at [email protected]
Many Thanks !
Mike
Many Thanks !
Mike
11-18-2014, 09:54 AM
#421
Hi,
This ARF is easiest to put together so far. I've got all the servos in, the wing joined, the main gear installed (though I can't decide whether to use the HK tail unit which looks good but is connected to the bottom of the rudder via springs for steering or use the stock one with pull-pull), cowling cut for the engine/muffler and all the decals on. I did some simple panel lines with a pencil and wanted the decals on first so the lines will go over them. The box came on Friday and I should have this one ready to go by this time tomorrow.
This ARF is easiest to put together so far. I've got all the servos in, the wing joined, the main gear installed (though I can't decide whether to use the HK tail unit which looks good but is connected to the bottom of the rudder via springs for steering or use the stock one with pull-pull), cowling cut for the engine/muffler and all the decals on. I did some simple panel lines with a pencil and wanted the decals on first so the lines will go over them. The box came on Friday and I should have this one ready to go by this time tomorrow.
11-21-2014, 12:10 AM
#422
Hi,
Any of you guys done a sliding canopy on your Spit? I just put one together. I didn't use brass channel but Plastruct styrene square tubing. The whole thing cost about $50 with the air cylinders and 4-5 hours to build and install.
Any of you guys done a sliding canopy on your Spit? I just put one together. I didn't use brass channel but Plastruct styrene square tubing. The whole thing cost about $50 with the air cylinders and 4-5 hours to build and install.
11-22-2014, 04:54 PM
#424
Hi,
Yeah, I did. How shall we proceed? Here's my canopy btw...
http://youtu.be/3vQ3eopMI18?list=UULzV1HEL2GMv7ReKPMp999A
Yeah, I did. How shall we proceed? Here's my canopy btw...
http://youtu.be/3vQ3eopMI18?list=UULzV1HEL2GMv7ReKPMp999A
11-23-2014, 04:58 AM
#425
