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Hmmmmmmm...could your priorities be wrong?

splinterz25

Okay guys it feels good to be back in the build room making molds; for those of you just joining in I'm casting the nose and turret in fiber glass.
The nose will be cast w/ a different resin than the turret and the nose will be much thicker as well; the holes for the glazing in the turret will be cut in after it is cast.

I'll be doing the same thing w/ the canopy, which you'll see me finish while I let the plaster set up for the nose and turret.

I use a box lined w/ duct tape for the nose mold and a small nut tin for the turret, the duct tape lets the cardboard box just peel away once the plaster has set the nut tin has a wax paper lining and just comes off easy w/ out adding anything.

I mix the plaster two parts dry plaster to one part water you only need fill the mold box / tin 2/3 's because the plug will displace the plaster to the top of the box/ tin.

Once you've waxed and spray release; I use hair spray it's cheep and easy to get a dollar stores, mix the plaster poor in to mold and then bang the box / tin on the table to drive as much air out of the plaster as you can.

Press the plug into the plaster making it come up flush to the side w/ out any poly/ glass and let it dry.

Once dry and the box / tin has been removed I use an old knife to trim off the really sharp corners now before it gets really hard and sharp; and put it under a heat lamp to start and dry out the plaster, this time I'm also going to put molds in the oven on low heat to dry out the plaster even more.

The last few times my resin didn't cure fully; I think this was due to extra moisture in the plaster.

Check out the step by step casting and I'll do the same w/ the canopy plug glassing
w/ poly and the casting of it as well.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay guys back at it again today; I started by covering the canopy w/ 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and WB poly, while I baked the plaster once again there was still moisture under the big plaster block.

So this time I placed both of them on a rack and ran the temp to 350 degrees for a 1/2 hour then bumped up the temp. to 375 degrees; the rack will allow the heat to get at all of the sides evenly.

I show once again step by step covering the plug w/ the glass cloth; cutting relief cuts only on the sharp corners so it will lay smooth on the foam, leave the excess hanging off the edges until dry then cut it off close to the plug w/ scissors or blade.

I put four coats of poly on my plugs sanding lightly in between w/ 220 grit; if the weave of the cloth is filled your good.

I found out (by accident) if you leave the lid of the water base poly slight off for a few weeks it thickens the poly so it takes fewer coats to fill the weave.

Once the plaster molds are dry and cool I show the glassing w/ resin; but in the mean time I'll keep on working on the canopy.

I've made another box lined w/ duct tape for this mold that is close to the shape of the piece.

I know there are a few of you wondering why I'm casting these in glass and not
vac -u - forming them; there's very little curve on these and the thin CLEAR plastic will be applied inside.

The other reason is the canopy is going to be removable and I wanted something more substantial for durability and was still thinking of making the turret rotate?
But I may rethink this?

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright I really like being at this part of the build I can jump around and work on many things while others are drying and having all the materials on hand helps also.

Let's see I now have four coats of poly on the canopy and it's trimmed ready for wax/ spray and to be cast in plaster, oh yea the mold box is ready lined w/ duct tape; you can also use clear packing tape for this.

Also I've now glued the top of the Vertical fin w/ Gorilla glue lining it up w/ my new laser level.

Now it will be ready to skin w/ 1/16" thick balsa sheeting.

Then I moved on to glassing the top pf the nacelles w/ 3/4 oz glass and DEFT sanding sealer and they now have two coats on them! (I love Deft for this it dries so fast)

My molds had cooled off and they had a few pin holes in side the nose cone mold so I use Fast -N -Final to fill them wiping it very smooth w/ my fingers. (for the corners I use a cotton swab to get it all removed so not to loose my shape) Now the molds are ready for Carnuba wax (car wax) and release spray (hair spray) it's really moving along now.

Next after I skin the tail I'll glass the whole FUSE's top side w/ deft; the bottom will get resin.

check it out,

splinterz25

Okay up early this morning and I'm pushing on to cast the nose and turret in glass and then set the canopy mold in plaster, followed by finishing skinning the top portion of the virt. stab and then glassing the top of the rest of the whole fuse w/ DEFT.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright midday report; Canopy plug waxed and ready to spray and mold into plaster.

