splinterz25

Well I finished up the strut fairings on one side and started the second side.

I've been looking a dummy engines also; Willams Bro's has 12th scale dummies $32 ea. but you'll see my carb will hit, most likely no matter what I do any ideas here?

Willams Bro's is only 7 cyl. not 14 like the scale

I have a 5" cowling and if anybody knows of a 7 or 14 cyl dummy please let me know.

12th scale works but my plane is weird it's 11th scale, because of making the WS 8'.

Bruce

splinterz25

Well just as I was posting the ***** about the USPS.... The wheel collars showed up
so I went ahead and finished the main beaching gear; the paint is not just red from the bottle, the camera makes it look that way.
These will never see fuel so there model paint, the red is mixed w/ brown to dull it down the brass was primed w/ a grey first so when it gets scratched it will look scale.

I'll be adding weathering to these so they match this weather tattered and torn PBY catalina.

The second side struts is coming along and should be finished tomorrow; then it's on to the aft beaching gear.

I've started to move the plane so I can work on the other side and took some time to pick up my building room some; running out of room in there.

Check them out,

pilotbum

Are you going to detail the plane win all the raised "dome" rivets when you're done?

Randy

splinterz25

Randy not sure what you mean could you explain a bit more please?

Bruce

splinterz25

WELL I HAVE ALL WEEKEND TO BUILD AIRPLANES NO FUNNY LIL HONEY.

I STARTED W/ GETTING THE SECOND SIDE FAIRINGS EPOXY MIX APPLIED AFTER DRILLING AND SETTING THE BRASS TUBE/ PLATES.

I'LL WHIP OUT THE SECOND LANDING LIGHT NEXT; THEN START ON THE AFT BEACHING GEAR.

OH I FORGOT LOOKING AT THE SPACE IN THE COWLING IF I WERE TO ADD
A SPACER ON THE PROP SHAFT I'LL GAIN A 1/4" IN THERE; NEED TO FIND A SPACER W/ KNURLINGS.
Bruce

pilotbum

Like these...



And panel lines... And raised panel lines (I'd really like to see how to do raised panel lines...)
Randy

splinterz25

Oh no problem I showed some of that back a ways when I did the nose.

I use chart tape and spray high build primer over the tape then once dry pull the tape up apply rivets I get those from
Chad Veich he on all the sites.

Go back a few and look at the nose turret section/ I'll be remaking the turret I don't like it.

pilotbum

So the raised rivets are a product you glue on? I've read some folks use dabs of glue as well.

splinterz25

YES THERE A PRODUCT sold by Chad Veich,
NO THE RIVETS come on a sheet w/ thousands of them on a sheet; in lines you transfer them to clear tape then you press them down w/ a stick they have a self stick backing and adhere to the plane where ever you put them.
Best to have the surface primed ready for paint/ because after applying them you paint the whole plane.

The RIVETS are made out of Silver Mylar film w/ a sticky backing/ he also makes hatches and many sizes of rivets and screw heads this same way.

Bruce

splinterz25

Today I started making the aft beaching gear and put her on her on her front feet;
I think I have got those forward beaching gears scale, the tires even show a load on them.

I'm having a hard time judging the aft gear there's not very many close up photos of the aft gear; getting the three tubes / struts the correct size may a task?

check her out I can now start to see the light at the end of the tunnel a lil bit.

Bruce

splinterz25

Alright guys and gals thought I would pop back on and show the ROUGHaft beaching gear idea; the wishbone shaped piece tips slid into two small tubes w/ sq.
plates soldered and drilled to accept 4-40 steal rod; this is my answer to those hooks, not
practical for modeling.


There however will be a cross member soldered on top of the main strut holding both
pieces of the wishbone and another tube soldered across as well.


The tow hook is up inside about 1/2" and will be in set along w/ those two other plates;
the tow hook plate will have two counter sunk screws on each side and will also be epoxied in
along w/ the other two plates.


The rod going back to the tow hook will be drilled through and a pin w/ a chain will go there.


I also have the jack handle ready to solder on w/ a swivel; all these parts can be seen in the
drawing.

splinterz25

OKAY here's what I did today I'll let the photos do the talking if you have questions just ask.

splinterz25

HERE'S WHAT I'M DOING I COLOR CODE THE PLUG ENDS.
THE WING BOLT WILL PULL THE CONNECTORS TOGETHER.
THAT PART IS EASY: REMEMBERING WHAT THE :censored::censored::censored:
I DID A YEAR AGO IS THE PROBLEM. LOL


Bruce

splinterz25

Yes wiring this is going to be a pain in my FOR SURE

This is when I need a tecno geek to come over and run this stuff

no takers though

Bruce

splinterz25

Well I'M BACK ON HER AGAIN THIS MORNING TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT.

