P47flyer

My Feedback: (6)

Are there any compatable crosslinkers available for the old version of Warbird Colors. I have four pints w no crosslinkers.

Dave H

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

You dont really need the cross linker. You can use the paint and then just fuel proof with clear.. thats what I do..

P47flyer

My Feedback: (6)

Bob,
What kind of clear are you using? I need something good to 30%nitro.

Dave H

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

If you're running 30% I'd be looking into epoxy

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Ditto on epoxy. 30% nitro is pretty high. Give Klass Kote a call and they can fix you right up.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

even with the cross linker the Nitro proof on WBC paint is 15% you might give Chuck Graves at www.warbirdcolors.com a shout and see if he has any,he just posted a while ago that he is selling product again

I know the water based poly is not fuel proof Varathane Diamond is a little tougher, and resists low nitro fuel when cured, but 30% is pretty corrosive fuel.

I have read some guys use the oil based poly to clear coat there models, not sure how fuel resistant it is and it does have a slight yellowing when painted over white.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Guys using the new Warbird Colors better read that main page again,, the formula has changed and is no long as fuel proof,, so it says.

I've used systems3 top coat LPU with the cross linker up to 20%. never tried it with 30,, but I have some Car 30%,, I'll run a test on it.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

You might need to consider klas kote clear. Epoxy paint.
Edwin

Tony Gag Jr.

My Feedback: (124)

Klass kote clear is great stuff.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

I have a warbird painted in Warbird colors that needs some touch ups, I've never used the stuff but have the cans of paint from the build.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Before the chemistry change, I used their primer, it works really well on fiberglass and fabric. Thinning and clean up is water. Clean right away. I dripped some on a pair of pliers and left it. That paint is still on there to this day. Pretty durable.
Edwin

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Warbird colors are water soluable so most of the time its water clean up. Windex also works to clean over spray etc.

TomCrump

I used a lacquer automotive high build primer, on my glassed airframe and fiberglass parts. The old WBC adhered to it extremely well.

The paint was thinned with lacquer thinner. I used it to to clean the gun, too.

I used distilled water to thin my WBC. Afterwards, initial gun clean up was with water, then I followed with lacquer thinner. I then disassembled the gun, and thoroughly cleaned it with lacquer thinner.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks all! I'm used to Latex so I"m hoping this will be a similar experience.

Whit

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

BTW,
I tested the finish with 30% car fuel, I poured directly on a part of the damaged float a couple times. Rubbed it with my fingers, scratched at it, it didn't do a thing to soften the clear coat, just sat there and evaporated. Still rock hard.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm is this the stuff you used it looks interesting

P47flyer

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the input. Looks like a lot better choice than the automotive clear I've been using.

Dave H

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Yes, I ordered it from there too, you need to use the crosslinker

No problem,,
The nice thing compared to lacquers is there is virtually no smell, can be used indoors, and water clean up also.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I think this is the paint and clear coats sold by http://www.nelsonhobby.com/

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

my local distributor only sells some of there product line, but has a alternate product he is checking for me made by Benjamin Moore that is a catalyzed WB clear, I will post info if it looks good

the system 3 stuff is 60$ a qt on there site not including shipping so its far from cheap but a qt should do a couple of planes at least, being presidents day and all the tech dept was closed today but I will find out more tomorrow on the other stuff and post the results

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Tim, a little is a lot,, I bought 2 4oz jars + the crosslinker,, I used about 2.5 oz to cover this
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...anchor/tm.htm#

32oz would last me a life time.

The only thing was I thought their shipping rates were a little high, but I'm very happy with the purchase after using it.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Call the Nelson guy and ask him if his stuff isn't the system 3 paints. I'm pretty sure it is. You can order small (hobby sized) quantities frome him.

I used his clear on my SE5a and my YA P-47. Works great on both applications.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

nice looking project thanks for the tip on the quantity of material

Mustang51

My Feedback: (25)

Hi guys,
Finally finishing up my P38 and have two routes to go with the paint. Couple of questions.
1) I have some "Warbird color" paint I was thinking about using. I have the cross linker but don't remember how much to add?
2) My motors are gas. Wasn't the cross link just for Nitro fuel?
3) Is the warbid colors fuel(gas) proof with or without the cross link?
4) Is the Testors "Model Master" paint fuel proof? Any experiance with this stuff? Very expensive i know, but they have a "faded O D Green" that looks nice.

Thanks,
Dave

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Dave,

Yes the cross linker was spefically for Nitro. To my knowledge there wasn't a need to use it when gas is being used. I use about 12 drops per Oz cross linker. Seems to work ok. I don't add the cross linker to the paint. I add it to the final clear coat only.

Testors is a hard enamel if you use the enamel variety (they have acrylic too, water base). I dont know if its totally fuel proof (gas). I painted to top OD portion of my mustang with it and never used clear. Running gas on the plane never seemed to effect it in any way. Would be easy to do a test though.

Testors is expensive BUT, coverage is superb!

See you at WOD bro