I forgot to tell you guys to use about three coats of WB poly inside the molds before waxing; this is VERY IMPORTANT to seal the plaster.

Nose mold ready to cast fiber glass; I've had second thoughts on using the old Areo Marine Resin I had on hand it's at least two years old, So off to the store after I post and eat lunch to buy some new resin.

But I did have enough of the 3 M resin & hardener to cast the turret.

I also was able to get the Virt. Stab. skinned and rough shaped; I said this before I DO NOT RECOMMEND SKINNING the Stab, Virt. Stab and the Wing the way they have it on these drawings, I only did the Virt. Stab HIS way.

AND IT REALLY MAKES IT HARD TO GET A NICE SMOOTH FINISH.
So I'm still sanding on this waiting for filler to dry.

Check the progress so far today,

splinterz25

Well I didn't get back to the building yesterday by the time I got home from the store I had a really bad headache so I just rested the rest of the day.

But I have a new can of resin; this time it's Bondo but on farther inspection I noticed it's made by 3M .

The turret seams to have set up very well and I have trimmed the excess glass that was sticking above the mold off w/ scissors.

After a few cups of dark roast I'll head back into the build room to try and finish what I said I was going to do yesterday.

And then maybe if there's enough time move the planes one up stairs and one down stairs.

Back to it,

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay the midday report.. The canopy has been cast in plaster the nose has been cast in fiber glass; I tried to show you some step by step but it's hard to do you have to work very fast.

Here's what I did; I started w/ 2oz cloth for the outer layer Do NOT try doing some thing like this nose cone in full sheets, I used three the very tip of the nose and then two strips.

I had a bunch of leftover scraps 6oz cloth 2"x 2" squares & triangles that I used for the second layer, then strips of 6oz and finished w/ strips of 2 oz cloth around the top of the mold this is where it connects to the plane.

Then I moved on to glassing the Fuse. I started in the front because I'm still working on the tail by the time I get there it will be ready.

I used a large piece of 3/4oz glass cloth w/ a slight curve up to the area I had
earlier w/ the water base poly / pink foam parts; because I'm using DEFT sanding sealer I try not to get any on the foam areas at all, so not and take a chance on melting the pink foam.

Have a look,

splinterz25

Okay guys here's what I got done this afternoon; finished sanding the turret after it had some time to let the cast face get some air and dry a bit more, then I laid out the turret window lines.

After that I removed the foam plug from the plaster by melting it w/ acetone and used a large blade to trim the plaster where it over hung the plug, this will make it easier for casting the fiberglass.

Then I removed the casting of the nose cone from the plaster; the plaster came off in three pieces
After running it under water scrubbing it w/ an old tooth brush and sandpaper to remove all the plaster I'll let it dry until tomorrow.

It came out fine, there's a bit of cosmetic surgery needed and some sanding but it's very light & strong and will look great once primer has been applied.

I didn't get back to the fuse skinning but I pick up there tomorrow after I get the canopy ready to fiberglass and laid up.

Bruce

splinterz25

Guys I'm baking the Canopy plaster mold at 200 degrees and sanding the nose cone as were talking;


Today I'm trying to get the canopy laid up w/ glass & resin and the Fuse top half glassed w/ Deft
and work on the nose / turret.


Bruce

splinterz25

Okay my roll has slowed down a bit working on the nose and turret; I need to sand more off the bottom of the nose cone to level out the turret, I don't think I'll bother w/ making it rotate at this time.
I may come back at a later date and add that feature in? but I'm really trying to keep her as light as possible from here on out.

That's why I'm only using DEFT on the top side of the fuse for glassing but I'll use resin on the bottom and about an inch up the sides; once primed & painted w/ Rustoleum Pro she should be sealed fairly well, Don't for get I used Balsa Rite sealing all over the in side as well.

Check the progress so far today,

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I've made some more progress and also cleaned off half of the build rooms table and moved the BV-138 Fuse into the room.