Bruce

splinterz25

There's been some questions on the BATTERY SYSTEM

LET ME SEE IF I CAN EXPLAIN THIS:
My system for my jack screws was created from using the motors from two
screw guns w/ there clutches & gears for about $12 each; they came w/ there own batteries and charge ports.
SO what I need to do is fit both of these batteries and charge ports w/ the micro switches and the micro servo and RX in the top center of the wing.

These two batteries only power the jack screw motors one for each side.

Here are a few shots to try and help you understand what I'm doing there's still a great deal of work to do yet though.

splinterz25

OKAY MARTIN asked this question on another site.
Bruce, from the looks of the cam on the servo it seems you are going to lower the tip floats one at a time.
Or are you going to change the cam to close both switches at the same time?


I said:


OKAY this is a good question that everyone needs to see.

NOW let me try and explain this;

Each side has a motor connected to a jackscrew at the start and stop point there's a micro switch that stops each motor when the travel is complete.

When you want to raise or lower the tip floats the micro servo w/ the cam lobes Martin is talking about will be activated w/ CH 5; this is for landing gear on most TX.

WHEN It's on ONE of those micro switches BOTH SETS of floats will move to the landing position; when you throw the CH 5 switch again to the other micro switch it makes the tip floats go up.

Both sides are wired to this servo w/ micro switches in the center hatch; this is where the RX and the lighting hub will also be.

I hope this makes since to everyone

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay did a lil bit today...Made the hatch and fit the servo & micro switch board farther down into the planes neck; the hatch is slightly bent w/ two pieces glued together 1/32" ply outside and 1/16" balsa inside.

The hatch will be held in place w/ 8 rare earth magnets 2 in each corner; these are very strong magnets I think that should be enough, I'll test it in the morning the
E-6000 is still drying.

splinterz25

I think I'll try this product on the inside of the hatch after sealing the balsa first w/ BalsaRite and also over the batteries; it can go on very thin like paint but it is rubber.

splinterz25

Okay I haven't been able to do much the past few days down w/ a really bad cold.
Not even trying to think about wiring; but I did order and receive my dummy engines.

These are Willams Bro's 1/12 scale WASP DUMMY ENGINE MODEL KITS; there very nice BUT there 9 Cyl. the PBY had 14 cyl engines.

SO MY QUESTION TO YOU GUYS IS : Should I take the time to modify these models so they look more correct or just build them as they are?

The top cyl. will most likely have to be totally removed because of the carb on the OS 46 engine.

I know how to make these look like the twin Wasp: I'll just have to make 2 new rear sections of the crank case and since I'm only going to be able to use the front half of the model I'll use the back sides for the extra cyl's.

I know a few of you will say why didn't I just 3-D print them but there are other ways of doing things.

Bruce

splinterz25

I made a two pulls today, I was toying around w/ making the ring that the cyl. heads
mount into so I could make it 14 cyl. but it's just not worth the extra effort.

So here's the start: I have to paint the cyl. heads before gluing anything, and also the crank case but I have to assemble the crankcases first; I'm only using half of ea. cyl. the photo shows the back row in place roughly w/ NO glue the top / or front row will fit in between.

I think I'll be okay w/ air flow and if not these DUMMIES will be removable and may only be used for display; if need be.

splinterz25

Well I've made a start on the dummy engines; I'll most likely have to cut / alter the top three cyl's. for the OS .46 carb so it will be
able to get good air intake.


This is a perfect thing for me to work on right now not much thinking


still getting over this cold; but having fun.

splinterz25

Here's what I've been up to;I'll have to alter this to fit but went ahead and built it completely and there's still a few details yet to add, but you should see where I'm going w/ this.Now to add the push rods and wiring to the second dummy.

splinterz25

Alright guys I've been getting a few questions on these dummies
How thick the plastic is, how thick the whole dummy is, and how I'll fix the cowling to fit these.

There are a few photos of the cowlings being fixed; this is the first step, I mixed epoxy w/ microballoons and used a brush to apply a small amount around the inside of the cowling.
First I rough it up w/ sandpaper then wipe it clean w/ alcohol then making sure to get some on the inside of the cowling wipe a thin bead around the whole inside; this is done w/ the cowling face down on a sheet of plastic, this should keep it nice and flat while curing.

The dummies wall thickness is 1/16" or less; the entire dummy's thickness is about
1 1/8" at the crank case center.

The other thing I did but didn't tell you about was the two hoses at the top of the engine; for these I use the left over wire harness parts that came w/ the kit.
These didn't have the correct bend in them so I lightly heat them w/ a small candle and bend them to the correct curve.

Here's a few more shots to help you understand, and if you still have questions please ask I don't mind explaining.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay here's what I've come up with for the cowlings.
I also got a home depot gift card for Christmas and have been wanting a smaller drill
that can get into hard to reach places and the chuck will tighten up small enough for the tiny drill bits this is what I bought. (It will straighten out as well)
And my daughter bought me a set of pro. Chisels; I'm still waiting on my new soldering station to get here.