Large scale Luftwaffe/Axis forum..
#926
My Feedback: (1)
It is an L12, 100 mm, with 100-1 gear ratio. R denotes for RC use, which makes it 6 volt. I think this is digital servo based. It sounds like it.
There are a number of things going on in the mounting. I put a little tab on the ply tounge to keep the canopy from lifting up. This rides on spruce rails glued under the canopy floor on the inside of the fuse. I just drilled a hole in the canopy tongue to accept the clevis. On the end of the actuator, I just drilled and tapped the plastic insert that screws into the end of the actuator. I soft mounted the actuator in the middle as I will be running a 55 CC gasser and felt his may give it more life.
I have a small carbon rod on the canopy frame that slides into the front canopy frame when closed. This will keep the airflow from getting under it and throwing it off in flight. I am also adding a cockpit combing gasket around the edge of the canopy. Not only is this scale, it makes it look a lot better and really seals of the joint when closed. Pretty happy with it so far, as this is my first attempt at an operable canopy.
There are a number of things going on in the mounting. I put a little tab on the ply tounge to keep the canopy from lifting up. This rides on spruce rails glued under the canopy floor on the inside of the fuse. I just drilled a hole in the canopy tongue to accept the clevis. On the end of the actuator, I just drilled and tapped the plastic insert that screws into the end of the actuator. I soft mounted the actuator in the middle as I will be running a 55 CC gasser and felt his may give it more life.
I have a small carbon rod on the canopy frame that slides into the front canopy frame when closed. This will keep the airflow from getting under it and throwing it off in flight. I am also adding a cockpit combing gasket around the edge of the canopy. Not only is this scale, it makes it look a lot better and really seals of the joint when closed. Pretty happy with it so far, as this is my first attempt at an operable canopy.
#929
My Feedback: (1)
There are 2 screws holding mine in. It may end up being a "ship in a bottle" scenario for me in case of failure, but I will create access. I just wanted to keep it simple, and stick with the stock assemblies in the Andersen design. It works, but I may do things different down the road on another model, such as the FG Holman D9 I have.
Honestly, I do not have a lot of time to re-engineer this either, as I am way down the road on the build and am trying to get finished for a contest. Your method does look good Ram.
Honestly, I do not have a lot of time to re-engineer this either, as I am way down the road on the build and am trying to get finished for a contest. Your method does look good Ram.
#930
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
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The first fuse is out of the mold. Haven joined them because I'm not sure how well the mold will aline. Way to lightweight anyway. I might rough up the internals any add another layer of cloth to stiffen up certain areas.
But it to get an idea of the shape of the molds....
thanks
dave
But it to get an idea of the shape of the molds....
thanks
dave
#931
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (157)
The first fuse is out of the mold. Haven joined them because I'm not sure how well the mold will aline. Way to lightweight anyway. I might rough up the internals any add another layer of cloth to stiffen up certain areas.
But it to get an idea of the shape of the molds....
thanks
dave
But it to get an idea of the shape of the molds....
thanks
dave
#932
My Feedback: (1)
Now that I am getting back to a little more woodworking on my Andersen TA 152, the parts provided by PCK are terrible!
If anyone asks me where my plane came from down the road, I am going to just call it a scratch build. As I have re-cut at least 3/4 of the parts provided. PCK will deserve no credit for what I create, and if anything they slowed me down a ton. I cannot recommend PCK for any kit cutting anyone may be looking for.
If anyone asks me where my plane came from down the road, I am going to just call it a scratch build. As I have re-cut at least 3/4 of the parts provided. PCK will deserve no credit for what I create, and if anything they slowed me down a ton. I cannot recommend PCK for any kit cutting anyone may be looking for.
#933
My Feedback: (23)
Now that I am getting back to a little more woodworking on my Andersen TA 152, the parts provided by PCK are terrible!
If anyone asks me where my plane came from down the road, I am going to just call it a scratch build. As I have re-cut at least 3/4 of the parts provided. PCK will deserve no credit for what I create, and if anything they slowed me down a ton. I cannot recommend PCK for any kit cutting anyone may be looking for.
If anyone asks me where my plane came from down the road, I am going to just call it a scratch build. As I have re-cut at least 3/4 of the parts provided. PCK will deserve no credit for what I create, and if anything they slowed me down a ton. I cannot recommend PCK for any kit cutting anyone may be looking for.