The nose has been primed, spot puttied and wet sanded the canopy molt has been baked and it very dry ready to start Fast N Final, poly, wax and spray release.

I'm going to be building a Vac-U-Box set up using a few methods I seen people do all rapped into one and of course I'll be showing this step by step for those of you needing one also.

Making a list for supplies and heading to the store early and then hitting it hard I have the entire day to my self just for building.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay went to the store and got two 8" 1"x 1"ALUM L-Brackets for the frame of the Vac-U-Box and some ply, peg board,and wing nuts & bolts.
I've also ordered a heating element I'll have to make a metal lined box for that unless I can find one already made that will work.

It's really cool it has a thermostat built in it made for lighting charcoals for meat smokers the element is 16"x 11" x 3" and if it doesn't work I'll use it for my smoker.

And the progress continues prepping the canopy mold for fiberglass and glassing the top aft end of the fuse in between.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright the whole fuse is covered w/ 3/4 oz glass cloth and Deft; I'll go back once dry trimmed and sanded and cover the bottom w/ a thin coating of resin.

This will be easier because the piece of glass cloth will now not be able to move and cause puckers and wrinkles while putting the resin on w/ a card .

My mold for the canopy will be ready by the time I cover the bottom of the boat / fuse and I'll work that in as well at the same time.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I'm not going to get much done today were going to an outdoor concert for Fathers Day.
Happy Fathers day to everybody Enjoy your self !

I did how ever scratch out a quick drawing of the Vac-U-Box; the part over the heating element will be HINGED 1"x 1" ALUM - L- Bracket / stock w/ holes drilled every 1" or 2" for adjustment for different size projects.

They will sandwich a piece of 1" ALUM flat stock w/ a 1/4" 20 counter sunk headed bolt w/ a wing nut in a few places depending on how large the pieces of plastic is.

I don't show it in the drawing but the element side will be a all metal or lined w/ metal box; I'll make this after this first part.

THERE'S TWO PHOTOS so I hope you can see and understand where I'm going w/ this; Any intelligent thought or ideas, in addition to this drawing will be appreciated.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright I started the day by adding RESIN to the glass on the bottom of the boat/ plane; I didn't show this this time I had to work way to fast w/ this quick set resin.

I mix and spread it on w/ a brush then use an old plastic credit card to scrape off the access resin; I went up the sides about where the water line will be and on the aft section all the way back to the tail.

Then I mixed another batch of resin and laid up the canopy using 3/4 oz cloth for the first and 2 oz for the second layer and that's it, this will be very thin.

Now while that cures I'll go down to the shop and start building the Vac-U-Forming box; I've come up w/ a few additions for this and will show while building the box.

Check it,

Bruce

splinterz25

I'll most likely post this on the builders work shop thread also after I have it fully built and up and running so I can show a video; I still need to order my plastic it comes from the west coast, I'll be ordering a few 4'x8' x 0.030 sheets soon.

Well I had to go get some more supplies this morning I'll show photos of what I'm using for those of you who would like to build one this way.

There's MANY ways to build these this is what I've come up with; I'm trying to make one set up to form using maybe three sizes of plastic sheet the largest being 18"x 22" and down this will help save plastic when doing small parts.

I've made my box using 1/2" ply this is my choice I don't like MDF it's heavy and harder to work with.

It's glued and nailed w/ a brad gun to hold parts until the glue dries.

I'll still be building the heat box next the heating element is on it's way from Seattle I'm using Galvanized sheet steal in side; but if you trying to cut coast heavy duty ALUM foil would probably work just fine, I want something that's going to last years.

I'm going to just post photos and let you guys & gals ask any questions you may have; I try to let the photos tell it all but you still may have questions.
IF YOU WANT TO SEE CAPTIONS W/ THE PHOTOS LOOK HERE
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...846463&page=37


Check it,

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay guys I started the day by getting some longer bolts; I changed them to 1 1/2" 1/4" - 20 flat head, the reason for this was to raise up the wing nuts above the 1" L stock w/ some brass tube I cut into 1" sections to make stand offs.

