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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

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Old 07-30-2019, 09:56 PM
  #2676  
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The flight was good but short. After a couple of minutes I knew something was wrong and decided to land the plane. The engine quit just as the plane was on final, but it glided down to a beautiful landing. Turns out the engine quit because it ran out of gas. It has two gas tanks, a 12 and 14 oz but I didn't plumb them correctly and it was running only on the 12 oz tank. I have fixed that now. She will fly again.
Unfortunately I didn't keep any pictures of the plane once it was airborne as it was only a dot in the sky. I guess the photographer didn't realize my phone camera could zoom in? LOL.




I have a short 14 second video of the takeoff.

Last edited by heirmeistr; 07-30-2019 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:33 AM
  #2677  
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Are you using the Saito? the reason i am asking is that i only have a 16 oz tank. Is that enough for 5 minutes?

Thanks
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Old 07-31-2019, 09:00 AM
  #2678  
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I have had only 1 flight with the Saito (running rich) but based on that one flight my guess would be no. My guess is you would get 4 minutes max!
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:06 PM
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I’m not sure why you guys are getting such short flights. I’ve run the FG84, Ray Mod, with a 24oz tank and can fly 8-10min on 12oz to 15oz. Prop is a Xoar 23x12 and RPM was upper 6K to lower 7K in flight from telemetry.

The H9 Corsair is heavier than the TF model so I will concede that point.
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:48 PM
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Hi Chris

That is what I was told so the 16oz tank was fitting and I thought it should be good for 5 minutes flight. I will check more with others that are running one.

behzad
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:59 PM
  #2681  
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I would not base your flight time on my first and only flight. As I mentioned, I had the tanks plumbed incorrectly and I was running rich. I will be able to provide better data once I get more flights in.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:19 PM
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Today I had two successful flights (with the fuel tanks now correctly plumbed). The first flight was for 5 minutes and I'm guessing I used about 9 ounces. This is with the engine running rich as I am still breaking it it. The second flight was for 7 minutes but I forgot to figure out the gas consumed. Here is a short video of a flyby.
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:09 PM
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I started building this kit that I have had for a long time. This is my first warbird but I just did not like the plastic gear doors so I am making a change. I am starting by gluing the stock parts in and flattening the adjoining surfaces as best I can
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:15 PM
  #2684  
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Wow those pictures are big.

The fit of these plastic doors was crap so I sanded things flat, added clay to fill the seams a bit and then hot glued on fences before glassing. I hope this picture will be smaller.

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Old 08-27-2019, 02:22 PM
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I hit it with 3 coats PVA and then put down the cloth. 2 layers 2 ounce and maybe 8 layers of 6 ounce. Have to make it fairly rigid


I use West system, fast hardener I think 206?
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:28 PM
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Mr Matt, what are you using for retracts?
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:00 PM
  #2687  
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Originally Posted by Denfly31 View Post
Mr Matt, what are you using for retracts?
The stock robarts, air. I want to change that little yoke that breaks but I cant get Sierra to write me back. I might end up making new yoke myself.
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:58 PM
  #2688  
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So far so good I will wax it up and pull a sample door
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Old 08-29-2019, 12:21 PM
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10 years service in my TF Corsair with Robart air, no problems.
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
10 years service in my TF Corsair with Robart air, no problems.
Good to know. Any quirks on this gear to know about? Did you use a shoulder bolt for the axle?
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Old 08-30-2019, 06:29 PM
  #2691  
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Comparing old verses new yes there are things to look out for.
The new gear I dealt with on the Hellcat was bound up at the scissor linkage pretty bad. I went through everything including the cylinder. I tweaked the linkages to free them up meaning I pinched the inner one tighter and checked the fit. The cylinders didn’t have very much lube so I cleaned out what was there and added 3000wt silicone oil used in RC buggy differentials. They screw apart like a cap on a cylinder, no tool required.
After all that the gear cycles with very little pressure, 10psi down and 25psi up. So far has worked perfectly. I added air restrictors to both up/down air lines, works great. I have the same on the Corsair.

For the axle you can use the stock axle with the cap. Put that on the wheel face side and pass it through the gear leg with a spacer. Then cut it to length on the back of the leg and grind a flat for the set screw.

The old gear required none of the above and has worked flawlessly for 10 years. I just add a few drops of silicone oil in the air lines from time to time, that’s it!
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Old 08-30-2019, 06:34 PM
  #2692  
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BTW, I mentioned the Robart Hellcat gear meant for the new Top Flite Model because it’s the same base model gear just set to 100 degrees. The new production quality is not as good as before. The tolerance and burrs on the edge of the stamped parts are worse than before.
However, we would have to compare new production Corsair gear to old production gear to be fair.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:50 PM
  #2693  
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my version must be different, I have a threaded boss for the axle, it has to be a bolt I guess, with no way to lock it in.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:54 PM
  #2694  
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First parts look usable (but too thick). I used 1 layer of 2 ounce cloth next to the mold itself and 3 more layers of 6 ounce, on the 45 bias. I think I can make it work. Oh the black ring around the edge is just the sharpie mark for cutting the cloth.
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_matt View Post
my version must be different, I have a threaded boss for the axle, it has to be a bolt I guess, with no way to lock it in.
Ok I have that version too. You need to find a shoulder bolt with a shoulder length similar too or slightly longer than the width of the your wheel hub. Then you just screw it into the leg with thread lock and its done. The shoulder is your axle. You will need a spacer between the wheel and leg. The head of the bolt can be a hex cap or a pan head slot screw. In order to make mine look less like a giant screw I ground it to look like a grease cap with a shallow slot for a screw driver. See a P-51 wheel hub up close for a visual.
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:19 AM
  #2696  
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Thanks Chris, I am noodling on a way to hold that axle. The doors are fitting ok so far
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Old 09-25-2019, 01:37 PM
  #2697  
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I threw on some primer to see the fit. So far so good
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Old 09-25-2019, 02:01 PM
  #2698  
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Looks great so far!
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Old 09-26-2019, 02:40 PM
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Thanks, do you (or anyone else) have clever ideas on how to do the inside of the main door detail? this adds a lot to the character IMHO
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Old 09-26-2019, 03:42 PM
  #2700  
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There are ways to do it. In order to keep it light you can cut foam and shape it to look like the offset inner panel. You can use balsa and do the same. Combination of balsa and body filler like Evercoat would be my choice. You can seal the wood with thin CA and work it like a hard foam. If you use foam you have to worry about CA or body filler melting it. With balsa you can shape, seal it, hit it with a building primer and paint it. Look at Upol urethane automotive primer, it’s thick, dries fast and is compatible with most paints.
You could make master models and mold them in silicone then cast them in urethane, light weight and durable, cast in color.
You could make masters and vacuum form with styrene with a shop vac set up...

Just depends on on your preference really
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