#934
My Feedback: (1)
The parts are deceptively wrong! lol Like they are skewed. Some are fine, then some are wrong in just the width, or just the length.
As a machinist in a cabinet shop, I know what is going on, and it is lazy programming. Also, he just grabs scraps laying around to make a certain part. That is why he does not ship parts in full sheets for shipping protection. (Hence the bag of puzzle pieces for formers) This also explains why some ribs are 3/16" , or 1/8", or 3/32" When they should all be 1/8". I could go on and on! lol.
Look at this lower former. It is 1/4" over sized. So everything about it is wrong. The shoulder cuts for the stringers cannot be fixed. I will have to re cut this part. These kinds of items are the reason why you buy a kit. So you do not have to cut ply, and inside scroll cuts.
I have the wood, and the machines, so not a huge deal for me, but I did pay $450 for this thing. I learned my lesson hard, on my first kit cutter experience. If you want this work done, do some serious homework, and heed negative comments. Unfortunately, I did not find any before I ordered this kit.
On a positive note, I am in the middle of a Ziroli Stuka as well. I got my kit from National balsa. It is what you should expect. That plane has fallen together with no issues. Perfect wood as well. Not scraps thrown in a bag! lol
As a machinist in a cabinet shop, I know what is going on, and it is lazy programming. Also, he just grabs scraps laying around to make a certain part. That is why he does not ship parts in full sheets for shipping protection. (Hence the bag of puzzle pieces for formers) This also explains why some ribs are 3/16" , or 1/8", or 3/32" When they should all be 1/8". I could go on and on! lol.
Look at this lower former. It is 1/4" over sized. So everything about it is wrong. The shoulder cuts for the stringers cannot be fixed. I will have to re cut this part. These kinds of items are the reason why you buy a kit. So you do not have to cut ply, and inside scroll cuts.
I have the wood, and the machines, so not a huge deal for me, but I did pay $450 for this thing. I learned my lesson hard, on my first kit cutter experience. If you want this work done, do some serious homework, and heed negative comments. Unfortunately, I did not find any before I ordered this kit.
On a positive note, I am in the middle of a Ziroli Stuka as well. I got my kit from National balsa. It is what you should expect. That plane has fallen together with no issues. Perfect wood as well. Not scraps thrown in a bag! lol
Last edited by vertical grimmace; 11-08-2014 at 06:39 PM.
#940
My Feedback: (1)
Then the wing is built. I have a 3 piece wing. It can only be sheete so far until you get it mounted, which is where I am at now. My outer panes are essentially done. Pay close attention to the trailing edge. That is where this design is tricky.
#942
My Feedback: (1)
Thanks Ram, I hope you get to see it finished in person sometime.
I am going with a non retractable tailwheel. It is documented that they did not work anyway. What I am doing is using the Fork from my Sierra retract unit, then a simple nose gear assembly to give it steering. I will add some detail items to to make the strut look scale and hide the wire.
I am going with a non retractable tailwheel. It is documented that they did not work anyway. What I am doing is using the Fork from my Sierra retract unit, then a simple nose gear assembly to give it steering. I will add some detail items to to make the strut look scale and hide the wire.
#943
My Feedback: (23)
There is sort of a sequence that you need to follow. I did the Stab first, then the rudder, Then the fuse. The fin is built right away with the top fuse half, hanging the firewall over the edge of your bench. Then the cockpit has to be installed, top half of fuse sheeted.
Then the wing is built. I have a 3 piece wing. It can only be sheete so far until you get it mounted, which is where I am at now. My outer panes are essentially done. Pay close attention to the trailing edge. That is where this design is tricky.
Then the wing is built. I have a 3 piece wing. It can only be sheete so far until you get it mounted, which is where I am at now. My outer panes are essentially done. Pay close attention to the trailing edge. That is where this design is tricky.
Ok thanks. Ive got the stab framed up, i just need to install the Le cap and shape it. Ive been holding off on doing the elevatora and rudder as those are going to be laser cut interlocking parts.
Ive mostly beene debating on either framing up the wingsgo roughly the same stage yours are in and then starting the fuse, or just go straight into the fuselage.
#950
My Feedback: (1)