Then I bent the inside L stock to shape making my marks 1/4" less than before so it would fit inside w/ a gap for the nuts from the hing bolts.

Then w/ 1/8" shims on the long sides I clamped them in place and marked where I wanted my wing nut standoffs to be positioned and drilled them on the drill press.

Then I put them back into the frame and used a dead center drill to get there exact position for the main frame, then I unscrewed the hinges and took the frame to the drill press and finished drilling the 1/4" holes.

After that I put the center frame back in place w/ shims into the main frame and flipped it over and drilled the counter sunk holes for the heads of the bolts.

There's still more yet to do, I had to stop and eat and cut more brass tubing to 1" pieces while sitting down for a rest.

I've also ordered four sheets 4'x 8' x 0.030 of PETG or Vivak clear plastic it should be here next week.

I also removed mold from the fiberglass canopy it came right out of the mold the plaster could be used again.

Check the progress, and feel free to ask questions.
If you want captions w/ the photos check waterplanes on RCG.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay today I continue to make the frame work so far I've made it so you can pull two sizes one is the full size 17"x 21" the second is 17" x 12" the box can be made two sizes smaller yet by making two more cross L brackets. ( I laid a piece of scrap across in one photo to show this)

I'll make those as needed and I'll need to pick up a small piece of 1/8" x 1" ALUM stock for the bottom of those cross pieces to make them come out flush against the pegboard.

So after getting that finished I ran some more test to see if there was enough suction coming from my VAC. (make sure you clean or replace the filter)
I'm using a Craftsman shop vac. and it seem to be quite adequate w/ pull; but to be sure I taped a piece of paper over the unused area and ran tape around the seam of the pegboard.

Then turned on the vac. and used a sheet of printer paper to how it would pull it down.

The real test will be when I get the plastic gets here I hope as soon as the heating element.

I then started to prep. the steal sheet for the heat box by buffing it to a high luster w/ my car buffer and car wax ; this will reflect the heat even better when I build the box.

Check it,

splinterz25

Alright guys and gals this is what I've done this morning,
first I've decided to not use hinges for the frame and I'll be making another handle
for the other side and skinning them w/ 3/4 ceder to keep the fingers from burning.

The reason for taking the hinges off is this when forming tall pieces 4" or 5" the hot plastic needs to come straight down on to the plug to get a good pull.

If I were to have a bunch of small pieces I would then screw them back in.

The heater element I bought is really nice w/ the dial heat control;I'm not going to try and explain everything just have a look and if you have questions just ask.

Check it out,

Bruce

splinterz25

Well while waiting on the plastic and since were having a party/cook out this weekend; I took some time and cleaned the shop this weekend.

Then this morning I moved all the bits & pieces of the BV-138 build up stairs to the build room and the PBY build down stairs to get it ready for silk, dope & primer.

I over did it though this weekend and pulled something in my back so the rest of the day I'll work in my chair working on cutting out the fiberglass canopy's windows.

Check it out I haven't had this much room in the shop since I first made it into a shop LOL.

splinterz25

WELL OKAY I went ahead and finished carving out the windows.
The plastic came today but I think I'll get to setting up for some pulls tomorrow.
I'm just going to rest my back for the rest of the evening.

Check out the progress, this is before primer it's drying now.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay quick post then down stairs to cut the plastic and set up to make some test pulls w/ my NEW Vac-U-Box setup.

I shot primer then spot putty then primer after sanding in between each of course and it's ready to sand again; I'll do that later to day.

Here's where that canopy is now, check it out.

splinterz25

I've been busy preparing for our cookout/ party these last few days and I be back on the build and working on plugs come Monday. []


Bruce

splinterz25

Okay I didn't get much done today after painting the P-38M's pluge and gluing the balsa up for the PBY's plug, I just waited until the glue setup enough, then wiped out the rough teardrop shaped turret plug in about 2 hrs this evening.

After making the beveled base I'll be ready for Deft sanding sealer & Epoxy paint.

Check it out,

Bruce