Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
10-02-2013, 03:56 PM
#426
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Nick, The 777 is a good bit more weight than the G-62. I looked thru my notes and found the weights added to the cowls for the various set ups during development and flight testing. This should give you a good starting point. Please still make sure to check your CG as each install may be a little bit different.
- Cowl Weights
- G62 was 500grams of lead shot + Epoxy (about 2oz I think) in cowl ring. Using 2x 2700 nimh packs. CG was @ 135mm back from LE of wing balanced upright. Throttle servo in motor box.
- Saito FG-57 was 450 grams of lead shot (including glue) in cowl and one 7oz lead shot box on the firewall. Thro servo was in back rail and 1x 2000 lipo and 2x 4000 lipo for rx and ign. CG was @ 138mm back from LE of wing balanced upright. This CG was a little out of range.
- 777 (no optional doors) was no weight added. Using 2x 4000 lipo for RX. Onboard glow was installed. CG was @ 130mm back from LE of wing balanced upright.
- 777 w/gear doors (main and tail) was 6oz weight in cowl ring added. Using 2x 4000 lipo for RX. 1x 4500 4 cell for Onboard glow. Photo sample 30.5 lbs CG was @ mid range 130mm back from LE of wing balanced upright.
10-04-2013, 01:15 AM
#427
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Hi David.
Great,thanks again for your reply and info for the 7-77..........perfect.
Did you have any particular reason for doing the c of g "upright"...?
Regards...........Nick (UK).
Great,thanks again for your reply and info for the 7-77..........perfect.
Did you have any particular reason for doing the c of g "upright"...?
Regards...........Nick (UK).
10-05-2013, 03:55 AM
#428
Hi all
ive managed to pickup the last corsair in adelaide.im not sure how many model flight got but im glad i got one.i havnt unpacked it all but from what ive seen its looks great.
Cheers raaf
ive managed to pickup the last corsair in adelaide.im not sure how many model flight got but im glad i got one.i havnt unpacked it all but from what ive seen its looks great.
Cheers raaf
10-05-2013, 10:31 AM
#430
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yes. The servo is shielded. In the meantimeI have finished the work under the cowl.
Due to the actuators still not being available I have gone with a servo solution. Heres a pic. Works well. Delayed the servo on the TX so it takes about as long as the mains to come out.
Recruits have also arrived. He is very anxious for me to get that cockpit in place. He needs to shed some weight first though...
Rev
10-05-2013, 02:39 PM
#431
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Hi Rev.
Looking good,my build is a little slow.......decided to give the fuzz a good look over and do quite a bit more of "aliphatic" glueing on all the "stringers" and formers that I can get to plus all the "firewall" has been strengthened with extra hardwood and epoxy fillets..........just in case and also to try and prolong the fuzz life..........although the 7-77 I must say runs very smooth,the fuel in the tank ( on the test stand) is pretty "still" when running !!!
It's a real pain that the actators are not available here as yet,will wait as no need for it at the moment,but I will use a LADO E-Door actator "Y" leaded to the U/C output if it does not arrive in time. The LADO actuator is a plug and play and can be programed with a delay if required.........it should have enough lateral movement.
I ran the 7-77 on a fuel mix ( as per the "book" ) with 5% Nitro,still using the 22" x 12 3BL Biela.........got nearly 150 more RPM out of it,but still have to do some more full throttle runs and final "ground" tuning.
Think I will be tempted to fly with this 3BL,but will do a "pull-test" with a gauge when she is all finished,just to see what Kg she is pulling on the ground.
Are you going to strengthen the cockpit floor,inorder to support your pilot..........or will he be going on a diet as you suggest !!! ????
I see that your tail wheel retract servo is 4.8Volts.......are you running a 4.8volt or 6 volt Rx system....?? ( didn't think that the JR servos at 4.8volts did not like anything more than that ).
Keep the build photos coming........I have not posted any as yet as not too much to see at the moment !!!
Regards................Nick (UK).
Looking good,my build is a little slow.......decided to give the fuzz a good look over and do quite a bit more of "aliphatic" glueing on all the "stringers" and formers that I can get to plus all the "firewall" has been strengthened with extra hardwood and epoxy fillets..........just in case and also to try and prolong the fuzz life..........although the 7-77 I must say runs very smooth,the fuel in the tank ( on the test stand) is pretty "still" when running !!!
It's a real pain that the actators are not available here as yet,will wait as no need for it at the moment,but I will use a LADO E-Door actator "Y" leaded to the U/C output if it does not arrive in time. The LADO actuator is a plug and play and can be programed with a delay if required.........it should have enough lateral movement.
I ran the 7-77 on a fuel mix ( as per the "book" ) with 5% Nitro,still using the 22" x 12 3BL Biela.........got nearly 150 more RPM out of it,but still have to do some more full throttle runs and final "ground" tuning.
Think I will be tempted to fly with this 3BL,but will do a "pull-test" with a gauge when she is all finished,just to see what Kg she is pulling on the ground.
Are you going to strengthen the cockpit floor,inorder to support your pilot..........or will he be going on a diet as you suggest !!! ????
I see that your tail wheel retract servo is 4.8Volts.......are you running a 4.8volt or 6 volt Rx system....?? ( didn't think that the JR servos at 4.8volts did not like anything more than that ).
Keep the build photos coming........I have not posted any as yet as not too much to see at the moment !!!
Regards................Nick (UK).
10-05-2013, 09:39 PM
#432
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Hi Nick,
woah, you had me going there for a sec. I have been using the 5077's in small to medium Planes for ages, all running at 6V. I checked the Distrubuters Homepage again. The Graupner 5077 are rated at 6V. My whole Setup is running off a 2S 2.200mAh LiPo that is reduced by a JETI 10A UBEC to 6V.
The cockit floor is strengthened with some wood on the underside but the chunky 230g Pilot will lose a bit more than half of his weight before he is allowed to fly. The whole body (except head and hands) will be substituted with balsa, cotton wool and a wireframe. Some of the gear will be changed to Dragon stuff which is also considerably lighter.
I want to get the corsair in the air before the first snow so there is a bit of pressure
Rev
woah, you had me going there for a sec. I have been using the 5077's in small to medium Planes for ages, all running at 6V. I checked the Distrubuters Homepage again. The Graupner 5077 are rated at 6V. My whole Setup is running off a 2S 2.200mAh LiPo that is reduced by a JETI 10A UBEC to 6V.
The cockit floor is strengthened with some wood on the underside but the chunky 230g Pilot will lose a bit more than half of his weight before he is allowed to fly. The whole body (except head and hands) will be substituted with balsa, cotton wool and a wireframe. Some of the gear will be changed to Dragon stuff which is also considerably lighter.
I want to get the corsair in the air before the first snow so there is a bit of pressure
Rev
10-09-2013, 04:04 AM
#437
Hello All,
I just wanted to update you guys on a few things about the Corsair since they have been out in the consumers hands.
3. Canopy Sliders - The sliders were supposed to have a plastic disc glued to the back of them to help distribute the load. The vendor left these out of the shipment (Sorry...) I am working with the vendor to get replacements for these. They are on a holiday right now so this may take a few weeks to sort out. This is a very simple fix and if you have already glued yours sliders on or just don't want to wait the part can be made from hard wood or plastic that is about 2mm thick. It is a round disc that is 1" in diameter and has a box cut out of the center for the slider to fit into.
4. Tail Wheel Air Cylinders - The cylinder was built to the wrong spec. The threaded hole in the end of the cylinder should have been 4-40 to fit the tail wheel push rod. It was threaded as 2-56. We are working with Robart to find the quickest and best way to correct any one who has the incorrect threaded cylinder.
Sorry for the inconveniences. I hope that all of you can enjoy the Corsair as much as I do and if you have any questions please ask. I will update on the status of the parts as I get more information on them.
Thanks
I just wanted to update you guys on a few things about the Corsair since they have been out in the consumers hands.
3. Canopy Sliders - The sliders were supposed to have a plastic disc glued to the back of them to help distribute the load. The vendor left these out of the shipment (Sorry...) I am working with the vendor to get replacements for these. They are on a holiday right now so this may take a few weeks to sort out. This is a very simple fix and if you have already glued yours sliders on or just don't want to wait the part can be made from hard wood or plastic that is about 2mm thick. It is a round disc that is 1" in diameter and has a box cut out of the center for the slider to fit into.
4. Tail Wheel Air Cylinders - The cylinder was built to the wrong spec. The threaded hole in the end of the cylinder should have been 4-40 to fit the tail wheel push rod. It was threaded as 2-56. We are working with Robart to find the quickest and best way to correct any one who has the incorrect threaded cylinder.
Sorry for the inconveniences. I hope that all of you can enjoy the Corsair as much as I do and if you have any questions please ask. I will update on the status of the parts as I get more information on them.
Thanks
Thank you,
Hank
10-10-2013, 02:39 AM
#439
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Canopy Disc
Hi.
These are very easy to make : 2mm / 1.5mm Platicard and a bit of a file....................
Anybody have the Robart Electric tail wheel actuators as yet or the servoless pylon release...?
Regards............Nick. UK
These are very easy to make : 2mm / 1.5mm Platicard and a bit of a file....................
Anybody have the Robart Electric tail wheel actuators as yet or the servoless pylon release...?
Regards............Nick. UK
10-10-2013, 07:19 AM
#443
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Scott,
Are you talking about the electric tail wheel actuator? I have one on backorder also. Just called Horizon again. They still say late October before they get ANY in ??
Thanks,
Are you talking about the electric tail wheel actuator? I have one on backorder also. Just called Horizon again. They still say late October before they get ANY in ??
Thanks,
10-10-2013, 08:30 AM
#444
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Doh! I was but I just double-checked. The electric tail wheel is still on backorder. It was my 777 collector ring that shipped on Tuesday. So I'll have everything but the actuator. It doesn't matter a whole lot, I'm trying to get a BUSA Cub off my bench before I start this one. I'm just having trouble finding modeling time with a new job...
10-16-2013, 05:14 AM
#445
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Robart 5" Wheels
Hi All.
Hope that all your builds are going well..........I see that a few problems are happening with regard to the wheels hitting the top wing surface :
What I have done is to "grind- off" / "cut-off" most of the "hex" on the bolt head as this protrudes too far above the wheel/tyre,so there for the risk of causing damage to the wing is very much reduced.I have found out on my installation that the units will fit into the "wells" without having to use the plastic shims supplied...........but I will use these as a caution anyway.
It also appears that Robart in their construction of these units and after welding do not put a "tap" back through the welded threaded tube that this bolt screws into...............hence the threads are heat distorted.If you remove the allen key bit of the bolt,you can still screw the wheel assy into the U/C buy using the two flat nuts which lock against each other to give the rotational clearance ( I use two nylon washers instead of the steel washers either side of the wheel ).
If your threaded part of the U/C is thread distorted,either use a tap to re-size or another hardened bolt of the same thread to help..............
Regards................Nick (UK).
It wouls appear that the only item left to come from HH is the electric actuator as mentioned a thread or so back...............got my pylon re-lease units,look ok.
Hope that all your builds are going well..........I see that a few problems are happening with regard to the wheels hitting the top wing surface :
What I have done is to "grind- off" / "cut-off" most of the "hex" on the bolt head as this protrudes too far above the wheel/tyre,so there for the risk of causing damage to the wing is very much reduced.I have found out on my installation that the units will fit into the "wells" without having to use the plastic shims supplied...........but I will use these as a caution anyway.
It also appears that Robart in their construction of these units and after welding do not put a "tap" back through the welded threaded tube that this bolt screws into...............hence the threads are heat distorted.If you remove the allen key bit of the bolt,you can still screw the wheel assy into the U/C buy using the two flat nuts which lock against each other to give the rotational clearance ( I use two nylon washers instead of the steel washers either side of the wheel ).
If your threaded part of the U/C is thread distorted,either use a tap to re-size or another hardened bolt of the same thread to help..............
Regards................Nick (UK).
It wouls appear that the only item left to come from HH is the electric actuator as mentioned a thread or so back...............got my pylon re-lease units,look ok.
Last edited by njmheli; 10-16-2013 at 08:50 AM.
10-16-2013, 12:16 PM
#449
Thanks Chad!
I've used 5-1/2" diameter wheels on my Byron's Corsair but will they work with the H9 Corsair?
QUOTE=Chad Veich;11640089]http://www.davincimachining.com/inde...mart&Itemid=84[/QUOTE]
I've used 5-1/2" diameter wheels on my Byron's Corsair but will they work with the H9 Corsair?
QUOTE=Chad Veich;11640089]http://www.davincimachining.com/inde...mart&Itemid=84[/QUOTE]